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CANADIAN ALPINE JOURNAL

PfBXJHHKD BY

ALPIXE CLFB OF CANADA

1909

Priasied by tiie Hesald-W^atiem Co.. T-imnwH^, Calgary, Afierta.

ir. D. It lUox. Photo.

MT. ASSINIBOINE FROM THE NORTH.
Photographed at Altitude of 7500 Feet

'^ THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA

Officers for i 908-1 910.

Patron
Sir Sandford Fleming, K.C.M.G., Ottawa, Ont.

President
Arthur O. Wheeler, F.R.G.S., Calgary, Alta.

Vice-Presidents

John D. Patterson, Woodstock, Ont.

M. P. Bridgland, Calgary, Alta.

Hon. Secretary
Mrs. H. J. Parker, 160 Furby St., Winnipeg, Man.

Executive Secretary
S. H. Mitchell, Box 624, Calgary, Alta.

Hon. Treasurer
C. W. Rowley, Drawer 13 14, Calgary, Alta.

Librarian
Miss Jean Parker, Winnipeg, Man.

Advisers

D. H. LxVird, Winnipeg, Man.

Stanley L. Jones, Calgary, Alta.

Frank Yeigh, Toronto, Ont.

Applicants for membership must be proposed by three Active
merribers.

Application for Active membership must be accompanied by a
statt^ment of qualification, duly attested.

Graduating members must qualify within two years of date of
election.

All subscriptions are payable on 1st January in each year.

CANADIAN ALPINE JOURNAL

The Publishing Committee is not responsible for statcm<
made by contributors to the Canadian Alpine Journal.

y^.2 CONTENTS -VOLUME II, No. 1

MOUNTAINEERING SECTION

Mount Robson. I'.y Rev. G. B. Kinney

An Early Attempt to Climb Mt, Assiniboine, By Walter D.
Wilco.x. F.R.G.S

The Second Ascent of Mount Tapper. By Jean Parker .

Ascent of Mt. Tupper. By Wolfgang Koehler ....

Beyond the Asulkan. By Professor W. D. Holway .

How to Reach Mt. Sir Sandford. By P. A. Carson . . .

Over the Cornice of Asulkan Snow Dome. By C. H.
Mitchell

SCIENTIFIC SECTION.

Modern Glaciers. By William S. Vaux, Jr

Structures in the Vicinity of Rogers Pass. By E. M.

Burwash

T r

Mountain Climbing for Women. By Mary E. Crawford,
M.D

Observations of Glaciers. By Professor Harry Fielding
Reid

Glacier Observations, 1907-1908. ,

Motion of the Yoho Glacier. By Arthur O. Wheeler,^

F.R.G.S ^"i

Botanical Notes.
Our Alpine Flora. By B. R. Atkins

MISCELLANEOUS SECTION.

A Note on Tyndall's Alpine Books. By E. P.
Rogers Pass Camp. By S. H. Mitchell . . •

CO'!<iTE'NrS— Continued

In Memoriam.

William S. Vaux, Jr. Biographical Sketch by George

Vaux, Jr 124

Lookin' Back. Poem by Moira O'Neill (From " Songs of

the Glens of Antrim ") 128

Alpine Club Notes.
(Editorial)

An Act of Heroism 129

An Attempt on Mt. Sir Sandford 132

New Route Up Mt. Sir Donald 134

Independent Mountaineering 136

Mountaineering Club of Revelstoke 139

Climbs of Importance Made in 1908 ........ 140

Reviews.

The Rockies of Canada. Walter Dwight Wilcox. (Revised

Edition, Putnam's). By E. P 142

OFFICIAL SECTION.

Report of Hon. Secretary 145

Report of Librarian 149

Report of 1908 Camp 152

Report of Chief Mountaineer 154

Expeditions 158

The Accident on Mt. Avalanche 159

Statement of Treasurer 163

Copies of the Canadian Alpine Journal, Volume I., Nos. 1
and 2, and of Volume XL, No. 1, can be had on application to
the following officers of tlie Executive:

A. O. Wheeler, President, Box 624, Calgary, Alberta.

Mrs. H. J. Parker, Hon. Secretary, 160 Furby street, Winni-
peg, Manitoba.

2- H. Mitchell, Executive Secretary, Box 624, Calgary,

PRICE ONE DOLLAR, POST PAID.

All applications for copies must be accompanied by money
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CANADIAN ALPINE JOURNAL

PUBLISHED BY

Vol II THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA No. 1

MOUNTAINEERING SECTION.

♦ » »

MOUNT ROBSON.

By the Rev. G. B. Kinney.

Near the end of July. 1907, our pack train of ten
horses left A'lorley, Alberta, for Laggan, which was our
real starting point.

The party consisted of Dr. A. P. Coleman, Geologist
of the University of Toronto, his brother, L. O. Coleman,
of Morley, Alberta, myself, and a cook; all active,
original members of the Alpine Club of Canada, except-
ing the latter. Mount Robson, the highest and grandest
of the Canadian Rockies, was our goal.

For over a month we followed the trail of the wild
through the valleys of the Pipestone, Siffleur, Saskat-
chewan, Sunwapta, Athabasca, Miette and Fraser,
crossing the Pipestone, Wilcox and Yellowhead passes.
Reaching the mouth of the Grand Forks of the Fraser,

2 Ctvin<fiii)i Alpi}u- Journal.

wo hail to cli(i|) (Hir way tlirouj^h fallen timber and
forest primeval till we camped near the base of the
mountain. The hardshi|)s of our trip in had delayed us
two weeks longer than we had thou<;ht.

The (lay after reachini^ the mountain we divided
the party and spent one day in exploring to find the
best way to the peak; then, with five days' provisions
on our backs, leaving the cook to look after the horses.
we set out to capture Mount Robson. On the evening
of the second day, wet and cold, we made a tree-line
camp in a snow-storm. Next day it was storming harder
than ever, deep snow lay all around, and, much to our
sorrow, we were compelled to give up the attempt. It
had been storming more or less for the previous week
and our time limit had long expired, so instead of being
able to wait for fine weather, we had to abandon the
chief object of our expedition, and we returned by way
of Edmonton.

The next year we three met by appointment in
Edmonton, where, on the thirty-first day of July, 1908,
we were again in shape for our attack on Mount Robson.
This time John Yates, the famous packer of Lake St.
Annes, had us in charge. By August 28th our light
pack-train of eight horses had made such rapid time that
we were able to camp near the foot of the east side of
the mountain. Two days later, x^ugust 30th, our per-
manent camp was made at the foot of a mighty glacier
we found lying there.

For nineteen days expedition after expedition was
made to capture the peak of Mount Robson ; and for
nineteen days storms and blizzards of snow frustrated
our every attempt. We explored and photographed and
mapped the whole region for miles around. We captured
three virgin peaks. On the east, however, the fallen
snows are so protected that they rest on the mountain
from base to summit, giving birth to the fine Robson
Glacier, six or seven miles in length.

A*(T . li. /!. hill my. Photo.

ROBSON GLACIER

Six miles in length. The watershed between Alberta and Rritish Columbia lies u]) its centre.

Rev. G. R. Kiiiiiew I'liolo.

BERG LAKE AT FOOT OF MT. ROBSON.
Named by Mr. Kinnej-.

Mount Robson 3

For hours we scrambled up this river of ice, amid
its seracs and crevasses, till we came to the real climb
itself. At one time, the heaped-up snows of ages had
packed that east side of the mountain to an enormous
depth, completely burying those awesome walls of rock,
and offering a gradual slope of 45 degrees. But a few
years ago the whole mass, for thousands of feet up, had
taken a sudden slide of a few yards, and in that fearful
tumble completely ruined the continuity of its beautiful
slope. Gigantic cliffs of clear blue ice, each rising sheer
for hundreds of feet, are now ranked in line one above
another to the very skies. Great yawning crevasses,
hundreds of feet deep, scar and chasm the whole mass
in every direction, while huge chunks of crystal, as large
as cathedrals, lie thickly strewn on every hand.

All day long we mushed through the soft snows,
or cut our way up these walls of ice. The day was
perfect, but we had started several hours too late and
the soft snow was too much for us. Reaching an alti-
tude of 10,500 feet by 2 p.m., w^e concluded to turn
back, as it would be impossible to get to the peak that
day. We reached our camp in safety after spending
twelve and a half hours of hard work on ice and snow.
Realizing our need of a higher starting point, the next
afternoon we packed our blankets up the glacier and
made our camp high on a medial moraine. But a great
storm of rain wet us through that night and drove us
back to our previous camp. Two days later the weather
cleared again and we made our second camp high up
the glacier, but the next morning brought a raging
blizzard which drove us back to our permanent camp.

Our time limit had now about expired. It was too
great a disappointment to fail again as we had last year,
so I resolved, with the consent of our party, to try the
steeper rock cliffs of the north side. The storm of the
morning continued unabated all day, but by four p.m.
I had said good-bye to my companions and alone started

4 Canadian Alpine Journal.

off in the storm to make my high camp. 1 crossed the
g-ravel bed of the Robson Divitle. then scrambled for
another mile over the great rocks that strewed the shores
of Berg Lake. The short day was nearly done by the
time I had passed over the rock-strewn lloor of the
valley below the lake and bridged its turbulent river;
then, for more than two thousand feet, I packed my load
of blankets and instruments to a shelf on the cliffs, in
mid air. I spent an uncomfortable and restless night
on a bed of snow, for I was high alxjve tree-line, and
the cold wind found me even through my heavy blankets.

By the first light of dawn I was storming the
heights. For thousands of feet, the great rock towered
overhead, fringed and fretted with dripping icicles that
hung in masses from the over-hanging cliffs, sometimes
as much as fifty feet in length. Narrow slopes of shale,
at the foot of each wall, were as difficult to traverse as
the cliffs themselves, for I had to plough knee-deep
through freshly-fallen snow.

I followed narrow snow-covered ledges that dwindled
sometimes to but a few inches in width, while ever over-
head hung those threatening lance-like icicles dripping
their cold water upon me, for the warm sunshine now
added these to other dangers. Ever and anon, with a
report like a rifle, a chunk would break off from above
and stab viciously into the narrow ledge near me, or
vanish with a swift swish of flight into the silence of
the gulf below. The steep, narrow^ chimneys in some
places were so full of soft snow that I would w^allow
nearly shoulder-deep before getting a solid foot-hold, and
at other times I frequently had to shovel a way through
overhanging snow.

In one of the cliffs my path narrowed to a mere
perpendicular crack in the wall. Up this I squeezed a
w^ay for a hundred feet, only to find a rock weighing
about tw^enty-five pounds had lodged directly over head
and held in check a small avalanche of stones and snow.

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Mount Robson 5

With great care I removed the smaller stones, one by-
one; then bracing myself, I loosened the larger one and
let it slip down over my back into the great stillness
below. By ten-thirty the last of those cliffs, that had
been deemed impossible, had been climbed, and I stood
on the summit of the great north shoulder at nearly ten
thousand feet altitude.

The day had begun fine and I had taken some
splendid photographs, but now a wrack of clouds was
already burying the neighboring peaks on a level with
me or below, and, when I swung round the north
shoulder to the west side, I met a screaming gale. It
was beyond question the fiercest wind I ever met. Three
different occasions while crossing a long, exposed shale
slope, it literally blew me off my feet and tumbled me
over; while there were times when I could not force
my way against it a single step. I followed this slope
around to the west for nearly a mile, then for over an
hour waited in the lee of a cliff, hoping the storm would
pass, but, instead of subsiding, it added the lash of snow
to its fury, and whipped around the jutting crags in a
driving white spray. I then worked my way up pro-
tected gulleys and left cliff on cliff behind. But the
increased force of the storm brought an evening that
completely conquered me. I had climbed above the soft,
loose snows of the lower levels and now had dry, solid
footing. All the big cliffs had been passed, and I had
only the smaller ramparts of the upper slope of the
western side to conquer. The Fraser Valley swept in
brief glimpses before me, and I was at least over seven
thousand feet above the Grand Forks river below. The
cliffs were so perpendicular that I was forced to follow
the draws, and it was there that the enemy lurked.
There were no big glaciers above or walls of ice to
topple masses of debris upon me as on the east side, but
in that blinding blizzard each and every couloir became

6 Canadian Alpine Journal.

a foaming cataract oi hissing snow. At first it came
in little drihhles. and clilT on cliff was left behind, but
soon 1 was wading knee-deep in rushing torrents of dry,
pulverized snow. There was no escaping it. T struggled
on till I was over 10,500 feet altitude by the aneroid,
but these torrents of snow were becoming avalanches,
and to be swept off one's feet meant certain death. The
wind and snow were too much for me. I would like
to have made a camp there, in some sheltered nook, but
I had promised my friends that I would be back that
day, so with disappointed hopes I started on a diftkult
descent. At the first opportunity, at about the 10,000 ft.
level, I built a cairn of stones and deposited the little
message bottle I had hoped to leave at the peak.

I made rapid time returning, and glissaded the
whole length of a two-thousand foot snow-slope. Leaving
the snow-storms of winter above, I plunged through the
clouds and found it raining hard. The rain had played
havoc with a huge glacier in a hanging valley opposite.
Just as I got below the clouds I was startled by a fearful
explosion, then the whole face of the glacier crumpled
up, plunged over the cliffs and swept into the valley.
It took ten minutes by my watch before the ice boulders
of the front came to rest in the bottom. I have watched
Lefroy and Temple and other mighty peaks send crash-
ing ice-falls into their peaceful valleys ; I have seen great
avalanches of snow plunge and billow down the mighty
sides of Sir Donald, racing each other two and three at
a time, as they eat up the forests in their paths, and stop
all traffic on the C. P. R. for nearly a week ; but the
hurtling masses of that mountain of falling ice were
simply appalling, and far beyond all my previous ex-
perience.

I had much difficulty in getting below the clififs,
but finally reached my cache of blankets on the ledge
and hurried to the valley below. It was after dark

Mount Robs on 7

before I saw the light of our camp fire through the
storm; and oh! the hot stew of goat meat was great,
after over thirty hours with nothing but cold lunches.

The next morning was so fine that instead of pack-
ing our ponies for our home trip as was planned, we
resolved to have one more try at Mount Robson and
then get home by forced marches. So that afternoon
found us again in our temporary camp high up Robson
Glacier, and the next day, Sept. 12th, dawned with the
sky full of stars above glistening peaks.

Everything pointed to success that morning as we
started for our final climb. The snow was hard and
frosty and the footing proved so good that by 7 a.m. we
had left behind the screws of the glacier and had reached
an altitude of over 10,000 ft. Some few years previously
great cliffs of ice had toppled over the edge of the gulf
and made chaotic our pathway to the summit. Now we
found that where we had toiled so hard a few days ago
below the solid blue walls, an avalanche had swept away
our path and buried our trail beneath a million tons of
ice. Other broken and over-reaching masses hung sus-
pended above our heads. Just as we reached the foot of
the first cliff, a great mass let loose from above, missed
us by scarce fifty feet. For one awful moment we held
our breath ; then we forgot the hurtling slides, although
they continued their roar throughout the day. For an
hour we cut steps up a wall of ice; then we chisled a
path around an overhanging cliff and sunk knee-deep in
the now^ softened snows of its crest. For four hours and
a half we literally hung on the face of that wall of ice,
by finger and toe-holes only ; and in all that time we
gained not more than five hundred feet. Here, amid the
wreck of a snow-white world we ate our lunch, and then
for half an hour followed a chasm, crossed its frail snow-
bridge, and swarmed up a lofty hillock of snow. Here
chaos reigned supreme, for this was where the big snow-
field had broken off. Above frowned walls of ice, fully

8 Caninliufi Alpine JouduiI.

a thousand feet hi.c^h, wliile at their feet tlie snow but
imperfectly covered the jumble of iceberg's and their
treacherous crevasses. We wormed our way amid these
ruins and crossed great crevasses on little snow bridges;
then, amid the drip of icicles, chopped our way up inter-
vening cliffs till a rampart of ice walled out the view to
the peak. A narrow slope of snow hung down those
walls and shoved out a cornice far over a mighty berg-
schrund at our feet. The snow hung down to the level
of our shoulders. I cut a couple of steps in the hard
edge above my head ; then striking my axe into it as
high as I could reach, I literally pulled myself up till I
could place my feet in those notches. Then I cut more
steps till I was the full length of the rope above the
crevasse. Anchoring myself there, I waited till Dr.
Coleman had footing in the snow, and then cut more
steps. Thus, one at a time, the three of us gained the
slope. From there we followed the steep winding valleys
of snow, up almost inaccessable grades, crossed more
crevasses and climbed other cliffs, till at last our rough
boots ploughed the white, dry snow of the crest of the
highest cliff, and but a narrow field separated us from
the peak of the mountain itself. We had reached an
altitude of 11,700 ft, and it was 4 o'clock p.m.

The peak rose " stern and steep " for two thousand
feet or more above us, but it offered a possible though
difficult slope of snow clear to the summit. After eating
a lunch and burying a bottle containing our names in
the snow, we started again, but a huge bergschrund
separated us from the upper snows and, when we ap-
proached it, the whole field on which we stood gave a
sudden lurch and settled a few inches, while masses of
snow bridges fell into the widened crevasse. We could,
by making a wide detour, get around this great crack,
but it was decided that we had better give up the attempt,
so we started back for camp.

Mount Robson 9

The downward trip was more or less uneventful.
We glissaded the safer slopes and carefully retraced our
line of steps cut in the cliffs. Sometimes the drip of
icicles had filled the notches with ice, in other places the
avalanche had swept away our pathway; but gradually
we left behind the cliffs and snow-bridges and glided
swiftly to the glacier below. It was scarcely dark by
the time we reached our little camp. We had spent more
than fourteen hours amid the fearful glories of that
splendid mountain.

In fifteen days we were again in Edmonton and
the joys and dangers of our desperate climb are now
but happy memories.

Editorial Note.

The strong feature of the foregoing narrative of the series
of attempts made by Dr. A. P. Coleman, L. Q. Coleman and
the Rev. G. B. Kinney, during two successive years, to reach
the summit of Mount Robson, is the plucky and desperate
climb made by Mr. Kinney alone, when one night was spent
on the mountain.

It will be noted that Mr. Kinney states he would have
spent a second night but for a promise to his companions to
return. The succeeding day was fine, and, had he done so,
he would undoubtedly have reached the summit and have made
the first ascent of this noble peak, a conquest he richly de-
served.

All honor is due to the party for its magnificent eflforts
and, in extending our sympathy to those concerned for a lost
fight, against adverse weather conditions, we sincerely hope
that Mr. Kinney may be successful in his next attempt.

10 Ca)iaiiia)i Alpine Journal.

AN EARLY ATTEMPT TO CLIMB
MT. ASSINIBOINE.

By Walter D. Wilcox.

On July iJth, 1895, amid the soft glow of a setting
sun, I reached the summit of a barren pass, surrounded
by everlasting snow, and looked eastward into a deep,
forested valley, and southward over strange snow-
fields and mountains. The distant peaks were in-
distinct in the purplish haze of forest fire smoke, and
there was a silence of a perfect calm, that silence only
found in the mountains high above tree-line. Whether the
white man had ever stood here before and looked upon this
scene, I knew not, but the mountains were marvellously
impressive in their solitude. As the lengthening shadows
crept over the rocks, and ice needles began to shoot across
the pools, I remembered that it was many miles to camp,
and regretfully bent my steps in retreat, but not with-
out a last lingering look at a sharp, wedge-shaped peak,
to the south, rising above snow-fields and crevassed
glaciers and then falling away into a great wall of rock
that I knew culminated a few miles northwards in Mt.
Assiniboine.

After nearly a week of marching we had, that very
day, enjoyed our first view of the wonderful mountain
and our camp was now located at its northern base. The
account of my experience, round the evening camp fire,
excited my friends, and our plans were made forthwith
to spend the following day in exploration. The next
morning dawned clear and cold and a change of wind
had swept away every trace of smoke and left an azure
sky. At an early hour, Barrett, Porter and I were on
foot, with lunches and cameras, and after skirting the

■^

An Early Attempt on Mt. Assinihoine. 11

ice-berg filled lake at the foot of Assiniboine, turned
eastward and began to ascend a broad, open valley, full
of small lakes and running streams, interrupted here and
there by water-falls and miniature canyons, beautified by
clumps of larches, and hemmed in to the south by a
curious, castellated ridge, bristling with gendarmes and
rock towers. Arrived at the pass summit, which is a
part of the continental watershed, dividing the sources
of the Spray from the last rivulet of the Simpson River,
we ascended an easy peak on our left and there, at an
altitude of about 9000 feet, looked upon a magnificent
panorama of the entire Assiniboine system, now seen
from a totally new point of view. This face is a nearly
vertical wall, and its outline is more blunt than from the
north showing also a remarkable buttress on the south
arete. The great ridge extending southward rises into
two high peaks, one of which seemed nearly, or quite
11,000 feet in height. In the surrounding valleys we
counted more than fifteen lakes, while below us to the
left was a chain of three, whose total length could not
have been less than four miles.

The day was only well begun, the weather glorious,
and, filled with enthusiasm engendered by such inspiring
scenery, and the novelty and suddenness of the unfold-
ing, we began to discuss the idea of descending into the
valley of lakes. Barrett said he preferred to spend an
hour or two on the peak, studying the mountains with
his field-glass, and after wishing us good luck and per-
suading us to carry his revolver, as we all expected to
meet grizzly bears in those days, Porter and I rapidly
descended the long scree slopes, and then, turning east-
ward, plunged into the depths of the forest. Here in the
stream bed we saw the skull and horns of a Bighorn
where, years ago he had lain down for his last sleep.
At length we came to the borders of the lowermost lake,
some three thousand feet below our recent outlook point.
We were surprised at the great size of the trees and

12 Canadian Alpine Journal.

found no little ditViculty scrambling throng-h the nnder-
bnsh and over the decayint^: and nioss-sj^rown trunks.
The sombre darkness of the forest, and P)arrett's final
warning about grizzly bears, and his idea that we were
liable at any moment to stumble over one of these sleep-
ing monsters, made us expect unseen dangers from every
particularly dense mass of underbrush. Reaching the
lake end. we followed up the inlet stream, and present-
ly hearing the sound of rushing water, came suddenly
upon a tine waterfall. Some lively scrambling amongst
rock ledges and forest was rewarded by our reaching the
second lake, the remarkably pure and clear water of
which was surrounded on every side by m.uskegs and
pools, where we had to give up all idea of dry feet, and,
in some places, were glad to progress at all. We were
disappointed with the view and so pushed on, in an en-
deavor to reach the third and last lake, and after a try-
ing battle with the dense timber, finally succeeded. As
the water of this lake began to appear through the trees,
we could see Mt. Assiniboine rising in glacier-clad cliffs
and vertical walls, nearly six thousand feet above us,
making a most impressive view. I tried to level my
camera amongst the logs and stumps, stranded along the
shore, and get a photograph. Myriads of mosquitoes
nearly baffled every effort and the resulting negative
shows a horizon far from level. At length, retracing
our steps, we climbed the two thousand feet to the pass
and reached camp tired, but most satisfied with our day's
work.

This excursion, which led to our circuit of Assini-
boine a few days later, where we saw the south side of
the mountain and got a good idea of its radiating spurs,
led me to believe that Assiniboine would be climbed
only by its southern slopes. The most feasible way to reach
that side was to reverse our circuit of the mountain,
taking our horses down the North Fork of the Cross
River, then, after climbing an intercepting ridge, place

An Early Attempt on Mt. Assiniboine. 13

a bivouac at the mountain's base. Time and circum-
stances brought this question to the test six years later.
So it came about, that in July, 1901, Mr. Henry G.
Bryant and I had perfected plans for a double purpose,
first to make an attempt to climb Mt. Assiniboine and
secondly, to penetrate as far as possible into the great
white area on Dawson's map, south of the Kananaskis
Lakes, marked with the magic word "Unexplored," that
most fascinating and suggestive of all names to any
lover of the wilderness.

We arrived at Canmore on the night of the 22nd,
accompanied by the Swiss guides, Edouard Feuz and
Fritz Michel. Canmore, known to the casual visitor for
its coal mines, its dairy supplies, and more important
still, as the place where the observation car is put on, is
a little village whose scenic charm grows with ac-
quaintance, in a manner very surprising to those who
only know it from a passing train. Broad, grassy
meadows, and the swirling river, with many a pool and
quiet back-water to reflect the green forests and grey
mountain peaks, give a beauty, that with a little en-
couragement from, the hand of man, would make a
resort similar in many respects to Banff. The hotel
however, is not up to the standard of the inspiring
scenery, but such poor accommodation as it offered we
had to accept for the night, as our outfit of men and
horses was awaiting us miles away in the valley of the
Spray.

The next day witnessed the start of an expedition
that eventually proved most interesting and successful.
To save time and energy with our many packages and
unwieldy burdens w^e engaged a wagon to transport
ourselves and baggage the first three or four miles to-
wards the pass in the mountains, locally called the
White Man's Pass, though indeed, it is only the first
gap and the real pass lies some forty miles farther west.
The top of this break in the long ridge that extends to

14 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Banff in one direction, and tnany miles in tlie otlier, is
a wild pass, full of broken limestones, silent and myster-
iously impressive, partly from a certain grandeur of
cliffs rising al>ove the narrow trail, and partly also from
the abrupt change from the frame buildings and coal
mines of Canmore. to the solitude of the untrammeled
wilderness.

Winding along the narrow pathway, our little
company made a striking though motley appearance, the
Swiss guides and one of our men struggling under the
several clumsy packages that made up a folding boat, in
wliich we hoped to explore many an unknown lake in
the mountain fastnesses, while Bryant and I were cum-
bered with rope, ice-axes, cameras, and all those odds and
ends that, by some fatality or other, never seem to be
ready for the original start of the pack-train. Shortly
before the lunch hour we were descending the western
slope in the valley of the Spray and after passing
through a green forest, came to the encampment of our
men. There is something peculiarly delightful in the
first day's camp, but to come upon it suddenly, and find
it all prepared, the tents and great teepee for the men
set up, the fireplace in order, with a line of buckets each
hanging from its hook, and sending clouds of steam and
savoury odors into the forest air, the plates and dishes
already set out on the canvas table giving promise of the
coming meal, is indeed the height of wilderness luxury.
In every detail of the camp there were evidences of the
competence and ability of our men, and it would have
been a difficult matter to have found a more capable lot,
a fact that justly gave us confidence as to the results of
our explorations. Ben Woodworth, endowed with bub-
bling good humor and an unlimited fund of anecdotes,
swinging his axe with accurate and powerful strokes,
kept the woodpile ahvays replenished and the fireplace
a joy to gather round. Jim Wood, experienced as a
packer, and Tom Lusk, ever industriously mending his

II : D. n i/cox. Photo.

ON THE MARCH.

Ji: D. in/cox. Photo.

CAMP NORTH-EAST OF MT. ASSINIBOINE.

An Early Attempt on Mt. Assinihoine. 15

saddles and keeping his equipment in perfect order,
proud of never having a sore-backed horse, even when
marching through the roughest country, made up our
trio of men who were to look after our horses for many
weeks to come. All were soft spoken, using the low,
mellow notes of the true backwoodsman, acquired amid
the silence of forest depths, and each one could replace
the other in packing, cooking, or wielding the axe.

Marching some three hours that afternoon we con-
tinued the next day along the shores of the Spray Lakes.
At the end of the first lake there is an old log shack and
here, pausing a few moments to make some readjust-
ment of a pack, we all dismounted for a short rest. And
now an accident occurred, most unfortunate to our
chances of reaching the summit of Mt. Assiniboine,
though we were loth to admit it at the time. Michel, in
mounting his horse, either allowed the nail shod toe of
his boot or the point of his ice-axe to prod his horse, so
that he was hardly in the saddle before he was bucked off,
head first, falling heavily to the ground. He narrowly
missed striking some broken glass bottles. He rose at
once, dancing round in agony, but Edouard immediate-
ly divining that his shoulder had been dislocated, with a
powerful pull, snapped it back into position. Michel,
though in great pain, had the sand to ride the same
pony the rest of the day.

The mountains were full of clinging mists, and as
the day advanced the heat became intense, both of which
facts augured a break in the weather. We passed the
last of the lakes and, fording the swift running Spray
in safety, rode for miles through burnt timber, till we
came at length to the forks of the river, where the
stream that rises at the base of Mt. Assiniboine joins
that from the White Man's Pass. Here, in a clump of
green timber, we established a permanent camp and
separated that part of our provisions and outfit that was
needed for our attempt on Assiniboine.

16 Canadian Alf^inc Journal.

The next day. leaving Ben Woodvvorth in charge
of tliis camp, though niucli to his apparent regret, we
continued up the Spray River, now in a northwesterly
direction. Fritz Michel accompanied ns. not that we
had any hope of using him on the moimlain, for his
arm. almost black from shoulder to wrist, was now
swollen to twice its size, so that he could no longer pull
on his coat sleeve, but rather to afford him a certain
amount of exercise and excitement, that might prove
beneficial.

After an hour and a half we got our first view of
Assiniboine. The long wooded valley nearly filled with
the chain of lakes which I had first seen six years be-
fore, now opened up on our left and allowed us a fine
view of the precipitous wall which culminates in the
impressive peak that we were soon to see from a more
striking point of view, and finally attack on its opposite
side, after making a circuit of nearly forty miles from
our present position. Thus far our journey had been
through continuous burnt forest, making probably the
most monotonous and least interesting of all trips in the
mountains. But now we enjoyed one of those sudden
transformations that make the Rockies so interesting,
for, reaching the end of the burnt timber, and ascending
a low knoll of limestone, we looked down upon a green
meadow full of wild flowers, where the reddish horse-
sorrel, the blue-black larkspur, and scarlet painted-cups,
made a strange combination of colors. Under a
limestone ledge we saw an immense pile of the flowers
of the painted-cup, probably gathered by some marmot
for his winter store. About half a mile distant eight
mountain goats were quietly browsing, perfectly un-
aware of our presence. Jim Wood set of¥ with a rifle,
and after a long and careful stalk, missed hitting any-
thing, not at all to our regret, as we had our larder well
stored and were in no need of game. The goats clam-

ir. D. Wilcox. Pholo.

MT. ASSINIBOINE FROM NORTH-EAST.
Photographed at Altitude about 9000 Feet.

An Early At f erupt on Mt. Assiniboine. 17

bered a thousand feet or so up the mountain side and
could be seen from our camp several hours later. The
intense heat and southerly breezes of the past few days
culminated in rain that afternoon. However, I im-
proved the opportunity to explore a pass lying to the
north of our camp, which for several years I had hoped
might prove a shorter route to Mt. Assiniboine than
any hitherto discovered. Though Mt. Assiniboine is
not twenty miles from Banff, as the crow flies, the long
unbroken ridges make detours, and a journey of several
days, necessary to reach its base. A hard hour's work,
traversing a steep hillside through fallen timber,
brought me to an old Indian trail, following which I
came to an upland valley, and after a walk of two miles
saw some teepee poles that had been used not long be-
fore. Then turning northwesterly I came at length
to the summit of a pass 7,850 feet in altitude. Two
piles of stones, apparently of Indian origin, marked the
route along the highest crest. On the other side I look-
ed down into a green valley between very sharp and
jagged ridges, running slightly east of north, and then
about five miles distant another valley opened up at
right angles. This no doubt is some part of Healy's
Creek and if the lower part of the valley is not im-
passable from burnt timber, this route is feasible and
possibly shorter than any other to Mt. Assiniboine.
Heavy showers of sleet and rain now began to . fall,
and after working through the wet brush for several
hours, I reached camp soaked through and chilled to the
bone. In the night there was more rain and heavy
thunder.

Though it was still raining in the morning we
packed up and climbed the pass out of the Spray valley
and entered the extensive moors north of Assiniboine.
The clouds rolled away in masses and revealed the great
mountain in a dazzling coat of new snow.

18 CanadiiUi .-Hpinc Journal.

Passing- the chain ol bcanlil'nl lakes that conspire
to make this one of the most attractive spots in all the
mountains, we continued to the west, descending into
the burnt timber of the Cross River valley. Here the
surroundings were more desolate, and nature frowned
in sympathy, the clouds deepened and rain fell in con-
tinuous showers that made us thoroughly miserable till
we had turned in for the night. Our tents were placed
on the shore of the deei>blue lake which rests against
the ice-covered cliffs of Assiniboine's northwestern
spurs, where Mr, S. E. S. Allen had camped in 1895.
What made us more depressed was the certainty that
these heavy rains meant ever deepening snows on the
chill heights of Assiniboine's upper cliffs. In fact, the
rain was so continuous and heavy the next morning,
that there was no thought of packing up till about noon,
when a slight turn for the better tempted us to march
again. But, lost in the mazes of burnt timber, where
few if any horses had ever passed before, we made very
poor headway, and, at length, coming to places where
the trail had been washed away by the rushing river,
now at the north-west corner of the Assiniboine group,
we were forced into the trackless depths of a mossy
forest. Chilled by the continuous showers, while the
men were chopping through the logs and water-soaked
brush, our horses now added to our troubles by proving
refractory. After having marched southwards many
miles in the valley of the Cross we camped at length by
the river. The weather cleared in the night, and, in
the morning, the sun shone from an azure sky. We
were on the march at an early hour, confident that this
day would mark the end of our journey with the pack
horses. It remained to identify the spot where Barrett,
Peyto and I had descended the ridge in 1895 in our
circuit of the mountain. Casting about in my memory
for some feature to identify the locality, I recalled a
certain curious clay bank on the east side of the river.

// ■. />. // ilcu.v, I'lwt

MT. ASSINIBOINE FROM EAST-XORTH-EAST
Photographed at Altitude about 6000 Feet,

An Early Attempt on Mt. Assintboine. 19

where the clay itself is made up of innumerable layers,
each as thin as a sheet of paper, evidently the slow-
settling deposits of mud in some glacial lake, now long
since filled up. As we were marching along, ever alert
for this, I suddenly became aware of various features
of the landscape, a broken tree, a clump of bushes, a
distant peak, as in a dream, slowly harmonizing them-
selves to fit the picture carried in the mind's eye through
the years. Then, as the impression grew stronger, we
rounded a sharp corner of the river and came in full
view of the well-remembered clay-bank, now realizing
that one part of our campaign was ended. The after-
noon was spent in preparation for the morrow, our
blankets and rain soaked clothing were spread out in
the' warm sunshine, the climbing rope was measured and
overhauled, while Tom Lusk boiled up a quantity of
salt pork and made a number of bannocks for our side
trip.

We were now almost south of Assiniboine, but the
great peak could not be seen, as an intervening ridge
cut off all possibility of a view. Our camp was in the
long, straight valley of the Cross River, here flowing
south-easterly, to enter the western slopes of the White
Man's Pass, not many miles distant. The height and
nature of the ridge between us and Assiniboine was
almost the same as Sulphur Mountain at Banff, though
perhaps not so steep and densely wooded, and this we
had to cross, with all our instruments of war and
materials for a bivouac, which latter we intended to
locate at the very base of Assiniboine. Jim Wood
volunteered to help us pack our things to the top of
the ridge, but in spite of this assistance, our packs were
very heavy. However, in a little more than three hours
we had ascended 3,050 feet and stood on the top of the
ridge, where we looked with eager and anxious eyes
upon the south slopes of Assiniboine, rising in steep
cliffs a full 6,000 ft. out of the valley below us. Long

20 Canadian Alpine Journal.

study oi photos^raphs had impressed a very different
image upon our niiiuls tlian what lay before our eyes.
Assiniboine. in a new coat of snow, looked far steeper
and more inacccssihk- iliaii what we liad hoped for. We
consoled ourselves with the knowledge that all mountain
slopes, looked at directly from a distance, appear far
steeper than they are. Wood now left us, and with
increased weight of packs, we descended to the valley
and found a place to sleep near the strange leaf-shaped
lake that had so impressed us in 1895. Its waters are
deep, and covered still with innumerable floating logs
and ancient hulks of trees, the burden of some former
snow-slide. From here, the mountain looked far more
accessible, and Edouard spent much time working out
possible routes for the next day. Little did we realize
the countless difficulties, unseen from out point of view.
Rolling up in our blankets at an early hour, we took
such sleep as discomfort and the excitement of our pro-
jected endeavor allowed.

The next morning, July 30th, dawned clear and
promising. With 6,000 feet of a difficult mountain
before us, Edouard awakened us at an early hour, and
at five o'clock we started on what necessarily had to be
at the same time our first and final attempt. The tem-
perature was 50 degrees, too warm for the best con-
dition of snow, but, on the other hand, there was no
probability of storm. We struck up through the brush
and grassy slopes, making excellent time, so that at the
end of the first hour our aneroid read 7,325 feet, or a
good 1,300 feet above our camp. The second hour,
over broken stones and slides, becoming steeper as they
led up to the lowermost cliffs, saw us 1,100 feet higher
at 8,425 feet. Putting on the rope, Edouard leading,
with Bryant next and myself last, we struck up to a line
of clififs, and now for the next tw^o and one-half hours
my note-book shows no record of our progress. In
fact, the constant succession of cliffs, couloirs and snow

An Early Attempt on Mt. Assiniboine. 21

slopes demanded our uninterrupted attention. Some
mountains, though difficult, permit of a high average
speed being made, but we found our progress on this
slope, where each of us had to move one at a time,
treading with care in precarious footholds, ever watching
the rope lest it dislodge stones on those below, most
exasperatingly slow, so that we only gained 1,125 ^^^^
in those two and one-half hours. Here, at 9,550 feet,
we unroped for a light luncheon and rest.

Once more taking up our work, we attacked a
succession of couloirs, some filled with ice, and as each
was overcome, another more difficult had to be con-
fronted. The rope was necessary at every point, and
our advance had to be made with exceeding care. In
one couloir, after an interval of climbing, Feuz dis-
appeared above us and, as at length the rope was all
paid out, Bryant started to climb, but just at this moment
Edouard shouted out : "Be careful, I am in a very bad
place here." It seems he had reached the top of the
rocks, and above them was a steep shelf, covered with
ice and overlaid with a mass of loose stones, ready to
fall at the slightest touch. As the great slabs of stone
came rattling down the couloir with metallic, almost
bell-like sound, we hugged close to the rocks, but even
so we were both struck several times by dangerously
heavy stones. There was one consolation in our situa-
tion, for we realized that every stone that fell made one
less above us, and, provided we could hold out long
enough, there was an improving chance of our getting
up this bad place. As the rope was now all paid out,
Bryant and I had to advance directly in to the track of
falling stones, while Feuz, with cat-like tread and careful
balance, and with absolutely no hand holds, merely pre-
carious resting places for his hands on the loose stones,
which he feared to dislodge upon us, crept higher, and
at length reached a fairly clear place. Then, assisted
by the rope, we came up one at a time. As last man

22 Cniiiulia)! Alpine Journal.

I had the full benefit of this trying situation, but the
last man has one great advantage, that he may dislodge
as many stones as he likes, without worrying about the
consecjuences.

Meanwhile, the sun. shining out of a clear sky, was
doing tremendous work on the snow slopes above us.
The roar of avalanches became more and more frequent,
and the long, serpentine streams could be seen, from
time to time, pouring down the amphitheatre on our
left. Echoed and re-echoed amongst the cliffs, the
sound of these snow slides appeared to come from every
point of the compass. While we were not in the lowest
part of the shallow, cirque-like depression, which ap-
pears to the south side of the mountain, we were, on
the other hand, not on an arete, and so it was quite
possible that a great avalanche could sweep over the
part of the mountain where we now were. Thus every
distant booming roar was startling, and most trying to
the nerves, and from time to time Feuz stopped to listen
in an endeavor to detect danger at the earliest possible
moment. The worst of our situation was that no im-
provement could be hoped for. The sun was moment-
arily becoming more powerful, all the rocks and cliffs
were dripping, and we sank knee-deep in the soft snow,
wdiich scaled off and started miniature slides below us.
We all realized at the time, what Feuz admitted later,
that the mountain was in a very dangerous condition.
Owing, however, to the great efforts expended to get
to the mountain, this being the eighth day of our efforts
to reach it, we were taking unusual risks. Shortly after
this we came to a more difficult problem than any we
had encountered hitherto, in the form of an excessively
steep ice-slope, covered with new snow. Here, for the
first time, the possibility of defeat arose in our minds,
though but two hours previous we had been reasonably
confident of success. A slight slip on the part of any
one here, even a careless bit of work on the treacherous

An Early Attempt on Mt. Assinihoine. 23

snow, would have been a serious matter. However, we
got through it in safety. Reading over the accounts of
various ascents, it seems remarkable how many times
this most dangerous of all mountain climbing conditions
is successfully encountered. Memory of these chances,
however, has slight calming effect on the nerves, while
the work is actually going on.

At about half-past twelve we came to the foot of
a vertical wall which, in many places, was actually over-
hanging. Unroping for a moment while Bryant and I
took photographs of the marvellous view, Edouard made
a reconnaissance along the shelf to the right in search
of some couloir, but there was none. We were nearly
at the top of the great rock buttress which is such a
striking feature of Mt. Assiniboine's southern arete. A
short distance south from where we were, this cliff
swings around to the north and drops away into the
almost vertical cliffs of the east face. There being no
possible way of ascent on that side, we now explored
along the shelf in the opposite direction. Not far to
the left we found a snow couloir, excessively steep, and
this we began to ascend, Edouard cutting steps with care.
Our progress was very slow, too slow in fact to give us
any assurance of final success, and here, accordingly, we
had a discussion as to whether we should continue or
not. It was now after one o'clock, and we had been
more than eight hours reaching our present altitude,
which was about ii,ooo feet. The slopes of Assiniboine
are so steep in this part that we could see only a short
distance ahead, but we knew that there were nearly a
thousand feet more to be climbed, which Edouard calcu-
lated would require another three hours to accomplish.
If we continued on and reached the summit, provided
we could do so with the snow it its present condition,
we could, at the very best, no more than get back before
dark to the shelf where we now were, there to spend the
night exposed to intense cold, at ii,ooo feet above sea

24 Cauuiiiiin Alpine Journal.

level, with the not remote possibility of having our water-
soaked feet frozen. Our excessively slow progress up
the snow couloir was the last straw that made us decide,
though not without regret, to beat a retreat. Thus the
south side of Assiniboine had been tried in vain. With
the snow in good condition and a little more detailed
knowledge of the mountain, we might have climbed
Assiniboine from our bivouac at 6,000 feet, but tlie
element of time is the chief obstacle to success by this
route, as the last 3.500 or 4,000 feet is a constant climb
where the entire party can rarely or never move forward
together.

We had. even in 'defeat, a certain consolation. The
climb itself had been most interesting, and from our
highest point there was unfolded a splendid panorama:
the white line of the Selkirks visible for a hundred miles
of their northward course, and to the south an inspiring
view over a little known and hardly explored part of
the Rockies. Moreover, we had carried the record to
another higher level on the mountain, making the last
attempt before Mr. Outram's successful ascent exactly
five weeks later. What, therefore, seemed at first the
least practical method of attack, from the north, event-
ually proved the correct solution, for it has three great
advantages, a level 1500 feet higher to start from, the
possibility of using the main camp as a base, and a larger
proportion of snow slopes, where rapid climbing can be
done. At the time of our ascent we were not aware
that the north-western slopes of the mountain could be
skirted.

When we started to climb the steep snow couloir
leading through the clifif at 11,000 feet, Feuz left his
card under a pile of rocks at the base of this clifif as a
record in case we did not get back. Mr. Bryant, also,
says that he feels confident that if we had continued on
that day that the probabilities w^ere very greatly against
our successful return to civilization.

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An Early Attempt on Mt. Assiniboine. 25

In our descent we found it impossible to cross
certain snow slopes that we had ascended, as they were
facing the western sun, and we had a most uncomfort-
able hour on the steep ice-slope. A final variation of
route allowed us to make a long glissade of nearly
two thousand feet, saving tiresome work in the lower
couloirs. We reached our bivouac at seven-thirty, after
having been out fourteen and one-half hours.

26 CiDtiuiiau Alpine Journal.

Till': SKCOND ASCENT OF MT. TUPPER.

By Jean Parker.

Mt. Tuppcr is at the south-east extremity of the
Hermit range, a sub-range of the Selkirks. It was first
called Mt. Hermit from the fact that on the ridge lead-
ing to it stands a pinnacle which suggests a statue of a
hermit. Recently, however, the name " Hermit " has
been appropriated to another peak in the range. From
all points of view, Mt. Tupper appears an easy and
short climb. Short it is. for it is but 9,222 feet high.
But several attempts had been made upon it before it
was conquered in 1906 by a German named Koehler,
with Edouard Feuz, Jr., and Gottfried Feuz as guides.

It was with a sense of great disappointment that I
left the Alpine camp at Rogers Pass to make my way
alons: the railwav track to Glacier House. All chance
of an attempt on Mt. Tupper seemed to have slipped
away. Going along the track I met Mr. Henry H.
Worsfold. of England, who, I found, was equally dis-
appointed. Some way. I am not sure how, but in a few
minutes we had arranged to make the attempt together
at the end of the week if the weather w^ere favorable
and we could secure the guides. Edouard Feuz, Sr.,
was with Mr. Worsfold. He was engaged on the spot,
and I hurried on to Glacier House to secure Edouard
Feuz, Jr.. who, I was relieved to find, was free for
Saturday and Sunday.

The days of waiting were spent in watching the
weather. Frequent trips were made down the track to
look at Mt. Cheops, the weather-man of the Selkirks. I
was almost afraid to leave the hotel for fear of dis-
turbing that most important factor, the weather.

The Second Ascent of Mt. Tupper 27

At last Saturday afternoon came, and, by a quarter
after three o'clock we were off for the Hermit Hut,
where we were to spend the night before making the
climb next day. It was hot and we took our time. Turn-
ing eastward we walked the five miles of railway ties,
choosing the cool snowsheds when possible, until we
reached the trail leading up to the Hermit Hut. This
hut, which is perched about 2,300 feet above Rogers
Pass, was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway for the
convenience of climbers. Nothing is too bad to say
about that trail. It is very steep, very stony, and, on
this occasion, very wet and slippery and altogether
stupid. I found it necessary to stop often, and my
stalwart companion felt anxious, as he afterw^ards con-
fessed, about my staying powers for the real climb.
However, we reached the hut at six o'clock. Once
arrived, it is a favorable place for a bivouac, for the
view is well worth a longer and more tedious climb.

The two guides had preceded us, and in a short
time the evening meal was over and we were sitting
around the camp fire watching the weather again, and
incidentally drying our feet. At nine o'clock our spirits
went down to zero, for the rain came down in torrents.
In a short time, however, it cleared up, leaving the sky
bright and clear. In a contented frame of mind we
took off our boots and slipped into the bunks for a few
hours' rest. I had some difficulty in curling myself up
to be free of the pools of water, for our tin-roofed hut
leaked. At half-past twelve we were awakened by a
prolonged downpour, and this time I felt we were
doomed for certain, for even if it did clear up there was
a probability of the rocks being covered by a thin coat
of ice. It was not a bit of use to sit up and grumble,
so I curled myself up again, this time with greater diffi-
culty, and went to sleep. But not very soundly, for I
remember distinctly the flicker of a candle and some
movement in the hut, which turned out to be Edouard

28 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Jr. chasiiii^ a nioinUain rat. 1 was linally awakened by
still more movement, which proved to be the same
Edouard gfetting breakfast. When a.sked the time, he
said " half-past seven. " Thin 1 was (juite sure the
climb was off. However, this was one of the guides'
jokes, and it was only a quarter past four. Breakfast
was soon over, the l)lankets hung on a rope out of the
reach of our visitor of tlio nisrht, the door latched and
the fire put out, and we were ready to march. It was
then ten minutes 'past five.

The morning was perfect, clear and cool. Just the
morning to make you keep moving. Moreover, there
was no cloud on Mt. Cheops and we were safe as far
as the weather was concerned. We were not a gay
party as we moved up that trail directly behind the hut,
for I, for one, felt how unpleasant it would be to return
to the hotel and face the " I told you so's." Leaving
the trail, we turned directly east, crossing a number of
little streams, running down through an easy grassy
slope. Above us were Mts. Sifton, Rogers, Swiss Peak
and Hermit, and in front of us was Mt. Tupper. Still
going eastward we crossed the tongue of the Hermit
glacier, up a short moraine, over a short snow-slope,
and gained the arete leading directly to our goal. It
was ten minutes after seven, and this was fairly good
time, for the way had been easy and we had not loitered.
At this point the rope was put on. The sun had come
out and we w^ere grateful. Any ice that may have
formed during the night had quickly disappeared.

This arete running southward, is formed by huge,
irregular blocks of solid stone, over which we scrambled
or squeezed between, with disaster to our coat buttons.
By this time a keen wind had sprung up, and I had to
borrow^ Edouard's coat. (It takes a long time to learn
how much to carry on an expedition of this kind.) We
climbed right over the " Hermit's House," squeezed

ri'\

r ^:'^

The Second Ascent of Mt. Tuppcr 29

through a crack in the " Hermit's Dog," and found
ourselves on a small plateau. Then the first really
serious work began. This was the rounding of the sheer
foot of the " Hermit " himself. This pinnacle, called
" The Hermit," occupies the w^hole of the narrow neck
that separates the long arete from the Tupper peak.
There is no getting out of it. You cannot climb over,
for it is too sharp, so you must go around it. There
were few footholds and there was a great drop beneath
us, but by doing exactly as we were told, and with the
help of the wind which blew us tightly against the rock,
we passed safely. We dropped from the foot of the
Hermit into a rock couloir. It was nine o'clock and
quite time for a second breakfast, which was quickly
dispatched. It was too cold to loiter. The guides
thought it was wiser to cache the ice-axes and rucksacks
here than to drag them along with us.

From the couloir we had a good view of the climb
before us. Immense blocks of rock rose up piled upon
each other, leaving very scanty footholds, and, in some
places, long faces without a single jutting rock. To
leave the couloir and gain the ridge above we had to
ascend a chimney twelve or fourteen feet high, in which
rock " bouquets " fell continually. I found myself wish-
ing for the limbs of that tall man who had climbed that
chimney before. However, with the help of Edouard
Senior's broad shoulder and a hand from above, I
managed to get up. We recognized the wisdom of the
guides in leaving the axes behind, for, with them, we
should have been greatly hindered. Another small and
very rotten chimney barred our way to the next ridge.
It was soon passed, and from there we crawled up a
long, plain, perpendicular face of rock to an overhanging
shelf, along which we crawled to the main corner on
the east. Our surprise was great when a short climb
brought us suddenly to a small rectangular plateau, upon

30 Canadian .Hpinc Journal.

wliich was a long rock mound about three feet high,
and upon tliat two or three stones of a stoneman. It
took several seconds to realize that we were actually
upon the summit of the long-coveted Mt. Tupper. It
was ten minutes after ten, making exactly five hours
from the Hermit Hut.

We were hungry, but alas, everything was left
behind in the couloir. My companion found a small
cake of chocolate in his pocket. We devoured this, and,
for the rest, feasted ourselves upon what we could see.
Leagues of peaks and glaciers were upon all sides of
us. I could myself recognize Mts. Victoria, Hungabee,
Biddle, Stephen, Sir Donald and the two great glaciers.
The guides pointed out numerous others — Mt. Goodsir,
the Dawson range, Mt. Forbes, the Columbia snow-
field, quite too many to name.

After the guides had made a new stone-man, we
left the top. It was exactly ten minutes after eleven.
We worked our way down, slowly and cautiously, as we
had gone up, stopping in the couloir long enough to have
a third breakfast and gather up our traps. Then we
hurried along, around the " Hermit " and over the same
huge blocks of rock and through the same cracks until
we gained the end of the arete where we unroped. The
rest of the descent w^as quickly made and the hut was
reached at ten minutes after four. The round ascent
occupied exactly ten hours.

Every step of the way had been full of interest, our
guides had been capable and thoughtful, and we were
well satisfied with the day. We had supper at the hut
and by ten minutes to seven were at Glacier House
dressing for dinner.

If I were asked what part of the whole climb was
most tiring, I would not hesitate to say, that stupid trail
from Rogers Pass to the Hermit Hut. Of the difficul-
ties there is very little to tell. From the time we left

The Second Ascent of Mt. Tupper 31

the couloir until we reached the summit it was all hard
climbing, requiring attention and obedience, but with
two such good guides we could not fail.

Editorial Note.

In conjunction with the foregoing account of the first
ascent of Mount Tupper by a lady, an account of the first
ascent, made by Wolfgang Koehler, of Leipzig, in 1906, taken
from the Minute Book at Glacier House, will be of interest
as a matter of record.

♦ » »

Ascent of Mount Tupper by Wolfgang Koehler.

(Translated from the German.)

July, 1906.

After I had spent four days with Edouard Feuz, Jr.,
in the Yoho Valley, and he had there told me of Mt.
Tupper, of which no ascent had yet been made, I deter-
mined to make the attempt.

I had still two days, so we telegraphed on June 17th
to the Glacier for blankets and stores to be provided for
us at the Hermit Range hut. The next day, by previous
arrangement, Edouard woke me at 8 o'clock. Alas ! the
weather was bad. We telegraphed down, made it a day
of rest, and went the next morning up Mount Stephen,
where Gottfried accompanied us.

On that day I went with the two of them to Rogers
Pass, where Edouard showed me Mount Tupper. I was
astonished at the beautiful wild form of the mountain,
sad over the frustration of my purpose, and mad at the
Fates who had left me so short a time here.

At Glacier we met the old Herr Feuz, and while
I was at supper the thought flew through my head,
" Perhaps you could go back again." I went up to where

32 CiViaJiiin Alp'nu- Journal.

the three stood, told them of my idea, and communi-
cated to tlicm that I had sent everything home, pick,
boots, dress, etc. *' Pick and hat I can lend you," said
Edouard, " and since you can get fresh clothes and boots
in X'ancouver, you have everything necessary."

So v^-e nailed the shoes with nails which we had
brought from Switzerland, and with light hearts away
and off to Alaska.

I started back on Sunday, July ist, but had to wait
on account of it being Dominion Day; then I quickly
bought the necessaries and journeyed back to Glacier,
where I was welcomed by the three Feuz. I quickly
lunched and changed my clothes. Alas! the breeches
were not a very good fit. However, Edouard lent me
a pair, and soon (5.10 p.m.) we joyfully wandered forth
along the track, Gottfried, Edouard and I.

It was a magnificent, cloudless day, which I found
particularly enjoyable after the weeks of rain I had ex-
perienced. Soon after Rogers Pass (6.15 p.m.) we left
the track and continued our way, pretty well warmed up
on account of our heavy packs, along the narrow path
to the hut high above, which we reached before 8 o'clock
(7.55 p.m.).

Mr. Flindt had had the kindness to lend me his
field-glasses, and often we stood still in wonderment at
the mighty walls of rock of the mountain, and we talked
of the possibility of getting to the two summits, through
the mighty collection of peaks crowded together. Gott-
fried made some fine cocoa, Edouard did the rest, and
I sat before the hut and played the mouth-organ. The
mosquitoes stung us nearly to desperation. After supper,
and a hunt after a big rat, we went, at ten o'clock, to
bed. We could, however, sleep but very little, on account
of the mosquitoes, which persecuted us terribly.

The night w'as wonderfully beautiful, a cloudless
sky and brilliant moonlight. Moreover, to be surrounded
by the dear, beautiful mountains! How one's heart goes

First Ascent of Mt. T upper 33

out to them ! Towards 4 a.m. we got up, breakfasted,
and started off (5 a.m.). We took the direction at first
immediately behind the hut, then turned off to the right,
and across the httle icy creek, looking up to the Rogers,
Swiss and Fleming's Peaks, Mount Tupper, Sifton and
Grizzly. It was always up and then down again. We
had innumerable gullies and streams to cross, until we
reached the ridge, at the end of two hours. We rested
a little and then started on again, always following the
ridge, over icy blocks.

At 7.30 we stood on the Steinmann, which Messrs.
Wheeler and Herdman reached on their expedition
along the ridge towards Mount Tupper. From below,
it looked as if everything was very bad stone, but this
was hot really the case; for the most part it is good,
rough stone. Soon we saw the great, beautiful gendarme
before us, directly in front of the little one. On a smooth
inclined plain we slid downwards for a bit, and then
stood on a piece of a very sharp ridge.

Edouard thought it was not possible to go to the
little gendarme, but we climbed in a dry furrow on the
plateau and crassed it ; then climbed along the plateau to
a beautiful canyon, high up, and so came to the little
gendarme with difficulty. We continued to the right on
easy ground, and climbed into a corner, high up the steep
precipice to the next plateau. There the hold was very
slight, notwithstanding great cautiousness. The narrow-
but solid flat brought us now to the left (about 9 a.m.)
directly behind the great gendarme, where we rested and
lunched.

We took a good look round to see where we were.
Behind the gendarme the ridge made a perpendicular
rise, perfectly smooth and without hold. Here two rect-
angular rocky walls were formed. On this ridge, on
the side towards Mount Hermit, was an enormous rock,
and in the chasm made by this wall we were able to
scramble on upwards. On the side towards IMount

34 Caniuiian Alpine Journal.

MacdonaUl runs the wall lil'tccn U) twenty iiiiimtes, willi-
oiit hold of any sort, to a boantifnl corncM-, then fifteen
minutes fm-ther on to the ris^ht. to run back again in the
old direction. In the corner a crevasse runs upwards and
seemed a further possibility.

The one which to me seemed the l)est was the fol-
lowing: In the middle of the right wall was a broad
chimney, if only we could get up there direct. Two
ridges appeared running parallel, which seemed to make
the ascent possible. We climbed to the first ridge, next
to the chimney, then up the first ridge in the chimney
itself. So far we were still right. With the help of
three picks and four hands Edouard got up a little higher,
but (juickly came down again. That could not be the
right way. He tried then to go direct by the chimney,
but that was not practicable, and so he had to come back.
In between was Gottfried, who had successfully
climbed up and stood in the chimney. I followed, Gott-
fried continued on, but a shower of big and small stones
came down. It seemed as if everything was rotten, and,
in spite of gi'eat care, not one of us could avoid bringing
down the stones. We now went on the outside, round
the rock, and came to a big flat, climbed a little broken
chimney and then got over a large rock. Soon we stood
again before the wall. One piece appeared somewdiat
loose, and formed a breach, which gave us sufficient hold
to get on to a small platform. From there it was a
short, somewhat overhanging climb to the higher plat-
form. " This is the sort of place for people with long
legs," Edouard called out (I am, to wit, 6ft. 4in.).
" Alas, we little ones have no chance."

We now came back again to the ridge, came to a
little gendarme with a beautiful outlook down the valley,
and climbed on, until we suddenly came to a wade plat-
form, from which there is no " bicycle path " to the
Aiguille du Grepon. We had all three expected that the
last piece to the summit w^ould be especially difificult. It

First Ascent of Mt. Tupper 35

looked so from the distance, but when we came to it,
quite an easy way appeared of getting up. We stepped
over one sharp knife-edged ridge, " tight-rope dancing "
we called it, and with a loud hurrah reached the summit.

" This is really the top," said Edouard. And so we
got on to the beautiful broad summit. We had all
thought that the last piece would be the hardest. With
loud yells we took possession of Mount Tupper. During
the whole way we had the most beautiful views. Although
there were some light clouds in the sky, Mt. Stephen and
Mt. Purity stood out clear and beautiful among the
nearest mountains, and the numberless other peaks and
glaciers were beautiful beyond words. Soon we thought
about crossing to the little peak over the zig-zag ridge.
I gave them three suggestions, one — the most important
— the guide was a little doubtful about, because the
weather looked likely to be bad, and we had left the
whole of our packs in the hut.

If ever again I come to Mount Tupper I would start
earlier and certainly try and make the crossing. We
took a meal and enjoyed the view and built a stoneman.
But the highest peak was not very secure footing, and
we thought we should have been blown away by the
wind.

We built, in three-quarters of an hour, a big stone-
man, bigger than I am, on the side which could be seen
from the railway by the naked eye.

Getting the necessary stones to make it was the
hardest task in the day. We then laid information in
our sugar box, the contents of which disappeared in
Gottfried's pocket, ate snow mixed with peaches, which
we split with our picks, and I played the mouth-organ,
" Ich hatt einen Kamaraden," which put us in a good
humor. We tried with Gottfried's pocket glass to make
a reflection, but failed; the sun was not right. After
we had taken some pictures of the summit, we said good-
bye to our stoneman and began the descent in very good

36 CanaJiiin .Uf^iin' Journal.

Iiunior. The two gendarmes I called " Edoiiard " and
" (aittfried," w hereupon tliev. in revenge, calleil tlie
rotten chimney, "Kcihler Chimney." Everywhere in
this place it is had antl dangerons, the rocks looking
ready to fall. We got on as quickly as possible and were
glad to get over it. We made good progress. Soon
we left the ridge behind and slid on the snow, and then
a nice glissade down into the valley. Cooled off by a
cascade which we had to go through, and greeted by
marmots and our house-rat, we came at last to the hut.
We had arranged not to spend the night there, on
account of the mosquitoes, but in an hour to continue
the descent. After a nice cocoa from Gottfried's master
hand, and having changed shoes and socks, we got
quickly down to the valley by 6 o'clock, and at 6.25
reached the railway. We washed and w^alked back by
the track. " If we only go the right w-ay." said Gottfried.
Edouard and I had the pleasure of getting covered with
coal dust from the locomotive.

At the final curve before Glacier House I said a last
farewell to my mountain. *' I hope to see you again."
And so we came back, rich in experience and in the best
form, arriving at Glacier House about 8.15.

And the moral — Mount Tupper is not a neck-
breaker, it is full of interest, but there is nothing but
what a good climber should accomplish.

Caution where the ground is very bad.

Would that many could see and experience the joy
of this beautiful mountain as I have done. To my dear
sruides I sfive mv best thanks, and wish them the best
of thines for the future, though I well know that two
such capable young guides will always be in requisition.

"Aufzi'icdcrschcn, Glacier House."

Bcvond the Asulkan 37

BEYOND THE ASULKAN.

By VV. D. Holway.

For several years F. K. Butters and the writer,
of Minneapolis, Minn., had camped and climbed in the
Canadian Rockies, but previous to 1908 had given but
little attention to the Selkirks. A flying trip to Fish
Creek Valley in 1906 had shown us that the region was
the, most attractive one within reach, and we arrived at
Glacier in July, 1908, prepared to put in all our time
there. The great length of some of the snow bridges
observed during our first trip made it seem desirable to
obtain a third man. We therefore visited the Alpine
Club Camp and fortunately persuaded Howard Palmer,
of Boston, to join us. We had two pack-sacks of ample
size; one pack-cloth, 5x6 ft., with a pack harness; one
5x8 ft. silk "A" tent with round ends, a form which
permits great variation in floor space, is absolutely
waterproof, and weighs only 5 lbs. ; two Johnson sleep-
ing bags with four thicknesses of light blankets, which
were unlaced and made into a bag large enough for three
persons, (weight 20 lb.) ; aluminum dishes, cameras,
plant press, camp axe, alpine rope, 3 ice axes, sweaters,
etc.

For provisions we carried the German erbswurst,
flour, sugar (as much as of flour), bacon, beans
thoroughly cooked at home and dried, a little corn meal,
prunes, sweet chocolate, and tea. x\ll the food was
packed in water-proof 10 lb. sacks.

Leaving the Glacier House at nine in the morning,
Ave walked up the Asulkan Valley, along the moraine,
and across the glacier to the summit of the Asulkan

38 Cavmiiati Alpine Journal.

Pass. Althoiif::li this was all up hill, 3700 feet above
the hotel, it was far easier than the steep descent of
3000 feet to the Geikie Glacier. The last one thousand
feet of this descent especially retpiired g^reat care with
our heavy packs.

From the pass we kept to the left following the
stream until we reached the falls, when we crossed
it and continued down until we could get on
to the snow that filled the lower part of the gully. The
Geikie Glacier is about a quarter of a mile wide where
we reached it and as the crevasses were all open it was
soon crossed. By this time we were perfectly willing
to camp, and climbing the sliding stones we descended
into the corner formed by the moraines of the Geikie
and Dawson Glaciers, where we were perfectly pro-
tected from the cold winds and fuel and water were
abundant. Later in the season we found our spring dry
and were obliged to bring w^ater from the stream above.
Soup, flapjacks, bacon and tea soon made us feel glad
that we were alive.

In the morning we ascended Mt. Fox by follow-
ing the Dawson Moraine to where it turns sharply to
the left, then straight up and over the cliffs; thence to
the left over loose stone to the snowfield w^hich was
crossed to the rocks and the summit was easily attained.
The drop into the Beaver Valley was very impressive,
and the view, as from all the peaks in this section,
magnificent.

A day was spent in following the Geikie Glacier
to the upper ice-fall, a trip which we advise all to make,
as it is over the finest glacier in all the region. While
drinking from a stream on this glacier we were sur-
prised to see the ice crack for a long distance each
way and our water disappear far beneath us.

Our next expedition was across the Dawson and
Donkin Glaciers to Donkin Pass. The crevasses were
easily avoided, but a large bergschrund was encounter-

c ■*.

Beyond the Asulkan 39

ed at the final rocks. A way into it was made but the
opposing wall of snow was 12 feet high and absolute-
ly perpendicular. A remark by one of the party that it
looked easy started us at it and by using all the ice
axes for steps one of us surmounted it and let down the
rope. Then it was over steep ice slopes to the left-hand
end of the big overhanging cornice and over that to
the summit. Here we saw three mountam goat feed-
ing. The weather had been promising to give us a
storm and we were soon being pounded by hailstones
that sent us to the shelter of the rocks. As there was
no prospect of being able to do more that day we look-
ed for an easier route down, and going to the east
avoided most of the ice, reaching the bergschrund where
two heavy sheets of ice projected just right for our use.
We cut steps in the lower one and hand holes in the
upper, and making our way carefully along with
occasional glances into the blue caverns beneath us, reach-
ed the base of a huge snow-ball which had fallen from
above. Up this we cut steps and from the top of it we
jumped to the glacier below and hurried to camp in a
pouring rain.

The next morning was fine so we looked for a new
way to ascend Mt. Donkin, as having already made
Donkin Pass we did not care for that route. We
therefore went up the Dawson Moraine, turned to the
right and crossed the Dawson Glacier at the first op-
portunity: thence directly to the summit of the ridge
some distance north of the survey station "Donkin
North." The ridge reminds one of the Abbott, but is
so narrow in one place that we straddled it and work-
ed ourselves along. As soon as we could we descended
to the glacier on the west, crossed it to the south and
made the ascent over the big stones of the western slope.
The view in every direction is glorious. It may be
noted that the photograph in Mr. Wheeler's Selkirk
Range, p. 96, is from here and not from Donkin Pass,

40 Liiiui(i/iiii .tijuiic journal.

as labeled, and thai there are many other directions in
which the scenery is equally grand. The climb offers
no ditiiculties and is alone worth the trip to Fish Creek.
Our provisions were now getting low and before
going for more it was voted to get up early for once
and climb Mt. Dawson. The day began with mists
over all the high peaks. No trouble was experienced
in reaching the amphitheatre and, as the bergschrund
was in good condition, we attacked the wall at the
easiest point. At first it was over wet and sliding shale,
then over loose stone to the summit. From here we
followed the arete, finding a small camp axe, no doubt
lost by the Austrian climber,* whose record-breaking
time table is given in the Glacier House book. We had
a little step-cutting in ice and some of the snow-bridges
were longer than was entirely pleasant, but we safely
reached the rounded pile of shale between Selwyn and
Dawson, where we lunched and waited in vain for the
clouds on the latter to disappear. The sun was shining
on Selwyn so it was decided that a view was better than
getting loo ft. higher without one. We therefore crept
along the wall of rock and across the big cornice until
the broken slabs of Selwyn were reached. Here one
of us went directl}- to the summit and the others went
down some distance by the side of the first couloir to
ascertain if a descent to the Deville Glacier was possible.
The gully was then crossed and the summit reached over
the long slope of loose rock and slabs that extends from
the glacier to the top. The view was good in every
direction, although Mt. Dawson remained in mist.
After leaving our records and making photographs w^e
went down to the Deville Glacier. Crossing the large
bergschrund and keeping to the right, we followed the
Bishops Glacier until we were below Donkin Pass.
Here we found our three goats feeding along the
moraine. When they saw us they climbed over the

*Edward Franzelin, Bruneck, Tj'iol, Austria.

Beyond the Asulkan 41

rocks of Mt. Dawson in a way that made us envious.
We crossed the pass and reached camp by our last route,
satisfied that we were not yet "clean gone to flesh pots
and effeminacy." for we had in one day, \vithout guides,
climbed Mt. Selwyn and walked entirely around Mt.
Daw^son. This is also a trip that we strongly recom-
mend for its great interest and beauty.

The next day we made our tent snug and returned
to the Glacier House for food. Mr. Palmer, still need-
ing exercise, ran up Sir Donald one morning with Ed-
ward Feuz, Sr. Mr. Butters and the writer, having
made the ascent a few days before, were quite willing
to enjoy a little rest. The third day w^e filled our packs
and returned to our tent.

The next morning, as we started to Donkin Pass
with all our things, we found our loads to be 50 lb.
each. The bergschrund was in better condition, but the
300 feet of slippery, sliding rocks were made an inch at
a time and a long rest was taken at the summit.

We then went down to the valley, crossed the snout
of the Bishops Glacier and soon came to the Huber,
Topham and Foster camp of 1890. There was still a
can of corned beef, W'hich we found later to be perfectly
good after its eighteen years exposure to Selkirk weather.
Their iron frying pan, though rusty, was yet service-
able, and we appropriated it so that two might fry flap-
jacks and give us more time for sleep. There was no
water here so we went 500 ft. lower and camped in a
fine little meadow.

Mt. Cyprian, First Ascent.

The second day we crossed the Bishops Range,
1500 feet above our camp, descended the Black Glacier
and looked for a route up Cyprian. It was soon
seen that if we could surmount the first belt of clififs
the mountain was ours. For a long time no way was
discovered except to begin the ascent some distance to

42 Canadian Alf^inr Journal.

the west, try to reach tlie ridc^e and make a descent into
tlie col. As we were turnins^ towards camp Mr. Palmer
luckily saw a ledge leading upwards and after a hasty
examination with our glasses, we decided to try it. In
the morning we reached a point some 60 ft. below this
ledge, which could be attained through a sloping
chimney or around and up a smooth gully. Putting on
the rope so that there might be some limit to a slip, one
of us worked slowly up the gully as far as the rope per-
mitted, and as there was no place to stop a request was
made to have an ice axe tied to the end of the rope.
This was carefully drawn up, a firm hold obtained with
it in the rocks above, and a standing place reached.
From here a gully was crossed and a ledge found lead-
ing down to the chimney. Then the rope was lowered
and the others came up. After clearing the chimney of
loose rocks it was found to be a good route, although
it was necessary to ascend upon one's back, as the hand
holes were all upon the upper side. The ledge seen the
day before was now easily reached and an interesting
scramble over rather smooth ledges and some loose
rocks brought us to the col on the west and thence over
big block to the summit.

There was no sign that any one had ever been
there, so we built a stone man and left our records. The
actual summit is not visible from Donkin Pass, so our
mountain is not to be seen from that point. The pre-
cipices on the south overhang and stones rolled over did
not touch until they struck the slopes above the Black
Glacier. Mt. Augustine, 50 ft. higher, was separated
from us by a deep chasm and offers a fine climb.
Cyprian is more difficult than Selwyn, but when the
rocks are dry it can easily be done by anyone w'ho has
had a little experience. The ascent can, the waiter thinks,
be made in two other w-ays, but our route certainly is
the most attractive one. It will be hard to find a finer
climb.

w E
2 "

Beyond the Asulkan ' 43

Mts. Wheeler and Kilpatrick.

We went up the Bishops Glacier and over the De-
ville Neve to the col between Wheeler and Kilpatrick
and along the arete to the summit of Wheeler. There
is no real climbing by this route, but the view is of the
wildest grandeur. The stone man was in bad condition
and we built a new one a little to the north. We re-
turned by the same route, and the long tramp over the
snow was so tiresome that it was lo o'clock the next
morning before we left the tent. We then went over to
the Black Glacier and up the glaciers and snow-fields
to the col on the west of Kilpatrick. The crevasses on
the slopes are immense and the snow-fall of the different
years is plainly shown by the dark dividing lines. The
arete of Kilpatrick was not to be easily reached, and as
it was late we gave up the ascent. It can be made from
the col by going east over the small rock mountain pro-
jecting from the ice, or better by keeping well to the
left on the way up, thus reaching the arete to the east
of the rocks and avoiding the climb over them and the
cutting down the ice slopes on their eastern side.

With such constant climbing there was no difficulty
in follow^ing Abraham's rule No. 20, " Eat and drink as
much as possible," and a morning came when there was
nothing left after breakfast. So at 9 o'clock we packed
up our loads, now reduced to 25 lbs. each, and crossed
the two ranges between us and the railway. It was dark
as we left the Asulkan Glacier, and 9.30 p.m. when we
walked into the Glacier House. Without anything to
eat since breakfast, we had, for several hours, been
planning a dinner, and we soon captured the chef and
waiter and marched into the dining room, just as we
were, ordering sirloin steaks, eggs, and all good things.
After an hour or so these had disappeared, and the
"boys" of the party were willing to tighten their belts
and wait for breakfast. The " old man," however, had

44 Ccvtiid'nui .\lpi)ic Jouriinl.

only replaced the wear and tear incident to crossinc^ the
first ranjjc of mountains and asked the waiter to dujiii-
cate the orders. He soon returned and asked if we were
willine: to wait a little, as the chef was in bed. but would
get up if we said .so. He was invited to arise, and we
soon beoan another feast. It is hard to tell which has
left the most pleasant memories, this dinner, or the days
bevond the Asulkan.

Hozv to Reach Sir Smidford 45

HOW TO REACH MOUNT SIR SANDFORD.

By p. a. Carson.

Mount Sir Sandtorcl (elevation 11,634 feet), the
highest peak in the Selkirks, is at present the Mecca of
man)^ aspiring pilgrims in Canada. This magnificent
mountain, whose snow-capped summit rises over a
thousand feet above its neighbours, lies some twenty-
three miles in a north-westerly direction from Beaver-
mouth railway station, but these twenty-three miles re-
solve j:hemselves into many more before Sir Sandford
can be reached without the use of an aeroplane. The
mountain lies between two branches of Gold Creek, which
stream flows into Columbia River about twenty miles
below Beavermouth. Either of two routes may be taken
to reach the base, and it is a debated question which is
the better — by canoe down the Columbia and up Gold
Creek, or by pack trail up the North Branch of Six Mile
Creek. As canoes are more easily available in this
vicinity, it would seem at first that the water route is
the more practicable. The mouth of Gold Creek can
easily be reached in five or six hours, and that stream
can be ascended five or six miles by canoe. Thence it
is necessary to shoulder packs and push through the
rough valley of Gold Creek. On crossing Novelist Creek,
a branch of Gold Creek from the Northwest, it seems
advisable to ascend to timber line of Mt, Sandford
Junior, which is three miles east of the coveted summit,
and in reality is part of the same mountain. Now the
disadvantage of the canoe route is evident. The peak
of Sir Sandford is several miles away, and the climbers
are on the north-easterly slope of the mountain, from
which direction I am sure the ascent would be most
arduous, if not impossible.

46 Canadian Alf^inc Journal.

The route via Six Mile Creek can be made either
with horses or on foot. Or. Shaw and Mr. Reuben
Shaw, in Aui^ust. U)o8. made a reconnaissance of Mt.
Sir Sandford. travelhnj^ by this route on foot, with fairly
heavy packs. During the latter part of the same month,
I made the trip into this district with horses, which had
to be shipped to Six Mile Creek by rail, as there is no
trail leading to it from either direction. From the siding
at Six Mile Creek (elevation 2600 feet), we ascended a
long ridge, covered with briilc and windfall, which lies
between Beaver River and the North Branch of Six
Mile Creek. After a steady pull of nearly three hours
we made three miles, and attained an elevation of 6,000
feet, whence the going was comparatively easy through
the sparse timber of this high altitude. We advanced
north-westerly another three miles to two small alpine
lakes forming the head-waters of a stream flowing easterly
into the Columbia. Continuing in the same direction,
we went through a pass at timber-line, and ascended to
" The Esplanade," a long ridge level as a board walk,
on the westerly slope of Cupola Mountain and the Espla-
nade Range. To the west tHe North Branch of Six Mile
Creek lay several thousand feet below, while beyond rose
some of the most magnificent peaks of the Selkirks, Mts.
Iconoclast, Sorcerer, Seraph, Cherub, Sonata and Sym-
phony. Advance was continued along the Esplanade,
and a gradual descent made to the headwaters of the
North Branch of Six Mile Creek, when we crossed
through a narrow snow pass and reached the head of
Spinster Creek tiowing northerly into Gold Creek. From
this pass the first good view of Mt. Sandford is obtained.
We advanced for about a mile from the pass, dropping
down several hundred feet, and pitched camp beside a
beautiful alpine lake, Sunbeam lake. The total distance
traversed from the railway was a little over twelve miles,
and by getting an early start with light packs it can be
made in one day. This is as far as horses can be taken

Ciiisoi. I'hol.

SIX MII^H CRKKK PASS.
On road to Mt. Sir Sandford.

P. A. Caniin. I'lioto.

MT. SIR SANDFORD.
From Summit of :\It. Sonata, Altitude 9500 Feet.

Hoiv to Reach Sir Sandford 47

conveniently, and the lake is a beautiful spo< for a per-
manent camp. The rest of the journey must be accom-
plished on foot. By dropping over the timbered ridge
to the west of the lake, then over a range of low moun-
tains lying between Spinster Creek and Bachelor Creek,
the valley of Gold Creek can be reached in five hours,
even with heavy packs. Before descending into the
vallev an excellent view of Sir Sandford is obtained, and
a tentative plan of campaign may be mapped out. It is
very desirable to strike Gold Creek just below where
Bachelor Creek enters it from the south, for here there
is a small island, and no difficulty should be encountered
in crossing the two channels by means of felled trees,
although the creek is a rapid torrent. From this point
Dr. Shaw advanced up the rough valley of Gold Creek,
but I would advise ascending to timber-line in a north-
westerly direction, where bivouac can be made at a con-
venient point for making the final attack on the peak,
now only two miles away.

I have viewed Mt. Sir Sandford from three sides,
south, east and north. The south-west and north-east
slopes are very steep, and seem almost impracticable.
The north-west slope of the main peak is a gradual one,
but it is too far away for convenience. The north-
easterly ridge of the main peak, on viewing it from the
south-east, looks almost precipitous, but from the direc-
tion of Bush River it can be seen to have a slope not
greater than 45 degrees. The photograph illustrating
this article was taken at a distance of four miles from
the summit of Mt. Sonata (9500 feet), being the moun-
tain immediately south of Sir Sandford. The white out-
line of the south-easterly ridge is distinctly visible. If
one can successfully cross the glaciers and ridges to this
south-easterly ridge no great difficulty should be found
in conquering Sir Sandford. And all honor to those who
achieve the victory!

48 Cumuiiaii Aipiiu- JckiiuiI.

Regarding the time necessary to make the trip and
ascent from the railway. I should say that with no time
lost through unfavorable weather or unforeseen circum-
stances, it could be done in se\cn days. At the end of
the second day the main stream of (jold Creek can be
reached and crossed, and camp made at timber-line on
the third day. Allowing a day for reconnoitering a
route to the main peak, the ascent could be accomplished
on the fifth day, Ijack to Sunbeam Lake on the sixth
(lav, and to the railway on the seventh. Provisions
should be taken, however, for at least ten days. The
attempt on Mt. Sir Sandford should be made between
the 15th of July and the 21st of August, as about the
latter date a heavy rain, with snow on the mountains,
generally falls in this locality.

a^^

ScALt Or M ILE-S

MiTCHtLL 1906

ROUTE OVER GLACIERS AND SNOW DOME

Over Asidkan Snow Dome 49

OVER THE CORNICE OF ASULKAN
SNOW DOME.

By C. H. Mitchell.

All of US had, in the previous five days of the
Rogers Pass Camp, been up either Rogers, Hermit or
Sir Donald, with their moraines, rockfalls, couloirs,
aretes and chimneys. The ice and snow work on these
climbs had not left as vivid impressions as did the rock
work, and if we were to make one more ascent before
the close of camp, a lasting impression of a real day on
glacier and neve seemed the thing most to be hoped for.

It was with this hope that two of us planned a route
to fulfil these conditions, a route different from those any
of the previous climbing parties had taken, and the genial
President was asked for his sanction and advice. It
came slowly. It was a long trip — a very long trip; it
was arduous; there were only to be active, strong
climbers; it might be dangerous; and there were posi-
tively to be no ladies.

But the approval came and the personnel was ar-
ranged, and — good! we were to have Hector Wheeler
as our guide with a 120 ft. rope, and we were to sleep
Sunday night at the Asulkan Camp, that which had been
made in the valley at the foot of the glacier, and on
Monday we were to do the turn, coming straight "home"
to the Main Camp at night — and those who knew, said
we would most surely be late.

It had been a peaceful Sunday at the Main Camp —
a bright, quiet day with the stately white clouds floating
high above the peaks and the silent places on the moun-
tain sides listening for the far away echoes of the

50 Canadiiui Alpiiic Journal.

valley. The members of our glacier party slowly broke
away from the camp during the afternoon, rambling
down to the Glacier House, there to dine perhaps, and
on up at their leisure to the Asulkan camp.

Eight-thirty p.m. found the party assembled at the
two little tents by the brookside shaddowed by cedar
trees. One of the party had been carefully instructed
as to the whereabouts of the camp, and for fear he
might go astray in the twilight a barricade was con-
structed across the trail at the "turn in." But who,
familiar with Canadian outdoor life, could have mistaken
the far away signal up the valley, where a thin, blue curl
of smoke rose above the dark green tree tops? Any
one could have guessed it was the mosquito smudge.

The forefoot of the Asulkan Glacier lay three hun-
dred yards distant and the hollow murmur of its water
was our July night's lullaby, and a quick rub down in its
icy waters proved a welcome sleep inducer. Not that
any inducement was needed, for it seemed but a few
minutes, after outdoor things were snug for the night,
before all the party had gotten under its blankets with
the usual accompaniments of grunts and smothered in-
terrogations as to the whereabouts of sundry articles
laid aside in the darkness. He who has even once slept
in a bell tent with six other fellows on a dark mosquitoey
night, can readily appreciate the sensation and the hu-
mour of it, and it can be safely affirmed that the pre-
slumbering sotto voce ejaculations, grunts and mutter-
ings of a tented group of gentlemen tenderfeet from the
plains and effete civilization are quite the same the world
over.

Were you ever entrusted with waking a camp at
any morning hour before four o'clock? And did you
ever make the mistake of rousing the whole tent an hour
too soon because in the half light your watch deceived
you? They were not quite all awake at two-thirty, but
three o'clock, at the latest, proved after all, none too

Over Asulkan Snow Dome 51

soon to be up, and at three-thirty a breakfast looked
awfully good and tasted better. One is afraid to tell
all the good things cook had ready, because it wouldn't
be believed for such a place and hour. Then there were
the packs of lunch to be prepared — meat and jam sand-
wiches and oranges and chocolate to be apportioned to
the three rucksacks; then the harnessing and the roll
call for the start and off we were, up the trail by the
brook with just the least glimmer of a four o'clock dawn
on the mountain tops.

That first hour did seem pretty steep, up the side-
hill pony trail on the slope of the shadow side of the
valley until a thousand feet above our night's camp, then
across to the right moraine for a steady upward boulder
climb and presently out we came on the ice itself for our
first halt. We had a chance now to look ourselves well
over with real blue ice for a relieving back-ground. We
felt ourselves, to see who we were that morning at five
o'clock on the famous Asulkan and it did seem hard to
realize our make up. First was Hector, with the Stetson
crest and mighty stride, then the chivalrous veteran
climber, representative of the English Alpine Club, then
a Winnipeg lawyer, a Toronto consulting engineer, a
Medicine Hat journalist, a Calgary civil engineer, and
lastly, as if to shepherd the flock, the minister from Leth-
bridge. How lightly we trod the long ice slope in that ex-
hilarating air; we will always remember it and it seemed
but an early w^alk to the crest of the glacier where, with
eager expectancy to look over, we arrived at seven o'clock
and earned a laconic assurance from Hector that
previous days, parties on the Asulkan trip had thought
well of their efforts to arrive by ten o'clock.

But our day was just begun. We lingered a short
while spellbound by the panorama which lay before us
glistening in the morning sun ; the peaks tipped with rose
and the valleys still in blackness and, above all, the
silence. Fox, Selwyn, Feuz, Dawson, Hasler and

52 Cimcuiian Alpine Journal.

Michel Peaks, all above 10,000 ft. stood straight
before us with Geikie Glacier and Creek before and
Donkin and its glacier to our right. We could count
opposite us, three great glaciers and several minor ones.
Away beyond, to our far right, beautiful Purity stood
above her neighbors, the emblem of her name.

Now at 7.45 commenced the real climb and
we roped, passing as a start, around a bald cliff to the
east as a short cut for the ascent of "Snow Dome," our
first objective. This snowcap lies between the Asulkan
Crest and the Geikie Neve — ^back beyond the Illecillewaet
Neve — and is about 9,700 feet elevation. Hector said he
had not heard of its being climbed previously. It is
attractive as a climb in affording a variety of snow and
ice work with the added interest of a huge snow cor-
nice on the south side overlooking the Illecillewaet snow-
field. Up, up we went on the north face of the snow
pyramid. Our impression was that the snow slope was
dangerously steep, Hector said upwards of 60 degrees
in places, and were it not so early in the morning and
on the cool side, we might not have gone up without in-
cident. What a ceaseless plug, plug a steady climb on a
steep snow slope is; one looks down, if at all, with a
feeling of fitness to slide if forced to the opportunity,
and looks up with the hope that his guess is correct that
he can come dow^n some other route than this.

Just as you round the shoulder of the dome at the
crest of a snow-capped peak is probably the most in-
teresting moment of the ascent. The expectancy of the
panorama to be unfolded when, in a few minutes, you
actually reach the top and can look over beyond, lends
a quickening step and perhaps sometimes a careless
hurry. On Snow Dome we had this thrill, but it was
tempered with the knowledge that the opposite side was
corniced and our steps at the crest were wary. On top
a cold east wind was blowing and, notwithstanding the
heat of the ascent — it was by now ten o'clock — we

Over Asulkan Snow Dome 53

found our rope quickly freezing and we got inside all
the spare clothing we had. We ate our lunch with con-
tentment and relish ; were we not set high in the midst
of a huge circle of famous peaks, the giants of the Sel-
kirks, and were we not in sight of eight as famous
glaciers, not to speak of the many smaller blue masses
clinging over the steep cliffs? And in front of us lay
the Illecillewaet Glacier and Neve.

After the last sandwich had been taken, there seem-
ed to come that quickening thrill which brought the
thought of the descent. A cornice! "Going over cor-
nices is one of the most dangerous feats of mountain
climbing," we had read on Sunday in George Abraham's
"Complete Mountaineer," and we had seen with our
glasses that the south face was corniced clear from the
Geikie Crest to the great punch bowl hollow at Lookout.
Could we get over, across or through ? The first move
was downwards towards Lookout, feeling for a suitable
chance. The first time that Hector made a reconnaisance
over the edge, we really began to think of our responsi-
bilities as we anchored ourselves and the rope in a long
line back over the crest, while he, on about forty feet
of clear rope, crawled and squirmed out to the edge to
look over. In the later similar operations, we gradually
learned to let out the slack rope and advance it with cau-
tion ready for the sudden plunge if it came with the
breaking of the cornice.

Down and back we trudged and clambered along the
snow crest, feeling for the hidden place we hoped was
there to be found. Once away down near the Lookout
we got for a few minutes on real rock while we ex-
amined the chances for following around the cliff of
the bowl of the neve. Then, back up the snow rigde
again, making trial after trial, when suddenly. Hector's
hand shot up as he hung over the slope, which told us
he had found a place where for about thirty feet the

54 Catnuiiau Alpine Journal.

cornice had broken away and we could probably clamber
down the snow face. We could — and did. It was an
exciting operation, not without danger. There was up-
wards of forty feet of almost sheer snow face to be
descended to arrive at the top of the sloping snow-talus
which lay at an angle of probably 65 degrees.

Over we went, one at a time, working down the
face, using footholds Hector had cut on his first trial
trip down, and the rest holding and anchoring the rope
above. The first two down carried the four cameras of
the party and secured photos of the others coming
over. The cornice in breaking, had left a good mass of
fairly level snow at one side where we gradually as-
sembled awaiting the downcoming of Hector who was
last. We wondered how he would do it — would he
leave his ice axe at the top, as an anchor for the running
rope? Nothing so romantic did he do; he merely slid
down the face with the axe and rope just about as one
would slide down the side of a brick business block from
the eaves and, to our amazement, landed on his two feet
in the snow with an imperturbable smile.

So we got over, and with an almost fond farewell,
strode down the easy side slope to the lower levels and
out on to the neve, a thousand feet below. A short look
back showed the alpine object lesson, that things fre-
quentl}^ look more impossible from afar off than they
really are. Then began the long trudge across the neve
en route for Terminal Peak, the southerly shoulder
of Sir Donald. We had hoped to climb this shoulder
as part of our long day's work and would have done so,
but, that when we arrived below it after our four-mile
tramp across the snow-field, we were chagrined to find
a sudden rain and mist come on, beginning to danger-
ously shroud it and the adjoining peaks and, discretion
being the better part, we reluctantly gave it up and
promptly started downwards and homewards.

Over Asulkan Snozv Dome 55

Threading our way along the crevasses and danger
spots of the Illecillewaet Glacier we eventually brought
up at Perley Rock, 7900 ft., and had our first drink of
water for many hours. We unroped here at 3.45
p.m., and were surprised to find that we had been con-
stantly on the rope since 7.45 a.m. — eight hours.
By this time it was raining hard and steadily and we
lost no time in clambering and glissading down the
steep snow slopes below Perley Rock, some fifteen hun-
dred feet to the right moraine near the foot of the
glacier. Here, in order to save time, instead of strug-
gling down through the gigantic boulders, we under-
took to cross the face of the timbered slope to the couloir
below Sir Donald, but this was "out of the frying pan
into the fire." It was an hour longer — it seemed five —
and ten times wetter in the underbrush, until finally in
desperation we waded down a small torrent bed which
was momentarily becoming more swollen and, crossing
at the junction of the large stream, finally got on to a
pony trail, arriving at Glacier House, three miles distant,
at 6.45 o'clock, with still three miles more to the home
camp.

We could be absolutely no wetter. We might have
been more hungry and more tired, but we could not
have been more satisfied or happier than when, at eight
o'clock we arrived in the main camp at Rogers Pass
after a continuous sixteen hours of going from the
Asulkan Camp in the early morning, over ten hours
being on ice and snow.

56 Canadian Alpine Journal.

SCIENTIFIC SECTION.

MODERN GLACIERS.

By Wm. S. Vaux.

[Authorized reprint from Vol. XXIV. No. 3 (July. 1907), of the Copyrighted
Proceedings of the Engineers' Club of Piiiladelpia.]

The Study of glaciers, including their present
changes and the part they have taken in fashioning the
earth's surface, may be broadly divided under two great
heads. One deals almost exclusively with the science of
geology, and embraces a consideration of changes in the
earth brought about by the activity of glaciers which
may have ceased to exist ages ago. The other treats
of glaciers as they are found to-day, the properties of
ice, the laws which govern formation, flow, and dissi-
pation, and deals with physics and physical laws.

The second of these great branches will largely
occupy attention in the present paper in explaining what
a glacier is, illustrating its principal characteristics, and
giving a brief summary of the history of glacier investi-
gation. Lastly, the plan of observation on some of the
glaciers on our own continent will be explained by which
these movements and changes have been recorded, and
some of the laws of glacier action again applied to new
examples.

The popular conception of ice as a hard, unyield-
ing substance is in fact totally wrong. Ice is really
viscid, and will slowly yield to pressure if not intense
enough to rupture it, but will crack and split if the
pressure is suddenly applied or its direction changed.

Modern Glaciers 57

This is the case in compression, but the yielding to ten-
sion is very small, and is followed by a more or less
complete rupture. Indeed, a mass of ice may be com-
pared with tar, which, though solid and firm, is brittle un-
der tension, but plastic under compression, and will
change its form until the pressure is relieved. This
property of ice may be considered the fundamental one
which permits masses at high altitudes to assume the
flow of a river and drain away into the warmer valleys
below.

In general, it may be said that a glacier is a mass
or stream of ice formed in regions of perennial frost
from compacted snow, which moves slowly downward
in a rnanner analogous to a river over slopes and through
valleys until it melts away, owing to higher temperature
at the lower levels, breaks off in the form of icebergs
on the border of the sea, or avalanches over cliffs to the
valley below.

It is only under favorable conditions that glaciers
are formed — an average temperature below 32° F., a
high yearly precipitation, and a climate which allows
an accumulation of snow in excess of the amount melted,
evaporated, or blown away. Outside the Arctic regions
these conditions are found only at high elevations, and
it is for this reason that with high mountain ranges and
rugged peaks one mostly associates snow-field, glacier,
and moraine.

Glaciers may be divided according to three principal
types : Alpine, where the snow is at a considerable
elevation on a mountain side, and the stream flows
through a valley to the open slopes below. This type is
the most widely known, and was first studied in the
Swiss Alps, where the name was applied. Piedmont,
where several alpine glaciers unite and spread out over
the adjacent valley or plain; and Continental, where vast
areas, or even entire continents, are covered. Examples
of the third type are at present to be found only in the

58 Ca)uuiia)i Alpine Journal.

Arctic and Antarctic reg^ions. but in past ages they were
nKMC numerous and extended; the great ice caps over
Nortli America being excellent examples. It is with
the alpine and piedmont types thai we shall deal in the
present discussion, as apart from being more readily ac-
cessible, they exhibit the glacier characteristics which
are to be illustrated.

A glacier being a river of ice, its source is at a high
elevation where snow falls throughout the year, and for
a large portion of the time the temperature is below
freezing. There being no melting, the snow becomes
deeper and deeper and an indefinite accumulation would
in time take place, were it not that pressure from the
increasing load above and many changes of temperature
close to the freezing-point begin the direct transforma-
tion of snow to ice without melting of the whole mass.
Then begins the slow and constant motion or flow to
the lower levels. More snow falls on the surface above,
forming a vast field resting on the mountain-side, while
below is a mass of solid ice — the birth of the glacier.
This snow-covered portion is known as the accumulator
or neve. Following the course of the ice-stream, a point
is reached where owing to increased temperatures and
lower elevation the accumulations of snow on the sur-
face melt before a large amount has collected, uncover-
ing the stream of solid ice, which becomes visible, and
here the dry glacier begins. Below the snow line to the
tongue or snout where the glacier melts away there is
surface melting, and the phenomena of ice action may
be studied in full view. This lower portion is known as
the dry glacier or dissipator.

Glaciers may be simple or compound as they drain
one neve into one valley, or are made up of a number of
individual streams each filling a separate valley with a
common snow-fields. Conversely, several neves may be
drained by glaciers in valleys which finally join and form
one ice-stream.

I'aux. Photo.

PIRATE No. 1.— AVAI^ANCHK, VICTORIA GI,ACIER.
The Ice is here falling 2500 feet and forming a Secoiidarv Glacier below.

Vaux, Pholo.

PI.ATE No. 2.— CRRVASSKS, IIJ,^:CII,I,E^VAKT OI^ACIER.

Modern Glaciers 59

The crystalline structure of the ice composing a
glacier is very different from that frozen in the ordinary
way. The snow falling at high altitudes is usually of a
hard spherical form, similar to hail, which is compacted
together by pressure and slight temperature changes till
it assumes a banded or stratified form of solid ice with
a peculiar grain and structure which instantly dis-
tinguish it from lake or river ice. Near the tongue the
grains become larger, but are crushed together and de-
formed as in a mass of marble.

The snow when it first falls exhibits no bands or
stratification. Alternate melting and freezing and the
deposit of dirt on the surface blown from cliffs form
stratified layers of clean, dirty opaque, and clear ice, the
bands of which dip at an ever-increasing angle as it des-
cends. Near the tongue these bands become obliterated,
the ice being of an even clear texture, interspersed with
lines of dirt or faults formed by cracks in the ice which
have afterward closed.

The beautiful coloring of pure glacier ice is univer-
sally noted, and also peculiar bandings of the clearer
sections, which do not appear in the neve, but become
marked in the lower regions, and disappear before the
tongue is reached. These are known as blue bands, and
their formation has long been under investigation.
They are not equally marked at corresponding points in
different glaciers and their position and direction do not
appear to follow known laws. The suggestion of Prof.
Louis Agassiz, that they are formed as a result of
horizontal pressure in the ice similar to cleavage in slate,
has been accepted for many years. Recently theories
have been advanced to prove that they are analogous to
strata in the ice, or that they are the result of a modifica-
tion in the neve stratification.

Above the neve line, owing to absence of melting,
the tendency is for the ice to become thicker and to bury
rock or other substances which may rest on the surface.

60 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Below this line the conditions are reversed; melting
takes place which constantly removes the upper layers
of ice. and the lowing motion below gradually brings
these buried substances to the surface. It is for this
reason that the upper slopes of glaciers are generally
white and clean, while below they are often buried deep
in debris.

Two of the most striking characteristics of glaciers
are crevesses and moraines. Owing to the impossibility
of ice yielding to tension except in a very limited de-
gree, some provision must be made for uneven flow.

As the glacier flows over the rock-bed or reaches
a space of increased incline, tension is exerted in the ice
which causes a rupture. The cracks, but a hairbreadth
wide at first, are enlarged by melting and changes of
slope, till they may be hundreds of feet in length and
many feet deep and broad. These are known as crevasses
(Plate 2), and they are formed in the partially con-
solidated snow% in the ice beneath the snow, or in the
dry glacier itself. Early in the season the crevasses
are filled with snow, which later melts, and snow-bridges
are formed. These are at first strong and solid, but soon
melt away from below and form treacherous pitfalls for
the explorer. Crevasses may run in any direction, and
often form a maze on the ice surface through which it
is hard to thread a way, and where the greatest caution
is necessary. When these cracks occur at angles to
each other pannicles of ice are formed. Melting takes
place on the four sides thus exposed to the air, and seracs
are formed, named from a fancied resemblance to clotted
cream. These often assume the most fantastic shapes
after the erosion of wind and water has worn them away.
(Plates).

Passing over an uneven bed the body of the glacier
is first bent in one direction and then in the other. When
the slope increases great openings are formed across the
glacier which are known as transverse crevasses, as they

ymix. Photo.

PUATE No. 3.-SERACS, II<I,ECII,I,EWAKT GLACIER.

M*-

yaitx. Photo.

PIRATE No. 4.-GI.ACIER TABI^E, VICTORIA GLACIER.

Modern Glaciers 61

usually occur nearly at right angles to the direction of
flow. The ice at this point may form in great steps with
crevasses between them. This is known as the ice fall.

When the slope is almost constant no crevasses are
formed from this cause, but the more rapid flow at the
centre than at the sides causes a stretching at this point
and marginal crevasses result.

Again, crevasses may be found where a glacier after
passing through a narrow defile spreads out into a
wider space which allows it to expand laterally with a
corresponding decrease in motion. The pressure of the
ice behind produces a tension in the ice which forms
longitudinal crevasses.

Between the main stream of the glacier and the
bordering cliffs deep and broad openings similar to cre-
vasses are almost always found. These are known as
bergschrunds or mountain crevasses, and they may occur
close to the rocky cliffs or several rods distant, a por-
tion of the neve being closely attached to the rock wall.

At times narrow cracks or even large crevasses are
filled with water which freezes and forms a solid mass.
They are very noticeable on the dry glacier and are
known as dykes. The ice so frozen is often composed
of long crystals the axis of which is at right angles
to the plane of the crack, or may be of the glacier
form after having been subjected to pressure.

The walls of crevasses where there has not been
much melting are often of the most exquisite turquoise
blue, which deepens to black in the farthest depths.
Frequently icicles are formed which hang row on row
with silver-white or blue bands and wreaths. When
the sunlight enters one of these chasms, every point and
drop reflects the light, while deep pools of water make
it seem like an enchanted fairyland. It has been said
that only the unfathomable sea rivals this exquisite
coloring and setting.

62 Canadian Alpine Journal.

While not strictly connected with our suhject, a
peculiar phenomenon often noticed on the higher neves
is red snoiK'. This is. in fact, a vegetable growth in the
snow itself, which at times covers many acres of surface.
It is often covered with a layer of fresh fallen snow and
its presence is not suspected until foot-marks or the
scraping of the ice-axe uncover it. There are said to
be several species, each with its own locality and limits.

The transporting iKjwer of glaciers, at one time
seriously doubted, is now universally accepted. The im-
mense amount of rock deposited in valleys and plains
bears witness to the part played in the past, while the
masses carried, polished, and ground at the present time
show how the work of ages has been accomplished. All
glacier-transported material is known under the head
of moraine. There are two main divisions, indicating
whether the material is fixed or is changing with the
motion of the ice, and these are again classified according
to their position relative to the glacier. If at the tongue,
they are known as terminal; at the side, lateral or mar-
ginal; beneath, sub-glacial or ground; while two lateral
moraines coming together when ice-streams join and
flow as one are known as medial moraines. The amount
of transported material varies greatly, some glaciers be-
ing almost free, and others so covered that they resemble
plowed fields. The proximity of disintegrating cliffs or
rocky walls from which masses break off produces mo-
raines, while an absence of such cliffs forms a clean
glacier, the tongue of which may not be buried. Moraines
are often of great height and length, but generally of a
triangular cross-section ending in a ridge with the
masses of rock just at the angle of repose. Often they
appear to be solid, but really rest on a stagnant core of
ice which gradually wastes away, and the slow shrinking
starts masses of rock and dust which avalanche down the
sides. Large isolated rocks or boidders are usually
found resting on the surface of the ice, firmly fixed on

I'l.ATK No. n.-SAND CONK, VICTORIA C.I^ACIKR

I'aH.r. Photo.

PLATK (i.— MOri.IN. ILI.ECIIJ.EWAKT C.l.ACIKR.

Modern Glaciers 63

the crest of moraines or resting entirely apart from the
other debris in the valley bottom below. These are
known as erratics, and they often show the results of
enormous pressure by their polished and grooved sur-
faces. At times the rock in place is scratched and polish-
ed, or worn off in mounds which fancifully resemble
the backs of sheep, and are accordingly known as roches
moutonnees.

Moraine and crevasse make possible many minor
glacier phenomena. A bed of moraine over a foot thick
acts as a blanket and protects the ice below from the
sun's rays. Thus many moraines are really of ice with
a coating of rock. A large rock protecting the ice below
while the surrounding surface is melted away rises on
a pier until it may reach a height of several feet. Al-
ways tipping to the south, the rock finally falls, owing
to the melting away of the pillar below, and the process
is repeated. These are known as glacier tables. (Plate
4). When the rock is small the reverse is the case, and
it sinks into a hole filled with water melted by the heat
absorbed. A mass of sand collected at the foot of a
water-fall in the ice gradually comes to the surface and
a sand cone is formed, of a thin coating of sand and a core
of ice. (Plate 5.)

The ice meltings find a way to the depths of the
glacier through crevasses, but at more level portions,
where there are no openings, small streams collect which
flow on the surface until a crevasse is reached. These
streams may assume considerable proportions; canyons
are formed with potholes and caverns through which
water rushes with great force owing to the smooth sides.
At a crevasse the water leaps down in a moulin, or
perhaps a hole carries it to the depths below. (Plate
6.) The water melted from the glacier collects in
streams below the ice and flows on the ground moraine
till it issues at or near the tongue. Great caverns are
melted out as a result of the water or air currents, and

64 CanaJian Atpiuc Journal.

at llie point where the stream issues a beautiful ice arch
may be formed. (Plate ii.) In the spring these arches
are often of great size, but hiter in the season the ceihngs
fall in.

("ilacier water may be readily distinguished from
that melted from snow by its gray, mutldy character.
This is caused by the suspension of a large amount of
fine mud which has been ground from the rocks and
cliffs. In the course of the stream tiiis mud is deposited
in llat places, and gradually fills up the lakes which often
lie below glaciers. Further down the streams become
clear and lose this characteristic owing to the filtering
out of suspended material, but a small amount of mud
always remains, and its presence is said to cause the
vivid tints of the lakes, which when fed by glaciers often
rival in coloring the ice itself.

The flowing motion of glaciers already referred to
involves a most difficult problem in ice physics which
is not yet thoroughly solved. No few^er than nine
theories have been advanced to explain the phenomena
observed. It is not within the province of this paper to at-
tempt more than a brief description of phenomena, the
obscure problems of the causes which produce the
effects being left for those who desire to delve into
them. The observed facts, however, show that the
motion of a glacier resembles closely the flow of a river,
except that it is much slower and only observable by
the aid of instruments of precision.

As in a river, all portions do not move with the
same rapidity. The surface moves faster than the bed,
the centre than the sides, and where a bend in direction
is met, the concave side lags till the convex assumes
its proper place. Indeed, it may be said that no two
parts of a glacier travel with the same rapidity, for at a
broad, open space the rate is slow, while a narrow, deep
gorge accelerates the motion till the ice is broken into
rugged masses, owing to the enormous pressure exert-

Modern Glaciers 65

ed. Again, the surface melting snow below the neve
line tends to bring to lower portions to the surface, and
in the dissipator there is a gradual motion from the cen-
tre to the sides. In the upper sections of a glacier the
flow is least and increases to the neve line, where
theoretically it is a maximum, and then decreases to the
tongue. Where moraines and embedded rocks are not
present the rate of flow is greater than where the glacier
is heavily bedded in moraine or filled with rock.

These motions are constantly at work, but they do
not act with the same speed at all times. Higher tem-
perature may mean accelerated speed, and the summer
flow has been proved in certain cases to be more rapid
than the winter, and the day motion than the night,
though the causes of these changes are not as yet fully
understood. Over a series of years the rate of these
motions is found to vary, increasing for a time and then
decreasing, passing through many changes in the course
of a century.

Varying climate, precipitation, and rate of flow are
principal causes of glacier variation, which is now be-
ing investigated with great care. It is everywhere evi-
dent that in former times glaciers were of much greater
extent than at present, and that there has been a de-
crease and shrinkage for many years. Valleys below
glaciers, now covered with trees hundreds of years old,
were in former times the bed of moving ice which bore
down and deposited erratic and moraine. Lakes plowed
out by immense force show where the ice masses once
crushed together and then retreated and melted away.
These changes depend upon the rate of flow of the ice,
the amount supplied from the neve region, and the
quantity melted away at the tongue. If more ice is
supplied than is melted, the glacier advances; while if
the melting exceeds the supply, the glacier retreats.
Temperature, precipitation, and sunshine modify the
result, so that many factors are at work to determine

66 CattaJhin Alpine Journal.

whether a glacier advance or retreat. These changes
are independent of the daily and yearly variations,
though they appear to he the result of similar forces
acting over longer periods of time.

Careful ohservation extending over years has shown
that after a time of retreat the ice hegins to thicken in
the ncvc region, the rate of How quickens, and a great
wave of ice flows to the tongue, which advances over the
space formerly left bare. The glaciers in one locality
do not all change at the same time, but some may ad-
vance while others retreat. It is, however, believed that
the same cause in the ncvc is applied to all, but owing
to size, length, normal flow, and other conditions the
effect does not become apparent at the same time. Ad-
vances in many glaciers have been noted at periods of
about thirty-five years, and this interval is known as
"Bruckner's period," though it can as yet hardly be
considered as a fLxed rule of glacier change except from
theoretical considerations.

Prior to 1811 no general records of the variations
of glaciers are preserved. In 1812 there was a gen-
eral advance of all the glaciers of Switzerland, which
reached a maximum in 1825. This is the greatest
advance ever observed. A period of decrease then set
in, not marked or universal, which was followed by a
less decisive increase, which reached a maximum about
1850. Then followed a marked period of decrease,
and in 1870 all the glaciers were positively retreating.
From 1875 a new phase set in, certain glaciers began to
advance and others to retreat. This condition con-
tinued till 1894. when decrease became almost universal,
and has contmued more or less positive in character till
the present time.

An illustration of the apathy of thinking men in
the middle ages is show^n by their lack of interest in na-
tural phenomena. Roman engineers built roads through
Switzerland, traveled them for centuries, and bridged

Modern Glaciers 67

and crossed glacier streams and even glaciers themselves
with only the most remote references to their existence.
The history of glacier investigation extends back barely
more than two hundred years, for while Munster in 1544
and Schenckzer in 1707 advanced theories as to the
structure and movements of glaciers, their ideas were
crude and founded on wrong conceptions of actual
conditions. DeSaussure in 1803 published in his
"Voyages dans les Alpes" the first serious description of
glaciers, based upon his own observations and deductions.
At this time motion and variation were imperfectly un-
derstood, while until many years after it was thought
that glaciers existed only within the confines of the
Swiss Alps.

Charpentier in 184 1 published his studies on the
former great extension of the Rhone glacier from its
valleys into the plains beyond, and this work drew to the
attention of scientific men that problems of universal
interest in glacier action remained to be solved. Hugi
had lived in a hunt on the ice in order to study the mar-
velous forces which were at work, an account of which
he duly published. About this time Prof. Louis Agassiz,
who had been occupied with zoology, turned his atten-
tion to present glacier action as a means of determing
the past history of the earth. He saw that careful ob-
servation of present conditions would develop definite
general laws which would apply for all time, and he set
about to find the real nature of the movement of the
ice-stream which had previously been assumed by ob-
servation of masses moving along on the surface. To
him must be accredited the first scientific work in ob-
serving the movement of glaciers by means of stakes
driven in the ice. Surface melting was unintentionally
proved by all his stakes melting out of the ice and falling,
but he persevered,, living in a hut on the glacier, where
he received many scientific men as his guests. His
"Systeme Glaciaire," published in Paris in 1847, ^^-

68 CatKuiiiW Alpiuc Journal.

scrihcs in detail the work, and is a classic in the literature
of glacier investigation. As a guest of Agassiz, a
physicist and surveyor. Prof. J. D. Forbes, first made
the acquaintance of existing glaciers. He saw that with
instnunents of precision the work which Agassiz had
laid out could be performed in days instead of years,
and on the Mer de Glace he placed a row of stakes, and
a month later proved the motion of the ice, and that it
is greater at the centre than at the siiles, resembling the
flow of a river. With the subsequent bitter controversy
as to priority of discovery we have nothing to do, but
the laws laid down and the phenomena recorded at this
period stimulated an interest in glacier study which has
continued to the present day.

About this time Rendu, who had long been a stu-
dent of glacier action, published the results of his in-
vestigations in "Theorie des Glaciers de la Savoie," in
which he developed laws entirely independent of out-
side sources. The reason for motion and the real func-
tions of moraines formed at this time the active pro-
blems for discussion, and many theories were advanced
and argued, attributing glacier phenomena to different
causes. Tyndall and Croll each developed theories of
motion which attempted to reconcile observed facts with
know-n physical laws, but all pointed to the importance
of a systematic study of the subject with physical and
mathematical considerations always in mind. This im-
plied also a careful, painstaking observation of changes
as they took place and a record compiled of all the data
obtained. Prof. F. A. Forel, of Lausanne, realizing
the value of such investigations, published in 1881 a
memoir in which he laid dowm the fundamental laws of
glacier variation and appealed to those interested in the
subject to assist him in completing the records. In
August of 1894, under the leadership of the late Captain
Marshall Hall, the International Congress of Geology
appointed a committee to systematically collect data and

Modern Glaciers 69

record facts relating to glaciers and their changes. This
is known as the Commission International des Glaciers,
and for a decade has collected data from all parts of the
world and reduced it to a form for comparison. Bruck-
ner, Richter, Finsterwalder, Forel, Reid, Hess, Russell,
and many others have contributed to the general store
of knowledge, by observation on glaciers themselves,
deducting laws from the information received, or de-
veloping the mathematical considerations which are in-
timately associated. The systematic observation of over
one hundred glaciers, situated principally in Switzerland,
but distributed generally over the globe, will in time
provide the data from which correct ideas of glacier
phenomena may be deduced.

It must be borne in mind that the forces studied
have acted for untold ages, and that the contributions of
one observer or even one generation of observers taken
singly will form but a slender basis upon which to
weave ultimate results. Only by an intimate knowledge
of the physics of ice, the changes in climate, and the re-
sults which these changes have upon existing examples
will it be possible to correctly deduce the laws which
have taken such an important part in preparing the sur-
face of the earth for the habitation of man.

The foregoing outline of the characteristics of
glaciers and the way in which they have been studied
may serve as a prelude to a brief description of the con-
ditions which form great ice-streams in Alberta and
British Columbia, upon several of which measurements
have been made. While these glaciers do not compare
in size with those of Greenland, Iceland, and Alaska,
they may yet be taken as average examples of the alpine
type.

Excluding the territory which lies to the north of
the Arctic circle, all the principal glaciers of North
America lie within the great ranges of the Rocky

70 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Mountain cordillcra. These rani^^es. stretching from
south to north along the Pacific coast, are well located
for the formation of glacier streams on their western
slopes. Mountains such as Lyell. Hood, and Rainier
within the United States bear glaciers near their sum-
mits, but it is only to the north of the boundary with
Canada that the conditions become truly alpine and
glaciers exhibiting all the phenomena are to be found.
The course of the ocean currents in the Pacific and the
position of the mountain ranges near the coast are both
favorable to the formation of glaciers of great extent.
The Japan current, flowing north some hundreds of
miles from the coast of California, gradually approaches
the continent till the western shores of British Columbia
and Alaska are bathed by its warm waters. Warm
winds blowing eastward gather up the moisture and
carry it inland, where the Rocky Mountain cordillera
is crossed, here composed of four ranges — the Cascade,
Gold. Selkirk, and Rocky Mountain. Each succeeding
range from west to east is higher, and these moist, low-
lying clouds lose their moisture on the western slopes,
thus causing a heavy precipitation. This falls mostly
in the form of snow, and supplies the neves, which in
turn feed the innumerable glaciers of the district. Clouds
in higher strata pass above the highest ranges, and later
their moisture is deposited on the great wheat plains of
Alberta and Manitoba.

Until the completion of the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way in 1885 the glaciers of this region were practically
unknown. Mackenzie in 1789, and Capt. John Palliser
in his expeditions of 1857-59, with their many branch
excursions under the leadership of Sir James Hector,
naturally kept mostly to the valley levels far below the
tongues of the largest glaciers, as their object was to
find an easy route for a wagon-road between the Pacific
and the plains to the east. But in order to meet the re-

Pl,ATK 7. — RUCK -K, ll,I,):CII,I,i;\VAKT (W.ACIHK I'ARTl.V HKDDKU IN ICK,

Jl'I.V n, 1887.
(Compare Plate 8.)

yaitx. Photo

PI.ATK 8.-ROCK 'K," II.I,ECILI.EWAET GI^ACIER. AlGrST, 1899. SHOWING

SHRINKAGE OF ICE.
(Compare Plate 7.)

Modern Glaciers 71

quirements of railway engineering mountain passes had
to be crossed, and thus glaciers which rival those of any
other section in interest were brought within easy reach.
The most accessible of these lie close to the main
line of the Canadian Pacific Railway at Glacier House,
a station about 500 miles east of the western terminus
at Vancouver. Several glaciers are within a short dis-
tance of this point, but the one most readily reached is
the Iilecillewaet, the tongue of which is but one and
one-half miles from the hotel. Prior to 1883, when the
pass bearing his name was discovered by Captain John
Rogers, the foot of man had probably never trod its
valleys, as the course was many miles from the usual
route, following down the Columbia River. During
railway construction the glacier was doubtless often
visited by those stationed on the work, but no records
were made until July 17, 1887, when our party, passing
through, roughly mapped the tongue and made a
photographic record of the conditions as they existed.
(Plate 7.) At that time the ice completely covered the
ground moraine as far as the ridge of boulders, among
which alder bushes were growing. The slope of the
ice at the tongue was very steep, and the proximity of
alder bushes of considerable age close to the border
proved that the ice had been in a maximum position for
many years. The next year (1888) the Rev. Wm. S.
Green spent some time in the district and noted that
the glacier had receded somewhat from the year before.
He daubed tar on boulders bordering the ice which are
marked "T.T.T." on the map, and made a rough de-
termination of the flow at a point above the tongue by
means of stakes drives into holes. After twelve days
a stake near the centre moved twenty feet, and at the
side seven feet. These daily movements are greater
than those recently recorded at similar locations when ~
the glacier is evidently retreating.

72 Canmiian Alpine Journal.

In 1894, when we again visited this glacier, it was
evident that retreat had taken place and changes occurred
which we were then at a loss to account for. Our interest
was again excited when in 1897 we found still greater
changes, which resulted in yearly visits since, including
the summer of 1906, and the preservation of careful
records of what is taking place. (Compare Plates 7
and 8.)

These may be divided under several heads:
"Recession and Advance"; "Rate of Flow"; "Topo-
graphical Maj)"'; and "Photographic Record."

In glaciers similar to the Illecillewaet the reces-
sion or advance of the tongue between two dates is a
simple matter to determine. Being almost free from
niorainal material, the tongue extends on an almost flat
ground moraine and melts away to a point. From year
to year this point moves to the right or to the left, but
its position being readily found, the distance to range
lines between marked rocks is easily obtained. The
selection of these range rocks is a matter of great im-
portance, for while the general tendency of the glacier
may be to retreat, the winter advance may be sufficient
to engulf the boulders and push them down to obliterate
the marks entirely. The rock marked "C" on the map*
has been used as a base from which to measure the
changes in this glacier since 1898, but in order that no
changes might take place in it a range line between
"B" and "D" just touched the tongue the same year,
and a careful comparison of angles at once makes any
alteration in the position of these boulders apparent.
Since 1898, and almost certainly since 1887, the glacier
has receded each year, but records are available only
since 1898. as shown in the following table: —

* The map here referred to was published with a paper
entitled " Glacier Observations," by George and William S.
Vaux, Jr., in 1907. See page 14S, Vol. 1, No. 1„ Canadian Alpine
Journal.

Modern Glaciers

Illecillewaet Glacier. — Recession of Tongue of Ice
from Rock " C."

Date of Observation

August 17, 1898.
July 29, 1899....
August 6, 1900..
August 5, 1901 . .
August 26, 1902.
August 25, 1903.
August 14, 1904.

July 25, 1905

July 24, 1906

Distance Tongue
of Ice to Rock

"C"

60 ft.

76 ft.
140 ft.
155 ft,
203 ft.
235 ft.
240>^ ft.
243 ft.
327 ft.

Recession of Ice

since Previous

Year

16 ft.
64 ft.
15 ft.
48 ft.
32 ft.
5>^ft.
2^ ft.
84 ft.

An interesting point is that the recession from 1890
to 1898, when the yearly record was begun, averaged
56 feet a year, while from 1898 to 1906 it averaged
but 33.3 feet, or about three-fifths.

To determine the rate of flow of the ice on the
surface at a line above the tongue a much greater
length of time and more care are required. Many ob-
servers in Switzerland, and Rev. \Vm. S. Green on this
glacier, as previously noted, bored holes in the ice and
planted poles at certain intervals, which required con-
stant resetting to keep them in place owing to the rapid
melting away of the surface. Recently steel_ plates
about six inches on a side have been used, which lie on
the surface and sink in slightly, thus securing a firm
hold, and the motion over any stated period nearly in-
dicates the motion of the ice below.

In 1899 a row of eight plates was laid out at a point
about 1,300 feet above the tongue. On the high right
moraine the upper end of a base-line 229 feet 5 inches

Caiuuiiiin Alpine Journal.

long was located, the lower end being further down on
the same ridge. h\oni both ends of this base-line all
the plates could be seen, as well as most of the points
on the ground moraine below the tongue. The centre
of a very i)roniinent tree far up on the cliffs at the left
side furnished the other end of the line on which the
plates were laid out, a light mountain transit at each
end of the base-line giving the locations without
measurement on tiie ice. After thirty-six days the
positions of these plates were noted and the amount
they had moved from the straight line measured by
means of steel tape. These showed the maximum mo-
tion near the centre to be 6.79 inches per day, and the
minimum near the right side, 2.56 inches.

These plates were again measured in 1900, 1902,
igo3, and 1906, when it was found that but one re-
mained on the ice, all the others having fallen into cre-
vasses and been lost or rested on the border moraine.
The following table shows the total yearly motion,
and the average daily advance from the period when
the location was previously made: —

Illecillcwact Glacier. — Table Showing Motion of Line
of Plates, 1899 to 1906.

u
V

sition of Plates
July 31, 1899

stance Below
iginal Line on
.gust 6. 1900

.2 0
'^ 0

0 s;

stance Below
riginal Line on
igust 26, 1902

.2 f^

*= 0

istance Below
riginal Line on
ugust 28. 1903

aily Motion,
)02 to 1903

istance Below
rigrinal Line on
jly 12. 1906

c c < i

C 2

c 0 <

C 2

Q 0 <

C ^

c 0 ^

On line

1044 in.

2.82 in.

3456 in.

3.21 in.

Lost

—

Lost

Online

1488 in.

4.00 in.

4446 in.

3.94 in.

Lost

—

Lost

On line

1716 in.

4.64 in.

4848 in.

4.18 in.

6216 in.

3.73 in.

On border
moraine

On line

2112 in.

5.71 in.

Lost

—

Lost

—

10.200 in.

On line

2220 in.

6.00 in,

5850 in.

4.84 in.

7740 in.

4.87 in.

Lost

On line

2280 in.

6.16 in.

6312 in

5.51 in.

8388 in.

5.65 in.

Lost

On line

2160 in.

5.84 in.

6504 in.

5.79 in.

Lost

—

Lost

On line

2040 in.

5.51 in.

Lost

1 Lost

;-..m«r&%',_ -i.

"''^I:-

i:i.m.

i<^>A,

/ 'a^ix, Pholo

PIRATE No. 9.— TEST PICTURE FROM ROCK 'W,- 1899, ILI^ECILI^EWAET GLACIER.

(Compare Plate 10.)

I'aux, Photo.

PIRATE No. lO.-TEST PICTURE FROM ROCK "W," 190(5, ILLECIIJ^EWAET GI,ACIER.

(Compare Plate 9.)

Modern Glaciers

These motions have also been plotted on the map
and show graphically the greater motion of the central
portions, and that the right or concave side moves more
slowly than the left or convex.

In the summer of 1906 a new row of six plates was
laid out on the line of 1899, ^"^ after an interval of
twelve days the maximum motion near the side was
found to be 7.00 inches per day and near the centre
11.33 inches. A comparison of the summer motion
in 1899 and 1906, when tabulated in the following
schedule, shows that the motion of the glacier at the
present time is greater than it was in 1899, although less
than the results of Dr. Green in 1888 would indicate.
What effect this will have on the position of the tongue
and glacier outline time alone will show.

Table Comparing Summer Daily Motion of Plates on
Illecillewaet Glacier, 1899 — 1906.

1899 — Thirty-Six-Day Interval

1906 — Tw

klve-Day Interval

Number of
Plate

Ft. from 19e6
Ice Edge

Average Daily

Motion in

Inches

Average Daily

Motion in

Inches

Ft. from 1906
Ice Edge

Number of
Plate

187

2.56

Plate lost

415

3.90

7.00

276

520

5.51

11.33

532

668

6.77

9.75

727

760

6.06

900

6.79

956

6.16

10.25

1020

1220

6.00

8.85

1171

76 Canadian Alpine Journal.

But one transit being available in 1906, the dis-
tances from the upper base-line ends to the plates were
determined by means of a 12-foot stadia, the motions
of the plates being of course measured with a steel tape.
The \ery clear atmosphere made long sights satisfactory,
but at times the vibration of the air, alternately cooled
and warmed by the influence of the ice, made it ne-
cessary to wait a considerable time till this disturbance
was removed.

Altiiough a plotting of a map of the tongue and
moraines of the glacier is a most important record of the
conditions, but little need be mentioned here. The
main points were determined by triangulation and the
details sketched in w^ith the aid of the transit and stadia.
It may be noted that the conditions change most rapidly
even within a few weeks. Streams break through,
while others disappear; on the ice crevasses open and
close and great walls of ice form where before there
were level plains. The 1906 plates were laid out on
comparatively easy surfaces. Twelve days later great
crevasses had opened between them; one plate was
totally lost and several of the others were found in
almost inaccessible positions.

A continuous photographic record of the tongue of
a glacier supplies one of the most accurate means of
comparison known. While annual changes, unless very
marked, can only be determined after an interval of a
number of years, the slight advance of crevasses and
moraines may be distinctly seen, and after a term of say
five or ten years, sweeping differences may be noted.
On August 17, 1898, a large rock marked "W" on the
map was selected from which the annual test picture
might be made. Yearly from that time, at almost the
same date, photographs have been made, using the
same camera, lens, and as nearly as possible the same
field of view. The trees in the foreground have grown,
but the tongue of the glacier is still unobstructed, and a

I'nitA-^ Photo,

ri.ATH Xo. 11.— YUllU GI.ACIER, F1KL,D, li. C
Note the Ice Arch and Seracs.

/ 'aux. Photo.

PIRATE Xo. 12.— WKNKCHEMXA CI^ACIEK, AI.I5ERTA.
The Glacier is Encroaching on the Living Forest.

Modern Glaciers 77

comparison of these pictures at intervals of three or
four years proves conclusively the continued retreat and
shrinkage of the whole mass. (Compare Plates 9 and
10.)

It would be wearisome to recount the similar work
carried on on glaciers in the vicinity. The methods have
been similar but varied to meet conditions.

The Asulkan Glacier, situated in the valley next to
the Illecillewaet, receded since 1899, then advanced for
a year, and the past summer (1906) was almost in the
same position as in 1899. The summer rate of flow
varies from 2.4 inches per day on the right side to 8.9
inches on the left. It bears large masses of moraine and
appears to be more active than its sister in the adjoining
valley. (Frontispiece.)

Further to the east, at the boundary-line between
Alberta and British Columbia, the great Yoho Glacier
at the head of the Yoho Valley offers many features,
particularly a superb ice arch, often sixty feet high and
broad, from which the Wapta River issues. (Plate 11.)

The Victoria Glacier, above Lake Louise, is form-
ed from the masses which avalanche from the upper
slopes of Mt. Victoria and fall 2500 feet to the second-
ary glacier below. The slope is very slight and the
surface is so covered with a layer of moraine that the ice
is obscured. Here glacier tables and sand cones may
often be seen, while the surface characteristics are very
marked. (Plate i.)

In adjoining valleys the Wenkchemna and Horse-
shoe Glaciers are of marked interest. The former is of
the piedmont type, being fed from a dozen smaller
streams on the slopes of the Ten Peaks. This glacier
exhibits unusual features in that it is probably ad-
vancing slightly and from year to year pushing its
moraines over the living forest which surrounds it. If
this is the case, it is the sole example of many scores of
glaciers in the district which is advancing. (Plate 12.)

78 Camuiian Alpine Journal

Descriptive details may be multiplied indefinitely, as
no two glaciers exhibit the same characteristics. What
has been said will, I trust, give a correct and pleasant
idea of this great natural plienomenon, which if it has
been successful will more than repay for this humble
effort.

Structures Around Rogers Pass 79

STRUCTURES IN THE VICINITY OF ROGERS

PASS.

By E. M. Burwash.

Any one who visits Rogers Pass and examines
even cursorily the mountains which surround it, must
be struck with the pecuHarity which many of them
possess, namely, a more or less perfectly pyramidal form.
Mounts Sir Donald and Cheops will at once recur to the
minds of those who have seen them as the most con-
spicuous examples. Mounts Avalanche and Macdonald
are somewhat less striking instances. Mt. Hermit,
viewed from the south, is a pyramid with its top missing.
Another form characteristic of the locality is a long,
somewhat sharp ridge, divided by transverse passes into
separate peaks. As an instance of this, the ridge which
includes Castor and Pollux, Afton and Dome and Mt.
Abbott may be mentioned. Perhaps most impressive
of all from its enormous mass and proximity to the
railway is the great ridge which lies between the upper
Illecillewaet and Beaver Valleys, bears on its shoulders
the Illecillewaet Neve and forms the base from which
Sir Donald, Uto, Eagle, Avalanche, Macdonald, and
other mountains rise.

The recurrence of similar forms suggests a similar
origin and on examination it is not difficult to see that
all the peaks above mentioned owe their common pe-
culiarities of shape to a similarity of geological struc-
ture. They are in fact the remainders of two denuded
synclinal troughs.

A brief explanation of this type of structure may
not be out of place in a paper of this kind. As is well-
known the elevation of mountain ridges is the result of

80 Canadian Alpine Journal.

pressure actiiic^ in a horizontal direction, which throws
the surface layers of the planet, usually known as its
"crust," into folds. To these the names of anticlinal and
synclinal have been given, the former referring to arch-
like forms and the latter to trough-like forms. By
reference to the accompanying diagram (Fig. i), it will
be seen that the upper rocks of an anticlinal must tend
to be fractured and pulled apart by being bent over the
rocks beneath them, much as a stick is broken by being
bent around one's knee. They are thus rendered looser
in texture and more readily attacked by rain, frost and
running water. On the other hand the upper part of a
synclinal, near the centre, must be compressed as the
anticline is stretched, closing the joint-cracks of the rock
so that they are not readily penetrated by water, and
causing the minerals of which it is composed to re-
crystalize, which renders it much more tiurable. Thus
it comes about that the synclinal, which one would na-
turally think of as forming a valley, as in newly folded
regions it often does, comes at length to form a ridge,
which persists long after the more friable anticlinal arch
beside it has been carried away piecemeal but completely,
leaving a valley to mark its site.

The ridges thus formed are divided transversely by
joints, which serve as lines of attack for the eroding
agencies, which enlarge them into V-shaped ravines, and
thus the ridge is carved into a series of separate peaks
each of which exhibits more or less perfectly the typical
pyramidal form.

Dr. G. M. Dawson describes the geological struc-
ture about Rogers Pass as follows : "The great

synclinal, which coincides with the highest part of the
range, appears to have a transverse width of about

thirteen miles The position of the main axis

of this synclinal nearly corresponds with Loop Creek,
on the railway, to the west of Glacier Station, while
a subordinate synclinal trough runs immediately to the

£. AT. Rur-u ash. Sketch

FIG. 1.— DIAGRAM OF TWO SYNCLINAI, RIDGES WITH ANTICI.IXAL

VALI^KY BETWEEN.
One Ridge shown in Perspective, the other in Cross-vSection.

aarA icrhittt and.

Sea I €

reet

^■"

E. M. Biiriuosh, Skiici

FIG. 2.— G. M. DAWSOXS SECTION OF GREAT SUMMIT SYNCI^INAI, OF

THE SEI,KIRKS

Structures Around Rogers Pass 81

east of the same station and nearly coincides with the
actual watershed in the pass." The main syncline is
shown by Dawson in his section (Fig. 2) as a closed
fold, that is, one in which the folding has progressed
until the two sides of the trough have come in contact
with each other, and which would, therefore, show on
the surface near the axis the upturned edges of vertical
strata. The subordinate trough he represents as open,
in which case one would expect to find horizontal strata
at the axis, or centre-line of the trough. It is the sub-
ordinate syncline whose remaining part forms the Sir
Donald Range and the eastern section of the Hermit
Range. It is transversely divided by the deep valley of
Bear Creek, which separates the two ranges between
Mounts Macdonald and Tupper. On the cliffs of Mt
Macdonald, as seen from this valley, or from the Hermit
Range, (Fig. 3) the trough-like curvature of the strata
may be very readily observed. The same structure may
be seen in Mt. Sir Donald on viewing it from the
Illecillewaet Neve in the direction of Lookout Mountain,
a straight line drawn on the accompanying map from
Mt. Sir Donald to Mt. Hermit represents approximately
the position of the axis. It will be seen that it is roughly
parallel to the general direction of the mountain-system
and to the valley of the Beaver River. It passes through
Mounts Macdonald and Tupper and also through Mt.
Shaughnessy to the north-west of Hermit. All of these
mountains together with Uto, Eagle and Avalanche,
which lie a little to the west of the line, may therefore
be assigned to the same type of structure.

What appears to be the axis of the main synclinal
is indicated by the line joining Castor and Pollux with
Ursus Minor. It passes through or near Mounts Castor
and Pollux, Dome, Afton, Rampart, Abbott, Cheops
and Ursus Minor, the first six of which form a con-
tinuous ridge. Ursus Major lies to the west of the axis

82 Ccnuidiiin Alpiiic Journal.

and consists i)t tilled strata forming part of the western
side of the trougli, and cxliibiting an interesting reversed
curvature.

Of the mountains surrounding the pass, Rogers
and Sifton are still unaccounted for. Neither of them
lies upon a synclinal axis; they are on the contrary by
a steep dip and curvature of the strata composing them
easily recognized as belonging to the sides of the troughs.
Mt. Rogers, viewed from the south (Fig. 4), shows
very distinctly the curved dip of its strata towards the
east, which flattens out to the horizontal in Mt. Hermit,
on the axis of the syncline. Mt. Sifton is also a frag-
ment of the anticlinal arch separating the two synclines,
but the writer, in the absence of information as to the
dip of the strata composing it, is unable to speak de-
finitely as to which side of the anticlinal axis it lies.
Its position, however, to the west of the anticlinal valley,
would seem to indicate that it is part of the eastern edge
of the western or main trough.

The reason why these portions of the folds away
from the synclinal axis have proved so resistant is not
quite as clear as in the case of peaks that lie in those
axes. A suggestion may perhaps be drawai from the
fact that the synclines themselves are not quite straight
throughout their length, but curve horizontally toward
the west as they extend northward. If the folding of
the strata into troughs hardens the compressed upper
part of those strata, so also the fact that a trough is it-
self bent must bring great compressive forces to bear
upon the rocks forming that side of it towards which
it is bent, that is, the concave side. The outer or convex
side would also tend to be stretched and prove less re-
sistant than the inner side.

The central point of the curvature of the strike of
the syncline may be located somewhere near the valley
of Bear Creek. A corresponding curvature in the
valley of the Beaver River is noticeable at this point.

,t-. Mm.

i^'. .1/. Bumash, Sketch

FIG. 3.— MT. MACUONAI^D SEEN FROM ROGERS AMPHITHEATRE

/:'. Af. Hitfivnsh, Sketch

FIG. 4._MT.S. ROGERS AND HERMIT
\\\W\ Stratification I^ines continued to Illustrate Structure

Structures Around Rogers Pass 83

Mounts Rogers, Sifton and Grizzly may, therefore, re-
present those parts of the parallel synclines which have
been subjected to squeezing owing to the horizontally
curved shape which the structures have assumed in this
neighborhood. The fact that they all lie to the west
of the axis of the minor syncline may be cited in sup-
port of this view.

Equally interesting and of more practical import-
ance are the valleys which have been excavated in this
double syncline and its central subordinate anticline. As
mountains represent the less easily eroded parts of the
terrane, so valleys represent the more easily eroded. The
short valley extending from Bear Creek to the Illecil-
lew^aet, in wdiich the summit of the pass is situated, has
already been mentioned as marking the position of the
central subordinate anticline. The map shows that the
valley of the Asulkan Brook and the Rogers Amphi-
theatre may be regarded as continuations of it at either
end. The former does not appear to coincide wath the
anticlinal axis, however, but lies somewhat to the west
of it.

The depth of this summit-valley, some six-thousand
feet below the higher peaks surrounding it, suggests a
more powerful erosive agency than the small brooks
which now traverse it in opposite directions from the
summit, and its continuity in size from end to end sug-
gests that it was the work of a single stream which once
flowed throughout its length, and not merely due to the
lowering of the watershed between the present brooks.

If we can imagine the gorge between Mounts
Macdonald and Tupper filled up, it is evident that the
waters from what is now the upper part of Bear Creek,
and from the central mass of the Hermit Range, would
flow westward through the Illecillewaet Valley, and
some considerations render it probable that this was
once the case. If so, the greater amount of water
flowing through it would account for the deep and clean-

84 Canadian Alpine Journal.

cut nature of the summit valley. Bear Creek must tlien
have been confined to the eastern slope of the Sir
Donald Range, but being situated at the point where
the curvature of the synclinal made its eastern side most
easily eroded, and discharging into a valley much lower
than the summit valley, it was able to extend its head-
waters westward more rapidly than the other streams
on the same slope, gradually lowering the watershed
and finally drawing off to the Beaver River what were
previously the headwaters of the Illecillewaet. It has
now cut its bed across the summit valley at a point so
far below its former level as to reverse the direction of
flow for a short distance in this valley, has left the
Rogers Amphitheatre, once the upper part of the summit
valley, as a hanging valley high up on its northern
slope, and has extended its headwaters to the heart of
the main synclinal between Mounts Cheops and Ursus
Major. The Illecillewaet, thus decapitated, continued
to deepen its valley below the junction of the streams
from the Vaux, Illecillewaet and Asulkan Glaciers so
that the summit valley itself is now being left at a higher
level, and presents the appearance of a hanging valley
as seen from the bed of the Illecillewaet a short distance
to the west of Glacier House.

That Bear Creek has invaded the territory of the
Illecillewaet, and not the reverse, seems proved by the
much fresher appearance of the gorge between Mounts
Tupper and Macdonald, with its precipitous sides and
hanging valleys, as compared with the upper Illecil-
lewaet valley which has sides of much longer slope and
tributary streams like Cougar and Loop Creeks whose
valleys are cut down to the level of the Illecillewaet itself
and are very deeply excavated for some distance above
their confluence with the main stream.

SIRDONHLD ^NDHCRMil

e rr a,^,^jj.

Mountain Climbing for Women 85

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING FOR WOMEN.

By Mary E. Crawford.

If for the sake of argument the question "Should
women climb mountains?" were brought up it would
be found exactly one hundred years behind the times.

In 1809 the first historical mountain ascent by a
woman was made when Maria Paradis was taken to the
summit of Mont Blanc by Jacques Balmat. Sad to say,
her motive was not of a very high order, the excursion
being made entirely for the mercenary one of personal
gain. Neither can she be said to have "climbed" the
mountain as she was literally "taken" by Balmat and
hauled up like a sack of potatoes. "But," she said,
"thanks to the curiosity of the public I have made a
very nice profit out of it, and that was what I reckoned
on."*

From this time on, the possibility of making ascents
seems to have found favor in the eyes of the more ad-
venturous women, until, to-day it is doubtful if any
woman who has climbed over 10,000 feet could make
one cent out of the erstwhile profitable public curiosity.

In 1834 a Bavarian Princess ascended the Mit-
taghorn, 10,328 feet. In 1838 Mile. D'angeville ascended
Mont Blanc. In 1863 Mrs. Watson was one of the
party which conquered Balfrin, 12,500 feet. In 1864
Miss Lucy Walker ascended the Balmhorn, 12,176 feet.
In 1868 as recorded by Whymper in his "Scrambles in
the Alps," a young woman of the Val Tournanche
arrived within 350 feet of the summit of the Matter-
horn, the mountain being as yet unconquered. In 1870

* M. Durier's " Le Mont Blanc."

86 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Mrs. Brevoort stood on the summit of the Meije, 13,026
feet. And so on to the present day. when the names of
Miss Peck, who so recently scaled Huascaran in the
Andes, a peak over 24,000 feet high; of Mrs. Bullock
Workman, who with her husband has made first ascents
of the giants in the Himalayas ; and of Miss Benham,
with about 200 ascents to her credit, prove that w'omen
also are making history in the alpine world.

Ordinarily, the idea of mountaineering as a re-
creation only occurs to those who live in the vicinity
of mountains or whose business takes them there, or in
whose family the love of mountaineering is inherited.
But now that alpine clubs exist which admit women to
membership, and which, by assuming all responsibility
of equipment at a reasonable rate, place the mountain
summits within reach of all, there is no reason why
every woman may not seriously ask herself "Why should
I not spend my holiday this year in the mountains?"

There is no recreation w-hich, in all its aspects of
surrounding and exercise, will bring about a quicker
rejuvenation of worn out nerves, tired brains and fiabby
muscles than mountaineering. It is for women one of
the new things under the sun and every fresh mountain
is a new delight. Ennui has no place in the vocabulary
of the woman who climbs, the words which rout it are
enthusiasm and exhilaration. Diseases of the imagina-
tion cannot be discovered anyw-here on a mountain
side, where Nature asserts herself so grandly to the
consciousness and with such insistence that the "ego"
with its troubles sinks out of sight.

In the actual climbing the w-hole attention is so
absolutely concentrated on the business in hand that
every worry is put to flight and nothing is of any
moment beyond reaching the top of the mountain.
The therapeutic value of this one feature alone is
inestimable.

Dim [•oricster. Photn.

I,OOKOrT POINT

CROSSING BEAR CREEK

Mountain Climbing for Women 87

Take the woman whose usual occupation is a
sedentary one — whose daily life is one of routine in the
office, the school-room, the sick-room; and who is con-
stantly giving out to others her nervous energy. Put
her on the train and send her to the mountains. The
imperfect glimpses of this peak and that gorge are small
foretastes of what she is going to enjoy, for no one
knows the mountains who sees them only from the car
window. Now she has reached her destination and is
left to exchange for the rattle of the train the music
of rushing torrents, to breathe in the keen pure air which
finds its way to the very last air-cell of her lungs, and
to rest her tired eyes on beauties of form and color
never before imagined. Every influence by which
she is surrounded is alterative in its effect.

She spends a night under canvas and feels the first
pangs of healthful hunger to which she has long been
a stranger. And now — suitably dressed, and with feel-
ings of excitement and wonder — she waits wath her
party of guides and companions the word which starts
her off on her first mountain ascent. Nervous about
the new experiences to come? Perhaps — for the almost
invariable reply given by the woman to whom is pre-
sented the new idea of mountain climbing for herself,
is — "Oh! I never could climb for I am always dizzy
when at a height — I cannot look down — I should be
afraid." But there are guides, men of experience, whom
she has only to obey, and who will show her the right
thing to do; there is the rope, tested and strong; and
she has her alpenstock and her nailed boots whose
efficiency against slips she has already experienced. She
knows that every precaution against danger is provided
and perhaps remembers Mrs. Jellyby's remark that "You
may go into Holborn without precaution and be run
over; you may go into Holborn with precaution and
never be run over. Just so with" — the mountains, to
change the quotation. Then there is the company of

88 Caiuulia)i Alpine Journal.

former novices who also had always been dizzy at
heii^hts. hut who now ascend their peaks without a qualm
and with contidence.

There is another factor which she has not taken
into account, but which comes to her as surely as there
is a cliff to climb or a torrent to pass, and that is the
infallible instinct of self-preservation. She is going to
know herself as never before — physically, mentally,
emotionally. And so she starts out, gains confidence
with every step, finds the dangers she has imagined far
greater than those she encounters and arrives at last
upon the summit to gaze out upon a new world. vSurely
not the same old earth she has seen all her hfe? Yes —
but looked at from on top — a point of view which now
makes upon her mind its indelible impression.

This woman returns to her round of daily duties in
the workaday world — but she has only to close her eyes
for a second and she is transported to her mountain top.
Brain fag? Nervous exhaustion? Asthenic muscles?
They have lost their dread meaning. Time cannot drag
now, for to the mountaineer "the year passes quickly
looking back and looking forward."

Not many books on athletic sports for women — if
there are any — devote a chapter to mountain climbing;
perhaps because the idea is a new one, or perhaps be-
cause it is only a short time in the year that can be given
to it by the average woman, while other forms of
physical exercise can be practised more continuously.
Beyond presenting the idea, however, books cannot do
much to teach the "knack" — it can only come by ex-
perience. Preparation for the climb can be made by
following these more every-day exercises and, viewed
in this light, they take on a fresh interest. The daily
physical drill has an object now, and every long walk
leads to the mountains. Rowing with the sliding seat
has been recommended as the best exercise for training
for mountaineering — but for those to whom this is out of

Mountain Climbing for Women 89

the question the Japanese method of individual muscle
training is excellent ; and walking every day and in all
weathers, with perhaps a pedometer to add zest, is best
of all. Many women take no previous training beyond
this. Mrs. Bullock Workman who, as she says of her-
self, is not a light weight, made ascents of over 16,000
feet in the Himalayas without any, and her highest and
hardest work was accomplished in the low levels and
moist atmosphere of Ceylon and Java. She recommends
for those who wish to reach the higher peaks, a
previous residence of a few weeks at 11,000 feet.

The ambition of the average woman, however, will
not lead her beyond the more easily obtainable ascents,
and she can almost disregard any fears of the effects of
high altitudes. Mountain sickness does not usually
attack its victims under 12,000 feet, and many attain far
greater heights than this without any untoward sensa-
tions. Climbing is for the stout woman as well as the
thin, and while it is the rule to lose weight during the
period of making mountain expeditions, the normal
equilibrium is soon gained. Stout and thin alike find
themselves in much better proportion than before.

Any woman who contemplates this form of re-
creation, and who has any fears as to her physical
ability, should be properly examined first. Should she
be below the average, however, she has only to think of
Switzerland — the Mecca of the invalid, among whose
heights are to be found sufferers from diseases of every
system of the body — circulatory — respiratory — nervous.
These find in that wonderful air and beautiful environ-
ment their restoration to a large degree and, knowing
that our Canadian mountains possess the same power,
she can confidently expect like results.

The following data of physical characteristics and
personal experience have been gathered from nine
women who have made more than two ascents of over

90 Canadian Al/>iiic Journal.

10,000 feet. These follow their daily occupation at sea-
level and in the prairie provinces, and include teachers,
nurses, housekeepers, stenographers.

(a) Height ranges from 5 feet to 5 feet 9 inches.

(b) Weight ranges from 98 lb. to 140 lb.

(d) Ability to sleep between climbs — very good
except in two cases, these being influenced by tempera-
ment.

(e) Temperament — classification of : Energetic or
Indolent, Excitable or Deliberate — while none acknow-
ledge to indolence, every variation under the other heads
is given, from highly strung and extremely excitable to
very calm and deliberate. Dizziness at heights was felt
in two cases on first climb but not subsequently. All
unite in asserting the beneficial effects experienced.

The following are extracts made from general
remarks in the list of questions sent out. "Mountain
climbing is a splendid cure for nervousness."

"From various climbs during five summers I believe
that any woman with fairly sound organs can do
mountain climbing with very great benefit to body and
mind. I am convinced that making a fairly dangerous
climb, where every sense must be alert and cool, makes
a woman more fearless in attempting difficult tasks in
her ordinary life. The ideas gained of the beautiful
and sublime cannot be valued."

"In my experience I have found, that when tired,
there is a mental exhilaration which supplies new energy;
and in time any feeling of fatigue departs so as to allow
of finishing the trip with no ill effects whatever."

"I lost weight during the week of climbing, but
never felt better in my life."

And so the woman goes back to her tasks revivified.
For the teacher new lights have been thrown upon
history, literature, geography or mathematics. The

Mountain Climbing for Women 91

artist and writer have found a mighty inspiration. The
student of natural history has fresh specimens to
classify. The nurse need not rack her tired brain for
material to while away the heavy hours of pain for her
patient — she has a fund of thrilling and amusing
anecdotes to give out of her own experiences.

There is a field of interest in the mountains to
satisfy every branch of mental enquiry. And for the
body? When the mountaineer's friends one and all
greet her with the exclamation "How well you are
looking, I never saw you looking better in your life!"
she knows that she is the happy possessor of the beauty
of health gained from her sojourn among the heights.

92 Canadian Alpine Journal.

OBSERVATIONS OF GLACIERS.

By Harry Fielding Reid.

The active explorations which the members of the
Canadian Alpine Club are carrying on in the little known
regions of the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks give them
an opportunity of collecting important observations
bearing on the conditions of the glaciers. I fully
realize that the charms of mountain climbing require
no special inducements, and, to change an old adage,
that climbing is its own reward ; but the addition of a
specific object to the general pleasures of mountaineering
will add much to the interest of a summer's outing. The
establishment of a Scientific Section in the Canadian
Alpine Journal indicates an interest in scientific matters
on the part of its members which will certainly lead to
the collection of important information regarding the
condition of the glaciers. The extension of the glaciers
is continually varying and therefore observations which
may be made in the future will not take the place of
those which might be made now. All kinds of observa-
tions could be made, from those of a casual character
to carefully conducted experimental studies, such as
those of the Messrs. Vaux, Professor Sherzer, and of
Mr. Wheeler; but those which can be most easily made
by exploring and climbing parties are observations on
the changes in size which the glaciers are undergoing.

The different parts of a glacier are not indepen-
dent, but are closely related to each other. In glaciers
which are not varying in size the annual accumulation
of snow^ in the reservoir above the neve-line, equals the
annual melting of the ice in the dissipator below it; and
these are each equal to the ice flowing through a section
across the glacier at the neve-line. Anything which

Observations of Glaciers 93

throws this general relation out of adjustment will pro-
duce variations in the size of the glacier, but the changes
may not become evident until some time later. For
instance, a number of years of increased snow-fall will
cause a more rapid flow of ice into the dissipator, and the
greater velocity thus acquired will carry the ice a greater
distance before it is entirely melted; but the advance
of the end may not occur for many years after the in-
creased snow-fall. On the other hand a great increase
in the rate of melting may produce an immediate re-
treat of the end of the ice. Although much study has
been given to this aspect of the subject, a detailed
relation between climatic changes and the size of the
glaciers has not yet been fully worked out, and ob-
servations are of great importance.

An increased snow-fall will be followed immediately
by a lowering of the neve-line and vice-versa; and ob-
servations on this point would indicate before hand a
future advance or retreat. There are two ways in which
such observations can be very easily made; by simply
determining the altitude of the neve-Wne with an aneroid,
or by means of the very excellent maps which the Presi-
dent of the Club and his able assistants of the Dominion
Survey have made of many Canadian glaciers. A
photograph of the neve-Vme, showing its relation to the
surrounding topography, could also be used to determine
the changes by comparison with photographs taken in
previous and future years. These observations should
be made as late as possible in the summer in order that
the position of the neve-line may be determined after all
of the summer's melting has taken place. There are
general methods of determining the average height of
the neve-line, and these special observations would de-
termine its variations.

Observations on the conditions of the ends of
glaciers will reveal directly the advance and retreat.
There are many ways by which the position of the end

94 Canadian Alpiiic Journal.

can be determined; the simplest is by measuring the
distance of the ice from a boulder; which can be marked
or which can be recognized from its size and shape. The
objection to this method is that the end of the glacier
varies so much in shape that the changes of the point
opposite the boulder may not represent the true varia-
tions; and, besides, the ice may advance over the boulder
and the point of reference be lost. Another very simple
way is to select two jx)ints, A and B (figure i) on
opposite sides of the valley, a little below the end of the
ice, and then measure the distance of the ice from the
line connecting them. These points should, of course, be
marked, or should have such special characteristics that
they can be recovered. A map can easily be constructed
of the glacier's end by measuring the perpendicular
distance of a number of points at the end of the ice from
the line A B.

A third method, also very simple, can be carried out
with a compass. Select two stations, as in the last
method, except that they might w^ith advantage be at a
greater height above the valley fioor; and from each
station take compass bearings on the other and on
various points at the end of the ice. These bearings
can then be plotted on a sheet and a map of the glacier
made. It is necessary to know the distance between the
stations; this may be determined by auxiliary compass
triangulation from a measured base ; or may be estimated,
of course, w-ith a less degree of accuracy. Instead of
using a compass a small plane-table could be used with
a distinctly higher degree of accuracy. A small board
lo to 12 inches can be fitted upon a camera tripod, and
with a small peep-sight alidade a very fair survey of the
end of the glacier can be made from two or more
stations. This would require a very little additional
weight to be carried and would yield very interesting
results.

,1." - * - '■ >. •

■•^f

-f

"^y^

■-■ ' • .wa

■•.1 < > > '( ■ ,*>7.

*■■■■ ■ ifl^ ■ ^Y

•J

o
o

o
as

■r.

Observations of Glaciers 95

Perhaps the simplest method to be used in the field
is by photography. A single photograph showing the
relation of the end of a glacier to the surrounding
topography is useful, and will indicate, in conjunction
with future photographs, even when not taken from the
same spot, whether the glacier is retreating or advanc-
ing; but it will not give quantitative values. Two or
more photographs, however, taken from the stations A
and B, with a few auxiliary bearings, will enable a fairly
accurate map of the end of the glacier to be made by the
methods of photographic surveying. The additional ob-
servations that are needed are: the distance apart of the
two stations, and bearings from each station on the
other and on two points in each photograph. These
bearings could be obtained with a compass or by means
of a simple plane-table. It will frequently happen that
persons are in the neighborhood of a glacier without
the skill or without the means of determining the dis-
tance between the stations and the bearings required, but
this should not deter them from making their photo-
graphs. Let them select two stations, placed somewhat
as A and B in the figure, and so situated as to give good
views of the end of the ice; and let them take photo-
graphs from each station. The stations should be
described or marked so that they may be recovered in
the future. These photographs will be quite valuable,
for some future expedition to the same region may de-
termine the proper bearings, and then the earlier
photographs could be used to plot in the end of the
glacier at the time they were taken. Any ordinary
camera can be used, but one precaution should be taken,
namely, to hold the camera level when taking the picture ;
a small circular level attached to the camera is very
useful for this purpose.

The determination as to whether a glacier is ad-
vancing or retreating by the simple examination of its
end is not always satisfactory, but occasionally definite

96 CiniadiiUi Alpine Journal.

results may be obtained. The slope at the surface of the
ice of an advancing glacier is usually fairly steep, and
that of a retreating glacier fairly gentle. Sometimes
an advancing glacier is invading a forest or advancing
among bushes or overturning stones; these symptoms
are, of course, unmistakable. A retreating glacier
usually has a broad area in front of it upon which plant
life has not taken hold, and sometimes the appearance of
the ground immediately in front of the ice shows that
it has very recently been uncovered ; sometimes detached
masses of ice protected by moraine material, or recently
deposited moraines are found in front of the glacier,
giving a certain indication of retreat.

It is not only important that observations should be
made, but it is equally important that they should be
recorded ; and I therefore recommend that a special
committee of the Canadian Alpine Club be appointed to
take charge of this information, and to publish an annual
report in this Journal. Copies of photographs, with the
accompanying data, and all observations which may be
made on the conditions of the glaciers, should be de-
posited with the committee. There is an International
Commission which publishes annually a general account
of the variations of glaciers in all parts of the world.
This commission was appointed by the International
Congress of Geologists at Zurich in 1894 and reports
regularly to the Congress, which meets every three or
four years. Mr. Douglas W. Freshfield represents
Great Britain and its colonies on the commission, which
would be very glad to receive more information regard-
ing the variations of the Canadian glaciers.

A. O. H hfeltr. Photo.

ILLUSTRATION No. 1.
From View-Point 79.3 l-'eet South of Rock No, 1—1908

A. O. H-ltecler, Photo.

ILLUSTRATION No. 2.
From View-Point GJo Feet Nearer Ice than the \'aux Mark.s of 1902-1908

Motion of the Yoho Glacier

MOTION OF THE YOHO GLACIER.

By a. O. Wheeler.

At the close of the Club's observations of the Yoho
Glacier on July 17th, 1907, a row of metal plates was,
for the second time, set out across the ice forefoot, at
relatively the same position as in 1906, and their relation
to the base A-B* obtained by angular readings.

On July 1st, 1908, the glacier was visited and ob-
servations made similar to those of the two previous
years. The results are set forth in the accompanying
tables.

To Obtain Rate of Flow.
Angles were read from the respective ends of the
base A-B upon the plates in the new positions in which
they were found. None were missing. The computed
results are as follows: —

Table Showing the Motion of Plates Set on the

Yoho Glacier.

Plate

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

No. 5

No. 6

Movement between July ISth, 1906, and July 17th, 1907

Yearly
Motion

29 ft.

74 ft.

89 ft.

124 ft.

134 ft.

Daily
Motion

0.95 in.

2.43 in.

2.93 in.

4.08 in.

4.41 in.

Yearly
Motion

Daily
Motion

Movement between July 17th, 1907, and July 1st, 1908

127 ft.

20 ft.
0.69 in

43 ft.
1.48 in.

112 ft.
3.85 in.

115 ft.
3.95 in.

4.37 in.

124 ft.
4.08 in.

127 ft.
4.37 in.

*See map of ice forefoot in 1908 issue of the Canadian
Alpine Journal (Vol. 1, No. 2, opp. page 274).

Catunlidn Alf>{ue Journal.

On comparing the tabulated results, a slight decrease
will be found in the movement of all the plates except-

insT Xo. ; and Xo. 6. In the case of Xo.

it will be

remembered by those who have read the 1908 Journal
that on July 17th. 1907. this plate was found lying in a
shallow crevasse, and. on that account, the motion may
have been retarded, or the plate thrown backward at the
time the crack opened.

Plate Xo. 6 was set 84 feet nearer the base A — B
than the previous year. It would thus be closer to the
greatest volume of the ice. the point of highest specific
gravity, and tlie increased movement be accounted for.

Taken as a whole, the observations for the two
years give satisfactor}- comparative results over the pan
of the ice forefoot where die greatest volimie is located.
In conjunction witli other obser\-ations and measure-
ments, the results point to a diminution of the volimie
of die ice. and a consequent retreat of the forefoot.

For Adrattce or Retreat.

Measurements were taken, as in previous years,
from rocks Xos. i and 2, and from die Sherzer Rock
to die nearest ice. The results for the several years are
as follows: —

Tabic ShozL'iii^ Mcasurctnents to Nearest Ice.

VtAT

. F"~ Rock N.x 1
1 I ^ Siie of Stneam

From Roek Xo. 2
l^n SJ3e ot Stream

From Sherrer s Rock
Ri^t Side of Stream

19(M

^ ,

79 4 ft

1906

]

27.5 ft

.V>.6fu

79.6 ft

1907

■ 1

35. S ft.

43.Sft

123.0 ft

190S

• •

•

72.3 ft

104.4 ft

13S.5 ft.

Dts'

.^nce

from Rock No

. 1 to Rock No. 2

= 53 ft.

W, O. H'h((ier, Photo.

ILLUSTRATION No. 3.
From Rock No. 2—1908.

A. O. IVhee/c-. Photo.

ILLUSTRATION No. 4.
From Rock No. 2—1906.

Motion of the Yoho Glacier 99

The measurements show a slow but steady retreat
all along the line, although, owing to the change in shape
of the front, the differences in the measurements are not
uniform. The maximum for the three years, 70.8 ft.,
is at Rock No. 2. Here a spur of ice has broken off and
melted, giving a snub-nosed appearance, where formerly
a tentacle reached out. On the right side of the Yoho
River, the recession seems to have been about one-third
of that for the previous year.

Annual Changes in Formation of Ice Forefoot.

Photographs were again taken from view-point 79.3
feet south of Rock No. i, from view-point 6y2 feet
nearer the ice than the Vaux marks of 1902, and from
Rock No. 2. (See illustrations Nos. i, 2 and 3.)

Comparison of these will the illustrations given in
the 1908 issue of the Journal J^ Vol. i, No. 2; opp. page
274) will show a very marked recession of the ice.

Illustrations Nos. 3 and 4 show the photographs
taken from Rock No. 2 for the years 1908 and 1906
with the same camera. The change in the two years
is here very marked, particularly the uncovering of the
floor of the valley near the edge of the stream. These
two photographs illustrate very forcibly the diminution
of the volume of the forefoot. The change is noticeable
in the greater extent of cliff visible above the ice at
sky-line. They point not only to a recession, but to a
large decrease in the thickness of the glacier near its end.

The observations and measurements will be again
made during the summer, and, in view of the heavy
snowfall last winter and the late spring, the results will
be of much interest.

100 Canadian Alpine Journal.

BOTANICAL NOTES.

^ « »

OUR ALPINE FLORA.

By B. R. Atkins.

It is a pretty general fallacy that the Tropics boast
the most beautiful flora, and that, to see superb sights
of floral coloring, one must of necessity go to equatorial
countries for the purpose. Such, really, is not the case.
Of course, there are some truly magnificent flowers
there, as the Epiphytal Orchids, Poincianas, Lagerstrae-
mias, etc., but their grand coloring is lessened by their
general infrequency in the green, ever-green setting of
an almost impenetrable jungle, where nearly every plant
is tree-like.

Strange as it may appear, the coldest flora is,
humanly, the most beautiful; and close up to snow-line
is the true home of floral beauty, both in instance and
mass of coloring; and this strange fact, so easily de-
monstrable, is just as easily explained. It would take
up too much space to tell the whole story of how plants
came to be, and how, first, of one great family, they
separated and divided into many and various ones. We
must accept something for space's sake, and we can
begin with the basal fact that plants live, and that their
life aims are food and perpetuation. The different
shapes and colors we see are means to these ends. In
a word, it is adaptation; and that means survival.
Primarily yellow, simple and regular, they advanced ac-
cording to necessity into white, red, blue, purple and
variegated colors; and from simple, open disks, to bells

Our Alpine Flora 101

and sacks and cornucopias. This with the purpose of
attracting their insect visitors and rewarding them with
the nectar kept for them alone. But, wanting
some return for this display of charm and jealous pro-
vision of sweet reward, they secure their fertilization
by elaborated methods of mechanism which excite our
scientific admiration and wonder. The simpler plants
attract attention and secure fertilization by brilliant
coloring, as our water-lilies, poppies, mallows, etc., while
higher plants dispense with it, as the sage, mint, etc., for
more complex but scientific means of pollination. This
progression means variation, and that, different families;
yet even in the members of one family, as the parent
buttercup, progression may be seen in its children, the
columbine, larkspur and monkshood, all, in adaptation
to their special circumstances, ahead of their comely,
simple mother.

In the Tropics, where there are no truly deciduous
trees, no long winter rest, no spring contrast of resur-
rection, where the struggle for light and air and attrac-
tion, for life indeed, is fierce, sustained, and deadly, we
find this adaptation most and color, consequently, least
conspicuous. In the colder countries, where there is air
to breathe for all the flowering host, and room to dwell
and joyfully inhabit the earth, fertilizing mechanism has
not gone so far but that beauty and loveliness have out-
run it, and gone further. For true beauty of form,
glory of color, and wealth of bloom, all displayed to
grandest advantage in the sublimest of Nature's own
setting (and she is no tyro in art, but its very mother),
the lover of things lovely can better view it at home in
the mountain meadows amid the everlasting hills of his
own Rocky and Selkirk Mountains, than in the heavy
and interminable jungles of some distant torrid clime.

Though mountain flowers are so beautiful, and
though some reason for it has been shown, there is still
another but allied cause not quite as patent to the mind

102 Canadian Alpine Journal.

as the fact is to the eye. In a word, it is because of
the barometer. In our lowland homes the bee is the
patron of tlie plants, and for him our lowland blossoms
display their most alluring attractions and ingenious
devices. Being, however, a busy and honestly indus-
trious fellow, with no time to lose, the flowers he visits
cater with eagerness to his purpose, and endeavor to
catch his attention in a minimum of time. In keepmg
with his habits and sphere, our bee is a solid little chap,
with a heavy body and small wings; and, because of the
rarified air of the mountain heights where he cannot
support his sturdy weight, he ceases to soar, and confines
himself to more canny and commonplace ways where
business is business. And the flowers, perforce, I think,
recognize it.

In the sub-glacial space and sphere the butterfly
reigns as lord, with a goodly and brilliant train of retinue
after his kind. No busy, working, profit-making creature
he, but a gay Adonis of his winged tribe, sipping nectar
where he may be most attracted and disposed, and dis-
playing his charms in all the gaiety of idleness. No
plain, bell-spikes for him, but brilliant, showy, compact
honey, easily gathered, and plenty of it. His motto, " A
short life and a merry one," and seeing it is really so
very short, how should it be other than merry. Adapt-
able and amiable in both spheres, highland and lowland,
the flowers represent the characters of their winged ad-
mirers, and hence their differences of aspect, coloration
and organization to our human view. There are other
causes of dit¥erence, to be sure, which might be looked
at with interest, but as our subject is Alpine Flora,
description of some of its characteristics will explain
them for us.

Ages and ages ago, the geologists will tell when, the
earth as far south as, say, London, New York and
Montreal, was covered with ice. Nothing had survived
the cruel cold, and life was extinct in the great glacial

> ^ -

Our Alpine Flora 103

grave where now we live in generous sunlight. In course
of time, in the fulness of things, the old ice order changed,
and, warmer weather setting in, plants and animals of
sub-glacial regions, fulfilling their simple mission, fol-
lowed the retreating ice-cap northward and upward. As
time went on the plains got too hot to hold them, and
they remained only on the high mountains, or close to
the limit of northern snow. In this way isolated ranges
in either continent have each their own little colony of
Arctic or glacial plants and animals, surviving by them-
selves, unaffected by intercourse with their unknown
fellows elsewhere. This explains the noted resemblance
of species and characteristics common in most alpine
flora, and in the Arctic circles of Europe and America
also. Of course, the traveller in the European Alps will
see a difference here in the species of our mountain flora,
but the family and generic connection of our Anemones
and Avens, Buttercups and Butterworts, Campion and
Cranberry, Gentian, Heath, Wintergreen and Vetch, is
close and clear, and tells us why at such long distances
they reappear (in suitable conditions) following receding
summer snow-lines and frontiers northwards. They are
of an ancestry as old as the ice-age, and as pure in
descent as ancient. They are simple, freedom-loving
plants, loving their mountains and northern homes with
a tenacity of purpose which spells life to themselves and
beauty to the hills they adorn. No exotics or mixed
breeds they, but beautiful examples of the simple life and
hardy specimens of a vigorous clime.

The tenacity and vigor of an Alpine flora is splen-
didly seen in the progress of a mountain ascent. Leaving
the fields of flowers — Arnicas, Asters, Castillejas, Eri-
gerons, and other genera — we find them ever growing
smaller as higher we go, till, at last, tall trees, so called,
trail off into mere straggling and distorted bushes. Here,
where we might reasonably expect to find no thing of
beauty, we find Drabas and Oxytropis, and, growing flat

104 Canadian Alpine Journal.

on the ground, with hardly a stem to them, the Moss-
Campion and Mountain Saxifrage. This diminution is
the resuk of wind and cold ; and because of the warmer
air and more shelter near the ground, the plants lie close
and produce their buds there. Thus, at snow line, and
very far north, vegetation runs low and stunted, taking
cover in every crack and cranny, and in every sunny
nook for protective shelter and warming growth. For
centuries they have been accustoming themselves to such
strenuous surroundings, and well adorn the lofty stage
they occupy. Low, rosette-shaped and compact, they
offer a symmetry of form and cumulative habit dear to
the florist's heart, and one which he artificially loves to
encourage and produce amongst the reedier, if higher
specialized, products of his plains.

Few, very few% plants are " careless of their neigh-
borhood," but are found in a place appropriate to them,
and they to it. Conspicuous in their faithfulness are the
glorious but simple beauties of our Alpine flora, and if
in our ascent we climb the mountain top " where biting
cold would never let grass grow," we shall, even there,
find its silver and sulphur lichens, reminding us, as it
were, of the small pleasures which gladden even the
saddest human lot, and, in the moral, find heart for
further effort to be worthy of our place and walk in life.

A Note on Tyndall's Alpine Books 105

MISCELLANEOUS SECTION.

♦ * »

A NOTE ON TYNDALL'S ALPINE BOOKS.

By Elizabeth Parker.

In the second chapter of his mountaineering classic,
''The Playground of Europe," the late 3ir Leslie
Stephen has this word to which every member of the
Alpine Club of Canada will assent: "My readers — for
I assume that my readers are mountain-lovers — will
agree that the love of mountains is intimately connected
with all that is noblest in human nature." It is the
parenthesis that I would emphasize. Those persons
who have voluntarily lived, even for one short holiday,
in an alpine region, wandering here and there by valley
and pass or climbing to more lofty elevations, are ever
after interested in alpine books, and it is mainly for
them that the mountaineer records his experiences and
describes his visions in rare altitudes — for them and for
the growing number of high climbers. There are those,
it is true, who may make love to the mountains and who
by vice of such love-making are without the circle of
genuine mountain-lovers. Their mark is sentimentalism ;
their writing is not alpine and it is not literature.

Happily for the eager increasing number who
climb mountains the world over there is, in our language
at least, a very considerable alpine literature of high
rank. These Canadian Alps, beginning but twenty
years ago to be climbed, have inspired more than half
a dozen volumes in modern mountaineering, any one of
which would provide matter for an article in this journal.
Their place is assured in Rocky Mountain history. As

106 Canadian Alpine Journal.

far as I know they are : "Camps in the Rockies," by Sir
W. A. Baillie-Grohman; "Among the Selkirk Glaciers,"
by W. Spotswood Green ; "The Rockies of Canada,"
by W. D. Wilcox; "The Selkirk Range," by A. O.
Wheeler; "Climbs and Explorations in the Canadian
Rockies," by J. Norman Collie and Hugh E. M. Stut-
field ; "In the Heart of the Rockies," by James Outram;
"Glaciers of the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks," by
William Hittell Sherzer; "Mountain Wild Flowers of
Canada," by Julia W. Henshaw; "Alpine Flora of the
Canadian Rocky Mountains," by Stewardson-Brown
and Mrs. Chas. Schaffer. This does not exhaust the
modern list and there is also a very valuable literature
now gone into the catalogue of "rare books." A good
many of these have been secured for the Club's library.
Among those wanted is Palliser's Journal. The hint
is given gratuitously, and in passing, it may interest some
to know that in the list given above, four of the authors
are honorary members of the Canadian Alpine Club, one
is its President and two are ordinary members.

I propose to call attention to Tyndall's "Glaciers
of the Alps" and "Mountaineering in 1861," republish-
ed together in Everyman's Library. Part of the first
volume is omitted to make room for the second, but it
can be bought for about thirty-five cents in a well-bound
volume printed in clear type by Routledge. I thought
first of choosing Sir Leslie Stephen's book; and then in
Scots phrase, I "sw^ithered atween the twa," finally
deciding on Tyndall. Nevertheless, "The Playground
of Europe" is the most charming alpine book that has
ever come my way; and, taking them all in all,
mountaineering books are marked by those literary
qualities required to grip the reader in the beginning
and hold him thrall to the end.

It was by these mountaineering records that Sir
Leslie first made fame as a writer. This may be news
to many as it was to me who had read several of his

A Note on Tyndall's Alpine Books 107

biographies and his "Hours in a Library" before ever
hearing of "The Playground of Europe." And when
I heard, I sent to London for it. It is neither scientific
nor learned. You may learn much of a practical sort
from it about climbing in the Alps, so minutely and so
graphically does he record every round excursion. And
he is so delightfully discursive, it is easy to understand
how Stephen's friends were so fond of him, for "The
Playground of Europe" tells mountaineering tales to
which you can return again and again, they are told so
wonderfully well. He seems to take riotous delight
in the difficulties and yields himself with abandon to
alpine beauty, though there is a certain fine reserve in his
descriptive writing. Nevertheless, there is a winning,
escapable personal element, revealing the writer's
kinship with mountain scenery. Again, humanity bears
a part in the book with bits of genial humour and — and
persiflage. He has the gayest contempt for his own
compatriots known in the catalogue as "cockneys."
Altogether, "The Playground of Europe" is a very
striking and original alpine book, and when it appeared,
must have taken its fit audience by storm.

Tyndall's "Glaciers of the Alps" is a different book,
but it is quite as interesting as the other. It is scientific,
but not too scientific, being written in terms of the
people. "The lave," of whom I am one, can read it
with interest, all unconsciously absorbing useful
knowledge. He is never ponderous, his science does not
bore the layman; while he is intent on scientific ob-
servation and while he records every detail of glacier
study, of ascent or descent on a given mountain, nothing
of beauty in natural phenomena escapes his eager eyes.
Were there space, I could quote copiously to prove this.
There are very exciting places, for Tyndall was a ven-
turesome climber — too venturesome. His precepts are
all right, however. How gravely he warns his readers
against such exploits of his own as climbing Monte

108 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Rosa alone. His first ascent of that great mountain
(15,284 ft.) was in company with one Swiss guide who
knew no more of the way than himself, the round ascent
occupying eleven and a half hours.

The second ascent was an impulse. He had lent
his guide to a party bound for its summit, he himself
sleeping in his bed until nigh six a.m. One first sight
of a rare sunny morning and Tyndall must have, that
very day, a sight of the world from the top of Monte
Rosa. To avoid impedimenta later, he left his coat
behind and started in his shirt sleeves, but with no hint
of his goal to the guide he procured. Ere long he was
making his upward way alone, the fearsome guide paid
off and dismissed. "The sun and heaven were glorious,
but the cold was nevertheless intense, for it had frozen
bitterly the night before. The mountain seemed more
noble and lovely than when I had last ascended it; and
as I climbed the slopes, crossed the shining cols, and
rounded the vast snow-bosses of the mountain, the
sense of being alone lent a new interest to the scene."
He was then on a dangerous snow-slope, but Tyndall
ever loved what Stevenson calls the bright face of
danger. Hear him : "The thought of peril keeps the
mind awake, and spurs the muscles into action; they
move with alacrity and freedom, and the time passes
swiftly and pleasantly." So it is with any brave and
flint-faced adventurer who, if he be an alpinist, need
give no reason for indulgence in that heroic sport, save
that he likes it. "No man who ever ascended that bad
eminence Primrose Hill, or climbed to Hampstead
Heath for the sake of a freer horizon, can consistently
ask a better." On the way up Tyndall met the other
party coming down, and he borrowed a kerchief to
protect his naked neck from a freezing wind. By and
by he stood in solitude on the summit of his splendid
mountain. "A world of clouds and mountains lay
beneath me. Switzerland with its pomp of summits, was

A Note on Tyndall's Alpine Books 109

clear and grand; Italy was also grand, but more than
half obscured. Dark cumulus and dark crag vied in
savagery, while at other places white snows and white
clouds held equal rivalry. The scooped valleys of
Monta Rosa itself were magnificent, all gleaming in the
bright sunlight — tossed and torn at intervals, and
sending from their rents and walls the magical blue
of the ice. Ponderous neves lay upon the mountains,
apparently motionless, but suggesting motion — sluggish,
but indicating irresistable dynamic energy, which moved
them slowly to their doom in the warmer valleys below.
I thought of my position; it was the first time that a
man had stood alone upon that wild peak, and were
the imagination let loose amid the surrounding agencies,
and permitted to dwell upon the perils which separated
the climber from his kind, I daresay curious feelings
might have been engendered. But I was prompt to
quell all thoughts which might lessen my strength, or
interfere wnth the calm application of it. Once indeed
an accident made me shudder. While taking the cork
from a bottle which is deposited on the top and which
contains the names of those who have ascended the
mountain, my axe slipped out of my hand and slid some
thirty feet away from me. The thought of losing it
made my flesh creep, for without it descent w^ould be
utterly impossible. I regained it, and looked upon it with
an affection which might be bestowed upon a living
thing, for it was literally my staff of life under the cir-
cumstances. One look more over the cloud-capped
mountains of Italy, and I then turned my back upon
them, and commenced the descent.

"The brown crags seemed to look at me with a kind
of friendly recognition, and with a surer and firmer
feeling than I possessed on ascending, I swung myself
from crag to crag and from ledge to ledge with a
velocity which surprised myself." He reached a
dangerous part of the mountain in time to see the other

110 Canadian Alf^ine Journal.

party enieri^^in^- below from a hollow. They had
escaped from the perilous "edge which now lay between
them and me." With utmost caution and a canny use
of the ice-axe he proceeded along this ridge until he
came to a place where the snow became granular and
the axe comparatively useless. And now his staff of
life was mainly his own limbs, which must carry him
along an edge past a continuous precipice on one side
and a steep slope on the other. He hummed a frivolous
song or speculated as to how he might break his fall
should he slip and be hurled towards certain jagged
rocks below; then doubled his speed till he came to a
place of solid ice most perilous. "Encouraging myself
by the reflection that it would not last long, I carefully
and deliberately hewed steps, causing them to dip a
little inward, so as to afford a purchase for the heel of
my boot, never forsaking one till the next was ready,
and never wielding my hatchet until my balance was
secured." Which is good council for step-cutting on
steep slopes. In another place (on the ascent) he learns
the trick of resting without stopping: "I then slackened
my pace, allowed each limb an instant of repose as I
drew it out of the snow, and found that in this way
walking became rest."

Once below the ugly places, "full ot glad vigour"
the climber bore swiftly down upon the company in
advance and joined them in glissading, galloping, or
rolling down, the rest of the way; and but for waiting
to walk wath a disabled member of the party, he had
made the round ascent in a little over nine hours. And
now this great mountaineer utters a sober word of
warning — solemn precept against his own perilous
practice. The dangers of Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and
their kind are very real, and, if not provided against,
terrible. He solemnly protests against climbing with-
out guides. "Less than two good ones I think an
arduous climber ought not to have; and if climbing

A Note on Tyndall's Alpine Books 111

without guides were to become habitual, deplorable
consequences would assuredly sooner or later ensue."
And, concerning the Canadian Alps and young Can-
adian climbers, "even so, it is so," else our mountains
will have their sacrifice. "You cannot trifle with great
mountains," said the President of this Club to a solemn
group.

There must be some who remember those great
lectures by Huxley and Tyndall to crowded audiences at
the Royal Institution. Friends and colleagues in
science, they differed widely in style. We are told that
Huxley convinced his hearers whether they would or no ;
Tyndall won them by a winsome eloquence. It is so
in all ' his mountaineering narrative and description.
Comparing it again with "The Playground of Europe"
there is in Tyndall's feeling for mountain phenomena
an element of reverential wonder and awe. In Sir
Leslie Stephen this feeling is wholly of admiration and
devotion that is a splendid sort of camaraderie. I may
be wrong, but I think he would not appeal as Tyndall
would appeal to the reader who had never seen a high
mountain range and who knew nothing, even at second
hand, about mountaineering. Nevertheless, as I said,
"The Playground of Europe" remains a book of sur-
passing charm, a classic to be reprinted and to find a
handy place in the book-shelf of many an alpine climber
yet unborn.

Turning again to the "Glaciers of the Alps," Tyn-
dall will describe glacial action — always in terms of the
people, blessings on his memory! — and with the informa-
tion you get an inspiration to go to your own Alps and
traverse glaciers with observing eyes. According to
an English critic, a book that is both informing and in-
spiring, is rare indeed. Well, these are the qualities I
find in "Glaciers of the Alps." There are passages of
vivid description and singular beauty I should like to
quote, but I shall be content with two more. The first

112 Canadian Alpine Journal.

is to illustrate that rare power of which I have spoken.
He is niakino- observations on Mont Blanc : "The rocks
alongside the glacier were beautifully scratched and
polished, and I paid particular attention to them, for
the purpose of furnishing myself with a key to ancient
glacier action. The scene to my right was one of the
most beautiful I had ever witnessed. Along the entire
slope of the Glacier des Bois, the ice was cleft and riven
into the most striking and fantastic forms. It had not
yet suffered much from the wasting influences of the
summer weather, but its towers and minarets sprang
from the general mass with clean chiselled outlines,
some stood erect, others leaned, while the white debris
strewn here and there over the glacier, showed where
the wintry edifices had fallen, breaking themselves to
pieces, and grinding the masses on which they fell to
powder. Some of them gave way during our inspec-
tion of the place, and shook the valley with the rever-
berated noise of their fall. I endeavored to get near
them, but failed ; the chasms at the margin of the
glacier were too dangerous, and the stones resting upon
the heights too loosely poised to render persistence in
the attempt excusable." Investigation is to him a con-
tinual joy. Nothing escapes his quick, eager eye and
ear; to wit, when he describes "a blower" in the ice.
Nothing daunts him. On his first ascent of Mont Blanc,
Huxley gave out and had to remain alone in the cabin
at the Grand Mulets (10,113 ft.) where he waited for
seventeen hours. "To the end of my life," said Huxley,
"I shall never forget the sound of those batons." This
was the sound of the ice-axes against the rocks as the
party made speed towards the bivouac, which they
reached at seven in the evening.

I said investigation was a joy to him, and yet,
scientist as he was, there v^^ere times when human know-
ledge must give way to the spirit of beauty, when inquiry
concerned only the things that can not be measured.

A Note on TyndalVs Alpine Books 113

For, once on the summit of the Weisshorn, a mountain
beautiful above all others to him as to many climbers,
Tyndall opened his note-book to make observations, but
abandoned the attempt. "There was something in-
congruous, if not profane, in allowing the scientific
faculty to interfere where silent worship was reasonable
service."

It was so difficult to choose my last passage that I
left it to chance and opened the book at random, to find
the following description, a typical one, from a climb
on the Finsteraarhorn. "The dawn advanced. The
eastern sky became illuminated and warm, and high in
the air across the ridge in front of us stretched a tongue
of cloud, like a red flame, and equally fervid in its hue.
Looking across the trunk glacier, a valley which is
terminated by the Lotsch saddle was seen in a straight
line with our route, and I often turned to look along
this magnificent corridor. The mightiest mountains
in the Oberland form its sides: still the impression
which it makes is not that of vastness or sublimity, but
of lovliness not to be described. The sun had not yet
smitten the snows of the bounding mountain, but the
saddle carved out a segment of the heavens which
formed a background of unspeakable beauty. Over
the rim of the saddle the sky was deep orange, passing
upwards through amber, yellow and vague ethereal
green to the ordinary firmamental blue. Right above
the snow-curve purple clouds hung perfectly motionless,
giving depth to the spaces between them. There was
something saintly in the scene. Anything more ex-
quisite I have never beheld.

"We marched upwards over the smooth, crisp snow
to the crest of the saddle, and here I turned to take a
last long look along that grand corridor, and at that
wonderful 'daffodil sky.' The sun's rays had already
smitten the snows of Aletschhorn; the radiance seemed
to infuse a principle of life and activity into the moun-

114 CiiiuniiiDi Alpine Journal.

tains and glaciers, hut still that holy \\g\\i shone forth,
and those motionless clouds Hoated heyond, remindin.e^
one of that eastern relig-ion whose essence is the re-
pression of all action and the substitution for it of
immortal calm. The Finsteraarhorn now fronted us;
but clouds turbaned the head of the giant, and hid it

from view The ice-field before us was a

most noble one. The surrounding mountains were of
imposing magnitude, and loaded to their summits with
snow. Down the sides of some of them the half-con-
solidated mass fell in a state of wild fracture and
confusion. In some cases the riven masses were
twisted and over-turned, the ledges bent, and the de-
tached blocks piled one upon another in heaps; while
in other cases the smooth white mass descended from
crown to base without a wrinkle."

I hope I have quoted enough to induce the mem-
bers of the Alpine Club of Canada to own a copy of
this informing and compelling book which will inspire
new climbers to honorable achievement in mountaineer-
ing and m^ake fain for lost youth readers too old to
climb high mountains.

(Signed) E. P.

Rogers Pass Camp 115

ROGERS PASS CAMP.

By S. H. Mitchell.

Who says the word "camp" has a picture in mind.
To the child it suggests pavihons hung with gorgeous
silks, floored with magic carpets and crowded with
fairy attendants. To the ordinary European a camp
means row upon row of tents, equidistant, everything
mathematically exact, everything dominated by
military precision. To the Westerner the term implies
a fire, something cooking in a frying pan, and a pair of
blankets. Our Alpine Club camps are the golden mean.
The fairyland of mountain beauty surrounds them,
military discipline is mitigated by western freedom, and
the frying pan is assisted in its important misson by
a somewhat more elaborate cook's outfit — batteric de
cuisine one may call it without affectation, seeing that
the beating on the bottom of the big dish pan serves the
office of a dinner gong.

The situation of the camp last year was not as
picturesque as that held in the Yoho Pass, nor as grand
in its surroundings as that in Paradise Valley; but it,
too, had its beauties. The view of the Hermit Range
and the Rogers Glacier was always fine, whether in the
early morning light, in the setting sun, or when fleecy
clouds, ominous of ill but still beautiful, drifted up from
the pass below. The scenery of the Selkirks differs
greatly from that of the Main Range; ow'ing to the
much heavier precipitation, the permanent snow line is
at a low^er level and vegetation of all kinds is richer.
The great trees climbing the hillsides give a softer
effect, and over all there is a bloom, a vagueness, very
different from the clear outlines of the Rockies.

116 Canadian Alpine Journal.

The arrangement of the camp was much as in
years past. The official square was the centre from
which the Hfe of the camp radiated. An addition was
made to its convenience in the shape of a letter rack,
hung from one of the poles of the dining pavilion,
where those who wished could look for letters. Be-
shrew those uncomfortable folk, say I, who cannot do
without letters for a short ten days in the year! Mail
in camp, wireless telegrams! There will soon be no
peaceable haven left on earth.

The builders of the camp had their troubles.
Rogers Pass is narrow. The only good camp ground
is occupied by the station and hamlet of that name.
Through the pass runs the railway, an invention not in
tune with the spirit of the mountains. Fortunately,
though near, the trains were not visible. At the foot
of the hill on which our village lay, the long dark swell
of a huge snowshed served as a screen and its lines
guided the eye to the heights of Mts. Macdonald and
Avalanche upon the far side of the V2.\\ty. The water
supply was plentiful, but scarcely poetic. Unfortunately
no mountain stream was available and all water used
in camp was obtained from a pipe connected with that
supplying the snowsheds, one of the many favors grace-
fully offered by the C.P.R. However, this served to
gratify that class of townlover which prefers its milk
from a nice, clean can, to that coming from a dirty cow.

As usual on reaching camp, the first thing necessary
was to worry the President and get a billet allotted.
Tents v/ere found, as in former years, floored with
fragrant balsam boughs and, in addition, furnished with
a basin in the men's quarters as well as in that of the
ladies. There was no ice-cold Paradise Brook to make
the complexion darkly, deeply, beautifully blue. The
softest unoccupied place for a bed was chosen, blankets
spread out and dunnage sorted over in the fond hope of
reducing things to a system.

Rogers Pass Camp 117

"But hark! a sound is stealing on my ear —
A soft and silvery sound — I know it well.

Its tinkling tells me that a time is near
Precious to me — it is the supper bell."

Fortunately there is always plenty to eat. Ice-
axes and alpenstocks would be dangerous weapons in the
hands of an infuriated and hungry mob, and the direc-
torate provides against any such direful contingencies.
The cooking and attendence were as usual celestial and
one did not need to wait until the hereafter to enjoy
its .benefits. One of the waiters, Charlie Sing, was a
born comedian, but such humors are often tedious when
repeated. One day a dish of potatoes slipped from his
hands: "Ah, ha!" he said, with extreme enjoyment; and
twinkling eyes, "Tatas slide allee samee snowslide,"
and then in a stage whisper : "Heap more tatas, you
see."

So evening comes and one strolls round, meeting
old friends and making new acquaintances, chattering,
laughing, noticing the shadows gathering and falling
deeper. The lines on the hills become vague and the
camp fire begins to glow and as a big log is thrown upon
it, a mighty blaze leaps into the air. The first night
in camp the fun round the fire is but half hearted;
people have so much to talk about. They have not
shaken off the solemnity and sedateness of everyday life.
It takes a day, even in such surrounding, to become
childlike again; yet to be childlike is necessary to win
the full enjoyment of these mountain camps.

By this time the notices of the morrow's expedi-
tions have been posted upon the notice board. Every
one sagely remarks "I am going to take it easy the first
day," but the board's suggestions are too alluring, and
the President's tent is thronged with people waiting to
put their names down for the various trips.

118 Canadian Alpine Journal.

First in importance is the official climb. The main
object of the camp is — theoretically — to afford novices
the opportunity of qualifying- as Active Members. The
climbs arranged were decidedly harder than those of
last year. Most aspirants tried Mt. Rogers, but a few
graduated on Mt. Hermit. It is possible to make the
ascent of either in one day from camp, but that would
necessitate getting to snow level at rather a late hour,
and so a small camp was pitched at timber line and
ascent to this was made the afternoon before the climb.
From the main camp the evening fire of the adventurers
was seen shining like a star in the darkness and served
as a sentinel to say all was well.

Start w'as made about 4 a.m. Snow-line was soon
reached, ropes put on, and the passage of the Rogers
Glacier commenced. This, naturally, was a toil or a
pleasure, as the condition of the snow was good or
bad. Sometimes, the ascent was made over the glacier
and by the snow nearly all the way; sometimes, a long
spur of rock was climbed to the summit, making a much
more interesting experience.

The ascent of Mount Hermit starts from the same
point, but a different route is taken across the glacier,
a line straight to the southern face of the peak. The
usual route is up a narrow and steep couloir, but this year
the climbers wished for a little more variety, and the
eastern arete was tackled. It made a very interesting
variation. There was just enough difficulty to keep the
attention on the alert, the rock was firm and the footing
sure. The descent was made by a couloir nearly at the
centre of the peak. Thtre were loose stones requiring
a certain amount of watchfulness, but watchfulness is
an abiding necessity upon the mountains. The glacier
was soon reached again and so back to camp.

The views from both Rogers and Hermit are
similar. To the east stand Stephen and the mountains
of the Great Divide. Close by rises Tupper, only a

Rogers Pass Camp 119

little snow powdering its inhospitable crags; then,
further off, Sir Donald; further still the mountains of
the Dawson range are seen framed in the Asulkan Pass.
Far in the north rise the mountains of the Columbia
snow-field. As ever in these lonely hills of God, peaks
rise beyond peaks, vast waves of mountains, unnamed
and unknown.

There were many other expeditions. The one to
the summit of the Asulkan Pass perhaps best repaid
the effort. The path, starting from Glacier House,
wandered through the forest and then for five miles
up the Asulkan Valley to the foot of the glacier. A
land of streams! The brook running down the centre is
fed by many waterfalls; the flowers were in brilliant
bloom; bright against the blue sky shone the snow. At
the head of the valley a small camp was pitched and
there the members picnicked, blessed the mosquitoes,
sang round the fire and slept the sleep of the open air.
An early start was made the next morning. Scrambling
up the moraine, the main body of the glacier was reach-
ed above the seracs. Owing to the late snow, the cre-
vasses were well bridged. The summit of the pass
was easily reached after some patient trudging, and
the view that took the sight was superb. The pass
dropped steeply on the further side. Across the deep
valley lay the whole Dawson Range, the Donkin
Glacier winding down from its heart. On the left was
the Geikie Glacier. Far to the right Mt. Purity
gleamed white, the dark and lonely valley at its foot
suggesting by its contrast the possibility of a magnifi-
cent etching — if only one could! Close on the right
Castor and Pollux and the rest of the Abbott Range
walled in the pass. Turning fully round, the whole of
the noble Hermit Range was clear across the green
Rogers Pass.

120 Caniuiian All>inc Journal.

This e\i)e(lition ended in various ways. The
obvious and least interesting was to return the way one
come. One party ascended the rid^e and. scahng
Castor and rolhix ami other peaks, came to Mt.
Abbott, and so down to ( llaeier House. This made a
very lonj^ day. .\nother ])arty switched round from
the summit of the pass on to the ucvc of the lllecillewaet
Glacier. This entailed some interestinsj; rock work. In
one place a cornice was so heavy that it had to he cut
throus^h and the G;-uide let down to spy out the land.
All was satisfactory and the snow-field was gained and
traversed to Perley Rock. By the time that was reached
the ilay was getting old and much snow had melted.
When the glacier was left and the rocks traversed the
streams were found to be very full and a good deal
of ditftculty was experienced in crossing them. How-
ever, a bath on a hot day was found to be an amusing
episode — when it was over — and camp was reached in
the best of spirits.

Another expedition popular with the less stalwart
climbers was the visit to the Cougar Caves. The old
"tote" road, used during the construction of the rail-
way, was followed for the first part of the journey. It
wound through the woods along the bank of the
lllecillewaet until the mouth of Cougar Creek was
reached. The valley lying between Cheops and Cougar
mountain is of more than usual interest. It is sharply
divided into a lower V-shaped water-cut, and an upper
U-shaped glacier cut valley. At is upper end are several
small glaciers. Looking down the valley magnificent
views of Sir Donald are obtained. Much snow still
lingered in sheltered places, and where it had lately
disappeared the yellow flowers of the Adder's Tongue
made patches of brilliant color. As the caves were ap-
proached the snow become more plentiful, and in their
immediate neighborhood was thick enough to give an
asj^ect of winter. There w^as general disappointment

Rogers Pass Camp 121

when the custodian of the caves told the travellers that,
owing to the lateness of the season, the water was un-
usually high, and hence the greater extent of the caves
were inaccessible. A large log house of three rooms
was used as a sleeping camp, and meals were served in
the custodian's comfortable cabin. One party was
detained an extra day by very heavy rain, but though
necessarily a burden in a small house, were made most
welcome by Mr. Deutschman. The caves were visited
as far as the water would allow. Acetylene bicycle
lamps were used instead of the traditional tallow "dips"
and answered the purpose admirably. The caves, as
far as they were seen at this time, are a series of
passages and circular pot-holes, worn out of the lime-
stone, which in places is marbleized. The lighting of a
piece of magnesium wire had the usual uncanny effect.
Still, something was lacking; there were no stories of
smugglers or banditti; nothing to give delightful
shudders.

The journey home was made either by the trail
down the valley, or by Baloo Pass and Bear Creek.
There is no trail through the pass and the scramble to
its summit through the thick and tall underbrush gave
those who chose that route a very interesting time.
Bear Creek has a way of raging that is somewhat dis-
quieting to those who love to go dry, but it runs through
a delightful valley down to Rogers Pass. From it
Cheops and Ursus Minor are best ascended, but the
weather prevented these climbs during the life of the
camp.

Owing to the large number of two-day trips the
camp fire was not so crowded as usual ; but after the
apparently inevitable hymns were over many good songs
were enjoyed. No song is too old or too hackneyed for
such a time as long as it has "go." "John Peel," the
Vicar's song from the "Sourcerer," "Mrs. Henry
Hawkins" and many others helped to cheer the night.

122 Cauadian Alf^inc Journal.

One evenino- a topical sonp^ duet was brought two lady
artists, "The Clarget Springanis," which caused much
amusement and had to be repeated several times. How-
ever, the humors of the camp fire, like greater mysteries,
are only to be understood by the initiated.

During the Camp the Annual Meeting of the Club
was held, at which several matters vitally affecting the
future welfare of the Club were discussed.

After a stirring address from the President, the
reports of the different oflicers were read, and finances
and business generally were found to be in a flourishing
condition. The ballots for the various officers were
counted and the results announced. The President then
proceeded to show how the work of conducting the Club
had increased to an extent that made it a serious burden
to those who had so far willingly given of their scanty
spare time to its carrying out. It was, therefore, decided
to appoint a salaried Executive Secretary who could
devote all his time to the business of the Club.

The President then recalled the offer made by the
Dominion Government of the lease of a plot of ground
in Banff on w^hich to erect a club-house. It was felt
that the time was ripe and that the option should not
be forfeited, but it was also evident that the Club could
not finance the building out of its income, A scheme
of ten year debentures bearing interest at six per cent,
per annum was arranged, and a large amount was sub-
scribed on the spot.

It was also decided that incorporation be applied
for at the coming session of the Alberta House. The
meeting ended in general satisfaction and enthusiasm.

The Art Competition was most interesting, but the
number of entries was not as large as it should be.
There were nine exhibits divided among the three
classes. The prizes were awarded to Mrs. J. W.
Henshaws H. G. Wheeler, and P. M. Humme.

I'u'X^

C. H. Aliuhell. Phoio.

ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING AT ROGERS PASS CAMP

C. H. Mitchell. Photo.

AX IMPORTANT QUESTION COMES UP

Rogers Pass Camp 123

Representatives were present from the Alpine Club
(England), the Alpine Club of the Netherlands, the
American Alpine Club, the Appalachian Club, and the
Mazamas of Washington. Sir William Van Home sent
a delightful sketch of himself as a well-nourished "merry
Swiss Boy " leaping ponderously from rock to rock.
Kindly communications were received from Sir Sand-
ford Fleming and the several honorary members.

As in former years the Club received help and
encouragement from all the powers that be. The Do-
minion Government lent the services of the President,
Dominion Topographer, and his survey party for the
week of the camp ; the Government of Alberta, although
camp was held in another province, generously gave a
grant of $500; and the C.P.R., not only in the way of
rates, but through their several departments, gave every
accommodation in their power. The Club is grateful,
and, in return, does much for the advertising of those
parts of Canada hitherto but slightly appreciated.

And so the happy week wore to its end. The
canvas village fell; the hillside was left bare and lonely.
Nothing to show for it all? Yes! what all pursuit of
true sport entails: a gain in health and discipline of
character, a host of happy memories.

124 Canadian Alpine Journal.

IN MEMORIAM.

William S. Vaux, Jr.

During the past year Science has lost, through the
death of William S. Vaux, Jr., one of her modest de-
votees who was doing conscientious and painstaking
work along quiet and unspectacular lines, of which not
a great deal is heard, but which added materially to
the sum of human knowledge respecting the laws of
Nature and their application.

Mr. Vaux was born in Philadelphia^ April ist,
1872, and was educated in private schools there, and
graduated with the degree of B.S. in the Engineering
Department of Haverford College in the class of 1893.
Always having a strong methodical bent, while in college
he did much practical work of value. Among other
apparatus in the construction of which he took a leading
part was a dynamo, w"hich did good service for years
in the lighting plant of the College.

After graduating, Mr. Vaux soon began to apply
himself wuth assiduity to his chosen profession, that of
an architect. Whilst not lacking in artistic feeling, he
devoted his energies largely to the practical side of his
subject — strength of materials, construction-design,
lighting, heating, ventilating, etc. This brought him in
contact with the contractors and their employees. By these
men he was universally respected. They knew he would
not pass inferior work, or permit his client's interests to be
slighted. At the same time, it was felt by all that he
would be perfectly fair and just in his dealings, and
that no one would have real cause to complain of the
way in which he would construe contracts, drawings,
and specifications.

/%H

(X^

WII,I,IAM S. VAUX, JK.

William S. Vaux, Jr. 125

Whilst his professional career was a short one, there
are a number of important buildings in and near Phila-
delphia which will stand as monuments to his ability as
an architect.

Coming of famihes, on both his father's and his
mother's sides, who had been interested in scientific pur-
suits and investigations for generations, it is not sur-
prising that this realm should have appealed to him
strongly. Whilst not particularly caring for mathe-
matics, something of the character of his pastimes may
be gathered from the title of his graduating thesis at
college, " Gyroscopes and Gyrostats and Gyrostatic
Motions." When a boy of less than fourteen years, he
wrote, printed and illustrated with his own photographs,
a miniature book, descriptive of his trip to the Yellow-
stone National Park. Later, a photographer of more
than usual abilifry, his first pictures were made with a
camera he himself constructed as a boy of eleven or
twelve, using a pin-hole for a lens. These incidents are
mentioned to show that he was thorough in his under-
takings, not afraid of work, and accustomed to under-
standing his subjects from their foundations up.

Outdoor life appealed strongly to his manly, joyous
character. Accordingly, we find him as a foundation
member and the Treasurer of the American Alpine Club
and an early member of the Alpine Club of Canada.
For both of these organizations he qualified by his years
of patient observation and study of the glaciers of th^
Canadian Rockies and Selkirks. Mr. Vaux first visited
these regions in the summer of 1887, when a boy of
fifteen years. His second visit was in 1894, and sub-
sequently he pursued the matter each summer from 1897
to 1907, with but one year's intermission caused by
business exactions.

From the first of these visits the phenomena of the
glaciers attracted his attention, but it was not till the
summer of 1899 that his work took really definite form.

126 CauaJiaii Alpine Journal.

Then it was. that with the assistance of his brother.
George V'aux, Jr., he made a fairly accurate survey of
the forefoot of the lUecillewaet Glacier; laid out a line
of plates to measure its rate of flow ; did much work on
its recession: mapped the tongue and adjacent moraines;
located the various rocks previously marked by other
observers, gathering all possible data respecting them ;
and made a photographic survey of the tongue. The
results were published in a paper read before the
Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia the fol-
lowing winter. Subsequently, each season, this work
was kept up systematically, reports being furnished to
and published by the Academy of Natural Sciences of
Philadelphia, and also the International Commission on
Glaciers, which did him the honor to reprint in full his
last detailed paper presented to the Academy of Natural
Sciences of Philadelphia, and published by it. This w-as
the first time in the history of the Commission that any
extensive paper, not prepared especially for it, was so
reprinted.

His investigations, however, must not be thought
to have been limited to the lUecillewaet Glacier. The
tongue and surroundings of the Asulkan were also sur-
veyed and mapped: its rate of flow- measured by setting
out plates: and its various advances and recessions
studied.

In the Rockies his work was less detailed, but
valuable. It has included measurements of the rate of
flow and recession of the Victoria Glacier; of the reces-
sion and structure of the Yoho Glacier: also general
conditions of the Wenkchemna Glacier and of the Bow
Glacier. On all these, reports have been made and the
maps above named and many photographs published.

A little popular treatise upon glaciers, published
with illustrations, in a number of successive editions.
year by year, by the Canadian Pacific Railway, was
largely from his pen. It has had some vogue in high

William S. Vaux, Jr. 127

schools as a text book. His last contribution was pre-
sented to the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadel-
phia in December, 1907, and embraced the results of
observations made during the preceding summer. This
was a paper of four pages.

In March. 1900, he prepared for the Engineers'
Club of Philadelphia, a paper published the following
May, in which were described very entertainingly the
engineering difficulties connected with the construction
of " The Canadian Pacific Railway from Laggan to
Revelstoke, B.C."

It was also to the Engineers' Club of Philadelphia
that he contributed, in May, 1907, the paper republished
herewith. It gives in his own words the best account
extant of some of the investigations that had so deeply
engrossed his attention by way of recreation.

His work in preparing the report of his 1907 obser-
vations was the last that he was able to do. On July
23rd, 1908, he died at his father's summer home at
Bryn Mawr. Pa., leaving behind a vacant place in the
hearts of many friends.

128 Ccniaciian Alpine Journal.

" LOOKIN' BACK."

Wathers o' Moyle an' the white gulls flyin',
Since I was near ye what have I seen?

Deep green seas an' a strong wind sighui'
Night an' day where the waves are green.

Strutli na Moilc, the wind goes sighin'
Over a waste o' wathers green.

Slemish an' Trostan. dark wi' heather,
High are the Rockies, airy-blue ;

Sure ye have snows in the winter weather,
Here they're lyin' the long year through.

Snows are fair in the summer weather,
Och, an' the shadows between are blue!

" THE NORTH-WEST— CANADA."

Oh, would ye hear, and would ye hear

Of the windy, wide North-West?
Faith! 'tis a land as green as the sea,
That rolls as far and rolls as free.
With drifts of flowers, so many there be,

Where the cattle roam and rest.

Oh, could ye see, and could ye see

The great gold skies so clear,
The rivers that race through the pine shade dark,
The mountamous snows that take no mark,
Sun-lit and high on the Rockies stark.

So far they seem as near.

*******

MoiRA O'Neill.
(From " Songs of the Glens of Antrim.")

An Act of Heroism 1 29

ALPINE NOTES.

An Act of Heroism.

All who know anything about the Canadian Rockies
will have heard of the oldest and most celebrated of its
guides, Tom Wilsoo, of Banff, who was with Major
Rogers during construction days of the Canadian Pacific
Railway, and who discovered the famous Lake Louise
and the Yoho Valley. Mr. Wilson's home is at Banff,
but his business of horse-ranching takes him for a large
part of the year to the Kootenai Plain, on the North
Saskatchewan, where his ranche is situated. Some little
time before last Christmas Day he started from his
ranche to celebrate the annual festival with his family
at Banff. It meant a snowshoe tramp alone of seventy
miles through lonely tree-clad valleys, through rock-
bound gorges and over wind-swept passes, where all
nature lay stark and stiff in the icy grip of winter. The
tale is best told in Mr. Wilson's own words, and those
who know can easily read between the lines and can,
perhaps, picture the terrible agony, the fierce despair, the
grim determination, and the hardly-won fight against
that overpowering desire to sleep which is the most
deadly enemy in a case of this kind. The trip was made
up the Siffleur River, over the Pipestone Pass and down
the Pipestone to Laggan, and so by rail to Banff. Mr.
Wilson writes me : —

" There is not much to tell of my trip over the
Pipestone Pass. It was simply the case of a man starting
on a seventy-mile snowshoe trip across the mountains
to eat his Christmas dinner with his wife and family,
and of getting there and eating the dinner, the pleasure
being well worth the trip. I rode to within eight miles

Iv30 CiHiiuliiui .Mpiih' Journal.

of the suiiiiiiit and started early the next iiidrning on
sno\vslu)cs t(i cross the pass (8,300 feet alt.)- It was
snowinc^ a httle and very cold wluii I started, and when
I <^»U op|)osite the Clearwater (lap a hli/.^^ard came up,
and I couM not see nuMX' than six or ei<^ht feet ahead
in that g^rey snow lii^^ht that makes everything- look level.
I was on the trail along the mountain side, and was
afraid of falling down one of those steep side collars
(which you will remember on that side), and oi break-
ing m\ snowshocs. so 1 turned and went down the
mountain to the creek bottom. The snow was seven or
eight feet deep and I fell through a snow bridge, getting
both feet wet. It was below zero and a long way to
timber whichever way I turned ; a little nearer turning
back, but I never like hitting the back trail. It was eight
o'clock at night before I crossed the summit of the pass
and readied the first timber. I got a fire started, but it
was drifting and snowing so hard that the snow cover-
ed my SOX and moccasins as fast as I could wring them
dry, and, owing to the fierce wind, the flames leaped in
every direction, making it impossible to get near the fire,
so at half past nine I gave it up, put in my wet footgear
and snowshoes and started down the valley. I could
not see and felt the way with a stick. By daylight I
had made three and a half miles; not much, but it kept
the circulation going. In the heavy timber I made a
fire and got dried out. My feet were beginning to pain
as they had been thawed out twice already. I made three
miles more that day and finished the last of my grub.
The bis: snowshoes sank fifteen inches in the soft new
snow and were a heavy drag on frozen toes. I saw it
meant three or four more days tramping without grub
to make Laggan. I made it in three, but the last day I
could only make about fifty yards without resting, and
my back tracks did not leave a very straight line. The
chief trouble I had was to keep from going to sleep; it
would have been so much easier to quit than to go on."

An Act of Heroism 131

Mr. Wilson concludes his letter with the remark,
"I think this is the longest letter I ever wrote."

Think for a moment what it really meant; that
every time he put on his snowshoes his toes got frozen
owing to the tight shoe straps; that every time he took
them off his feet had to be thawed out ; that every step
had to raise a load of ten to fifteen pounds of soft snow ;
that wood had to be collected and cut to keep alive during
the night; that fierce pain would drive away sleep; that
he had no food, and always before him those intermin-
able, slow, dragging miles of snowy wilderness. It
must have required iron determination to make the end
of that never-ending track, to eat his Christmas dinner
with his wife and family.

Even such an awful experience could not dull Tom's
keen native wit, and his remark to the doctor while
examining his poor feet, "I hope I won't have to lose
them. Doctor, I've had 'em a long time and I'm sort of
used to e'm," shows the spirit of the man. We are happy
to add that Mr. Wilson is now progressing well towards
recovery. He has lost part of several toes on each foot,
but as he says himself, the doctor has left him well
balanced, by taking the same number of parts from each
foot, and he can't complain.

132 Canadian Alpine Journal.

An Attempt on Mt. Sir Sandford.

At the close of the Rogers Pass camp of 1908, B. S.
Comstock, of New York, and H. Pahner, of Boston,
both Active Members of the Club, accompanied by two
guides. Manuel Dainard and Ed. Robinson, of Golden,
B.C.. made an attempt to reach the summit of Mt. Sir
Sandford. A brief account of the expedition has been
furnished the Journal by Mr. Palmer, as follows : —

"We left Glacier House for Beavermouth on July
1 8th and camped there over night. Next morning we
started down the Columbia River in two canoes. The
river was very high, about fifteen feet above its usual
level, and the current correspondingly swift. The nine-
teen miles to the mouth of Gold Stream was made in
about two and a half hours. Near this point we had
a very good view of Mt. Sir Sandford, some ten miles
inland. Little more than the peak was visible as the
slopes of the valley of Gold Stream are very steep, so
that a short distance down stream the view of the peak
was cut off, but we had the opportunity of seeing the
east extension of its base. This terminates in a double-
peaked massif, for which we suggest the name Mt.
Taurus as appropriate because of its horn-like summits.
Below the massif nestled a good-sized glacier — peaks
and glacier being visible from the Columbia.

"We pushed up Gold Stream, which is about the
size of the Beaver River, with much difficulty, for about
two miles, then landed on the north bank and left out
tent and provisions. From this point it took two days
of very slow work, pushing through the thick growth,
to reach the spur descending from Mt. Taurus to the
west bank of Gold Stream. At this point a branch of
Gold Stream enters from the west, draining a valley
parallel to the Columbia, north of Mt. Sir Sandford.

Hoicard Palmer. P/iolo.

MT. SIR SANDFORD
From V.yst Ridge at Altitude 9000 Feet.

An Attempt on Mt. Sir Sandford 133

"The third day we spent cHmbing the spur, reach-
ing an altitude of 4,000 ft. that night. The fourth day
we managed to make 2,500 ft. and estabhshed another
camp at timber-Hne, still on the spur. At this point our
provisions were much reduced and we could only re-
main to continue the climb one full day more. Sir Sand-
ford had been invisible since leaving the Columbia.

"The fifth day we traversed the entire easterly
termination of the Sandford Range to the south-east
arete, crossing below a smaller glacier. An ascent of
this brought us to a minor summit to the south of Mt.
Taurus, at an altitude of approximately 9,000 ft. from
which the entire region to the south and south-west was
visible, as well as the whole northern chain of the
Rockies on the further side of the Columbia. Sir
Sandford was something over two miles to the west of
us and presented a most striking appearance. The day
was a glorious one and not a detail of the magnificent
panorama was hidden. We spent three hours on this
point, photographing, sketching and erecting a stoneman.
We named the peak Cornice Mountain because of the
large cornice which overhangs the small glacier before
mentioned. Our return was comparatively uneventful
and on the fourth day following we again reached
Beavermouth."

It was found impossible to ascend the mountain
from this side. To reach its summit it would have been
necessary to descend far down the valley and follow to
its source a tributary stream until the further side of the
mountain was reached, some six or eight miles distant.
It would have meant a week's work longer and there was
only food enough to take the party back to the railway.

134 Canadian Alpinr Journal.

New Route Up Mt. Sir Donald, 1908.

Mr. J. P. Phonic has contributed the following note:
"There are three known routes to the summit of
Mt. Sir Donald, spoken of respectively as:

(a) The Huber and Sulzer route, by which the
first ascent was made in 1890.

(b) The Green and Leprince Ringuet route,
which was followed by those gentlemen in 1888 and
1899.

"The latter route necessitates the crossing of a
couloir which is almost always in a dangerous condition,
owing to the great frequency with which small avalanches
of ice, rock and snow are encountered in it. The first
party to ascend the mountain in 1908 reported this
couloir to be in a particularly dangerous condition at that
time (July 9th), and the guide was reluctant to take
another party on the mountain until later in the season.

However, as a second party had arranged to make
the ascent two days later the guide was prevailed upon
to accompany them. They had heard of a new route
which led up through a small chimney, by which the
dangerous couloir could be avoided, and, as they were
anxious to learn if this route was a practicable one, they
decided to investigate it.

"The Vaux route was followed until shortly after
the hergschriind was crossed, and the chimney was then
reached by bearing upwards and to the right of the
usual route. It was found to be about seventy feet in
height and from two to five feet wide, gradually narrow-
ing towards the top. The face of the wall at the back
of the chimney has a slope of about 70° from the
horizontal for the first fifty feet, and at the top it is
actually overhanging. The guide worked his way up

Nezv Route Up Sir Donald 135

first, assisted by the second member of the party, and as
each few feet was gained he braced himself, and the
others followed, assisted by the rope and axes. The
first fifty feet did not present any particular difficulty,
but the last twenty feet was only gained by hard fighting.
However, the top of the chimney was reached after two
hours' work.

"A traverse was then made towards the left, and
the usual course was joined at the point where it emerges
from the couloir onto the solid rock. During the traverse
two nasty corners had to be rounded, but with ordinary
care they were not dangerous. The Vaux roiite was
then followed to the summit.

*'On the descent the route by the chimney was used,
the guide lowering each of the party in turn on the rope,
and one of the party paying out the rope around a rock
at the top of the chimney to lower the guide.

"At the time of this ascent (July nth), there was
considerable ice in the chimney, which rendered the
passage through it somewhat more difficult than would
be the case later in the season. Also, during the descent,
which was made about one o'clock and which took about
an hour, a small cascade of water was falling through
the chimney, w'hich thoroughly drenched the party, but
which would not likely have been encountered a few
days later.

"A permanent rope at this point would render the
passage of the chimney comparatively safe and easy, and
when a rope is in place the writer considers that this
route should be taken, in preference to the one through
the more or less dangerous couloir."

In addition to the routes Mr. Forde mentions there
is a fourth, viz. : that by way of the north arete. The
climb was made on September 3rd, 1903, by E. Tew^es,
of Bremen, Germany, assisted by the guides Edouard
Feuz and Christian Bohren. (See Wheeler's "Selkirk
Range," page 347).

1 36 Cauiiiiiaii Alpim' J()unial.

Independent Mountaineering.

Mt. Stephen.

Immediately after the Rogers Pass Camp a num-
ber of the members, in two parties, made the ascent of
Mt. Stephen. Tlie first rope was in charge of P. D.
McTavish, the second of D. N. McTavish. The chmb
is worthy of note as it marks a new era among Canadian
mountaineers, viz., that of chmbing an important peak
without professional guides. Messrs. P. D. and D. N.
McTavish had already distinguished themselves by two
ascents of Crow's Nest Mountain, but Mt. Steplien,
which is the stock climb for the Swiss Guides stationed
at the Canadian Pacific Railway Company's hotel at
Field, is in a higher cl.ass. The others who climbed were :
the Revds. Gordon, Fraser and Kerr; Messrs. Watt,
Wilson, Hart, McCoubrey. Dr. Crawford and Miss
Patterson graduated upon this occasion.

The party left Mt. Stephen house at 7.15 a.m.
Being a large one, with several novices, great care was
taken and the ascent made very slowly but surely. The
summit was not reached until 3.45 p.m. The descent
was commenced at 4 p.m., and the hut above the fossil
bed reached at 8.30. From that point to the hotel is a
beaten path. Mt. Stephen is described by the party as a
splendid rock climb.

Mt. Edith.

A month later a party composed of Messrs. Hart,
Wilson, Darling, McKillican and Miss Stewart, under
the leadership of F. D. McTa^'ish, climbed Mt. Edith.
It is stated that the last 700 feet is very difficult rock,
rotten and dangerous. At one place the route of the
climb led up an inclined hole for a distance of sixty feet.
A cairn was found on the summit. It is likely that the

ML Edith 137

cairn was that placed there by Dr. N. J. ColHe, who made
the first ascent in 1900, accompanied by the outfitter
guide, Fred. Stephens.

At this point it is well to sound a note of warning.
We are thoroughly in accord with individual effort, and
hold that the only real mountaineering is that done in-
dependently of professional guides, who through super-
human exertion and consummate skill take everybody
and anybody to the summit of the highest peaks. All
honor to these brave and sturdy mountaineers, who risk
their lives more often than is realized injhe endeavor
to populate the mountain summits; who, with infinite
patience, place the wayward foot and hold the trembling
hand, who even carry in their arms, 'cross dangerous
places, those whose nerves have risen in revolt, and on
their backs those whose legs have run riot. All honor
to them! we say. Their patience is inexhaustible, and
their powers inestimable. One of the guides at Glacier,
once asked how he had managed to get a certain rotund
gentleman to the summit of Mt. Sir Donald, replied:
"Oh ! That is nothing. We could take up a dead man."

But, while independent mountaineering is the only
true mountaineering, and individual efifort and ability
bring the only really satisfactory results, it is absolutely
a necessity first to learn the game and to acquire the re-
quisite knowledge and skill before risking your own and
other lives in what may eventually prove most dangerous
places. It is so easy to go forward, so difficult to go
back; so easy to ascend and so difficult to descend. The
snow bridge does not collapse until you are on it; the
avalanche does not start until you have given it mo-
mentum; the cornice does not break until you have dis-
placed its centre of gravity, and then you learn too late,
and the experience is for the others, if others there be.
The prevailing inclination is to minimize the difficulties
and dangers of a mountain and to overrate your own
powers and those of your party. Remember, the older

138 Canadian Alpine Journal.

and more experienced the guide, the more careful he is;
and do not forget tliat a chain is no stronger than its
weakest link. Before taking an untrained party for the
climb of a big peak you should know your route; you
should know their powers; you should know the uses of
the ice-axes and rope; you should be able to judge the
strength of an ice bridge, or the hold of a snow slope
on the mountain side; you should instinctively under-
stand where rockfalls occur, and your ear should be
evert alert for an avalanche. Above all, never take upon
a rope a greater number than can be guarded by its use.
Otherwise, instead of being a safeguard it becomes an
instrument of death. This to the guide. For the others
there is but one word : "Obedience."

Mt. Garibaldi.

In July of last year the third ascent of Mt.
Garibaldi was accomplished by a party of four gentle-
men from Vancouver. A camp was set at timber-line on
the south face, beneath the southern pinnacle, the ascent
to that point being made by the south slopes of the
Tsee-Ki Canyons. This route, as compared with the
north one of the first ascent, is fairly easy, being more
open and freer from bluffs.

A few days were spent exploring the wonders and
beauties of the forests, alplands and glaciers of the
mountain, and viewing the ever-changing phenomena of
the region. One gloomy morning found the members
of the party high up on the treacherous precipices of the
southern pinnacle, within a few hundred feet of the
tooth-like point. They were forced to retreat owing to
the weather breaking, and it w^as well they did, for the
last glacier was crossed in the teeth of a whistling
blizzard.

Two days later they set out again and by 9 o'clock
were on the main summit, having accomplished the
ascent by a new route. Advantage was taken of the
occasion to make the first assent of the Dome.

Mountaineering Club of Revelstoke 139

Mountaineering Club of Revelstoke.

In January of 1909 a number of members of the
Alpine Club, resident in Revelstoke, got together and
formed a local club for the purpose of mountaineering
in the Selkirk and Gold ranges and, avowedly, for the
purpose of advancing the interests of and training re-
cruits for the Alpine Club of Canada. The clause of its
constitution bearing upon this phase of its propaganda
is as follows : —

" Objects :— The Objects of the Club shall be
"the promotion of interest in the Alpine Club of
"Canada; in general mountain and glacial study; in
"mountain climbing; in photogrophy, particularly as
"applied to mountain subjects; and the opening up
"of trails and other means of access to particular
"points of scenic interest in the neighborhood of
"Revelstoke."

The new Club numbers amongst its members some
good mountaineers, who have already done something
in the Canadian Rockies. Its field of operation — the
Selkirk and Gold ranges — presents unlimited oppor-
tunities, and in the immediate vicinity of the Club's
headquarters are several peaks that will furnish excellent
climbs to train for the larger sphere of the Canadian
national club. Chief among these are Mts. Begbie and
Cartier; the former in the Gold Range, the latter in the
Selkirk Range.

Mt. Begbie was first ascended on June nth, 1907,
by a party consisting of the Rev, Dr. Herdman, of
Calgary, Vice-president of the Alpine Club ; the Rev. J. R.
Robertson and Rupert W. Haggen, of Revelstoke,
accompanied by the Swiss guide, Edouard Feuz, Jr.

140 Canadian Alpine Journal

The chief difficuUy in an ascent of Mt. Begbie lies
in reaching timber-hne through the thick matted under-
brush that clothes the lower slopes of the mountain. It
is necessary to camp out for two nights and all facilities
must be packed on the back. In the present case no
other difficulty was experienced except that the day was
wet and was snowy on the mountain, making the climb
disagreeable and cold, and hiding the magnificent view
that would otherwise have been displayed. The most ex-
citing incident occurred during the return across the
river in the boat which, when near the east shore, was
swept against a log and upset. The guide, who was
farthest out, had a hard struggle for a minute or two,
but eventually all climbed safely on the log and maijle

the shore.

A good work for the Revelstoke Club would be to
construct a pathway through the thick growth to
timber-line and to erect a suitable cabin for a stopping
place near the permanent snow^-line. The view from the
summit of Begbie is magnificent beyond description, and
the climb would undoubtedly become a favorite one for
Club members and visitors to Revelstoke.

■♦ « »

Climbs of Importance Made in 1908.

Outside of the work done by the Alpine Club and
its members, as set forth herein, few climbs of import-
ance were made during the season of 1908.

By members of the Alpine Club the following peaks
were ascended : Sir Donald, Rogers, Tupper, Hermit,
Avalanche, Victoria, Lefroy, Aberdeen, Stephen and
Edith. Attempts were made on Mt. Robson and Sir
Sandford, but were unsuccessful.

Climbs of Importance Made in 1908 141

By those not members of the Club the most re-
markable series was that made alone by Edward
Franzelin of Bruneck, Tyrol, Austria, from Glacier
House. The record reads as follows : "6th July, Mt.
Sir Donald; 7th July, Asulkan Pass, Dawson Glacier;
8th July, Hasler Peak, Feuz Peak, Michel Peak (of Mt.
Dawson), Donkin Pass; 9th July, Dawson Glacier,
Asulkan Pass, Glacier House."

Next in importance was that by Prof. Holway, F. K.
Butters and Howard Palmer, the latter a member of
the Alpine Club. An account of their expedition to the
ranges beyond the Asulkan Pass appears in the Journal,
contributed by Professor Holway. The first ascent of
Cyprian Peak of the Bishops Range was successfully
accomplished by these gentlemen, who did not employ
Swiss guides.

Climbs by others, assisted by Swiss guides, were
also made of Mt. Sir Donald, Mt. Sifton and Truda
Peaks. In the main range an English gentleman and
lady made the ascent of Mt. Vaux. A few ascents were
made of Mt. Stephen, Mt. Aberdeen, and several of the
minor peaks surrounding Lake Louise. The foregoing
practically embraces the mountaineering work of 1908.

142 Canadian Alpine Journal.

REVIEWS.

The Rockies of Canada.

By Walter Dwight Wilcox, F.R.G.S.

{Revised Edition, Putnam's).

Once again Mr. Wilcox has revised his well-known work
on the Canadian Rockies. In this latest edition old matter has
been deleted entirely to give room for new, and parts of the
remaining text have been re-written. The illustrations in photo-
gravure are many and lovely, about one-half now appearmg for
the first time. In the preface he modestly expresses a hope that
the "general standard of illustration has been materially raised.
But Mr. Wilcox has achieved much more: over and over again
in these reproductions of mountain landscape, he has lifted
photography into the realm of the highest art. With infinite
patience and devotion he has composed his picture, choosing
artistic foreground and magnificent perspective, and waited
days or weeks or years for the atmospheric moment— the sum-
mer haze, the sky, the clouds in sunshine or m storm, and all
the fickle phenomena of those " high midsummer pomps " m
Alpine regions. His reward has been in such pictures as " Lake
O'Hara" and the long shadows in the morning light; as the
"View from Little Beehive," with its perfect foreground' of
fir and rock and sleeping tarn with the splendour of mountains
and glaciers beyond bathed in tenuous haze; and the " Storm
Scene " showing a tree's marked branches outlined clear against
an angry sky. As he confides to the reader, Mr. Wilcox s
method is entirely empirical, and he has thus learned the trick
of reproducing with camera, atmospheric effects in Alpine land-
scape that challenge the brush and palette. Patience and passion
for mountain beauty and life in the wilds are the chief elements
in learning of that kind. , n-u o i • (

It has become a commonplace to refer to ' The Rockies ot
Canada" as a charming book. Now, apart from its sumptuous
illustrations, where lies the charm? I think it lies in this genuine,
deep-rooted love of the mountains, and the unconscious candour
with which the writer is always taking the reader into confi-
dence. All his descriptions have that unmistakable note of
genuineness, of frank and winsome confidence. Here, and here,
and here in these remote mountain-places may the reader come
for refreshment of bodv and spirit. The writer is not outside
his book, but in it. I cannot put myself in the place of a reader
who never saw an alpine scene, but I think these chapters all
inspire a longing for the distant mountains, even in those who
refuse to travel.

Reviews 1 43

Then, again, many summers' visits to the high Canadian
" Playground " have resulted in that fine culture of the inward
eye which Wordsworth more than any great teacher of Nature
(unless it be Browning in " Pippa Passes ") has emphasized.
Mr. Wilcox, too, knows well, as Wordsworth knew, that "Nature
never did betray the heart that loved her," that she will through
all the years of earth " lead from joy to joy."

On opening the volume for a quotation from one of the
many descriptions of mountain phenomena, the page turned at
a passage on Lake O'Hara and, for an obvious reason, I am
very glad. " Every season, and even each passing month, re-
veals new and unexpected cloud-forms, and now a certain type
of high fog came pouring through the mountains that I have
never seen before. At early dawn each day the peaks are con-
cealed from view, by noon the black clouds, with edges of silver
torn into fragments, are driving among the higher cliffs before
a violent wind, while in the valleys there is perfect calm. Later
in the day, bright clouds, riding above the highest peaks, move
serenely across the blue sky.

" Night before last the coal-red fire of sunset seemed to set
the mountains on fire, under steel-blue clouds. To-night it is
colder. The glow of sunset rises higher and higher on the
snowy summit of Lefroy. and the fleecy, melting clouds take
on a bright tone in the darkening sky. A coal-black seam of
rock on the upper ledges of the mountain now, for the first time,
strikes my eye and startles me. How many years it requires
to see the mountains, even such a scene as this in their entirety!
A pink cloud-banner hangs for a moment to one side of an up-
lifted ledge of rock, while above there is a grey cloudlet, and
even as I jot down these lines and look up, the rich pink has
faded away, and sudden darkening takes place, and deep night
seems to be hovering behind those eastern ridges. A frosty
chill seemingly comes out of the forest and tells that the day
is finished. The inverted trees in the green water are darken-
ing, and across them the blue camp-fire smoke, down the shore,
throws a mystic veil, and is wafted gently lakewards, amid
complete silence.

"The colors are coming back again. An opaline cloud with
milky 'border shows fire underneath, the sky is steel blue, and
the uppermost glacial ice is the greenish-yellow of chlorine.
Has the sun shot a last ray through some far-ofif pass in the
Selkirks that makes this sudden illumination?"

The last sentence reminds us of Tyndall. We cannot but
be impressed with the forthrightness and truth of this descrip-
tion. Mr. Wilcox himself will never forget the " ineffable pomp"
of those two sunsets. They will often flash upon his inward
eye in solitude or in the din of cities. But he is writing all that
down that our minds may share the sights.

The volume contains much practical information out of his
own exploring experiences. There are chapters on Hunting and
Fishing, the Stony Indians, Mountaineering; but the greater
part of the book deals with all that wonderful Lake Louise
region, much of it Mr. Wilcox's own discovery, with Mt.
Assiniboine, and with the less-known mountaineering ground
leading to the great Columbia Ice-field.

144 Canadian Alpine Journal.

" Stickeen. or the Story of a Dog," by John Muir, is a very
little book, but it has the qualities necessary to keep the reader
out of bed until he tinislics it. It is all about an adventure,
thrilling and terrible, on an Alaskan glacier, during a day of
continuous storm. Stickeen is only a wee mongrel, but he has
already joined "Rab," whose peer he is, and the choice company
of immortal dogs. This, by virtue of his own devotion and
daring heroism and .Mr. Muir's beautiful, picturesque prose.
" Stickeen " will surely take its place as a little classic in the
literature of glaciers and of dogs.

"Some Adirondack Paths" is the title of three papers by
Mr. F. W. Freeborn, published in " Appalachia," and now bound
separately in a neat volume for the library of the Alpine Club
of Canada. All three papers describe various paths to pictur-
esque summits enclosing a lovely valley in the Adirondacks.
Mr. Freeborn is a veteran of the mountain trails. He has an
eye for locality and a genius for accuracy. Any reader of his
narrative needs no better guide book. He will be directed by
this landmark and that, and he will know to the minute how
long it ought to take him to make any round excursion from
the Tahawus House in Keene Valley to Mt. Baxter, the Giant,
or any summit in the neighborhood. There is also a fine sketch
map drawn by the writer who, as the prettier eastern word is,
writes " brook " instead of " creek " to indicate the streams.
But the most poetical word of all is "burn" and written only
north of the Tweed.

E. P.

Report of Hon. Secretary 145

OFFICIAL SECTION.

Report of Hon. Secretary.

In the year which closed on March 28th, 1909, the third
of its existence, the Alpine Club of Canada has made sub-
stantial progress. At this writing the membership of all
grades stands at 447. Notable in the increase are four As-
sociate and three Life members; also an Honorary member,
Mr. Walter Dwight Wilcox, F.R.G.S., author of "The Rockies
of Canada."

The Annual Meeting took place on July 10th, 1908, at the
Camp in Rogers Pass. Its chief feature was the President's
address, which dealt in considerable detail with the proposed Club
House, with incorporation and with the prospects of the Club.
Officers were elected for the ensuing term of two years, those
newly elected being: Me'ssrs. J. D. Patterson and M. P.
Bridgland, as Vice-Presidents; C. W. Rowley as Treasurer;
and D. H. Laird, Stanley L. Jones and Frank Yeigh as Advisers
on the Executive Committee.

Executive meetings of the year were as follows: At a
meeting during the camp the names of Mesdames Wheeler
Burns and Rowley were added to the Executive to form a
Building Committee. Resolutions were carried that the
Library subscribe to the Champlain Society for its rare and
valuable books, not otherwise obtainable, on Canadian History;
that copies of the Journal be sent to the leading Clubs; and
that a handbook containing the constitution and a list of
members be prepared.

On December 15th, in Calgary, the Executive received
from the auditors, Messrs. J. B. McLaren and J. W. Kelly, a
present of a handsome loose-leaf ledger and journal, and
passed a hearty vote of thanks to the donors. Other resolu-
tions were that the word Alpine be registered as the address
of the Club with telegraph and cable companies, and that the
A. B.C. code, fourth edition, be adopted as the Club's code;
that the constitution be strictly adhered to in regard to ap-
plications for membership when qualifications were uncertain;
that action be taken concerning all arrears and that the names
of all members not complying with the constitution in this
matter, after notification of such arrears, be struck oflf the
list of membership. A letter was read from Mr. W. D.
Wilcox urging the Club to take action towards preserving the
natural beauty of those mountain places despoiled by tourists
and others, and offering tangible assistance thereto. It was
decided to bring the matter to the notice of the Dominion
Government and to thank Mr. Wilcox for his kind offer. The
sum of $50.00 was voted towards the library.

146 Cancuiian Alpine Journal

On February 2iid, in Calpary. the President reported on
his series of lectures in the Club's interest at Revelstoke,
Vancouver and Victoria. A letter from Vancouver was read
concerning the eligibility of educated Chinese for rnembcr-
ship. It was agreed that the constitution did not forbid. In
response to an appeal from Mr. Harrington Putnam, Vice-
President of the American Alpine Club, for a contribution
towards a fund for one of Miss Peck's disabled guides (a most
pitiable, most worthy case), the sum of $25.00 was voted. At
this meeting the ofTer was made and accepted of a loan of
the $2,000 still required before it was possible to proceed with
the Club House Building.

On March 8th, in Calgary, a letter was read from the
Secretary for the Department of the Interior offering the
Club water-rights at the Middle Spring, Banff, for an annual
tax of t^ve dollars. A stereopticon lantern was received and
accepted with resolution of thanks, from Mrs. P. Burns. An
ofTcr of sectional book cases at a considerable discount for the
Club House library was accepted. It was agreed to adniit
Subscribing members to the Club House camp during the
season of 1909, at the rate of $3.00 per day. ■ r a

On march 24th, in Calgary, the Executive was informed
that the assistance of the President and his survey party
could not be afTorded the Club at the General Camp of 1909,
as heretofore. It was decided to use every effort to induce
the Minister of the Interior to alter his decision.

The outstanding feature of the year's business is the
erection of a Club House at Banff, which, ere this report is
in the hands of members, will be finished and occupied, giving
permanent visibility to national mountaineering in Canada.
The necessary funds have been provided in the form ot de-
bentures purchased by members; and, although, as a rule the
response was generous, had one member not come forward
with a loan of $2,000, the Club House would not have been
built this year. This ought not to be. A more general dis-
tribution of the loan would have prevented the burden falling
too heavilv on one purse. Ten dollars each from the Club s
members, 'and there had been no such necessity. Special
thanks are owing to Mrs. Wheeler, wife of the President, to
Mrs P Burns and to Mrs. C. W. Rowley, Associate members,
for 'their activities in superintending the furnishing of the
Club House, as well as for their generous gifts; to Mr George
Vaux Sr, and family, of Philadelphia, for their gift of the
handsome f^rpelace in the assembly room, erected as a memorial
to the late William S. Vaux, Jr., whose scientific studies
of Canadian glaciers, in conjunction with his brother, George
Vaux Jr, have been so widely published and so greatly
appreciated by the scientific world: and to all others who
have helped with donations in money or in kind.

In February, by Act of the Alberta Legislature the Cub
was incorporated under the legal name "The Alpme Club
of Canada," with power to hold property to the value ot
$100 000 and to borrow money to the maximum ot ^/S,iaa.,

Report of Hon. Secretary 147

All legal work in connection with the preparation and passage
of the Bill was a generous gift to the Club from Mr. Stanley
L. Jones, of Calgary.

The Executive Committee is to be commended upon the
appointment of Mr. S. H. Mitchell as permanent Executive
Secretary, an official the overworked President could no longer
do without.

Although in its youth, the Club has already a healthy off-
spring in two local organiations: the Mountaineering Club of
British Columbia, with headquarters at Vancouver, whose
name implies a field of operation covering the whole
Province; and the Mountaineering Club of Revelstoke, whose
activities will be confined mainly to the Selkirk and Gold
Ranges and their glaciers in the same Province. Than the
Selkirks there is no choicer mountaineering ground in Canada.

Among the social functions of the year were: banquets at
Revelstoke and Vancouver, where Mr. and Mrs. Wheeler were
guests of honor; a dinner at Winnipeg in honor of Mr. S. H.
Mitchell; a reception to Toronto members at the house of
Mr. and Mrs. Frank Yeigh; anniversary functions at Van-
couver, Revelstoke, Calgary and Winnipeg; and other gather-
ings of a social sort, purely alpine.

It is the painful duty of the Secretary to make reference
to the fatality occurring on Mt. Avalanche during last sum-
mer's camp. While deeply regretting the death of the young
lady and sympathising with her relatives, all members attend-
ing the camp of 1908, felt the warning profoundly. Utmost
caution and obedience are necessary to safety, even on so-
called easy mountains. And experienced mountaineers
everywhere, urge upon new^ climbers the doctrine of vigilance,
a doctrine they themselves have learned well.

Knowing the inconveniences suffered by the Hon.
Treasurer and the Executive Secretary, it is in the Secretary's
heart and mind to urge upon all forgetful members the
morality of promptness in paying their annual fees. For
it is more than a question of courtesy, even one of ethics.
Also, it would save much valuable time, stationery and
postage, if persons intending to drop out of the Club would
kindly notify the Executive Secretary of such intention.

Not least in the report are the acknowledgments due
to the Canadian Pacific Railway for liberal concessions m
rates, the loan of Swiss Guides, and kindly help from its
various departments; to the Legislature of Alberta, fpr its
ample contribution of $1,000 towards the expenses of the
General Camp of 1909, and for the refund of the fee of $100,
payable on the Incorporation of the Club; to Mr. E. H. Riley,
M.P.P., for his able presentation of the Bill of Incorpora-
tion in the Alberta Legislature; to the Department
of the Interior for permission granted to the President and
Vice-President Bridgland to attend the coming camp and
wlecome the visitors from beyond the seas. We take it as
a grateful sign that the enormous potentialities of the Can-
adian Alps are not unreckoned.

148 Canadian Alpine Journal

Thongli inouniaiiu-crinj? is as wide as East and West,
knowing in its essence no nationality nor bounds of kingdom
or common wealtli: though one genuine mountaineer has a
noble interest in common with every other genuine mountaineer,
whatever his clime or nationality, there may be occasions
when the Alpine Club of Canada will feel in its heart the tug
of Empire. The visit this summer of veteran British climbers,
members of the oldest and most distinguished Alpine Club
in the world, is such an occasion, and our welcome has in
it an element of national kinship. We hope this visit may
became historic in that it will initiate annual expeditions to
the Rockies under the auspices of the mother of organized
mountaineering.

One word more. During the past year there has been
more climbing in the Rocky Mountains than ever before, and
mainly by members of the Alpine Club; many living in the
mountains, or not far off, climbing early and late in the
season; and a prudent beginning has been made in winter
climbing. The mountaineering impetus is felt in nearly every
province of the Dominion, and an increasing number, who else
would seek the populous Swiss Alps, are now turning to-
wards the larger Alpine Playground of their own country.

Respectfully submitted,

Elizabeth Parker, Secretary.

Report of Librarian 149

REPORT OF LIBRARIAN.

The Club Library has now fifty-two volumes; only nine of
these were received this year. At a meeting of the Executive
Committee at Rogers Pass it was decided to apply far
membership in the Champlain Society at ten dollars ($10.00)
per year. This we were able to do and, by the payment of
back fees, we secured the books published previous to this
year. They are: Lescarbot, A History of New France. Vol. 1,
by Grant and Biggar. The Description and Natural History
of the Coast of North America (Acadia), Nicola Denys—
translated by William F. Ganong, Ph.D.; and Documents
Relating to the Seigneurial Tenure in Canada, by William
Bennett Munroe, Ph.D., LL.B. The Champlain Society proposes
to publish two works a year for the benefit of its members only.
The books will never be put upon the market, and there will be
no reprint. We have also subscribed to the University
Magazine.

At an Executive meeting held in Calgary on December
15th, 1908, fifty dollars ($50.00) was voted for Library expenses.
A portion of this has been expended.

We are indebted to Mr. Walter Dwight Wilcox for the
gift of his revised work, "The Rockies of Canada," which is of
great interest to us, as it deals especially with the district
around Lake Louise.

Mr. James Outram Has made the Club a presentation of
his book: "In the Heart of the Cana.dian Rockiees," a book
dealing largely with wliat is still practically unknown coun-
try. The index is, on a small scale, an encyclopedia of the
Canadian Rockies as now known to the alpinist.

The Hon. Frank Oliver, Minister of the Interior, has
presented the Club with a copy of "The Atlas of Canada,"
than which no gift could be more useful or acceptable.

"The Matterhorn," by Guido Rey, has been acquired by
purchase.

The Hon. Secretary has presented the Club with a little
book called "Stickeen," a description of the Alaskan Glaciers,
by John Muir, for whom the great Muir Glacier was called.

Mr. F. W. Freeborn has kindly given the Club Library
a copy of "Some Adirondack Paths," written by himself and
furnished with maps; a most valuable handbook for wanderers
among those hills.

New Exchanges have been made with "The National
Geographic Society, French Alpine Club, Swiss Alpine Club,
Austrian Alpine Club, The Alpine Club of Japan, Societe des
Touristes du Dauphine, Smithsonian Institute and the Rock
and Fell Climbing Club. We are indebted to the French
Alpine Club for its kindness in sending us files of their journal.
La Montagne, published monthly, dating from January, 1906,
until the present date. In exchange for our journal, F. W.
Faxon, editor of the Annual Magazine Subject Index for 1908,
has listed the Journal in that Index.

150 Canadian Alpine Journal

The following is a catalogue of books, exchanges and
publications in the Library of the Alpine Club of Canada:—

T^, <f-n^')4^^^^- PRESENTED BY

I he Selkirk Range, Vols. I and II

••••A. O. Wheeler.. A. O. Wheeler

Mountaineering Dent. . S. H. Mitchell

1 he Mouse on Sport

Composite Authorship. . •• "

From Old to New Westminster

....Sir Sandford Fleming. .Sir S. Fleming
Climbing in the Himalayas

^,. ^ , ^ , •■■■]■ Norman Collie.. Dr. ColHe

Climbs and Explorations in the Canadian

Rockies Collie and Stutfield.. "

Ascent of Mt. St. Elias

.- Filippo de Filippi..Tom Wilson

Voyages et Aventures dans Alaska

....Frederick Whymper.. " •*

The Land of Cliff Dwellers

• •••Frederick Chapin.. "

Mountaineering in Colorado

....Frederick Chapin.. "
Chamonix and Mt. Blanc

Edward Whymper. . Edward Whymper

A Guide to Zermatt and the Matter-
horn Edward Whymper . . ** **

Camp-fires in the Canadian Rockies

_, . Hornaday and Phillips.. Mrs. Parker

Glaciers of the Alps Tyndall.. " "

The Playground of Europe

....Sir Leslie Stephen.. " "

The Alps from End to End

....Sir Martin Conway.. " "

Stickeen John Muir.. "

Glaciers of the Canadian Rockies and

Selkirks W. H. Sherzer..Dr. Sherze

Mountain Wild Flowers of Canada

^, . ^, Julia W. Henshaw.. Mrs. Henshaw

Alpine Flora of the Canadian Rocky

Mountains

.... Stewardson-Brown and Sc'hafifer . . Mrs. Chas. SchafTer

Among the Selkirk Glaciers

. W. Spottswood Green.. Ferdinand Meinecke

California and Alaska, and over the Can-
adian Pacific Railway

. ••••William Seward Webb.. W. T. Robson

A ?••/.••••;;•.•••;; Samuel Turner.. Samuel Turner

Appalachia, Vols. VII, VIII, IX and X..By Purchase
A Trip Round the World, Vols. I and II..

....Sir George Simpson.. " "

Wanderings of An Artist Paul Kane.. " "

Mission de I'Oregon De Smet.. " "

Saskatchewan and the Rocky Mountains,

1875 Southesk.. " "

Astoria, 1836 Washington Irving.. " "

Report of Librarian "" ' 151

The Northwest Passage by Land, 1863

....Milton and Cheadle.. "

Impressions of a Tenderfoot, 1890

....St. Maur.. « «

The Columbia River, Vols. I and II, 1832..

....Ross Cox.. "

The Solitary Hunter, 1859 Palliser.. "

Camps in the Rockies, 1883

....Baillie-Gro'hman.. "

Mountain and Prairie, 1880

Daniel M. Gordon.. " "

The Great Lone Land Butler..

A Voyage Through North America, " "

1801 Alexander Mackenzie..

The Alatterhorn GuidoRey.. " "

A History of New France, Lescarbot,

Vol.1 Grant and Biggar.. " "

The Description and Natural History of
the Coast of North America
(Acadia), Nicola Denys, translated

by William F. Ganong, Ph.D.. -

The Documents Relating to the
Seigneurial Tenure of Canada, by
..Wm. Bennett Munroe, Ph.D., LL.B.. " "

The Rockies of Canada

....Walter D. Wilcox. . Walter D. Wilcox

In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies James Outram

The Atlas of Canada

The Department of the Interior. . Hon. Frank Oliver

Some Adirondack Paths.. F. W. Freeborn.. F. W. Freeborn

EXCHANGES.
Alpina Americana.
Sierra Bulletin.
Alpine Journal.
The Mountaineers.

Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal.
La Montagne.

Smithsonian Institute Magazines.
Journal of the National Goegraphic Society.
Annual Magazine Subject Index.
L'Echo des Alpes.

Annual of the Dauphine Tourist Society.
Journal of the Austrian Alpine Club.
Journal of the Alpine Club of Japan.

PUBLICATIONS.

Modern Glaciers Wm. S. Vaux

The Great Glaciers of the Illecillewaet. . .Geo. and Wm. S. Vaux
Glacial Studies in the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks...

W. H. Sherzer
University Magazine.
Rod and Gun in Canada.

Respectfully submitted,
April 12th, 1909. JEAN PARKER, Librarian.

152 iatuhiian Alpine Journal.

REPORT OF 1908 CAMP.

The third Annual Camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was
pitched directly upon the summit of the Rogers Pass, at an
altitude of 4,350 feet above sea level. The site was not an ideal
one in some respects, but none other was available. Sites that
will admit of camps on so extensive a scale are scarce in the
narrow, thickly-timbered valleys of the Selkirks, where the
bottoms are filled by rushing torrents, often confined between
rock walls. Although the picturesque groups of spruce of the
Yoho Camp, and the forest glade and rushmg torrent of i'ara-
dise Valley Camp were missing, there was plenty of room, and
the very contrast of the scene to that of previous years proved
an attraction: while the towering heights of Mt. Rogers, the
Swiss Peaks, Hermit xMountain and Mt. Tupper at one end ot
the pass, and the distant snow-fields and glaciers of the Asulkan,
showing between the pyramids of Cheops and Avalanche, at the
other, presented a wide-spreading reach of magnificent^ alpine
scenery that was not to be had from the immediate site ot either
of the preceding camps.

Though a number of mountain streams were m the near
vicinity, there was no water directly at the camp. The difTiculty
was overcome by the ingenuity of Mr. J. P. Forde, resident
engineer for the mountain division of the Canadian Facitic
Railway Directly in front of the camp lay a snow-shed some
half a mile in length. Along its top ran a line of water piping
to convey a supply in case the shed should catch fire frorn a
spark from an engine, a bush fire, or any other cause; for shed
building is very costly and fire a serious menace. It took a
gang of railway men about two hours to lay a line of piping to
each of the various quarters of the camp, and some modern
taps were in use in three different places, providing cold water
in the early morning and hot water during the day when the
sun was shining, owing to the heating of the piping on the root
of the shed. A small but clear and ice-cold spring supplied the
camp with drinking water.

A. feature of the camp for the third year was that with the
exception of two tents loaned by Mr. Forde, we were under our
own canvas, and it requires quite a lot to house and provide
comfortably for two hundred persons, the number for which
preparation had been made.

Owing to the fact that the grade of the railway line on the
approach to, and over, the pass was being changed several
camps of foreign workmen were close at hand, and it was
thought advisable to have two special constables on duty, it
is pleasing to relate that no greater demand was made upon
their authority than to keep the big camp fire well supplied with
fuel and to watch the tents and awnings and tighten the guy

Report of 1908 Camp. 153

ropes when necessary. The foreigners — Japanese Coolies — at-
tended strictly to their own business and nothing was seen of
them.

The weather while camp was being pitched was very bad,
but before the arrival of the visitors, cleared up and, for the
Selkirks at that season, was generally fine, only one really wet
day and a few minor showers being experienced.

The camp opened officially on July 7th and closed on July
16th. A number of members came a day or two earlier and
assisted in pitching and brushing the tents, erecting flag-poles,
and generally getting things in order. When all was finished
the view from the top of the snow-shed was an imposing one.
On a level dip in the centre was the dining pavilion, an awning
erected on a scafifolding of poles, a new one, large enough to
cover the entire assemblage, including the dining tables and
cook tents, the ladies' tea tent, the official notice board, the
post office, and still leave room for all to gather during the
storms. Beyond it in the same dip, arranged in symmetrical
order, were the camp fire — the altar of worship where the fire
never quenched during the period of devotion to the white
peaks' surrounding it — the president's and secretary's official
tents, the art exhibit tent, and behind, on the hill-side, the scat-
tered tents of the various officials and retainers of the camp
work, and of those who had brought their own canvas. On
either side, on gently rising slopes, were the Ladies' and Gentle-
men's quarters, groups of white bell tents set in commanding
positions.

The attendance was the greatest that had yet been experi-
enced, one hundred and seventy-seven persons being placed
under canvas. This number represented a very considerable
section of the globe, the distribution being as follows: In
Canada: BRITISH COLUMBIA— Armstrong, Cranbrook, Gla-
cier, Golden, Greenwood, Kelowna, New Westminster, Revel-
stoke, Rossland, Vancouver. Vernon. ALBERTA — BanfT,
Bawlf, Calgary, Edmonton, Hardisty, Lacombe, Leduc, Leth-
bridge. Medicine Hat, Millarville, Morley. SASKATCHEWAN
— Nokomis, Yellowgrass. MANITOBA— Portage la Prairie,
Winnipeg. ONTARIO — Elmvale, Ottawa, Port Hope, Toronto,
Waterford, Woodstock. QUEBEC— Montreal.

From the United States of America: Cx'VLIFORNIA— Ber-
keley. ILLINOIS— Chicago, Galesburg. MASSACHUSETTS
—Boston, Tuft's College. MINNESOTA— Minneapolis. NEW
YORK— New York, Rochester. OREGON— Portland. RHODE
ISLAND— Warren.

From over seas: ENGLAND — Bristol, Buckhurst Hill, Shef-
field. HOLLAND — Rotterdam. SWITZERLAND — Inter-
laken.

Representatives from the following Alpine Clubs were our
guests: The Alpine Club of England, the American Alpine Club,
the Netherlands Alpine Club, the Appalachian Afountain Club,
and the Mazamas of Portland, Oregon.

The following messages of greeting were received:
From Sir Sandford Fleming, Hon. President: "On behalf
of the first Canadian Alpine Club, an old memorial of the water-
shed of the Selkirks, I send, after an interval of twenty-five

154 Canadian Alpine Journal.

years, cordial and kindly greetings to the new Alpine Club now
assembled in the same locality. May every member return
home with renewed health and only pleasant memories of the
everlasting Selkirk mountains."

From J. D. Patterson, Vice-President: "I sincerely hope
good work may be done from the camp in the Selkirks. Most
sorry 1 cannot attend. Greetings and good luck to all of you."

The accompanying graphic reply to an invitation to be the
Club's guest was received from Sir William Van Home.

Kindly greetings were also received from the Right Hon.
James Bryce. British Ambassador at Washington, U.S.A., Mr.
Edward Whymper, the Alpine Club of the Netherlands, the
Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, and many others.

The third annual general meeting was held under the
pavilion, the principal business being the election of officers to
serve for the second term of the Club's existence. Other im-
portant business was transacted, chief among which was the
decision to build a suitable Club House headquarters at Banff
and to raise the money required by the issue of Club debentures
to the extent of six thousand dollars. The result of such action
is, at the time of writing this report, embodied by a handsome
building which stands forth picturesquely against the pines on
the side of Sulphur Mountain, one of the most prominent fea-
tures of the capital of the National Rocky Mountain Park, and
a fitting symbol of the earnestness with which Canadians have
taken up alpinism in their own snow-clad ranges of mountains.

Assistance was again given by the Dominion Government,
by the Government of Alberta, and by the Canadian Pacific
Railway. To the last mentioned especially are we indebted for
the loan of two Swiss guides for the period of the camp. Three
Swiss guides and one Swiss porter were in attendance, but for
the use of the third guide the railway company received pay-
ment at the regular tariff rate.

Taken as a whole, the camp was the busiest and most en-
thusiastic yet held, and the attendance exceeded all previous
years.

REPORT OF CHIEF MOUNTAINEER.

The mountaineering staff of the General Camp was practi-
cally the same as in previous years: M. P. Bridgland in charge,
assisted by H. G. Wheeler and E. O. Wheeler. The two Swiss
guides, Edouard Feuz, Jr., and Gottfried Feuz, of Interlaken,
were again loaned to the Club by the Manager-in-chief of the
hotel system, Mr. Hayter Reed. In addition, a third guide, the
veteran Edouard Feuz, Sr., was hired by the Club at the usual
tariff rate of the company. A Swiss porter also was hired by
the Club. A number of the Club's members rendered valuable
assistance on the various climbs and expeditions, notably P. D.
McTavish, J. P. Forde, Rev. J. R. Robertson, D. N. McTavish
and Rev. A. M. Gordon.

r>-v

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5<J SHERBROOKE STREET WEST

v>g>..N^H i« ■■ -i-^ v*-c<>'<-A^

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.^"B2^

Report of 1908 Camp.

155

The official graduating clim'bs were Rogers Peak of Mt.
Rogers (10,536) and Mt. Hermit (10,194). It is possible to
make either of these peaks and return in one day from the site
of the Camp, but it was considered too strenuous for those who
were making graduating climbs; consequently arrangements
were made to spend a night at the hut at timber-line on Mt.
Rogers, and tents were placed close by to accommodate the
overflow from the hut.

In all, fifty-seven graduated to Active membership at fol-
lows:

ON MT. ROGERS.

July 7th.
Thurlow, Rev. Fraser.
Gutsell, R. L.
Hamilton, W. G.
Webber, F. G.
Patteson, T. E.
Patteson, Miss A. E.
Farran, F. St. C.
Forrester, D.
Smith, W. N.

July nth.
Macdonnell, Rev. Logic.
'Macdonnell, Mrs. Logic.
Rogers, R. H.
Thompson, W. H.
Dowler, F. A.
Reikie, K. W.
Reikie, Rev. T. T.
Miller, A. E.
Logan, Capt. J. J.
Logan, Mrs. J. J.
Copeland, R. R.
Humphrys, E.
Parslow, Miss B. L.
Hood, R. B.
Stanton, Miss.
Mitchell, C. H.
Cooke. J. R. N.
Gulp, N.

Ford, A. K.
Huffman, J. C.
Main, Rev. C. O.
Garrow, Miss.
Burwash, Rev. E. M.

July 12th.

Haggen, G. L.
Muckleston, Miss.
Pollock, J. T. D.
Buchanan, F. G.
Taylor, E. L. T.
Greenway, Miss C. M.
Greenway, Miss Grace.
Alexander, J. H.
Morrison, T.
McCoubrey, A. A.
LeFeuvre, Miss E.

July 13th.

Foote, Miss S. L.
Maus, Miss D. M.
MacKay, Miss M. A.
MacKay, Miss J. C.
Morrison, Miss A. M.
MacFarlane, Miss G.
Tansley, H.
Reading, A. L.
Robins, K. N.

ON MT. HERMIT.

July 12th.
Richardson, C. A.

ON SIR DONALD.

July 8th.
Gordon, C. J. M.

ON MT. STEPHEN.

July 16th.
Crawford, Dr. Mary
Patterson, Miss Jean
Halstead, Joha.

156 Canadian Alpine Journal.

ROGERS PEAK.
(10.536 ft.)

To make the ascent of Rogers Peak, the party would leave
the camp the previous day either shortly before or after noon
and spend the night at the hut at timber line. The hut could
be reached from the camp easily in from three to four hours.
The trail leading up to it is somewhat steep, but presents
many magnificent view points. Owing to the date of the
camp being early for the Selkirks, the trail was wet and the
frequent travel of the ponies to and fro made the trail in very
bad condition. The ground surrounding the hut and camp
also was none too dry and generally the comfort available was
not so great as it would have been later in the year. A cook
was stationed at the camp and notwithstanding the drawbacks
every one was cheerful and had a most enthusiastic and enjoy-
able time. The ascent was generally made by the southern
arete. It presents a nearly even mixture of rock and snow
work and usually took from four to five hours from the hut
camp. The return was made down the southern face of the
mountain and presented a series of most exhilarating glissades
and a trip across Swiss Neve. While no particular difficulties
or dangers were involved the climb was of quite sufficient
magnitude to test the courage and perseverence of those
attempting it and to entitle the graduates to the degree of
Active membership.

At night the camp fire at the hut could be seen from the
main camp gleaming high up on the side of the mountain, and
daily between 9 a.m. and 10 a.m. many field glasses at head-
quarters were keenly on the watch to discern the tiny figures
of those who had achieved the summit, silhouetted against the
sky.

MT. HERMIT.
(10,194 ft.)

In contrast with Mt. Rogers, Mt. Hermit is distinctly a
rock climb and a very interesting one. Its base is reached
most easily by an ascent of Rogers Glacier and a tramp across
the Tupper Neve. In addition to some splendid rock work,
it presents one of the finest views of the entire range.

MT. SIR DONALD.

(10,808 ft.)

It was early in the season for this mountain and the snow
was in a dangerous condition for avalanching. Notwithstand-
ing, two ascents were made under the guidance of Edouard
Feiiz, Sr. On the second of these ascents the newly discovered
chimney was used, by which the couloir of the falling stones
can be avoided. There were many applicants for this climb,
but owing to the condition of the mountain only the best men
were allowed to undertake it.

Report of 1908 Camp. 157

MT. AVALANCHE.
(9,387 ft.)

This is but a low and easy peak directly south of the camp
across the railway track. An ascent was arranged the second
day after the camp opened, more for the purpose of training
than any other. No one would have even suggested the
possibility of the sad tragedy that occurred, resulting in the
death of Miss Helen Hatch, of Lethbridge, Alberta.

No climbs other than those named were made at the time
of the camp, owing to the large number of graduating members
and the fact that the qualifying climbs required two days and
compelled three of the best guides to remain at the Rogers
hut; also to the necessity for calling in all guides to recover
the body after the accident. Immediately subsequent to the
camp, however, several others were made by parties of members
who had been present; notably, Mt. Tupper, of which an
account is given in this number of the Journal. Mt. Stephen
also was climbed by a party under P. D. and D. N. McTavish.
and on this occasion several graduating members qualified
who had been crowded out at the general camp. A record
of the climb will be found in the Alpine Notes.

M. P. Bridgland, Chief Mountmneer.

158 Canaiiiati Alpitic Journal

EXPEDITIONS.

Apart from actual mountain ascents there were a number
of daily expeditions all of which were patronized.

Probably that of greatest interest was up the Asulkan
Valley, where an auxiliary camp was set with a man in charge
to look after the cooking, camp (ires, etc. The tents were
placed in the woods not far from the foot of the glacier, and
from this point three separate expeditions radiated.

The easiest and most popular was that up the glacier, and
across the snowtield to the summit of the Asulkan Pass, to
get a glimpse of the snow giants of the Dawson, Bishops and
Purity Ranges, lying beyond the deep trough of the Geikie
Glacier, flowing 2,800 feet below the pass.

The second expedition followed the same route, but before
reaching the pass turned to the left and ascended the Snow
Dome of the Asulkan. It then traversed the ridge for some
distance and descending to the lUecillewaet Neve returned to
the main camp via the lUecillewaet Glacier.

A third expedition turned to the right from the Asulkan
Neve and climbing to Sapphire Col traversed the Dome, the
Rampart, Mts. Afton and Abbot and descended to Glacier
House via Marion Lake. This was a somewhat arduous piece
of work and was only made the once. Two of the party were
ladies, the Misses Adams and Springate, of Winnipeg. Glacier
House was not reached until long after dark.

ILLECILLEWAET NEVE.

Another expedition consisted of a visit to the lUecillewaet
Glacier and Neve. It was in charge of Edouard Feuz, Sr.,
and proved most popular owing to the reputation of the guide.
The characteristic features of the icefall, its seracs, moulins
and crevasses were pointed out, and a climb made to Perley
Rock and to the neve perched on a bold rock escarpment live
thousand feet above the Beaver River, winding a silver thread
in the valley below. The magnificent view of the endless
pyramids, towers and domes, snowfields and icefalls of the
Spillimacheen and Dog-Tooth 'Mountains from this point of
vantage was alone worth the labor.

THE SELKIRK CAVES.

A daily expedition left the main camp for the Caves. They
are situated in Cougar Valley at a distance of about eight miles
from Rogers Pass summit.

Two routes were available; the easiest by pony trail, via
the Loop and Lower Cougar Creek Valley; the more strenuous,
on foot, via the upper waters of Bear Creek and Baloo Pass_
This last, owing to the high stage of the streams, was full of
adventure and rendered the stalwart of the Club gloriously
happy.

Harjnon^ Photo.

ROGERS PASS CAMP.

Report of 1908 Camp. 159

A camp had been established at the Caves with a cook in
charge The log cabin erected by the Government furnished
sleeping quarters. Unfortunately, the time of the year was too
early for an entry to the largest series of the caves, the Gorge
series owing to Cougar Creek, which flows through them,
being at flood. The caretaker, however, took the several
parties to the Gopher Bridge and Mill Bridge series, each, of
which has its own striking characteristics: the former of close
proximity to a rushing underground torrent and a spectacular
magnesian light view of a subterranean waterfall, and the
latter, a series of carved circular potholes, descending, pocket
by pocket, to a large chamber, named the Auditorium; also
of twisting, tortuous passages winding in the marbelized lime-
stone.

The hanging valley of the upper Cougar is alone worth the
visit. It is a typical glacier-lined valley, surrounded by sharp,
snow-clad peaks and black overhanging cliffs. There is rush-
ing water everywhere, and the valley bottom and lower slopes
are carpeted with heath and heather, and mountain flowers of
varied brilliant hues are seen on , all sides. The calls of the
hoary marmot and little Chief hare break the solitude, and
high up on the mountain sides flocks of goat browse on the
grassy tufts or wend in single file across the snowfields. Here
also, among the fallen masses of rock debris, is a favorite
haunt of the Grizzly, and they are often seen by the more in-
quiring visitors.

MINOR EXPEDITIONS.

For those who did not desire strenuous work a number of
expeditions were organized daily, including the usual short
tramps from Glacier House, viz: To the Illecillewaet icefall, to
Marion Lake and Observation Point to Cascade Summerhouse,
Avalanche Crest, Glacier Crest, the Loop and a number of
others. Many of these could be made or partly made with
saddle ponies and thus reduced to the least possible exertion.
A full supply of saddle ponies were always on hand.

THE ACCIDENT ON MOUNT AVALANCHE.

It happened on Wednesday, the 8th July, the day after the
official opening of the Camp. Among the parties sent out
that day was one to make the ascent of Mt. Avalanche by the
north-west face. The party was composed as follows: E.
Oliver Wheeler, of the camp staff of guides in charge; P. D.
McTavish, one of the Club's best men, assisting; the Rev. Alex.
M. Gordon, also one of the Club's experienced men; G. E.
Howard, the English Alpine Club's representative, who had had
experience of mountain climbing in Switzerland; A." H. Ford,
of Minneapolis, a novice; Miss E. M. Parslow, of Calgary and
Miss Helen Hatch, of Lethbridge, both of whom had made
climbs previously, the former at the Paradise Valley Camp of
1907, and the latter of Crow's Nest Mountain in the spring of
1908.

160 CaiiadiiDi Alpine Journal.

Shortly after Iiiiuhooii one of the boys — scouts we call
them — came to me and said Mr. V. D. McTavish wished to see
ine in Tent No. 1. l-'or a moment I did not prasp the import
of the message and then I realized that something dreadful had
happened. 1 found Mr. McTavish in a state of complete
prostrat'on and unable to articulate more than the words: "Tt
has happened." "Oh! it has happened!" The nervous shock
combined with his very rapid descent of the mountain had left
him almost devoid of power to speak, and I feared for a few
minutes that all the party except himself had been killed.
Gradually T drew from him the fact that Miss Helen Hatch
alone had fallen. His statement, in subs:ance. was as follows:
The party commenced the ascent directly opposite the camp
and had reached the summit of an outlying spur, scarcely above
timber-line. The ground was still covered with grass and
heather and small brush, the last vestiges of timber growth
were scattered here and there, %vith outcrops and ledges of
rock showing in places. It was necessary to descend from this
shoulder to a snow-filled couloir leading to an ampithcatre,
also filled with snow, across which rose the main peak of the
mountain, where the real climbing commenced. We had
begun the descent but were not roped, as no necessity had as
yet arisen for such a precaution. Coming to a patch of snow,
Oliver turned to Miss Hatch, who was next him, and said:
"Wait a minute until I get down and see if it is all right, you
may have to go round." He then started to glissade down-
wards. As he started. Miss Hatch, full of the exhilaration of
the climb and ignorant of danger, called. "I am coming. Look
out!" and. taking a little run. shot down the snow, lost her
footing and, as Oliver reached the bottom, went by hini with
tremendous velocity. Hearing her call he checked himself,
turned swiftly and grabbed for her. Alas! she had gone wide
and he only touched her outstretched hand. She passed on
down the slope from ledge to ledge, gathering velocity as she
fell and, at a depth of 120 feet, dropped over the final ledge,
twenty feet perpendicular, to the snow-filled couloir. She had
not uttered a sound and must have fainted the moment she
realized what had happened. On reaching the couloir she slid
rapidly down its surface. Had she continued down the full
length of it and of the wider depression which lay beyond, she
might not have lost her life, but alas! the snow stratum on
which she had fallen curved inwards to the clifif and she dashed
head-first into a projecting spur of rock, where the body came
to a rest. The moment it was realized that she was falling,
Oliver and McTavish dashed down the slope, arriving at the
perpendicular edge almost as the body dropped over. This
fact alone would show that the place was not a dangerous one
from a mountaineering point of view.

Having obtained from Mr. McTavish the facts as fully as
he could relate them, I immediately sent a messenger post
haste to the Rogers hut to bring down the two Swiss guides,
Edouard and Gottfried Feuz, the moment they should return
from that day's ascent of Rogers Peak. I also sent a messenger
to bring Edouard Feuz, Sr., from Glacier as soon as he returned
from his expedition. Then, having given full instructions for

Report of 1908 Camp. 161

a party to ascend the mountain at day-break to bring down
the body, I got some provisions and a rope in a rucksack,
and, taking one man, ascended to find the members of the
party who had stayed at the scene of the accident.

We struck the northern precipitous side of the deep de-
pression or ravine leading from the amphitheatre above re-
ferred to by Mr. McTavish, into which the snow couloir led.
We could see below several figures standing around a dark
object on the snow near where it ended at a great boss of rock
in the middle of the ravine. From their location we gathered
that the work of bringing down the body had already been
begun. We shouted and descended the precipice rapidly to
the snow. Crossing this we soon came to where the tracks
showed plainly. Now sending my companion down to the
party below, I waited while the Rev. Mr. Gordon joined me
and, accompanied by him, followed the trail, foot by foot, to
the spot where Miss Hatch first jumped on the snow. My
examination, a minute one, verified almost absolutely Mr.
McTavish's statement, and I realized with the most intense
sorrow that a charming and plucky young life had been thrown
away owing to a moment of impetuosity.

Returning to the group below, I found that Oliver, Miss
Parslow and Mr. Howard had returned to the camp, leaving
Mr. Gordon and Mr. Ford in charge. A rude litter had already
been made and now by its aid we carried the body to timber-
line and covering it carefully with balsam bush, built a fire
close by and prepared to wait for the party coming up. It
rained steadily all night, but a canvas covering I had brought
up furnished some protection. Shortly after daybreak a shout
from the cliffs notified us that the expected party was close at
hand, and soon its members came over the snow towards us
on the run. Among them were the three Swiss guides,
Geoffrey Howard, the plucky Englishman, who only the day
before had been present when the accident occurred, Manuel
Dainard and Closson Otto, two of the oldest outfitter guides
in the mountains, and a number of volunteers from the members
at the camp. A suitable litter was rapidly constructed and the
light weight supported by willing arms was carried on burly
shoulders down the steep slopes of the mountain. At the track
the section men were waiting with a hand-car and the sad and
dripping little cortege, for it was raining heavily, wound its
way slowly to Glacier House. In the meantime the coroner for
the district had been summoned to Glacier and a searching
inquiry resulted in the release of the body for burial.

It will very reasonably be asked: "Was the young man who
had charge of the party a competent guide?" I can only say
that my son has been my companion in mountain climbing
since he was ten years of age. I have frequently been with him
in places of considerable difiiculty and danger and have always
found him cool, clearheaded and capable. I have the fullest
confidence in his ability. His party was not roped, but even
the Swiss guides at Glacier, who are models of precaution,
stated that none would have dreamed of using a rope on the
ground where the accident happened.

162 Camuiian Alpine Journal.

At the Annual MootinR of the Club, luld at the Camp on
the Friday, tlie circumstances were fully related and the
following resolutions unaninunisly passed:

RESOLin^lONS PASSED AT TlIK ANNUAL MEETING
OF THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA.

Held in Rogers Pass, July 10. 1908.
Moved by P. D. McTavish; Seconded by Rev. J. R. Robertson:
That the Alpine Club of Canada, in Annual Meeting
assembled, extend to the bereaved family and friends of the
late Miss Hatch, who so tragically met her death while climbing
Mt. Avalanche, our deepest sympathy in this time of sorrow
and bereavement. Although Miss Hatch had been with us
but a short time, her quiet manner and her gentle and genial
nature had greatly attracted the members of the Club, and her
untimely death came as a personal loss to us all. We sincerely
trust that the most gracious consolation may sustain the
bereaved family and friends. CARRIED.

Moved by Rev. J. R. Robertson: Seconded by Rev. A. M.
Gordon:
That, while we greatly deplore the sad accident which
occurred' while climbing Mt. Avalanche on July 8th, which
resulted in the tragic death of a beloved member, Miss Hatch,
we express our conviction that the calamity was not through
any fault or negligence of any person in the party. Very
especially we express the greatest confidence in the guide, Mr.
Oliver Wheeler, one of our experienced guides, who was
leading his party most carefully. This was remarked upon by
different members of the party, before the accident occurred.

CARRIED.

As soon as the actual facts had been verified, official
telegraphic accounts were sent to leading newspapers, both
east and west, as it was thought desirable to anticipate serisa-
tional reports that might lead to undue alarm among relatives
and friends of the members at the camp.

At the meeting it was stated by the Management
Committee that while all must feel the greatest sorrow for
this most deplorable accident, and the deepest sympathy with
the young lady's relatives, it would be neither fair to those
who had come and were coming, nor wise, that the programme
should be changed in the slightest degree, and it would be
carried through as already published; and this was done.

It is but right to state also that as an expression of con-
fidence in the leader, when the accident happened, the members
of the party, with the exception of Miss Parslow, whose nerves
were naturally much shaken, got together and called upon
Oliver to again lead them up the mountain; which he did.

Arthur O. Wheeler,
Chairman Camp Committee.

Statement of Treasurer. lo3

STATEMENT OF TREASURER.

From May 22nd, 1908, to June 30, 1909.
Receipts.

Balance on hand May 22nd, 1908 $ 542.18

Fees — Associate members $ 351.50

Active members 1,273.35

Graduating members 309.00

Subscribing members 78.25

Life members 200.00

2,212.10

Sale of Stationery 10.90

Interest on General Account 18.64

Ice Axes prepaid 85.15

Photographs 9.00

Sale of Journals and Camp Balance 411.29

Camp, 1908 2,380.61

Sale of Club Ribbon 1.00

Alberta Government, Incorporation fee returned 100.00

Alberta Government, Grant to 1909 Camp 1,000.00

Revelstoke Mountaineering Club to 1909 Camp 500.00

Total $7,270.87

Disbursements.

Printing and Stationery $ 273.67

Postage, Express, etc 298.15

Library 74.48

Wages 665.50

Publishing Journal 931.65

Camp Account, 1908 2,380.61

Camp Account, 1909 432.25

Ice Axes, etc 180.00

Travelling Expenses, Banff and Edmonton 30.40

Alberta Government, Fee for Incorporation 100.00

Graduating Fee overpaid, refunded 5.00

American Alpine Guide, Grant to disabled guide 25.00

Club Ribbon 21.95

Insurance — Hornibrook & Whittemore 12.00

Balance 1,840.21

Total $7,270.87

Unpaid Fees.

Fees unpaid to date $1,022.00

C. W. ROWLEY, Hon. Treas.

164 Cauiuiian Alpine Journal.

RECEIPTS AND EXPENDITURES, ROGERS PASS

CAMP, \9m.

Receipts.

Grant, Alberta Government $ 500.00

Board and Accommodation 1,504.00

Sales, Ice Axes and Sundries 194.25

Baggage, Hire of Ponies 41.35

Employees Fund Collected 122.85

Fees— A. B. Ballentine 5.50

$2,367.95

Expenditures.

Provisions $ 586.14

Wages 272.95

Outfit, Tents, etc 377.34

Freight and Express 99.86

Horses 400.00

Stationery, Printing, Telegrams 40.40

Ice, Axes, etc 184.07

Bonus to Employees 138.00

Smoked Glasses, A. B. Ballentine 5.50

Balance to Canadian Alpine Journal 263.69

$2,367.95
C. W. ROWLEY, Hon. Treas.

BANFF CLUB HOUSE BUILDING FUND.
Synopsis.

Receipts.

Subscriptions Fully paid up $3,666.98

Subscriptions Partially paid up 60.15

Proceeds of Lectures by President 88.25

Interest 27.54

$3,842.92

Disbursements.

Sundry Cheques on Club House Building Contracts. .. .$3,371.89
Balance in Hand 471.03

$3,842.92

C. W. ROWLEY, Hon. Treas.

Statement of Treasurer. 165

BANFF CLUB HOUSE BUILDING FUND.

Subscriptions Paid in Full.

Miss C. E. Adams $ 10-00

F. C. Brown 20.00

S. H. Baker 10.00

E. M. Burwash 20.00

A. B. Ballentine 20.00

M. P. Bridgland 30.00

J. R. N. Cooke 20.00

P. A. Carson 50.00

B. S. Comstock 20.00

R. R. Copeland 10.30

P. M. Campbell 20.00

H. N. Cowdry 10.00

E. V. Cowdry 10.00

Dr. Mary Crawford 10.00

Miss E. G. Crawford 10.00

H. S. Craig 40.00

Prof. A. P. Coleman 10.00

Paul D. Cravath 20.00

F. A. Dowler 10.00

Miss M. T. Durham 10.00

Prof. H. B. Dixon 50.00

G. Darling 20.00

A. C. Davy 10.00

L. L. Delafield 50.00

E. L. Drewry 50.00

F. W. Freeborn 61.00

Miss E. J. Freeborn 9.90

Don. Forrester 50.25

J. P. Forde 20.00

F. St. C. Farran 10.00

Rev. Thurlow Eraser 20.00

Miss S. L. Foote 10.00

Miss F. M. Field 10.00

W. W. Foster 20.00

Miss A. Finlayson 10.00

Miss A. J. Garrow 20.00

R. L. Gutsell 20.00

Miss J. A. Gibson 10 00

C. H. Gillis 200.00

T. H. Graham 20 00

Rev. C. W. Gordon, D.D 30.00

Malcolm Goddard 10.00

Rodney L. Glisan 5000

G. E. Howard 250.00

Miss E. B. Hobbs 2000

A R. Hart .' 30.OO

W. G. Hamilton 2000

Dr. J. W. A. Hickson ..........[.. 20.25

Miss M. Holditch \6.00

John Halstead 20!00

A. H. Hartevelt 25.00

166 Canadian Alpine Journal.

G. L. Haggen 20.00

Miss A. Hutchinson \^y^.

Mrs. Henshaw ^^^

Stanley L. Jones".' 60-^

Mrs. Jardine
Walter Bews

Mrs. Jardine ^Jj-^

D. N. McTavish -^jJO?

J. J. Logan 50.25

J. W. Ladler 1^\>"

S. H. Mitchell 70.13

C. R. Merrill 1000

C. H. Mitchell fO.OO

Miss Amy Morrison \^-^

J. G. Milloy ^00

J. B. McLaren 20.0U

K. D. McClelland 20.00

W. C. McKillican ^O.UU

H. W. xMcLean fOO"

Miss J. C. MacKay 0.00

Miss M. A. MacKay JOOO

Miss G. MacFarlane J^-^,

Miss M. Macfarlane 10.^

A. M. McCoubrey fOOO

Miss K. McLennan |0.00

F. M. Nicholson 10.00

H. J. Palmer ^0.00

Mrs. H. J. Palmer 20.00

Howard Palmer 29.90

Mrs. H. J. Parker 20.00

Miss Jean Parker 20.00

Miss Jean Patterson oc 2a

J. D. Patterson 250.00

Prof. H. C. Parker 50.00

R. E. Plewman 20.00

Miss J. M. Port 20.00

Jas. F. Porter 20.00

C. W. Rowley ^0.00

Rev. J. R. Robertson lO.OU

Rev. T. T. Reikie JOOC

R. H. Rogers jO.OC

G. O. Rogers ;0 00

K. C. Radford JO.OG

K. N. Robins 30.00

J. A. Reid 50.00

C. B. Reilly 20.00

A. J. Sayre 50.00

B. S. Smith 50.00

W. N. Smith 20.00

Miss E. C. Smith 10.00

Miss A. M. Stewart • 20.0U

Miss M. Springate JO.OU

Miss R. G. Stanton 10-00

Miss J. L. Sherman 50.0U

B. F. Seaver 1000

J. N. H. Slee 50.00

Statement of Treasurer. 167

E. L. T. Taylor 50.00

W. H. Thompson 20.00

A. O. Wheeler 250.00

John Watt 50.00

W. J. S. Walker 100.00

F. G. Webber 10.00

H. H. Worsfold lO.OO

D. Warner 50.00

Miss H. Watson 20.00

Wm. Whyte 50.00

Total $3,666.98

Subscriptions Partially Paid.

C. H. Copeland $10.00

C. A. Richardson 2.50

J. H. Alexander 12.50

Miss Creech 5.00

J. C. Huffman 7.50

Rev. C. O. Main 5.00

A. L. Reading 5.00

F. Yeigh 10.15

G. O. Rogers 2.50

Total $60.00

Subscriptions Outstanding.
Unpaid $255.00

C. W. ROWLEY, Hon. Treas.

Glaci

acier

These Famous Resorts for Alpine Climbers

are reached only by the incomparable

trains or tne

Canadian Pacific Railway

ROBERT KERR. Pass. Traffic Mgr.
Montreal, Quebec.

»«^MM>»»»<^^»<M»^^>^»»VS^<»^|»»^*

CANADIAN ALPINE JOURNAL

PtJBLISHED BY THE

Alpine Club of Canada
1910

Printed by the Stovel Co., Winnipeg, Man.

■ !; laSCiaBlfi:'! ■■ Ws.il ■ * -

i,*: , t.>v^ A, I, /v/fr

r^r

THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA

Officers for 1908-1910.

Hon. President
Sib Sandford Fleming, K.C.M.G., Ottawa, Ont.

President
A. P. Coleman, F.R.S., Toronto, Ont.

Yice-Presidents

John D. Patterson, Woodstock, Ont.

M. P. Bridgland, Calgary, Alta.

Eon. Secretary
Mrs. J. W. Henshaw, Vancouver, B. C.

Eon. Treasurer
C. W. Rowley, Calgary, Alta.

Director
A. 0. Wheeler, A.C, F.R.G.S., Banff, Alta.

E RR ATA.

ge 48, sixth line from bottom: "successfully" should read
"unsuccessfully."

iistration facing page 50 should face page 74.

ustration facing page 159 should face page 139.

W. A. Alldritt, 246 Beverly St., Secretary

Calgary

S. L. Jones, Chairman
A. B. Ballentine, Box 1127, Secretary

Vancouver
A. L. Kendall, M.D., Chairman
C. H. GiLLis, Box 490, Secretary

New York
F. W. Freeborn, 306 Halsey St., Brooklyn, Secretary

London, England

Professor Norman Collie, F.R.S., Chairman
A. L. MuMM, 4 Hyde Park St., London, Secretary

j'if.i'. ' -T' .,-71

THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA

Officers for 1908-1910.

Hon. President
SiE Sandford Fleming, K.C.M.G., Ottawa, Ont.

President
A. P. Coleman, F.K.S., Toronto, Ont.

Vice-Presidents

John D. Patterson, Woodstock, Ont.

M. P. Bridgland, Calgary, Alta.

Hon. Secretary
Mrs. J. W. Henshaw, Vancouver, B. C.

Hon. Treasurer
C. W. Rowley, Calgary, Alta.

Director
A. 0. Wheeler, A.C, F.R.G.S., Banff, Alta.

Secretary Treasurer
S. H. Mitchell, Banff, Alta.

Advisers

F. Yeigh, Toronto, Ont.

S. L. Jones, Calgary, Alta.

Rev. G. B. Kinney, Keremeos, B. C.

Local Committees

Toronto
Professor A. P. Coleman, F.R.S., Chairman
C. B. SissoNS, Victoria College, Secretary

Winnipeg
J. B. McLaren, Chairman
W. A. Alldritt, 246 Beverly St., Secretary

Calgary
S. L. Jones, Chairman
A. B. Ballentine, Box 1127, Secretary

Vancouver
A. L. Kendall, M.D., Chairman
C. H. GiLLis, Box 490, Secretary

New York
F. W. Freeborn, 306 Halsey St., Brooklyn, Secretary

London, England
Professor Norman Collie, F.R.S., Chairman
A. L. MuMM, 4 Hyde Park St., London, Secretary

CANADIAN ALPINE JOURNAL

The Publishing Committpc is not rosponsibU^ for statements made
by contril)Utors to the Canadian Alpino Journal.

CONTENTS VOLUME II. NO. 2

MOUNTAINEERING SECTION
An Expedition to Mt. Robson. By A. L. Mumm 1

To The Top of Mount Robson. By G. B. Kinney and Donald

Phillips ' 21

The Ascent of Pinnacle Mountain and Second Ascent of Mount

Daltaform 45

First Ascent of the N. Tower of Mt. Goodsir. By J. P. Forde 61

Further Beyond the Asulkan Pass. By E. W. D. Holway.... 70

Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. By Val. A. Fynn 77

On Mt. Hood. By Frank W. Freeborn 88

The First Traverse of Mt Victoria. By G. W. Culver 92

Over the Wilson and Duchesnay Passes. By Mrs. A. H.

MacCarthy 95

Second Ascent of Mt. Biddle. First Ascent Mt. Victoria By

South Route. By J. P. Forde 99

A Short Trip In The Selkirks. By R. R. Copeland 103

SCIENTIFIC SECTION

Geology and Glacial Features of Mt. Robson. By A. P. Cole-
man 108

An Adventure With An Eruption of Mt. Pelee. By Tempest

Anderson 114

Motion of The Yoho Glacier. .By Arthur 0. WTieeler 121

Observations On Glaciers in 1909. By George Vaux, Jr 126

Botanical Notes
The Arbutus (Arbutus Menziesii). By Juliar W. Henshaw. . . . 131

MISCELLANEOUS SECTION

A Fortnight With The Canadian Alpine Club. By Godfrey A.

Solly 134

Two Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. By E. F. M. MacCarthy

and A. M. Bartleet 143

A Graduating Climb. By Ethel Johns 158

An Afternoon Stroll In The Selkirks. By H. B. Dixon 165

With The Scottish Mountaineering Club at Easter. By G. M.

Smith 172

Mathew Arnold's Alpine Poetry 178

In Memoriam

Hector G. Wheeler, Biographical Sketch 183

Rev. J. C, Herdman, D.D,, Biographical Sketch 185

Alpine Club Notes

On Equipment. By Val. A. Fynn 187

Hints On The Use of The Rope In Mountain Climbing. By

J. P. Forde 191

First Ascent and Traverse of The True Mt. Schaffer. By

Malcolm Goddard 196

The Altitude of Mount Huascaran. By Fanny Bullock Workman 197

Winter Mountaineering at The Coast. By B. S. Darling 198

Revelstoke Mountaineering Club 199

Crowsnest Pass 199

Reviews

Five Months in The Himalaya; My Climbs in The Alps and

Caucasus. By E. P. (Two notable Alpine books.) 200

OFFICIAL SECTION

Report of the Hon. Secretary 205

Report of Librarian 209

Report of 1909 Camp 211

Alpine Club Camp Song. By L. S. Amery 216

Report of Mountaineering 217

Statement of Treasurer 225

Copies of the Canadian Alpine Journal can be obtained from
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CANADIAN ALPINE JOURNAL

PUBLISHED BY

Vol. II. THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA No. 2

MOUNTAINEERING SECTION.

AN EXPEDITION TO MOUNT ROBSON.

By a. L. Mumm.

Fortunately for me, I am under no necessity to
commence this paper with a disquisition on the where-
abouts of Mount Robson, or the attempts made to reach
its summit prior to 1909; neither need I say anything
of the circumstances under which the members of the
expedition which I am about to describe found them-
selves last summer in the Camp at Lake O'Hara. Read-
ers of this journal are already familiar with these mat-
ters and I can, therefore, plunge at once in medias res
with the statement that on Friday, August 6th, Messrs.
L. S. Amery, G. Hastings and I left the camp for Lake
Louise and Laggan via Abbot's Pass, while Moritz
Inderbinen, a Zermatt guide, and my friend and com-

2 Canadian Alpine Journal.

panion in the Alps and elsewhere for more than twenty
years, went round by Hector to see after the luggage.

Amery had already been to Edmonton, in order to
inquire as to the journey thence to Mount Robson,
and. if it seemed possible to get there within a reason-
able time, to make the necessary preparations for the
expedition. The time at his disposal was ridiculously
short, and it reflects great credit on his energy and fore-
sight that his arrangements worked out entirely satis-
factorily. The inconveniences due to the unavoidable
hurry were too trifling to be worth mentioning. Even
he, however, could have scarcely got things in train for
a start on August 8th if it had not been for the assistance
of Mr. M. H. Evans, of Edmonton, for whose kindness
we cannot be suf^ciently grateful.

My ow^n expectations with regard to Mount Robson
had not been pitched very high and when Amery ap-
peared at the Lake O'Hara Camp on Thursday morning,
I had fully expected to hear that it was far too late to
tiy for it, and that he had abandoned the idea. If I had
known my Amery then as well as I do now, I should
have realized that no obstacles deter him when he is
once on the war path. No doubts or hesitations coloured
his reports. I even think, in the first flush of optimism,
he went so far as to say that we might, if all went well,
reach Mount Robson in fourteen or fifteen days from
Edmonton, and turned a deaf ear when Mr. Wheeler
shook a sagacious head and murmured something about
six weeks.

Our adventures began at once ; we missed the after-
noon train at Laggan, reached Calgary at 2 a.m. on
Saturday, and wandered about in the small hours — a
most suspicious looking band, equipped with ruck sacks,
ice-axes and full mountaineering kit — hunting for the
Braemar Lodge Hotel, into which we effected a semi-
burglarious entrance soon after three o'clock. However,

Expedition to Mount Robson. 3

we managed to get on that night to Edmonton where
we found Mr. A. G. Priestly, a friend of Hastings, who
was coming with us in the hope of getting some shooting
in British Columbia; and on Sunday morning at 10 the
party started in two buggies and two democrats for
Wolf Creek.

I could write pages about that drive, the most re-
markable in some respects of all our Canadian experi-
ences. At one time I felt as though the rest of our lives
would be spent in struggling through the Lobstick
woods, and heartily wished that I was in the Yoho Val-
ley with Mr. Wheeler and the rest of our party; however,
Wolf Creek was reached at last, after the longest week
I have ever known. We had expected to get there in
three, or, at most, four days, and it was borne in upon
us that it would be wise to multiply most of our original
time estimates by two or two and a half ; but once fairly
started on the trail, we soon left off worrying about
dates and such like matters and began really to enjoy
ourselves.

Mr. John Yates, of Lac Ste. Anne, was waiting for us
on the Athabaska (this is one of the many things for
which we have to thank Mr. Evans), and I need hardly
say that we could not possibly have been in better hands.
In the rest of our journey over the Yellowhead Pass
there are only two things that call for mention. The
first of these was the news of Mr. Kinney's ascent of
Mount Robson which met us at the ferry above Jasper
Lake on August 23rd. Next day Amery and Hastings
had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Kinney himself and
offering him their congratulations on his gallant achieve-
ment. Surely no mountaineering success was ever more
richly deserved, or won by a finer exhibition of courage,
skill and indomitable perseverance. The other notable
incident was our first view of the summit of Mount Rob-
son which came in sight a few miles above the junction

4 Canadian Alpine Journal.

of the Moose and Fraser Rivers on August 29th. This
is worth recording, inasmuch as it has hitherto been
accepted as a fact that Mount Robson is not visible along
this route until the now well-known view is obtained at
the opening of the Grand Forks Valley.

We camped that night on the bank of the Moose
River, a short distance from the actual junction with the
Fraser, and Yates made a spirited attempt to elucidate
the topography of the Robson massif by means of a map
which he drew on the back of a plate after dinner. The
feature which principally arrested our attention was an
extensive snow plateau above the head of the west fork
of the Moose River, which according to the reports of
Indian hunters was twenty miles across, and which, it
seemed, might afTord a possible route to the base of
Mount Robson.

On August 30th we ascended the Moose Valley and
camped high up on the left bank of the western branch
of the river. A proposal was carried by acclamation that
the 31st should be an off-day; it was the second since
leaving Edmonton, and was so thoroughly appreciated
that I do not think anyone went more than one hundred
yards from the camp. Not very much could be seen of
our surroundings; by far the most prominent object in
the view was a fine glacier at the head of the valley
which strongly drew our attention. It was pretty steep
and much crevassed in places, but there appeared to be
a practicable route up it, and for a party wearing
crampons, a fairly rapid one, to the sky line, beyond
which lay the great snow plateau already referred to.

All of us felt we ought to have a look at the plateau
and Mount Robson without delay, and that the ascent
of the glacier would be a very sporting way of accom-
plishing that object; and Yates proposed that we should
go up the valley as far as possible that afternoon with
ponies and a light tent, but the latter suggestion was

1^0^

Expedition to Mount Rohson. 5

vetoed by Hastings, who holds very pronounced views
as to the desirability of starting from the main camp
whenever practicable. Accordingly we went early to bed,
the alarum being set for 11.45 ; we got off at 12.45 a.m. on
September 1st, and a few minutes later were in the forest.
For about two hours all went well and smoothly ; the
moon shone brightly and there was not much under-
growth. Hastings' lantern appeared to be a veritable
magic lantern, beneath whose beams ways opened up
unexpectedly in the most unpromising places, and I was
mentally composing a panegyric on his sagacity and
unerring instinct for direction when "Hello!" he shouted,
"What's the moon doing over there?" We had curved
round nearly in a half-circle and were heading almost
straight down the valley. Very little ground had been
lost, but from that moment the going became continu-
ously worse and worse; wind-falls beset us unceasingly,
and progress was extremely slow. Finally we emerged
from the woods at about 5 o'clock, and after expending
some time and a vi.st amount of energy in trying to
bridge the river with a tree trunk, continued our way up
the left bank, scrambled through a narrow rocky ravine
out of which it rushed with great violence, and arrived
in a stony flat where we were able to cross fairly easily.

We made a fire and breakfasted in very leisurely
fashion not much troubled by the fact that the distance
from camp as the crow flies was deplorably short. It
was a most interesting place : the glacier was visible from
top to bottom straight ahead of us, and on our left open-
ed the mouth of a deep valley, most of which was hid-
den behind a great rocky spur that descends from the
main ridge to the spot where we were sitting. I was,
and am still, intensely curious as to what that valley
is like, and whether it is possible to ascend to the head
of it. If this can be done one could certainly get down
without serious difficulty on the other side, and this

6 Canadian Alpine Joitrnal.

would make the most direct, and in other respects a
very attractive way of reaching the Robson Glacier. If
I am ever in the Moose Valley again — but we had no
leisure for reflections of that kind, nor did we at that
time know what the other side was like. We started
again at 7.15, reached the glacier — which was farther off
than it looked, after the manner of glaciers — in an hour,
and put on our crampons.

I have worn crampons so seldom that tramping
securely up a steepish slope of hard ice still gives me a
sensation of pleased surprise. We had an enjoyable
spell of it, but presently the crevasses became very
large and labyrinthine, and the passages between them
grew more and more broken and razor-like. A feeling
of amour proprc impelled us to spend some time in a
fruitless effort to force a way through, but eventually
we Avere obliged to take to the rocks and moraine on
the left bank for a short distance. After that it was easy
to cross the glacier above the big crevasses to its right
hand side, w'here snow slopes led upwards till the much
talked of plateau, or a section of it, spread out before us,
falling aw^ay gently to the north.

A precipitous rocky wall, a continuation of the spur
mentioned on page 5, encloses the plateau on the w^est
and blocked us completely in the direction of Mount
Robson, but a gap about a couple ot miles ahead seemed
to hold out a chance of a view. Some distance away to
the right the horizon was bounaed by another much
lower ridge or rocks, only rising slightly above the
snow. Amery and Inderbinen volunteered to go on to
the gap and at 1.30 p.m. w^e separated for a time. They
obtained an excellent view of Mount Robson across
the Robson Glacier which lay immediately below them.
It could be reached from the gap without the slightest
difficulty, so that there is at any rate one direct mountain-
eers' pass from the Moose Valley to that of the Smoky

Expedition to Mount Rohson. 7

River. Some day when the era of the Club huts arrives,
and routes and times are more accurately known, it is
quite likely that energetic climbers will ascend Mount
Robson, making the Moose Valley their starting-point,
but for our purposes it was clear that the distance was
altogether too great.

In the meantime Hastings and I went to the ridge
on the right. Though it is only a break in the plateau,
which extends many miles beyond it, it is sufficiently
elevated to be a remarkably fine view-point. We plodded
through the snow, which was growing softish, for an
hour and a quarter, and Hastings' reason for visiting it —
that he was tired and wanted some rocks to lie down on
— seemed to me singularly inadequate. That, however,
is by the way. The day was an absolutely perfect one,
and we had the rare treat of enjoying an entirely novel
view of great beauty and variety, under conditions abso-
lutely favourable. The summit of Mount Robson rose
grandly above the rock-wall, and a veritable sea of un-
known and unnamed mountains spread around us in all
directions. I managed to photograph somewhat less
than half the panorama; most unluckily, I had not my
full complement of plates with me that day. We rejoin-
ed our companions, who had waited for us for some time
on the snow with exemplary patience, soon after half
past four.

The question when and how we were going to get
back had been exercising my mind for some time, and
now the others began to develop a tardy interest in it
also. I think it was Hastings who suggested that we
should go right round the head of the valley eastward,
follow the hillside above the timber line till we were
above the camp, and then drop straight down to it
through the forest. This was a really brilliant concep-
tion and showed a remarkable grasp of the topographical
conditions. The head of the valley is far wider than ap-

g Canadian Alpine Journal.

pears from the camp, and two other glaciers, about the
same size as the one which had served as a half way in the
morning, descend into it from the plateau. We tried to
get down to the central one, but were pulled up short
by a tremendous precipice and had to retrace our steps
for a considerable distance. (Just at this point there
were numerous caribou tracks on the snow.) An at-
tempt at a short cut to the farthest glacier was also
a failure, and it was finally reached after a circuit at a
very high level round the whole of the head of the valley.
Fortunately the going was excellent ; we raced down it,
got off the ice at 7.30, and hurried over some steep, rough
ground during the last hour of daylight, arriving at the
edge of the forest at 8.30.

And here the strictly alpine interest of this expedi-
tion comes to an end, but I cannot resist dwelling at
some length on the remainder of it, for it is that which
gives it a place apart among all my mountaineering ex-
periences. It was now about nine hours since we had
had a square meal; the place was pleasantly sheltered,
with fuel and water at hand; so a fire was lighted, and
we prepared to consume, luxuriously and leisurely, the
rest of our provisions. As the moon could be relied upon
for hours and it was not very material whether we got
back to camp at 1 or 2 a.m., we reposed till 11, and then
started upwards through the forest, looking forward
cheerfully to an easy walk of a couple of hours or so,
and, incidentally, to a magnificent moonlight view of
Mount Robson. But a Canadian forest is not so easily
circumvented. We had not been going long when the
trees ended abruptly, and we found ourselves looking
across a gap, which descended very nearly to the valley
floor. It was perhaps eighty to a hundred yards broad
at this point— but it is difficult to give more than a very
vague estimate— and was entirely filled by an immense
smooth slab of gray rock, stretching upwards for many

Expedition to Mount Robson. 9

hundreds, perhaps thousands of feet, and without a
sign of a break in its slippery cast-iron surface. I
should not like to assert that to get across it would have
been absolutely impossible, but it was anything but a
tempting route, especially in that light, and after a
futile explosion of disgust, we proceeded, with some-
what rufBed feelings, to go down. A crack saved us
from going the whole way to the bottom, and once
more we started hopefully upwards.

Not many minutes had gone by when the trees
appeared to be getting ominously thinner again. Could
it be another slab? The thought was too horrible. But
another slab it was, as hard and smooth and forbidding
as the first one. This time we fairly owned ourselves
beaten ; it was no use contending with a forest that could
produce obstacles of this kind, and there might be more
to come, for aught we knew. So, too subdued in spirit
to use bad language we went down, right down to the
bottom this time, and swallowed the unpalatable fact
that the morning's performance would have to be gone
through again, only at considerably greater length.

While we were descending the second gap there
came, as if in mockery, a really wonderful glimpse of
Mount Robson, gleaming silvery in the moonshine; and
that as far as I was concerned, and I think I may say
the same for the others, was the last occasion on which
we took the slightest notice of anything but what was
immediately in front ot us. That was what made the
whole thing such a nightmare, the absolute compulsion
to attend, ceaselessly, unremittingly to what one was
doing and where one was putting one's feet. Mere
walking would have been, relatively, delightful, but
walking there was practically none, only clambering,
crawling, balancing, dodging, through the unending
complexities of almost continuous windfalls. Once a
tremendous roar ahead of us announced that we were

10 Canadian Alpine Journal.

coming to a torrent, one that wc must have passed in
the morning on the level, and forgotten. Great trees
made the passage easy, and we rested thankfully for a
few moments on the far bank, and drank some of the
ice-cold water. Then on again, and a yet louder roar
told us that we were on an island with the larger branch
of the stream still in front of us. A single tree trunk
bridged it. I saw Hastings and Amery pause and speak
for a moment, then walk over with apparent unconcern.
Inderbinen followed ; in ordinary circumstances he
would have been looking round the instant he reached
the other side, to make sure that all was well with me
and to offer me the end of his ice axe; but now he walk-
ed stolidly on without a single glance behind him. I
looked at the bridge and the raging flood below and —
crawled over on my hands and knees. "Will you walk
over if I do?" — "All right." This, I learned later was
the conversation which had taken place between Hast-
ings and Amery. I can recall no other incident, scarcely
another remark, save when at intervals Amery or I called
for a halt because one of our puttees was coming undone.
Once, when we had reached the more open forest, I sud-
denly saw four ponies. They were in a most improbable
place, and I knew they could not be our ponies because
one of them was a bright strawberry color quite unlike
any of ours, or I should think any cayuse that ever lived,
but I accepted them without surprise, as one accepts
strange things in dreams, and watched them for what
appeared to be quite a long time before they resolved
themselves into bushes and scrub.

But all things come to an end at last, and towards
6 o'clock there appeared, first, some ponies that were
indubitably real ones, and then, the tents. We were
really back again after an absence of just over 29 hours, a
record for me, and I sincerely hope it will remain so, but
Hastings beats it easily with an outing of 35 hours on
Nanga Parbat.

Expedition to Mount Rob son. 11

A dozen times during that unspeakable night I had
made unalterable resolutions that nothing should induce
me to move another step in the direction of Mount Rob-
son, but they melted away as such resolutions will, and
at tea that afternoon it was decided ncni. con. to proceed
thither at once. We started for the east fork of the
Moose River next morning and at 3 o'clock on September
5th, Yates brought us to the camping-place of the Rob-
son Glacier where he had established Messrs. Kinney
and A. P. and L. Q. Coleman almost exactly twelve
months before. It was twenty-nine days since we left
Edmonton, and on twenty-five of them we had been on
the march.

On this last day, as there was only a short distance
to be covered, Yates took us over a spur overlooking
the Smoky River Valley at a point considerably higher
than it was actually necessary to go, in order that we
might enjoy to the full the view of the whole mass of
Mount Robson. A superb view it was, and we incon-
tinently resolved co make an attempt on that side of the
mountain without delay, being urged thereto by the
weightiest of all possible reasons, namely, that Mr.
Kinney had been up the other one.

Mount Robson on this eastern side presents a most
uncompromising front. If we could once get to the top
of that long wall running from the summit southward,
though to follow the crest to the highest point might
perhaps not be perfectly easy throughout, we could see
nothing to suggest obstacles that were likely to prove
insurmountable. But the scaling of the wall itself —
that unquestionably would be by far the most difficult
portion of the route, and any estimate worth having of
the chances of succeeding there could only be obtained
on closer inspection. From the spot where we were
standing one could see a beautiful snowy col at the head
of the Robson Glacier, and our first idea, hastily formed

12 Canadian Alpine Journal.

and subject of course to revision, was that the best way
to get at the wall would be to ascend to the col, and
from there to go along what appeared to be a continuous
snow terrace running towards and along the base. At
that time we had not seen any account of the attempts
made on this side by the 1908 party, and I do not think
that we had realized that Yates had taken part in them.
On the following morning we walked up the glacier
as far as a conspicuous mass of rock named by our pre-
decessors "the Extinguisher," and carefully examined the
proposed route. We now learned for the first time from
Yates, who came with us, that he, Mr. Kinney and the
brothers Coleman had elTected a direct passage to the
base of the wall through a tumbled mass of snow and
glacier which intervenes between it and the floor of the
main glacier and is held up by a snow capped buttress to
which he gave the name of "the Helmet." This was
clearly a much shorter way than ours, and we resolved
to try it. Some of the next day's provisions were de-
posited under a stone and we returned, well satisfied
with our reconnaissance. Inderbinen was extraordinar-
ily sanguine, and went so far as to express the opinion
that we should reach the top in nine hours.

That afternoon we had a little surprise. I must
retrace my steps here for a moment to explain that
Amery, not content with organizing our own expedition
at lightning speed, had also been making arrangements
for his brother (who, when we arrived at Quebec, was
just starting on his way home on leave from the Sudan),
to follow on after us a quickly as possible. With this
object in view he had been keeping up a dropping fire
of letters and telegrams in all directions ever since his
arrival in Canada. His plans, in this as in all other re-
spects, worked out with machine-like precision, and
about 2 o'clock, two or three days before we had begun
to look out for them, Captain Amery and his outfit ar-

Expedition to Mount Rohson. 13

rived. With a single halt of forty-eight hours in London,
he had travelled straight through from Khartum.

On September 7th Amery, Hastings, Inderbinen
and I started at 1.15 a.m., and in twenty minutes we had
got our crampons on and taken to the ice. I could scarce-
ly believe that after all these weeks we were actually
starting for Mount Robson. Would we really get up, I
wondered ; I had not fully realized till then how intense-
ly eager I was to do so. The night was starry and for
some time remained clear; the only disturbing element
in the situation was that it was preposterously warm —
always an ominous sign. However, one could but hope
that the wonderful weather we had been enjoying would
hold out for twenty-four hours more. There was con-
siderable difficulty in finding the cache of provisions.
In the day time it had seemed as if we could not possibly
miss it, but the look of everything was completely trans-
formed by moonlight, and we did not hit off the place
till past 4. After a halt and a second breakfast, we went
up a sort of huge step in the main glacier, and in a little
over an hour came to the point where the real ascent
begins. Here Hastings announced that he could not
keep his eyes open any longer and positively must have
half an hour's sleep. There were no rocks for him to lie
down on here, but he seemed to manage very well on
the ice, and presently rose like a giant refreshed. We
roped, Inderbinen leading, and set off again at 6.30. And
now the evil effects of the abnormal warmth made them-
selves felt. Twenty-four hours earlier when we were
starting up the glacier, the air haa still been cold, and
the surface of the ice as hard as iron, but now a warm
wind, like the Fohn, was blowing, and the snow was in
the worst condition possible, crusted on the top and just
not firm enough to bear. Going was slow, and very
laborious, Inderbinen especially having an immense
amount of hard work to do in making the steps. I have

14 Cauadian Alpine Journal.

kept no record of how long this continued, hut it must
have cost us a great deal of extra time, and at the earliest
possible moment we swerved off to the left and took to
the rocky side of the Helmet. This was much pleasanter
than the snow, but the slope was very steep and a certain
amount of zigzagging was necessary. It was 10 o'clock
when we reached the topmost ledge of rock, and halted
for another meal ; at half past we walked over the dome-
shaped top of the Helmet into the snowy trough which
lies between it and the great eastern wall.

This, if I have rightly understood Mr. Kinney's
description was the farthest point reached in 1908. His
party went as far as the edge of the bergschrund which
runs along the base of the wall but did not cross it. I
think they intended to ascend entirely by the snow, a
short distance to the right (as one faces the wall) of
w^here the rocks cease to appear. This had also been our
intention at first, but after a short inspection at closer
quarters, a slight change of plan was decided upon.
From a distance the rocks look Hke belts running hori-
zontally along the face of the wall, alternating with
bands of snow, but we could now make out a fairly well
defined rib, descending to within perhaps two or three
hundred feet of the bergschrund with a slight downward
trend from right to left, which seemed to provide a
route with a decidedly easier gradient, to within a short
distance of the sky-line.

I think it was then about 11 o'clock. There was no
bridge over the bergschrund, but it was not very broad,
and Inderbinen managed to cut himself a precarious
foothold on the far side, and there laboriously hewed and
hacked away a space sufficient to enable him to clamber
out on the snow slope above its upper lip. It was a
difficult task, cleverly performed. The rest of us fol-
lowed comparatively quickly. The snow here was in
fairly good order; it was one of those very steep slopes

Expedition to Momit Robson. 15

where one's main preoccupation is the question: what
will it be like coming down? — and the steps are made
very large and treated with tender consideration. When
we arrived at the rocks there was a comfortable feeling
in the air that things were going well, but it did not sur-
vive very long. Progress was slower than had been
anticipated. We kept to the rib where we could, but
spent most of our time in the gully ; for the rib bounded
a gully or chimney, inconspicuous from below but con-
tinuous and well marked when one got close to it. In-
side the gully the rocks were loose and rotten, and a suc-
cession of troublesome places occurred, in which one
used one's knees a great deal and never got a really good
hand-hold. And the melting snow made it slippery,
soppy work. Those who frequent the English Lakes at
Christmas or a snowy Easter know the kind of thing I
am trying to describe, but they do not get it in such
large doses.

We gained ground steadily though slowly, and at
length found ourselves on a band of snow, or rather ice
with a thin covering of snow over it, above which was
another belt of rock, the last one, and then another band
of snow of which the sky-line was the upper boundary.
Looking up and down for a moment while Inderbinen
was step-cutting, I was tremendously impressed by the
continuous steepness of the climb. The slope on which
we were standing was perhaps the steepest, and in
Inderbinen's opinion it was the nastiest bit that we had
yet encountered, and the rocky belt above appeared liter-
ally to overhang, like the eaves of a roof. However, it
was not very far ofif, and a little to our left a narrow
neck in the line of rocks seemed to promise access to the
final snow slope.

We had pulled up for a minute or two to discuss this
matter when a breeze blew down the slope and struck
me chill. I was soaking wet, and for some time the sun,

16 Canadian Alpine Journal.

though still high, had been completely hidden from us
behind Mount Robson. Moreover, the sky was no longer
clear, and it suddenly struck me as highly probable that
Ave should get no more sunshine that day — a depressing
thought, which prompted me, for the first time since we
had started on the ascent of the face, to look at my
watch. It was nearly 2 o'clock. An hour more to the
crest (Inderbinen had just volunteered this estimate)
and then some little halt for food was really imperative.
And then — well, yesterday we had reckoned that after
reaching the crest we could follow it to the summit in
two hours, but somehow our guesses at times had not so
far proved very reliable, and even if this one did not
turn out to be immoderately sanguine, it would be 5.30
at least before we reached the top. Once this train of
calculation was started, it became alarmingly obvious
that there was not the faintest chance of our getting back
to the bottom of the wall before dark, and that meant
spending the night either on the ridge itself or some-
where on the face of the wall, not far below where we
were now standing. I confess I was appalled by the
prospect, and lost no time in announcing, apologetically
but firmly, that nothing would induce me to face either
alternative.

Amery's gentle accents floated up to me from be-
low : — "You only want a rest, Mumm, we'll be on the
ridge in half an hour and we can stop a bit and have
something to eat and you'll be all right." This remark
was meant to be soothing, and like most remarks made
with that amiable object, it produced exactly the opposite
effect to the one intended. I replied rather tartly that as
far as grind was concerned, I was quite ready to go on
for another six hours, but spend the night on the ridge
or on the face I would NOT! It was a bitter moment
for Amery; "Well, at any rate," he pleaded, "let us
go on to the sky line; we must have another try, and

A. L. Mumm, Photo

CAMP AT SWIFTS

.4. L. Mil in III, i'liiiin

CAMP AT PRAIRIE CREEK

.-1. L. Mui/uii. Plioto

ALPINE CLUB PARTY
Camp at Foot of Robson Glacier

Expedition to Mount Robson. 17

it. will be useful to know what it's like on the top." But
Hastings too had been making calculations, and pointed
out that if we abandoned the attempt to reach the sum-
mit, it was certainly not worth while spending a night
out for any lesser object, and there was no margin of
time left to play with if we meant to get back to the
main Robson Glacier before dark. So rather gloomily
we turned to the right about, and without shifting our
places began the descent, Amery leading.

We had scarcely started when a tremendous bang
and crash made everyone stop and look round hastily over
his right shoulder. A number of blocks of ice, some of
them the size of a man's head were just shooting through
the narrow neck in the rock belt which had been selected
as the best line of ascent, and an instant later came
hurtling down the snow into the gully. Before anyone
had moved or spoken another crash above heralded a
second discharge. This one consisted of a mixture of
ice and rocks and followed the same course as the other.
They passed within a few feet of us, but nothing came
our way. Very little was said, indeed there was little
to say. "We should all have been kilt," Inderbinen
observed thoughtfully, a few minutes later (he meant,
if we had gone on in the direction originally intended),
and that practically exhausted the subject. We went
down as fast as we could, which was not very fast, only
stopping once on a ledge well out on the rib for a short
and very welcome rest during which we finished the
small store of provisions, that had been brought thus far.
I could not help looking back occasionally at an icy
tusk which rose, disagreeably conspicuous, against the
sky. Its twin must have furnished the materials for the
avalanche. But nothing more came down and we were
safely over the bergschrund by 5 o'clock. It was the
mild night and that abominable warm wind in the morn-
ing that caused the mischief; I believe it would have been

18 Canadian Alpine Journal.

perfectly safe the day before, but i must admit that we
had no business to be in that place on that afternoon.

\\'e had resolved while descending to make the re-
turn journey by way of the snowy pass at the head of
the Robson glacier — the route which had been provision-
ally chosen two days before — instead of repeating the
lone climb over the Helmet, so we now walked down
the snowy trough, past the Helmet and past the end of
the eastern wall, which terminates in a tremendous al-
most vertical precipice several hundred feet in height.
Here the floor of the trough took a rapid downward
slope and disappeared from view, clearly in the form of
a pretty steep glacier, too steep to try without previous
examination at that hour of the afternoon. On our right
between the great precipice and the col were a succession
of towers or teeth forty to fifty feet high, covered with
snow on the side nearest us, sreep and rocky on the
other. Amery and Hastings got over to the far side of
the first one, and announced that all was well so far as
they could see.

The surrounding scenery here merited more attention
than we could well spare, especially the new world of
mountains which suddenly became visible to the west
and south-west. I noted one great mass of peaks which
looked to me very high indeed, higher than anything
in our neighbourhood except Mount Robson itself, and
carried extensive snowfields and glaciers on their flanks.
They might have been any distance from 40 to 60 miles
away, and I have not been able to identify them on any
map. But I was less interested in them at the time than
in the question whether we should get to the col and
down to the lower levels of the Robson Glacier while
daylight lasted. We were still a considerable height
above the col and as each successive tower was sur-
mounted or turned, there was a moment's anxiety as to
whether it would "go" on the other side. Not till the

Expedition to Mount Rob son. 19

last fifty feet of the descent did we see our way clear
before us, and, on the other side of the col, a comfortable
slope of neve leading down to the head of the glacier.
We raced over the col, without stopping to inspect the
descent towards the Grand Forks Valley, and round to
the opposite side, and felt that for the first time we were
really "out of the wood." We did then pause for a mo-
ment to look at the glacier which leads up to, or down
from, the lower end of the trough between the eastern
wall and the Helmet; its ascent is quite practicable, and
it thus provides a third route, and the best and quickest
one, to the base of the wall.

Inderbinen took the lead again at this point, and
trotting down with admirable decision and rapidity,
landed us safely on the lower level of the glacier with
a good half hour of daylight on hand ; the Extinguisher
was reached just as darkness fell. We rested and took
things easily here for a time, feeling that we were to all in-
tents and purposes at home, and were rather taken aback
when we rose to begin the last stage of the journey, by
the discovery that it was absolutely pitch dark. Hast-
ings had hardly got out his compass and started when
rain began to fall heavily, and presently there came a
vivid lightning flash, followed by a reverberating crash
of thunder; it really looked for a time as though the day's
adventures were not yet over. However Mount Robson
was only having a last bit of fun with us and did not
really mean mischief. Only the outer fringe of the
thunderstorm reached us, and the rain after cominc;
down in torrents for a spell, gradually abated its violence.
For the rest, I was so well satisfied to have got thus far.
that I accepted quite cheerfully the prospect of perambu-
lating slowly in Hastings' wake for the remainder of the
night and hopping at intervals over small crevasses. But
things did not come to that pass; after a couple of hours
the clouds lifted a little and we could see where we were.

20 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Hastings had steered with wonderful accuracy and in
a few minutes the surface of the glacier began to slope
gently downwards; we had reached the snout. By 11.30
we were in camp and Captain Amery emerged in pyjamas
to join us in a final supper. So ended an eventful and
memorable day.

Though we had failed and began the homeward
journey with a rankling sense of defeat, we had at least
made the most of our one and only opportunity. Rain fell
almost continuously on the 8th, 9th and 10th of September
and the 11th showed little sign of any lasting improve-
ment ; it was clear that the season for high climbing was
over, so Captain Amery started with Yates for Tete
Jaune Cache, he and his brother having arranged to com-
plete their trip by a journey in a canoe down the Fraser,
and so round to Ashcroft. On the 12th the whole camp
broke up ; Amery went off with Keller, the owner of the
canoe, down the Grand Forks Valley to the Fraser, where
they joined the rest of their party two or three days later.
I believe they were the first people to make the complete
circuit of Mount Robson. The rest of us started on the
back trail. We reached Entwistle without any incident
worthy of record on September 30th and set ofif by train
the same night for Edmonton where we arrived at 10 a.m.
on October 1st, being probably the first pleasure party
to travel by the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway.

To the Top of Mount Robson. • 21

TO THE TOP OF MOUNT ROBSON.

Told by Kinney and Phillips.

Narrative by Rev. G. Kinney.

"Give me your hand, Curlie." "I'll give you my
sock," says Curlie. Thrusting into my mittened hand
his gloved one, over which he had pulled a woollen sock
for better warmth, Donald Phillips and I congratulated
each other on at last succeeding in capturing that most
difficult peak, Mt. Robson. We stood on the needle point
of the highest and finest peak of all the Canadian
Rockies, and the day was Friday, August the thirteenth,
1909.

I doubt if ever a peak was fought for more des-
perately, or captured under greater difficulties, than was
that of Mt. Robson. Situated in the heart of the Rockies,
some fifty miles or more north of the Yellowhead Pass,
and hundreds of miles from civilization, the mountain
could only be reached by pack-train after long weeks
of strenuous effort, through trackless forest and muskeg,
by nameless mountains and raging torrents. And I have
the honor of being the first white man ever known to
have stood on its ragged sides.

Dr. A. P. Coleman, Geologist of the University of
Toronto organized an expedition in 1907 to capture Mt.
Robson. The party consisted of the Doctor and his
brother, L. Q. Coleman, myself and a helper. The four
of us, with our pack-train of ten horses and outfit, left
Laggan, August 2nd, 1907. We followed the Pipestone,
Siffleur, Saskatchewan and Athabasca Rivers; crossing
the Pipestone and Wilcox Passes. For weeks we made
our own trails through the wilds, and forced our way

22 Canadian Alpine Journal.

through hundreds of miles of tangled underwood. We
rested our weary limbs by many a beautiful lake and
babbling- brooklet, while our camp-fires lit the dark
shadows of ravine and cliff. Rafting our stuff oyer the
mighty Athabaska, across which we had to swim our
hordes, we hurried over the Yellowhead Pass, and swung
down the Fraser. But our trip that year left Mt. Robson
still unconquered, though we explored its western side,
and I discovered Mt. Turner and "The Valley of a Thou-
sand Falls."

Smarting under our former failure, the three of us
renewed our attack in August, 1908. This time Dr. Cole-
man got John Yates, an experienced packer to take us
in charge. Going in by way of Edmonton, we followed
very nearly the route the Grand Trunk is now taking,
and crossed the Yellowhead and followed down the
Fraser as far as the Moose River, a tributary of the lat-
ter. This time we attacked Mt. Robson from the east
side, by tracing the Moose River to its source and then
a branch of the Smoky. But the story of our desperate
f^ght for the peak of Mt. Robson that fall is briefly told
in the Alpine Journal of 1909. The region for miles
around this splendid peak was explored, and many peaks
captured all about it. The mountain itself was attempt-
ed on several occasions, but the difficulties being too
much for us, we had to give it up, after spending twenty
days at its foot.

I left the mountain that fall, believing that I had
had my last try at it. But by the time the next spring
had come, Mt. Robson had such a hold upon me that I
could not rest satisfied until I had had another try at it.
I again made arrangements with John Yates for the trip,
and planned to be at Mt. Robson several weeks earlier
than the year before. In May I received word that foreign
parties had designs upon the mountain. Telegraphing
Yates that I was starting at once and expected to meet

To the Top of Mount Robson. 23

him on the trail, I hurriedly borrowed some money and,
the second of June, 1909, left Victoria for Edmonton to
outfit an expedition of my own. I had counted on one
of my brothers making the trip with me, but at the last
moment he could not get away. At Calgary, the Presi-
dent being absent, I could not accept the grant of a
hundred dollars, that the Alpine Club had so generously
made me. because I was at that time alone and could get
no one to make the trip with me. At Edmonton, money
that I had expected to be at the bank for me failed to
materialize, and a letter of introduction that would have
made matters easy had been misplaced. I was in Ed-
monton about a week before I finall}^ got my outfit to-
gether. That week's delay nearly cost me the prize, for
by it I got caught in the floods of the Athabaska. An-
other disappointment, in the shape of a letter from Yates,
awaited me in Edmonton, telling me it would be utter
folly to think of starting on a trip to Mt. Robson at that
time, for a very late spring had left the mountains and
passes full of snow. But I had gone too far to back out
then, and snow or no snow I would make the attempt.
On Friday, June 11th, with only two dollars and eighty-
five cents in my pocket, but with three good horses pack-
ed with three months provisions, 1 started off alone for
Mt. Robson, hoping to pick up someone on the trail who
would share fortune with me. For hundreds of miles
across the prairies and through mountain vastnesses I
fought alone the fearful difficulties of that trip, threading
my way across treacherous bog, or swimming my horses
across mountain torrents. On the McLeod River I
picked up an old-timer, who wanted to go along with
me. Selling him one of my horses and half of my pro-
visions we shared together, for a few days the joys and
hardships of the trail. But the dangers of the trip and
the floods of the Athabaska were too much for him, so
he dropped out and I was alone again with only two

24 Canadian Alpine Journal.

horses. I nearly lost my whole outfit in the swollen
Rocky River, and my saddle-horse and I had to swim for
our lives. Then a mighty cloud-burst flooded the entire
valley of the Athabaska. beyond anything ever known in
those parts before, leaving me stranded on a little island,
and my horses on another, in the midst of those swollen
waters. On that occasion I had to shift camp three times,
wading waist deep through the raging waters, carrying
my provisions and outfit on my back to a place of safety.
The floods not only made the rivers impassable, but also
the small streams as well, so that I had to make a trail
over dangerous mountain sides. When I reached John
Moberly's, the half-breed's place where I expected to
swim my horses across the Athabaska, I found several
parties of Indians and prospectors held up by the floods.
That night the Indian dogs stole all my store of bacon.
To make matters worse the Indians had no pemmican,
and all I could buy to replace my stolen meat was a can
of lard.

It was at this place, and on tne following day, that
Donald Phillips rode into camp, wearing on his Stetson
hat the silver badge of the Guides' Association of
Ontario. Phillips, a sturdy youth of twenty-five was
looking up the country for future guiding purposes and
I soon had him interested in Mt. Robson. He was on
his way back for provisions and had his camp on a little
island, half a day's ride down the Athabaska, where he,
too, had been caught in the floods.

Narrative by Donald Phillips.

In July of the year 1909 I was out on a prospecting
trip in the mountains along the Athabaska River and its
tributaries. On the 6th of July I got marooned by the
floods that followed a big cloud-burst, and for six days
I had to stav on a small sand-dune island about a mile

To the Top of Mount Robson. 25

above Jasper Lake. On July 11th the floods had gone
down quite a lot but the water was still pretty high in
the Athabaska. As I was becoming pretty tired of my
little sand-dune I thought I would try to get as far as
John Moberly's, a half-breed Cree who lived about six
miles further up the river, so I took my saddle horse
and started on what to me was an unknown trail, that
in places was flooded for half a mile with muddy water.
However, my little saddle mare behaved fine and took
everything I put her at, and three times she had to swim
while crossing creeks.

I arrived at John Moberly's about noon. John told
me that there were three white men camped just above
his house, so I went up to see if it might be anyone that
I knew. In this I was disappointed as all three were
total strangers to me, but acquaintances and friendships
are easily made out in this country and I soon learned
that two of the part}^ were from Chicago and had been
on a prospecting trip down to Tete Jaune Cache on the
Fraser and were now returning to Edmonton. The third
member of the party turned out to be the Rev. Geo.
Kinney, of Victoria, B.C., a member of the Alpine Club
of Canada, who was on his way all alone to Mt. Robson,
which it was his purpose to climb. He was in rather
tough luck just then, for an old chap he had picked up
at Medicine Lodge on the McLeod River, and who was
going along for company and to see the country, had got
"cold feet" when the floods struck them at Rocky River,
where they nearly drowned a fine saddle horse and lost
part of their outfit, in fact did lose their only tent and the
tripod for Kinney's camera; so that when they reached
White Fish Creek, about the middle of Jasper Lake, Mr.
McBride decided that to go back was his forte, especially
as a breed had told them that there were several more
creeks that were backed up from the Athabaska and the
horses would have to swim. Therefore, making a divi-

26 Canadian Alpine Journal.

sion of the grub, they had parted. Mr. Kinney then fol-
lowed some breeds over a rough high-water trail and got
to John Moberly's where he decided to lay over a few
days and let the water go down before he started again.
Here the Nichi dogs ate up all the bacon he had while
away from his camp, which consisted of a six by twelve
feet strip of balloon silk stretched over a ridge pole, a
rather disagreeable shelter during a driving rain or while
the mosquitoes were bad.

Mr. Kinney was very anxious that I should go with
him to Mt. Robson ; and so persistent was he that by the
time I was ready to return to camp he had persuaded me
to accompany him on the trip. He rode and swam
back with me to my camp that night, and the next day
we got my outfit across Jack Creek in an old dugout
canoe to a place where we could reach the high-water
trail. We then swam the horses over, packed up and
arrived again at Moberly's by noon in a drizzling rain
and about frozen stiff. The two Chicago fellows, with
genuine mountain hospitality, invited us to have dinner
with them as soon as we had got our horses unpacked
and the saddles off. Dinner over, we got our camp up
and spread out our pack covers and saddle blankets to
dry as the sun had put in an appearance. That night
we all attended a "tea dance" at one of the tepees and
while we were away one of John's cows ate up two cakes
of soap and a couple of gunny sacks at our camp. John's
cows have better appetites than an army mule or an
ostrich. The following day we got John to ferry our
duffle across the river in his big dugout canoe and then
swam our horses across. After packing up we went
about a mile to Mr. Swift's tony ranch and farm. It is
custom.ary to stop over a day at Swift's, as this is the
last of civilization. But alas for Swift ! his big day is
now past ; for the coming of the railroad brings a change
over all the old ways and good old days of the pack
trail.

To the Top of Mount Robson. 27

During the afternoon while I stayed in camp and
did some cooking, Mr. Kinney went out and picked
enough wild strawberries for supper. The next morn-
ing, after getting a few supplies from Swift and a couple
of pecks of potatoes, we started westward and camped
early at Caledonia Creek, the first tributary of the Miette
River. In a little lake at the head of the creek, about a
mile from camp, we caught some forty rainbow trout.
Here I first learned that Mr. Kinney was a preacher, for
at the lake he met two prospectors and one of them asked
him if the preacher that was with Dr. Coleman's party
had got "cold feet." This was too good for Mr. Kinney
to keep and he had to tell me about it when he came back
to camp. Of course, after that, I had to lay aside any
superfluous language that comes in handy to a fellow
driving pack horses or doing other ornery jobs where
patience becomes a burden.

The following day we made to Dominion Prairie,
some four miles from the Yellowhead Pass, having cov-
ered about twelve miles that day over the worst trail
that I have ever experienced. The trail is bad at the
best of times but the cloud-burst had flooded the whole
river bottom and left a foot or two of mud, so that we
had to stay in the saddle all the time ; and the mosquitoes
were about as thick as the mud. The next day we made
a short drive to a nice camping ground midway along
Yellowhead Lake. A short drive again on the following
day, which was Saturday, and we camped a mile west
of Grant Creek, the first large creek running into the
Fraser west of Yellowhead River. Here we camped
over Sunday. By this time I had got Mr. Kinney's
grubstake sized up and could see that we were going to
be short of provisions. He had assured me before start-
ing that he had plenty of provisions for the trip. I had
but a scant month's grub myself when I met him and
had intended to go in for more in a couple of weeks.

28 Canadian Alpine Journal.

And now we were on the trail with a short month's grub-
stake and the chances looked to me that we might be a
good deal longer than a month out. But as we had a
rifle along I wasn't a bit alarmed at the shortage and
decided that as goats were plentiful I would have a try
for one while we laid over Sunday. Luck was against
me, however, for it snowed all Saturday night and Sun-
day morning and the alps where the goats generally
stay were covered with snow, and, although I spent the
whole day up there in the cold, all I saw was one marmot
whistler.

Monday we did not find our horses until noon and
got a very late start. We found the water in the Moose
River low enough to ford without getting anything wet
but our feet. The party we met at Caledonia Creek had
lost most of their outfit in this river a few days previous.
A mile further west we turned off the Eraser River trail
and headed north up the Moose River Valley. The
only sign of a trail from then on was an occasional blaze
on a tree, but the logs and windfalls were more than
occasional ; they were continuous. Packs had to be over-
hauled and ropes tightened before we had nicely got
started and in the course of the next mile or so we had
to repack Mr. Kinney's pack-horse three times. The
horse was failing and the cinches were up to the last
notch, so at the top of the hill where the feed was good
w^e camped; as we had lost so much time already that
day that we could not hope to make the first camping
ground up the Moose. After putting up camp, Mr.
Kinney went out to pick wild strawberries for supper
while I cooked up the next day's supply of food and
refitted his pack saddle.

Getting a good start next morning we dinnered at
the camping place that we had intended to make the day
before. That afternoon we passed the forks of the
Moose and some beautiful falls and camped at night on

To the Top of Mount Robson. 29

a big grassy shingle flat well up the next branch of the
Moose River. A tempting valley and a big glacier in-
vited exploration but our time was limited, and the next
morning- we struck into the woods eastward over to the
last branch of the Moose. Up this east branch we
travelled all day, stopping for noon where we lost the
trail and had to cut through a half mile of brule. After
dinner the trail kept getting worse. There were no
signs of anyone ever having travelled on that side of the
river and we could not cross as the water was too deep
to ford. All the afternoon we pushed through brush,
fallen timber and wet muskegs where the mosquitoes
nearly devoured us alive. Just before dark we found a
place that was above water level and camped for the
night. The next forenoon we made nearly to the summit
of the Moose Pass by noon and while eating dinner it
started to rain. The rain continued most of the after-
noon so that we did not again go on but camped there
over night without stretching the tent. We were at tree
line and could get no tent poles, so just tied the tent up
as a "lean-to" between some stunted spruces. The next
day was fine and showed up to advantage the beautiful
grassy slopes and alps of the pass, and the pretty little
parks at both end of it at tree line. Crossing the summit
we encountered a lot of rock slides and much avalanche
snow. The snow was hard, and good going for the
horses, but the rock slides were bad. At the northern
slope of the pass we struck the head-waters of the Big
Smoky River. Just as we got below tree line again we
came up close to a big bull caribou. Here was our
chance to replenish our larder. Mr. Kinney dismounted,
got his rifle unfastened from the side of the saddle and
shot at the caribou, which was less than fifty yards away,
and scored a clean miss. "Here," he says, "you shoot."
I took the rifle, dropped on one knee and fired nine shots
while that caribou trotted up towards us and stampeded
our horses. Then he seemed to lose interest in the show

30 Canadian Alpine Journal.

and departed. On examination of the rillc we found
the barrel had got bent about a quarter of an inch out
of true. I was too disgusted to even swear and wanted
to kick- myself for not bringing my own rifle along in-
stead of caching it at Moberly's. We saw two more
caribou in the next mile but didn't bother them. We
didn't think that they would like to be shot at with a
crooked gun.

That afternoon we got our first view of Mt. Robson
and the same evening camped at the lower end of Lake
Adolphus, four miles from its base. Next morning we
traversed the shore of Lake Adolphus and the big
shingle bar at the foot of Mt. Robson Glacier where both
the Smoky River and the Grand Forks find their source.
Past Berg Lake, which is ever full of ice-bergs, that day
and night, all summer long, continually keep breaking off
the glacier that overhang the waters of the lake. Down
they go with great splashes and reports like cannon.
Close to the river, on a bench at the foot of Mt. Robson,
we erected our silk tent, to be our home and shelter
until we should scale the heights and stand on the sum-
mit of the lofty peak of Mt. Robson. Sunday, July 25th,
we stayed around camp and rested for our climb on
Monday. From our camp we picked out what looked
like a pretty easy route up the first tier of cliffs. During
the afternoon we heard a great rumbling and roaring
and, looking across the valley of the Grand Forks to a
lofty mountain several miles away, we saw a big aval-
anche descend from near the summit to a glacier below.
The sight was grand indeed.

Narrative by Rev. G. Kinney.

From where we camped, Mt. Robson rose in one
sheer unbroken wall from base to highest summit, and
at such a fearful angle that a snow cornice, breaking off

To the Top of Mount Robson. 31

the crest, would fall seven thousand feet before it could
come to a stop. Yet we spent no time looking for a
chance to climb, for I knew of a narrow rugged way up
those walls of rock and crumbling ledges that I had
found the year before. Monday afternoon, with fifty
pound packs on our backs, we worked our way up the
cliffs and narrow ledges of that north shoulder of Mt.
Robson, till we climbed its summit and reached the big
shale slope on the northwest side of the mountain at
about 9,500 ft, altitude. There in the shelter of "Island
Cliff," an isolated wall of rock on the shale slope, we
spread our blankets and watched the setting sun paint
a wonder-world with its glorious colors. We called that
spot "Camp High Up." At sunrise next morning we
started enthusiastically for the peak. The year before I
had crossed alone that shale slope to a big shoulder of
cliff, nearly a mile to the south, and then in a blizzard
had climbed some five hundred feet of cliff, till my
aneroid read 10,500 ft. The storm was so thick that I
could see no distance ; but from photographs that I had
taken of the western side, I believed it possible to make
the peak, if that shoulder on the west could be climbed.
But when Phillips and I stood on the shale slope, and
looked at the rugged cliffs above us, we believed, by
working our way up its snow-filled couloirs, we could
reach the peak quicker than by going around to the
south according to the first plan.

This west side of the mountain we found free of
snow to about the eleven thousand foot line; but the
cliffs above the shale slope were more difficult than we
imagined, and it was slow work. The snow in the
couloirs, that we had thought would offer good climbing,
was so steep and hard that it could only be climbed by
means of laborious step cutting. From early morning,
till three o'clock in the afternoon, we struggled up the
wall of rock and ice, and in all that time we succeeded

32 Canadian Alpine Journal.

in reaching an altitude of only a little over eleven ihou-
sand feet. The weather was glorious, and the scenery
of this show spot of the alpine world beggars description.
The warm sun kept the avalanches busy all about us,
and loose rocks would frequently whistle past. Some-
times these came from cliffs so high above that, without
any warning and coming seemingly right out of the sky,
they would scream past in awful flight to be engulfed in
the silence below. We could hear them strike nothing,
either coming or going.

In coming down that afternoon we discovered a far
easier way up than the one we had tried, so we made up
our minds that we would give it a try next time. Return-
ing to our "High Up" camp, we cached blankets and in-
struments, and then hastened to our permanent camp
at the base of Mt. Robson, for more provisions. Wed-
nesday, July 28th, we again climbed the cliffs of the north
shoulder, and made our "Higher Up" camp that night,
in the cliffs above the shale slope, at ten thousand feet
altitude. Here we slept on a little ledge so narrow that
there was but room for the two of us to lie close
together, and we had to build a little wall of stone, to
keep from rolling off the mountain-side. Though the
weather was fine, we were very cold, and the wind at
that altitude was terrific. All the peaks for hundreds
of miles were below our level, excepting Mt. Turner to
the north, a line twelve thousand foot peak on the other
side of "The Valley of a Thousand Falls." The grind-
ing avalanches and the distant roar of countless water-
falls, sang our lullaby. We had carried some dry wood
with us and were able to warm over a stew of wild meat
for breakfast; then, in the crisp early morning, July
29th, we tried for a second time the rugged walls of the
northern face of Mt. Robson.

So successful were we, that by half past nine we
had reached an altitude of eleven thousand feet. Here

Rf:r. Gty). B. Klnmii, PKuto

MT. ROBSON FROM RORSON PASS

Rec. (J. B. Kinney, I'lioto

MT. TURNER FROM 12,000 FT. ON MT. ROBSON
Looking Across the Valley of a Thousand Falls

To the Top of Mount Rob son. 33

we came to an unscalable wall of rock. Our only pos-
sible way by it was up a sixty or seventy degree slope of
ice, which terminated in a jagged crack in the wall, where
we had to climb some twenty-five feet straight up in the
air. It took us so long to cut steps up that great slope
of ice, and the ravine was so difficult that it was noon
before we conquered them. From then on we found
every possible lodging place loaded with snow, making
our climb not only more difficult but adding danger as
well. The sun swinging round to the west brought a
new enemy. The snow on the sheltered cliffs began to
melt making our footing on them exceedingly treacher-
ous: And not only were little streams forming in every
draw and couloir, but loosened masses of rock and ice
began falling on every hand. We reached an altitude of
over twelve thousand feet, and our worst difficulties
seemed nearly over, but the day was too far spent for us
to make the peak and ever get back to safety, so reluct-
antly we turned back.

For more than a thousand feet down those upper
cliffs of rock our every step was fraught with fearful
danger. Not only did we have to get down gullies drip-
ping and streaming with water, where falling rocks and
avalanches were a constant menace, but the now melt-
ing masses, that covered every ledge, threatened to
slide from under our weight and drag us over the cliffs.
We found the steps we had cut in the ice slope of the
couloir below had nearly melted away, and that the
whole mass looked as if would slip down over the cliff if
we so much as touched it. But it was our only
possible way down, and we had to hurry, for each mo-
ment but added to our dangers. We made a cairn at
eleven thousand five hundred feet altitude.

After we got below snow line, we made good time,
for Phillips was fast becoming an expert in climbing.
Reaching the level of the big west shoulder, up which

34 Canadian Alpitic Journal.

I had climbed in 1908 in a blizzard, I left Phillips in
charge of my camera, and for half a mile followed the
narrow ledges, till I stood on the summit of that noble
view point. The sun was just setting, Phillips was a
mere dot on a cliflf to the north, the lake that Dr. Cole-
man named after me, and the "Valley of a Thousand
Falls" lay eight thousand feet directly below. These
and the valley of the Fraser, with its little thread of
silver, were being engulfed with darkening blues and
indigos as twilight flooded the innumerable peaks and
glaciers on every hand. Above me swept a long slope
of snow clear to Mt. Robson's highest pinnacle. Though
tipped at a fearfully steep angle and bands of black
across its white spoke of cliffs to climb, the contrast it
presented to the almost perpendicular clifTs we had been
climbing during the past four days, filled me for the first
time with joy and confidence of ultimate success. I
hurried back to Phillips and told him the good news,
and we determined to make the top of that west shoulder
our "Highest Up" camp the next day.

This little side trip of mine had delayed us consid-
erably. We had planned to enjoy a real supper and to
sleep comfortably that night in Camp Robson at the foot
of the mountain. In fact we had to cut steps in the ice
of the steep couloirs and get down the last five hundred
feet of cliffs in the dark of night, before we reached our
"Higher Up" camp in the cliffs. There was nothing left
for us to do but camp there again, at ten thousand feet
altitude, in the wind and cold on that little ledge. I
started a little fire and warmed up our stock of stew,
while Phillips made our bed. There, partly covered
under our blankets, we ate our supper in the dark and
watched the gathering storm-clouds blot out the white-
capped peaks at our feet. The storm soon swooped
down upon us burying our little world in white, while
the tempest of wind threatened to tear the very cliffs to

To the Top of Mount Rob son. 35

pieces. I do not suppose there is any place where the
wind blows so hard as on an exposed mountain top.
Phillips and I curled up so closely together that we
managed to keep from freezing, but it was a most un-
comfortable night.

By daylight it was storming as hard as ever. The
rocks that had been warm in the sun of the day before
still retained enough heat to melt some of the snow that
fell, so by morning the drip from the cliffs had wet our
blankets through, and we were driven to seek Camp
Robson, at the foot of the mountain, several thousand
feet below. Packing up our wet blankets and without
any breakfast, for we could not start a fire and we were
too cold to eat, we plunged through the storm and
glissaded down a long slide of snow. A thousand feet
lower we were below the storm, and in a couple of hours
had got down the cliffs of the north shoulder, and were
once more comfortably feeding at our camp fire at the
base of the mountain.

Narrative by Donald Phillips.

If I remember correctly, we slept part of that day
as we were a little behind on sleep. The weather con-
tinuing bad, we spent the next four days down stream
around Lake Kinney exploring and fishing, but the fish
were a minus quantity and, as we only got one young
grouse, we were soon on half rations. We found three
different places to get up the long line of cliffs that ex-
tend west from the base of Mt. Robson across the valley
of the Grand Forks, up which Dr. Coleman's party could
not find a way three years ago. One of these with very
little work could be made passable for a pack train, for
the deer, bear and goat use it now.

Our grub getting pretty scarce I decided to take
the damaged rifle and go back to the Smoky River and

36 Canadian Alpine Journal.

see if I could get a caribou. I straightened the rifle the
best I could, and taking a little grub and one horse
started out. I returned three days later with two fool
hens that I had shot with my Colts 32 revolver. Our
trusty rifle had failed at every shot to hit an old billy
goat, although I had shot away all but five of our supply
of cartridges. So now things did look blue indeed. We
would have to go on slim rations if we hoped to hold
out much longer, for our flour was down too near the
bottom of the sack to look good; in fact only enough
remained for another pan of biscuits and everything
else was about as scarce. If I remember correctly, it
was about the second day after I got back from the hunt
that we tried our third attempt to scale Mt. Robson, but
fate was against us again. We had only got up to about
10,000 feet when it started to snow. A few hundred feet
higher up we had to abondon the attempt, for the snow
was already four inches deep and snow slides came tear-
ing past us every minute or so. Mr. Kinney lost his
cap in one of them. Luckily for him, on the way up, he
had found his hat which had blown over a ledge the

first time that we had climbed.

We cached our packs of grub and bedding and

firewood in a little cave, and hiked for main camp where

we arrived after dark, soaked to the skin and all our dry

clothes cached up on the mountain.

For a few days it rained and snowed more or less
every day, and between showers we made trips after
game with our pocket guns and lived almost entirely on
"Mulligans" made of blue grouse and whistlers. One
afternoon when the clouds lifted a little I went after
goats across the river from camp and shot away the re-
mainder of our rifle cartridges. After the last cartridge
was gone a big old billy walked up to within twenty
feet of me.

To the Top of Mount Rob son. 37

Narrative by Rev. G. Kinney.

At last the weather began to clear up, and Monday,
August 9th, we again climbed the rugged north shoulder.
Crossing the difficult shale slope, we passed the camp
spots of our former trips, and with our heavy fifty-pound
packs, struggled up those fearful cliiTs till we reached an
altitude of nearly ten thousand five hundred feet. We
would soon have reached the top of the west shoulder,
when the storm caught us. For a couple of hours we
had watched the storm-clouds gather, then gradually
obliterate the peaks; yet we pushed on, hoping they were
only squally. We were climbing in a narrow couloir
when it began to snow. We did not mind it at first but
in a few minutes it had snowed three inches, and slides
began to come down. Realizing at once our danger,
we hastily cached our packs under a sheltering rock and
hurried down the cliffs. But we had a bad half-hour be-
fore we got out of danger and glissaded the draw down
the long shale slope. We got to Camp Robson at the
foot of the mountain in a discouraged frame of mind,
for we were hundreds of miles from civilization, with
scarcely any provisions and the mountain was still un-
sealed.

For three days it stormed, and we lived on birds
and marmot (a kind of mountain ground-hog). Then
Thursday, August 12th, dawned fine and clear. As we
had lots of time to make our "Highest Up" Camp that
day, we spent most of the morning repairing our boots
and clothes and making ready for our final climb. After
an early dinner we climbed the several thousand feet of
cliif to where we had cached our packs the Monday the
storm caught us. Shouldering the packs, we climbed
more cliffs, and finally worked our way to the top of the
west shoulder, 10,500 feet above the sea. Here, at an
altitude equal to that of Mt. Stephen, we chopped away

38 Canadian Alpine Journal.

a couple of feet of snow and ice, and feathered our bed
with dry slate stones. We shivered over the little tire
that warmed our stew and then, amid earth's grandest
scenes, we went to bed with the sun and shivered through
a wretched night.

Friday, August 13th, dawned cold and clear, but with
the clouds gathering in the south. Using our blankets
for a wind-brake we made a fire with a handful of sticks,
and nearly froze as we ate out of the pot of boiling stew
on the little fire. Then we laid rocks on our blankets
so they would not blow away, and facing the icy wind
from the south, started up the west side of the upper
part of the peak. The snow was in the finest climbing
condition, and the rock-work though steep ofifered good
going. Rapidly working our way to the south, and
crossing several ridges, we had reached, in an hour, the
first of two long cliffs that formed horizontal ramparts
all around the peak. We lost half an hour getting up
this cliff, but finally found an easy way up it.

The clouds that came up with a strong south wind,
had gradually obscured the peak, till by the time we
reached the cliff, they were swirling by us on our level,
and at the top of the cliff it began to snow. For a mo-
ment I stood silent, and then turning to my companion
said: "Curlie! my heart is broken." For a storm on the
peak meant avalanches on that fearful slope, and there
would be no escaping them, so I thought that we would
have to turn back, and our provisions were now so low
that we would not have enough to make another two-
day trip up the mountain. It meant that this was our
last chance; but, to my surprise, it did not snow much,
the clouds being mostly a dense mist. In a few minutes
I said, "Let us make a rush for the little peak," meaning
the north edge of the peak which was directly above us.
"All right," says Curlie, from whom I never heard a word
of discouragement, and away we started, keeping to the

To the Top of Mount Robson. 39

hard snow slopes. Though these were extremely steep,
the snow was in such splendid condition that we could
just stick our toes in and climb right up hand over hand.
By the time we had conquered the second of the
long ramparts of cliffs, that form black threads across
the white of the peak, we concluded that it was not go-
ing to snow very hard, as the clouds were mostly mist
and sleet. Swinging again toward the south, we headed
directly for the highest point of the mountain, which we
could see now and then through the clouds. Small
transverse cliffs of rock were constantly encountered, but
they were so broken that we could easily get up them,
by keeping to the snow of the little draws. For hours
we> steadily climbed those dreadful slopes. So fearfully
steep were they that we climbed for hundreds of feet,
where standing erect in our foot-holds, the surface of the
slopes were not more than a foot and a half from our
faces; while the average angle must have been over
sixty degrees. There were no places where we could
rest. Every few minutes we would make foot-holds in
the snow large enough to enable ut to stand on our heels
as well as our toes, or we would distribute our weight
on toe and hand-holds and rest by lying up against the
wall of snow. On all that upper climb we did nearly the
whole work on our toes and hands only. The clouds
were a blessing in a way, for they shut out the view of the
fearful depths below. A single slip any time during that
day meant a slide to death. At times the storm was so
thick that we could see but a few yards, and the sleet
would cut our faces and nearly blind us. Our clothes and
hair were one frozen mass of snow and ice.

When within five hundred feet of the top, we en-
countered a number of cliffs, covered with overhanging
masses of snow, that were almost impossible to negotiate,
and the snow at that altitude was so dry that it would
crumble to powder and offer poor footing. We got in

40 Canadian Alpine Journal.

several difficult places that were hard to overcome, and
we fought our way up the last cliffs, only to find an al-
most insurmountable difficulty. The prevailing winds
being from the west and south, the snow, driven by the
fierce gales had built out against the wind in fantastic
masses of crystal, forming huge cornices all along the
crest of the peak that can easily be distinguished from
the mouth of the Grand Forks, some ten miles away.
We finally floundered through these treacherous masses
and stood, at last, on the very summit of Mt. Robson.

I was astonished to find myself looking into a gulf
right before me. Telling Phillips to anchor himself well,
for he was still below me, I struck the edge of the snow
with the staff of my ice axe and it cut in to my very feet,
and through that little gap, that I had made in the
cornice, I was looking down a sheer wall of precipice that
reached to the glacier at the foot of Berg Lake, thou-
sands of feet below. I was on a needle peak that rose
so abruptly that even cornices cannot build out very far
on it. Bearing my head I said, "In the name of Almighty
God, by whose strength I have climbed here, I capture
this peak, Mt. Robson, for my own country, and for the
Alpine Club of Canada." Then, just as Phillips and I
congratulated each other, the sun came out for a minute
or two, and through the rifts in the clouds, the valleys
about us showed their fearful depths. The Fraser lay a
thread of silver, over eleven thousand feet below. Be-
fore I could take any photos the clouds shut in again
thicker than ever. We were nearly frozen, so could not
remain at th^ top till the clouds should break. We
could not build a cairn there, in which to cache the
Canadian flag, that Mrs. Dr. Geo. Anderson, of Calgary,
had donated, and our records ; for if we left them in the
snow they would have been lost, so we cached them on
our return, in a splendid natural cairn, a few hundred
feet below the peak.

Ho'

Ret. O. li. Kinnty, Phuto

DONALD PHILLIPS ON MT. ROBSON
At Altitude, 12,000 ft.

A. L. Mumm, Photo

TUMBLING GLACIER AND BERG LAKE
N. W. Face of Mt. Robson

To the Top of Mount Rob son. 41

On three different little cliffs near the summit, we
met with great difficulty in descending, but we finally
managed. After caching our records and getting down
near the twelve thousand foot level, we found a new
danger that nearly finished us. The storm had increas-
ed, but the temperature had risen. In fact a chinook
was melting the lower snows. We found our trail
nearly melted away. To make the matter worse, the
slopes were so steep that the snow never could lie very
deep, even in the couloirs ; and we frequently had to make
detours around places where the ice or rock beneath
the thin snow would allow of no footholds whatever.

It was so cold and stormy at the summit, we did not
get anything out of our packs to eat. While I fixed the
eairn Phillips ate some Peter's chocolate, and later on
I snatched a moment to eat some, paper and all. But
during the twelve hours climbing and returning on that
slope, there was no time to do anything but get to the
summit and then to safety. So very dangerous did the
snow get, that our return trip cost us seven hours of
distressing work, while the climb to the summit was
made from our "Highest Up" Camp, at 10,500 feet, in
five hours. We had to use the rope all the way down,
and only one of us could move at a time, while the other
got as good an anchorage as possible. But finally we
reached the lower of the two bands of cliffs where we un-
roped, and then rapidly got down to camp "Higher Up,"
where we soon devoured everything edible in sight. The
storm was raging fiercely above us, night was gathering,
and we had thousands of feet of cliff still to descend be-
fore reaching Camp Robson that night, yet we lingered
on the west shoulder, eating and resting, and oh, so
glad that the peak had, at last, really been won.

It was a long three-hour struggle with our packs
down those cliffs. We had half a mile or more of
ledges to follow to the north there were several deep

42 Canadian Alpine Journal.

gorges with ice steps to cross, then a long glissade and
more cliffs. So it was long after dark before we reached
Camp Robson and finished the big return trip from base
to summit in twenty hours. We were so tired we could
hardly eat or rest and our feet were very sore from mak-
ing toe-holds in the hard snow. But we had stood on the
crown of Mt. Robson, and the struggle had been a desper-
ate one. Three times we had made two-day climbs,
spending ninety-six hours in all above ten thousand
feet altitude, so far north. During the twenty days we
were at Camp Robson we captured five virgin peaks,
including Mt. Robson, and made twenty-three big climbs.

Others will doubtless some day stand on Mt. Rob-
son's lonely peak, but they who conquer its rugged crags
will ever after cherish in their hearts a due respect and
veneration for its mighty solitudes.

Narrative by Donald Phillips.

The following morning my feet were so bruised and
sore that I could scarcely stand, but we determined to
break camp and make a start on the return trip. We
only had food enough for about four days short rations
and it would be at least six or seven before we would
arrive at Swift's where we could get more. When we
got our duffle all packed ready to load up I went out
to shoot Billy, Mr. Kinney's pack horse, as he had been
sick with the fever all the time we had been at Mt. Rob-
son. But I was spared an unpleasant task, as I found
the poor fellow dead. We then waded across the river
and brought in the rest of the horses, packed our out-
fit on my two pack horses, and, leading our saddle
horses, we started on our return trip. At the foot of
Lake Adolphus we camped that night and remained
there over the following day, it being Sunday, and Mr.
Kinney objected to travelling on Sunday. Considering

To the Top of Mount Rohson. 43

the state of our food supply, I thought this rather an
extreme course of action, but Mr. Kinney claimed to be
confident that we would be provided for. And as it
turned out I was about as well satisfied for it snowed
nearly all day.

Monday morning we got some "fool hens" between
the branches of the Smoky River and, after dinner, at the
summit of Moose Pass, we shot five rock-slide gophers,
as Mr. Kinney called them, and five ptarmigan, so that
we had a big old "Mulligan" for supper that night.
But the birds with two exceptions were young ones
about the size of robins. The next day was a very
exasperating one, for Mr, Kinney, in trying to dodge
the bad places we had struck coming up that part of the
river, only got mixed up worse than before. In one place,
trying to find a trail to higher ground from the river
bottom, we got into such a fix that it took us an hour to
cut our way back to the river. And, when the trail
did go up, Mr. Kinney turned back to the river bottom
after going half a mile up the mountain side, and we
floundered there in muskeg and water for an hour or two
before we struck the trail where it again came down to
the river flat. Again, between the forks of the Moose,
in the heavy timber, he wanted to travel west although
we could see the valley of the west branch to the south.
I suggested that we strike for it. We were both pretty
cranky about that time and, when I said the way he came
in was round about and crooked, he said that I had better
go ahead and see what I could do. As much by good
luck as anything I emerged from the timber scarcely a
hundred yards from the camping ground. I was on the
lead in the future.

The next day we made the Grant Creek on the
Fraser after an all day drive. We had got a few more
fool hens during the last two days, but "Mulligan"
straight three times a day was getting tiresome and we

44 Canadian Alpine Journal.

were ravenously hungry all the time. From Grant Creek
we decided to make Swift's in two day^ but the next
day we overtook Mr. A. Trelle and his son Herman at
Poplar Creek and they gladly shared their grub with us.
And never before did "bannock," bacon and colTee taste
so good. They insisted that we should travel with them
for a few days as they were not going to make any stops
until they reached Jasper Lake. We camped over Sun-
day at Caledonia Creek and, Saturday evening, Mr.
Kinney, Herman and I caught fifty-two rainbow trout.
A party of Indians camped beside us Saturday night
and told us that Swift had told them that he thought
we must have had a mishap up at Mt. Robson and that
they had better have a look for us as they had to pass
Mt. Robson on their way to Tete Jaune Cache.

At John Moberly's we met part of the English
Alpine party on their way to Mt. Robson. They seemed
quite confident of being able to reach the summit of the
peak and said that they had records of 20,000 feet. But
there are mountains and mountains, and Mt. Robson is
about as nearly impossible as they make them. The rest
of the English party we met three days later at Cache
Boyett Flats. On the first day of September I bid Mr.
Kinney good-bye at Medicine Lodge on the McLeod
River. He had sold me the remainder of his outfit and
was going to walk back to Entwistle at the Pembina and
take the train from there to Edmonton and civilization.

The Ascent of Pinnacle Mountain. 45

THE ASCENT OF PINNACLE MOUNTAIN

AND

SECOND ASCENT OF MOUNT DELTAFORM.

By J. W. A. HicKsoN.

Pinnacle Mountain (10,062 ft. above sea-level) is
so well known to all readers of this Journal through the
excellent illustrated article by Mr. P. D. McTavish in
the issue of 1908, that it would be a superfluous labor to
attempt any re-description either of its appearance or
situation. It will suffice to recall the fact that it forms
part of the range of peaks on the eastern side of Paradise
Valley, that it adjoins Eiflfel Peak, and is separated from
Mount Temple, the "monarch of the district" by Sentinel
Pass. When the present writer returned from one of
the upper ledges in August 1907, on what was a third
unsuccessful attempt of this peak during that summer —
the first having been made by Mr. Forde, of Revelstoke,
with the Swiss guide Peter Kaufmann, the second by a
party consisting of Mr. P. D. McTavish, the Revs. J. C.
Herdman and George B. Kinney (since then the con-
queror of Mount Robson) and the Swiss guide E.
Feuz, Jr. — he felt that his chances of making the first
ascent of this tempting prize had become greatly dimin-
ished. My guide Eduard Feuz, Jr., for whom this was
the second attempt turned his back on the mountain
saying in a temporary mood of annoyance and dis-
appointment: "I won't try the wretched peak again."
But I knew well that in the case of one of his enthusiastic
and enterprising nature this attitude would not be a
lasting one. The latter part of the summer of 1907 was
most unfavorable for mountaineering in the Canadian

46 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Rockies. After the beginning of August, cold and wet
weather, attended by snowfalls at altitudes over 8,000
feet, prevailed till the first week of September. It was
a heavy fall of fresh snow which brought about our
failure on Pinnacle, for the chimney or "crack" in the
precipitous tower near the top, (so well described by Mr.
McTavish) not being practicable, the only alternative
way of ascending the last few hundred feet seemed to
consist in traversing the face of the mountain to the left.
But considering the absolute rottenness of the rock, this
was deemed too precarious a route to attempt under
the physical conditions then prevailing, which included
amongst other contrary factors a gale of wind.

As I was preparing to visit the Rockies the following
summer, a severe illness overtook me and rendered me
an invalid until late in the autumn. All expectation of
ever capturing Pinnacle Mountain was put aside; it was
even for a time doubtful whether my right arm would
ever again be fit for the strain of mountaineering. In
the meantime it seemed certain that Pinnacle would be
scaled. But nobody tried it during the season of 1908.
This appearing almost like a special dispensation of
Nature in my favor, and having determined to spend a
couple of months in the Rockies last summer, I decided
to get into condition as rapidly as possible after reach-
ing Banff, in order to make a more vigorous attack on
what was now one of the few virgin peaks in the neigh-
borhood of Lake Louise.

After some good scrambles on the mountains — in-
cluding Mount Victoria — surounding this ever enchant-
ing lake, I started from the "Chalet" on the afternoon
of July 28th for Paradise Valley, with Eduard Feuz, Jr.
and Rudolf Aemmer (a new guide from Interlaken,
Switzerland), with whom I had not previously done any
climbing. He turned out to be a most capable fellow.
On the way to our camping ground, the weather, which

The Ascent of Pinnacle Mountain. 47

had previously looked uncertain, assumed a more glow-
ering aspect, threatening rain every moment, but none
fell until after we had gone to bed. We were astir early
but the rain continued till 5 a.m., before which hour we
had hoped to have started on our climb. At this time
the weather looked so unpropitious that I had, with
gloomy resignation, practically given up the idea of
attempting an ascent. But half an hour later there were
signs of an improvement; so having taken breakfast we
prepared to set out, and eventually left our camp — on
the site of the A.C.C. Camp of 1907— by 6.30 o'clock, two
hours later than we had originally planned. Shortly
after we were on the way, a light drizzle began and con-
tinued with more or less persistency for the next two
hours. So unsettled indeed, did the weather appear that
it was not until we had ascended a respectable distance
that we were certain of going on.

At first the route lies alongside the stream which
issues from Horseshoe Glacier, and then to the left over
a grassy slope adorned with brilliant flowers to an ascent
over huge boulders and scree. After a slope of fairly
soft snow is passed, one reaches a steeper slope on which
we roped. The ascent of this was easy enough, and we
proceeded rapidly until the steep couloir was reached,
that had been climbed on an earlier occasion, and which
was now in a more difficult and dangerous con-
dition than it was two years before. It was, as
Messrs. Forde and McTavish found it, filled with
ice, thinly covered with hard snow, and necessitated
the vigorous use of our axes for step-cutting.
Loose rocks insecurely held by snow and ice rendered
the greatest care desirable, lest some of the debris should
be precipitated on the head of the last man on the rope.
On reaching the top of the couloir we found ourselves
on a narrow ridge which conects a gendarme to the main
body of the mountain. From here onwards the hand-

48 Canadian Alpittc Journal.

holds were mostly unreliable on the friable rock. After
some delicate rock-climbing which demanded caution
rather than the exercise of gymnastic attainments, and
after "negotiating" a somewhat awkward corner, we
reached a perpendicular wall a couple of hundred feet
in height. Following our previous route we now made
a sharp descent into a kind of amphitheatre with a
narrow ledge running under the wall and having a pre-
cipitous drop on the other side of about 500 feet. Cross-
ing this ledge, we came out on the col which joins Eiffel
Peak and Pinnacle Mountain. From here until within
about 300 feet of the top the climb consisted in scaling
a succession of more or less perpendicular faces, of no
particular difficulty, but demanding constant attention
and care owing to the rotten character of the rock. A
photograph appended is typical of its state of disintegra-
tion.

At 11.20 o'clock we reached the ledge under the
precipitous black tower, which had been the halting
place of our previous attempt. Vertical rock faces stood
in the way of our further advance. Thus far our route
had been the same as in 1907; but we had determined
that from this point it should be varied. Resting for
over half an hour we fortified ourselves with sundry re-
freshments, and discussed the modus operandi of attack.

The weather had by this time cleared ; and, although
there were occasional masses of clouds flitting about,
there was, fortunately for us, almost no wind. Leaving
to the right the "crack" which pierces the tower for a
hundred feet, and through which the three previous
parties had successfully attempted to ascend, we skirted
the precipitous wall, and proceeding towards the left,
tried as we had wished to do two years before, the face
of the mountain towards Paradise Valley.

It was immediately realized that only very slow
progress could be made in this direction, for the disinteg-

Hl^^

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The Ascent of Pinnacle Mountain. 49

rated tawny-colored limestone rock was of a most treach-
erous character. It was covered for the most part with
a glaze of ice, which when disturbed had a tendency
to bring the eroded limestone away with it. It was hard
to say whether the rock sustained the ice or vice versa ;
perhaps the support, such as it was, was mutual. In our
attempt to turn a sharp angle I found myself sitting for
about ten minutes — but for what seemed more like half
an hour — astride a rocky protuberance, which appeared
likely to give way at any moment, while Feuz was en-
deavoring to find a good footing on the other side. For
a few minutes I almost regretted that I had come ; for
there was a sheer drop on either side of probably 2,000
feet. At many places there were no handholds ; and we
dared not touch the rocks with our ice axes lest we
should precipitate downwards the insecure supports w^e
were standing on. We were very much in the position
of flies on a nearly vertical wall covered with sand which
from time to time was crumbling off. There was no de-
fined ledge to follow. Advancing gingerly with cat-like
tread, and avoiding any spring or jerk which might de^
tach the insecure footholds and leave us hanging
precariously, Feuz picked out places here and there
which offered the chance of a support, and we were glad
when we found a piece of rock an inch or two wide and
a few inches long on a part of which a nailed boot-edge
could obtain a transitory grip. It is remarkable how
very small a projection, if not slippery, will suffice for
a temporary hold. Fortunately, not one of the party
once slipped ; thus avoiding any test as to how far he
could have been held by the others. Luckily, also, we had
lots of rope ; so that we could allow about twenty-five
feet between each person, and this enabled us at times
to manoeuvre into better positions.

Our nerves throughout this period of two hours, dur-
ing most of which only one of us moved at a time, were

50 Canadian Alpine Journal.

at considerable tension; not a moment of slackness or
diminution of watchfulness being allowable. A keen look-
out was constantly demanded to meet an emergency
which was not at all improbable. Nothing could be taken
or was taken for granted, except that everything was un-
reliable and an accident might be expected. This is
perhaps why none occurred. As Tyndall says somewhere
in his "Glaciers of the Alps," "the thought of peril keeps
the mind awake and spurs the muscles into action ; they
move with alacrity and freedom, and the time passes
swiftly and sometimes pleasantly."

After advancing persistently and almost horizontally
along the face of the wall for two hours, we saw an un-
expected chance of reaching our goal more speedily than
we had latterly hoped. This was ofTered by a large
couloir leading to the "saddle" between the black tower
and the summit of the mountain, which is not much
higher than the top of the tower. Fairly steep and
broad, the gulch contained some ice and snow. As
we got down into it Feuz turned to me and said, "I think
we've got him," of which I was already convinced.
Crossing the couloir we rapidly ascended the rocks on the
left side and at its top, to our great surprise, landed on
a bed of shale, which by an easy slope led in a few
minutes to the summit at 2.35 p.m. The last 250 to 300
feet, vertically measured, had taken us fully two and a
half hours to scale.

It was with a feeling of great satisfaction that we
sat down and basked in the warm sunshine. The atmos-
phere was very calm; the view of the Ten Peaks with
Moraine Lake and quondam Desolation Valley, superb.
Mount Deltaform, grim and most forbidding looking, in
particular attracted our attention and suggested another
climb. Mount Fay, with its huge snow-cap and cornice,
which was frequently avalanching, Mounts Hungabee,
Ball and Assiniboine, were prominent objects in the

A. O. Wheeler, Photo

JMT. PURITY
Showing Battle Pass on Extreme Left

E. W. D. Ilolway. Photo

KILPATRICK AND WHEELER
From Summit of Mt. Purity

The Ascent of Pinnacle Mountain. 51

landscape. To the west and north the panorama is
rather Hmited by Mounts Ringrose and Victoria,
which are higher than the peak we were on. After ad-
ministering again to the corpus vile, and crowning the
vanquished peak with a stone-man, we took a few photo-
graphs, and at 3.30 o'clock commenced, rather reluctantly,
the descent.

It is well known that in the majority of cases,
descents are more trying and precarious, if not neces-
sarily more difficult than are ascents ; a statement which
though disputed by the late Leslie Stephen, seems well
founded on recognized physical principles that need not
be here explained. Hence the guides were very unwill-
ing to retrace the rather hazardous route by which we
had made the last part of the ascent; if this could pos-
sibly be avoided. It was, therefore, decided to proceed
from the "saddle" around the back of the black (and
southerly) tower, skirt it if possible, and come down
through the "crack." This would make a complete
"traverse" of the mountain, would vary the climb, and
be, as we believed, and as it turned out to be, more ex-
peditious and less risky.

We followed a narrow, but firm, ledge for about
fifteen minutes from the saddle around the southerly
tower (next Eiffel Peak). It then became necessary to
reconnoitre to see if the route proposed were further
feasible. So the second guide Aemmer, assisted by Feuz,
went ahead and soon returned to say that we could get
down by roping off. This led to one of the most in-
teresting and exciting bits of the whole climb.

At the corner or angle where the ledge we were on
terminated there was a peculiar arrangement of rock
which had resulted in the formation of a small square
hole with nothing but sky to be seen on the further side.
Under this hole there was a gap in the ledge of about
three feet, with a drop of about fifteen feet into a dark

62 Canadian Alpine Journal.

pit below. To cross the gap it was necessary to lie down
flat on the ledge on the one side with face to the rock,
stretch your feet to the rock on the other, your body thus
spanning the gap, then draw yourself through the hole
and gradually swing yourself into an upright position by
the help of the rope and the handholds in the further wall
of rock. It looked a more trying operation than it actu-
ally was because one had to turn somewhat sharply on
emerging from the hole in order to stand up on a rather
slender ledge. But there is practically no danger; when
one is firmly held on the rope by guides, whose caution
and resourcefulness, here as elsewhere, were admirable,
and have fully justified the confidence which I have al-
ways reposed in their ability.

Having, with mutual assistance, all three surmount-
ed this difficulty and having advanced a little further
down the side of the tower, we perceived a way into
the chimney already referred to, about sixty feet above
its base. Here it was obvious that the only way of
getting down was to rope off. Amongst other parapher-
nalia we had brought with us an extra short piece of rope,
which could serve as a loop. It was now slung around
a firm piece of rock, which was rendered more adaptable
to the purpose by a little hammering, while through the
loop w'as passed a second rope about 120 feet long.
This being doubled still gave us the required length.
I went down first, being held besides on another rope,
so that no serious mishap could have overtaken me. For
the first forty feet there were practically no footholds
to be found, a fact for which we were prepared ; but
fortunately the rock was good — indeed, this is the only
bit of firm rock on the mountain — and I got safely down
and out of the chimney, after swinging once or twice
like a bundle of goods, without any worse experience
than having my clothing a little torn and with the feel-
ing that there might be a permanent groove around the

■^■

H. G. Wheeler, Photo ^^^^^^^^ j^„. FROM PARADISE VALLEY

Eiffel Pk. on Right

J. W. A. Hickson, Photo

THE GUIDES ON THE SUMMIT OF PINNACLE MT.

The Ascent of Pinnacle Mountain. 53

centre of my body. Feuz descended next and took a
photo of Aemmer sitting at the top. As Aemmer was
descending he disturbed a small stone which danced
down with great force and, to Feuz's chagrin, cut off
about twenty feet from the lower end of his fine manilla
rope. We then pulled down the rope, but, of course, had
to leave behind the loop, which may be serviceable to
some later party.

It was a few minutes after 5 p.m. when we thus
regained the ledge, whence we had started five hours
earlier on our stimulating trip to the summit. After a
rest of twenty minutes we started to retrace our route
of the morning. The descent occupies almost as much
time as the ascent, owing to the character of the rock,
and the fact that after reaching the col connecting with
Eiffel Peak, one has to again ascend several hundred feet
in order to skirt the vertical wall. So it was nine o'clock
when, after a short glissade, we again reached the grassy
slope connecting with Sentinel Pass ; and it was almost
dark enough for the lantern as we got back to camp about
three quarters of an hour later.

SECOND ASCENT OF MOUNT DELTAFORM.

When we were on the ridge of Victoria towards
the end of July, Mount Deltaform, the second highest
of the Ten Peaks, had particularly attracted our notice,
and I informed Feuz, who heard the news with pleas-
ure, that I intended trying it before returning home.
It is, with Hungabee, undoubtedly one of the two most
formidable looking mountains in the neighborhood, and
had the reputation of being an exceedingly difficult
climb. What Kristian Kaufmann, one of the ablest of the
Swiss guides, who have visited the Rockies, told me about
it, combined with Professor Parker's rather terrifying

54 Canadian Alpine Journal.

account of the first ascent, contained in the Record Book
at Lake Louise Hotel, had previously aroused my curios-
ity and desire to attempt it. My resolve to do so became
quite fixed after seeing the huge, sharp triangular-shaped
peak again from the summit of Pinnacle. But it was not
until the 31st August, that simultaneously with that un-
manageable element the weather, after a week of boister-
ousness, having declared itself on our favor, I was able
to procure two guides — fortunately the same two who
had accompanied me on Pinnacle — which number was
regarded as indispensable to the success of the expedi-
tion. Except for the uppermost couloir of ice, I should
not, however, hesitate to climb it again with one guide
such as Feuz. But whether he would be willing to go
with me alone is another question.

Setting out about noon from Lake Louise with a
packer and a couple of pack horses to carry our tents
and supplies, we followed the trail around the base of
Mount Temple, and passing Moraine Lake on the left,
proceeded to the head of the Valley of the Ten Peaks
where we pitched our camp at the side of Wenkchemna
Lake, and opposite to the north-west face of Mount Del-
taform, the precipitous escarpments of which, seamed
with glaciers and snow falls, rise vertically over 4,000
feet above Wenkchemna Glacier.

It was a most charming situation among larches,
which formed a novel and agreeable feature of the land-
scape, after the usual small pines and spruces. We were
protected in all quarters from the wind. As this was
not the side however from which the mountain could
be climbed, we intended to push on from here the same
night and begin the ascent from Prospectors' Valley on
the other side of Deltaform. We were anxious not to
lose another day lest a break in the weather should
occur, which at this time of year is almost certain to be
serious in higher mountain altitudes. An additional

Second Ascent of Mount Deltaform. 55

reason for not losing any time was my desire to climb
the mountain on the sixth anniversary of its first ascent,
September 1, 1903.

By the time that we had put up our tent and had
supped in luxury, as Canadian mountaineering fare
goes, it was necessary to snatch a few hours rest and
sleep before rising again at 11.30 p.m. The successful
execution of our plans depended on the help of the
moon, which was then full, in our preliminary scramble
over Wenkchemna Pass. We were not disappointed in
our calculations. None of the party could recall more
brilliant moonlight than that of August 31st and Sep-
tember 1st, 1909. The cool night air after a very warm
day stimulated physical action, and rendered exercice
under unusual conditions both agreeable and inter-
esting.

Leaving our camp, about 7,000 feet above sea-level,
at 12.45 a.m. we ascended partly by rock and partly by
snow to the summit of Wenkchemna Pass (about 8,100
feet), which separates the shoulder of Mount Hungabee
from Neptuak, the adjoining peak to Deltaform. De-
scending sharply for fully 1,000 feet we skirted the base
of Neptuak, crossing over huge boulders and a great
deal of scree, and pushing on at an easy but steady pace,
reached the base of Deltaform about 5 o'clock. We were
now, as it seemed to us, in the centre of the mountain's
base, and opposite to a long broad snow couloir which,
starting from a moraine immediately above us, appeared
to offer a way of ascent; the first, and so far as
we could see afterwards, the only route which presented
itself. As the light was still too dim, however, to war-
rant us beginning the climb, for we could not see where
the couloir ended or led to, and as none of us had ever
previously examined the mountain from this side, we
awaited the assistance of the sun, and in the meantime
took a short nap.

56 Canadian Alpine Journal.

About 5.45 we started for the moraine at the head
of which we roped and entered the couloir, where the
hard snow with underlayers of ice involved some step-
cutting. Ascending partly by the couloir but more often
by the rocks on its sides, which operation required a
few speedy traverses in order to minimize the danger
from falling stones, we came upon some very steep
but not particularly difficult ledges. The first real dif-
ficulty was encountered after three hours of steady
climbing, and just as we were beginning to wonder
whether the character of the mountain had completely
changed in the six years, since it had been first ascended.
It consisted of a chimney about forty feet in length, with
very few good foot or hand holds, and filled, moreover,
with loose stones. The two guides were ahead and I was
last on the rope. Aemmer, who entered the chimney
first and had cleared away most of the rubbish, was well
towards its top and waiting for Feuz to follow when,
although exercising great caution, he dislodged a good-
sized stone, which, crashing down, inflicted a severe
wound on the back of Feuz's head. Fortunately I was
standing on a ledge at the side and was out of the line
of danger. Blood poured down over Feuz's face and
neck, and concluding that the climb was at an end I con-
sidered only how we could get down again ; for Aemmer
could hardly have descended the chimney without as-
sistance. But as soon as the stunning efifect of the blow
had passed over, Feuz pulled himself together with
wonderful grit and pluckily declared that the accident
would make no difference ; nor did it. We all got
through the chimney without further mishap and gaining
a ledge with a stream of trickling snow water, washed
and bandaged Feuz's wound. About 11.15 o'clock, after
surmounting some further rather steep ledges which
reduced the rate of our advance, although at many
places we were all able to move simultaneously, we

J
t

W^^Sm^i^

<'*

Second Ascent of Mount Deltaform. 57

reached a bed of shale, which we took to be the northwest
arete of Deltaform. Here we stopped half an hour for
luncheon.

The arete turned out to be the south-east one, op-
posite number Seven of the Ten Peaks. And now dis-
appeared our vision of a quick dash for the summit, as
we discovered that we were further from it than we had
estimated. Dr. Eggers relates that his party fell into
a similar error with regard to the remaining distance.

At first we were able to proceed fairly rapidly
until a regular buttress of rock obliged us to make a
long and slow traverse of its base. Altogether two
hours more of hard and persistent climbing were requir-
ed to cover the remaining distance from the arete, which
vertically measured was certainly less than 1,000 feet.
Frequently, almost vertical ledges were encountered,
formed of sharp-pointed rocks, which made the use of
gloves quite desirable. On some of these ledges streams
of water spouted down over our arms and legs from the
melting snow above. But the main difficulties consisted
in having to make a short traverse of a steep couloir of
flint-like ice to some spiky and disintegrated rocks, and
in working through a short chimney higher up, which
had an overhanging base and was devoid of footholds
at the bottom. Standing on Feuz's shoulders, Aemmer
managed to seize one or two slender handholds further
up in the chimney and draw himself into it, after which
he assisted Feuz who in turn helped me. On the way
down I found this couloir and the last mentioned
chimney the most disagreeable and trying features of
the climb. On emerging from the chimney we soon
reached the final arete which leads to the sheer pinnacle
of the summit. The latter looked almost inaccessible,
but Aemmer quickly perceived a way up, and in a few
minutes we were on the very disintegrated top, which
culminates in two pinnacles covered with smooth, white,

58. Canadian Alpine Journal.

weather-worn limestone rocks. It was now 1.40 p.m.: so
that the ascent from Prospector's Valley including- an un-
expected delay of half an hour had taken eight hours.
The view is not nearly so magnificent as from Victoria,
or even so fine, in my opinion, as from Pinnacle.

I had been eager to vary our return route by proceed-
ing along the ridge to Neptuak and thence over this
peak back to Wenkchemna Pass. This would have
made an ideal finish to an otherwise most satisfactory
climb. But a careful scrutiny of the arete showed it to be
in many places tremendously sharp and deeply serrated,
while elsewhere it presented smooth perpendicular slabs
of rock, especially between the arete and the summit of
Neptuak; all of which features would have caused us
the most strenuous exertion, and, what was more im-
portant, rendered it quite probable that if attempted we
might have to spend the night at a higher altitude than
we desired. Consequently we decided to curb our am-
bitions.

Realizing that we had no time to lose, if we wished
to get oflf the mountain before nightfall, we immediately
set about erecting a new cairn and after a brief
rest began the descent at 2.30 p.m. While proceeding
cautiously, as was necessitated by the nature of the
rocks, we also pushed on without delay, and our party,
being in good condition, was able to make fair time. On
arriving at the lower of the two more difficult chimneys,
we decided to rope ofif, and in this safer and time-saving
method were assisted by Nature, which had made
provision for the purpose in the shape of a large and
secure rock, right at the top of the chimney, around
which a loop can be easily and securely fastened. Both
this chimney and the upper one are undoubtedly easier
to descend than the one described on Pinnacle. Having
all got down quite comfortably by the assistance of the
rope, I suggested to the guides that we should not

Second Ascent of Mount Delta-form. 59

stop for refreshment until we had passed the
moraine and reached the tree-line. To this
proposal they cheerfully consented. After more than
another hour of steady descent we came to the long
couloir of snow by which we had commenced the ascent.
It was now in fairly good condition, the snow having
been softened by the sun ; so that we could leave the
rocks and descend much more rapidly by it. Shortly
after 8 o'clock we left the snow and could dispense with
the rope, which had bound us together during more than
thirteen hours of adventurous companionship. Speedily
descending the moraine and hurrying down some rough
grassy slopes, we found ourselves, half an hour later
near the stream in Prospector's Valley where, after
lighting a fire and finishing the remainder of our pro-
visions, we awaited the moon. The complete descent
had occupied about six and a quarter hours. About 11
p.m. we commenced the return trip around the base of
Neptuak and across Wenkchemna Pass. We reached
our camp again, all extremely sleepy, shortly after 3 a.m.,
after an absence of over twenty-six hours. We had
been favored by fine weather conditions throughout.

Without having ever reconnoitered or having even
been in Prospector's Valley previously, from which the
only approachable side of Deltaform can be thoroughly
examined, the guides showed practically unerring judg-
ment in choosing the route of ascent which, as far as the
south east arete, is, doubtless, that followed by Professor
Parker and Dr. Eggers. From here it is possible that
our route diverged slightly from their's, although after
reading Professor Parker's account in "Appalachia," on
my return home, I am not wholly convinced that it did.
Either this, however, or the condition in which they
found the mountain was not so favorable as on the oc-
casion of our ascent. The latter supposition appears
from Professor Parker's account the more probable. And

60 Canadian Alpine Journal.

it is further supported by the fact that his party, who
were all splendid rock climbers, took over six hours
longer than we did for the complete ascent and descent,
although they set out from a camp in Prospector's Valley
about 4,000 feet below the summit.* Starting at 6 a.m.
they did not reach the summit till 4 p.m. and coming
down in the dark were overtaken by bad weather, so that
the descent required nearly eleven hours. Of course, it
is to be remembered that their party consisted of four
persons, whereas we had only three, an ideal number on
such a climb as Deltaform, which under any conditions
will always remain a first class test of alpine work.
While a more strenuous climb than Pinnacle, because
of its greater height, and relatively greater inaccessibil-
ity, it is neither more difficult nor more dangerous. In-
deed, I felt our position to be more precarious on the
upper faces of Pinnacle than anywhere on Deltaform;
and this, I believe, was also the feeling of the guides.

* Additional confirmation of this conjecture is contained in the
independent description of the climb byDr. Eggers, in Mr. W. D. Wil-
cox's "The Rockies of Canada," 3rd ed., 1909. pp. 251-257, which I
only recently read. The "Solemn and. unenthusiastic party" that
reached the summit evidently encountered more ice work than we
did. This may be partly accounted for by supposing that they pro-
ceeded up the higher couloir of ice, the crossing of which we found a
trying bit of work.

First Ascent North Tozvcr of Mount Goodsir. 61

FIRST ASCENT OF THE NORTH TOWER OF
MOUNT GOODSIR.

By J. P. FoRDE.

The two main towers of Mt. Goodsir had long been
gazed at with envious eyes by the few real mountain-
eers who had visited the Canadian Rockies in the early
days of climbing in these mountains, but, so far as is
known, no attempt to ascend either of them had ever
been made before 1901, when Fay, Outram and Scatter-
good, with Guide Christian Hasler, made an attempt to
climb the South Tower. Owing to the very unfavorable
conditions which existed on the mountain at the time
this attempt was unsuccessful. In 1903 Fay and Parker,
with Guides Christian and Hans Kaufmann, were suc-
cessful in reaching the summit, and those who have
not already done so are advised to read Fay's very in-
teresting account of these climbs, published in the 1907
volume of the Canadian Alpine Journal.

In 1903 the ascent of the North Tower was attempt-
ed by Dr. August Eggers, of Grand Forks, N.D., accom-
panied by the same guides, but a severe snowstorm
stopped their progress when they had reached a point
estimated to have been within 1,000 or 1,200 feet of the
summit. This party had considerable difficulty in re-
gaining their camp that night, but finally succeeded in
doing so long after darkness had fallen.

The North Tower remained a virgin peak until the
summer of 1909, although a number of climbers have
had designs upon it. Why it should have been neglect-
ed for so long is a mystery. It is a peak to tempt the
most ambitious climber, and its altitude, 11,555 feet,

62 Canadian Alpine Journal.

places it among the highest of the peaks south of the
railway line. As seen from the railway looking up Otter-
tail Creek, it is most forbidding looking, with its bare,
precipitous side actually overhanging Goodsir Creek
Valley, but this would prove an attraction, rather than
a deterrant, to the class of Alpinists who climb in these
mountains now, and besides, all mountaineers know
that if a mountain cannot be climbed from the known
side it is always possible to make the ascent from some
other (unseen and unknown) side, so that the uninvit-
ing easterly face certainly cannot have been the reason
for the peak having remained unsealed for so long.
Whatever the reason was, however, the fact remains, as
mentioned above, that until August, 1909, no ascent had
been made.

After the 1909 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada
had broken up, much to the regret of all who were so
lucky as to have been present at it, and the Club's Eng-
lish visitors had been well started on their trip through
the Yoho valley region, P. D. McTavish and myself were
fortunate enough to receive an invitation to join a party
which was about to make a trip into the Ice River Val-
ley, an unknown country to us, and one which we had
been anxious to visit for years. Most of the members
of this party were going into the valley on a pleasure
trip, pure and simple, but Dr. Eggers, who, as already
mentioned, had made an attempt on the North Tower
in 1903, and who had made a number of other big climbs
in the region, notably the first ascents of Mts. Deltaform
and Biddle, intended again trying the peak, and for this
reason was taking Guide Ed. Feuz, Sr., with him. He
was so kind as to invite McTavish and myself to join
him on the climb, an invitation we were slow to accept,
as we considered that the first climb should belong sole-
ly to the gentleman who had already tried it and who had
only failed on account of the opposition of the elements.

First Ascent North Tozver of Mount Goodsir. 63

In addition to this I had another and private reason
which I would not have cared to admit at the time, but
which was that I had already spent the two previous
weeks in a decidedly strenuous manner and the thought
of a week to be spent in pure idling was most attractive
to me. We, therefore, did not make any decision at the
time, nor until we had reached our main camping ground
at the foot of the mountain. As Dr. Eggers was good
enough to renew his invitation then we gladly accepted,
and it was arranged to make the attempt on the follow-
ing day. The same afternoon Dr. Eggers and Feuz did
some reconnoitering with a view to choosing the route
for the clim.b, whilst I recuperated by wading through
muskegs and fording streams in a vain attempt to get
some trout for the evening meal.

The following morning, August 16th, was fine, with
cloudy skies, a condition which lasted all day, and the
weather generally was all that we could desire, as the
clouds promised a cool day for climbing, and the slight
mists on the summit would, we promised ourselves, clear
away before our arrival. We were camped on the Ice
River, immediately at the base of the mountain, at an
elevation of about 5,100 feet, according to Wheeler's map
of the valley, and had, therefore, a very short walk before
beginning the ascent. We left camp at 5.08 a.m., crossed
the meadow on which our camp lay, and took our way
up the bed of the stream coming down from the north-
west face of the peak. A tramp up the creek bed, cross-
ing and re-crossing the stream as the walking seemed
most desirable on one side or the other, brought us to
the foot of the rocks at 7 o'clock. The only incident on
the way up was a meeting with a fine, black bear, which
was coming down the stream on the lookout for an early
breakfast. Unfortunately he refused to come close
enough to allow us to get a photograph of him in the
dull light.

64 Canadian Alf'inc Journal.

As soon as we reached the rocks, at an elevation of
6.800 feet, we began a southerly traverse across the
westerly face of the peak, gradually ascending on some
of the rottenest rock I have ever been on. Whilst mak-
ing this traverse we had the pleasure of watching an
old goat and her kid keeping out of our way, and I am
much mistaken if I was the only member of the party
who felt jealous of the ease with which they did so. At
10 o'clock we had reached the long southwesterly ridge
which runs down to the Ice River and saw, to our disgust,
that we would have saved ourselves a long, arduous
climb if we had taken to this ridge as soon as possible
after leaving camp. However, we comforted ourselves
with the thought that if we failed that day we would
know better next time. During our second breakfast
which we had on reaching the ridge, our spirits were
considerably dampened by finding that Dr. Eggers was
in anything but good condition for climbing, he being
unable to eat anything and being out of condition gen-
erally. But, with the real mountaineering spirit, he
would not think of giving up, though he expressed him-
self as being very doubtful of reaching the summit, and
kept on after breakfast with the intention of succeeding
if such a thing was possible. We held to the ridge
already mentioned until forced to leave it by perpendicu-
lar bluffs, and then traversed a long rock slide on the
south side of the peak, at the top of which we reached
another ridge immediately overhanging the valley bet-
ween the North and South Towers. Whilst ascending the
slide to the ridge a large rock was started by one of the
party and slid rapidly down, passing over our rope.
Nothing was thought of this until some time afterwards,
when it was noticed that the rope had been cut, and a
close examination showed that it was hanging by one
strand only. Very fortunately, no strain had been put on
it in the meantime. The ascent of this ridge, sometimes

£o^

A. 0. Wheeler, Photo

XORTH TOWER OF GOODSIR
From Ice River Valley

-V. P. Bridgland, Photo

THE TOWERS OF GOODSIR
From Ottertail Valley

First Ascent North Toiucr of Mount Goodsir. 65

on the arete and sometimes across one or other of the
faces, brought us, at 2 p.m., to the base of the Tower, at
an elevation of about 10,300 feet. At this point. Dr.
Ees-ers, who had several times hinted that he was not
in a fit condition to continue the ascent, decided that he
M^ould not be wise in going any further. A consultation
was held, the other members of the party wishing to
postpone the ascent until such time as our companion,
who was also the leader of the expedition, would be in
proper condition to make another attempt, but he abso-
lutely refused to consider this and insisted on our pro-
ceeding with his guide and allowing him to await our
return where he then was. A eulogy of Dr. Eggers is
entirely unnecessary here, but those who read this ac-
count can form some opinion of what his disappointment
must have been under the circumstances, and will
appreciate the generosity of his action in thus handing
over to others a first ascent which would, under ordinary
circumstances, have been his alone. However he certainly
acted wisely in giving up the attempt when he did, as
some of the hardest work was still ahead of us. To
make a success of a severe climb nourishment of some
kind is very necessary, and unfortunately he was unable
to take any.

Leaving him in a good place, from which he would
be able to watch us for some time, and leaving our ruck-
sacks and all impedimenta but ice axes and spare ropes,
we left the ridge and traversed the base of the Tower
along the upper leg of the V of snow which can be so
distinctly seen from the Ice River Valley during the
summer months. This traverse was very steep sidehill
work, chiefly along narrow ledges covered with scree or
soft snow, and required very careful work. The end of
this leg brought us to the foot of a snow-filled couloir,
where we got our first water since 7 o'clock. The snow
in the couloir was very hard and an ascent of it would

66 Canadian Alpine Journal.

have necessitated the cutting of steps so, as we found
the rock on the right hand side of it to be ideal for chmb-
ing, we took our way up it. We made very good pro-
gress for about 350 feet, when it became evident that it
would be necessary to leave the good rock and cross
the couloir in order to reach the summit, as the course
we were then on would have taken us to the foot of an
inaccessible blufT. This we did with much regret, as it
was the only part of the climb where we had firm hand
or foot holds or where the climbing was comparatively
safe. After reaching the left-hand side of the couloir
on steps cut in the snow the traveling was very steep
and, as the dip of the rock was downwards at the sur-
face and the rock was very loose, the greatest care was
required. By taking a zigzag course up the slope, and
taking advantage of every possible hold, sometimes on
rock, sometimes on ledges covered with scree and often
on patches of snow-covered ice in which steps had to be
cut, we made the ascent of the last difficult piece and
arrived on a small snow-field. By a tramp of about 100
yards up this we reached the summit.

Unfortunately, forest fires had been burning for
some time, somewhat obscuring the view of the more
distant peaks and making it impossible to obtain any
photographs, but the panorma of the nearer peaks in
the main range was enough to have repaid us many times
over for our exertions.

As it was now after 4 p.m. and we had a long
descent to make to camp only enough time was spent on
the summit to build a small cairn and enjoy the view for
a few minutes, and the return was begun at 4.15 o'clock.
The upward route was followed until Dr. Eggers was
rejoined, and, while the great disappointment of our day
was that he was not with us at the summit, his great
pleasure on the climb appeared to be that he should have
been the first to have a chance to congratulate us on our

First Ascent North Tower of Mount Goodsir. 67

success. It was now 6.30 p.m., we were at an elevation
of considerably over 10,000 feet and, as darkness was
already beginning to show, no time was spent in talking,
but a start made at once for the valley. We decided to
follow the southwesterly ridge as far as possible, and
hoped to be able to reach far enough down it to get to
timber line and then take down one of the numerous
part of which we could reach camp by lantern light,
avalanche tracks into the Ice River Valley, from any
With this in view we continued the descent until
about 10 p.m., having been moving for about two hours
in almost complete darkness. Several times we had
gone over "jumping off" places on the ridge, not knowing
whether we were going down four feet or forty, but, as
we were still roped, the danger was not so great as
might be imagined. Yet, when we came to a place
where we could see no means of proceeding farther down
the ridge we decided, after trying two or three different
routes, to spend the remaining hours of darkness where
we then were. We found a small ledge under an over-
hanging rock, which served somewhat to keep the wind
off us. On this ledge, which was too small to permit
of our lying down comfortably, and on which we did
not dare to sleep, we stayed, huddled together for
warmth, until 3.30 a.m., at an elevation of about 8,500
feet. Below us, in the valley we could see the camp
fire burning, and only the risk of a nasty accident kept us
from trying to make our way to it. If we had had water
we would have been fairly comfortable, for the night
was not extremely cold, but, as we had neither fire nor
water and did not care to eat anything without a drink
of some kind to accompany it, we spent the night in
trying to find soft places in the rock and in slapping our
hands and kicking our feet together in an attempt to
keep warm. Seldom, if ever, has dawn been watched
for more closely, in the Ice River Valley, and at the first

68 Canadian Alpine Journal.

appearance of greyness in the sky we were on our way
down again. Daylight showed us that we had done well
to stay where we did, for we still had some interesting
rock work to do before reaching the valley. As soon as we
were on the move our troubles began to fade away, and
by the time water was reached and our thirst quenched
they were entirely forgotten.

After a long drink McTavish and I took a short and
steep way to camp which we reached at 6.30 a.m., after
having been over twenty-five hours on the mountain.
Our desire to reach camp was not on our own account
at all, but to relieve the anxiety of our friends, whom we
had pictured as sitting up around the fire all night, talk-
ing, with bated breath and white, drawn faces, of what
terrible sufferings we must be enduring, and our disgust
may be imagined when we found them sleeping, and to
add insult to injury, snoring most heartily. However,
they were all very glad to see us back, and to know
that another of the now very few unclimbed peaks of
note in the better known portion of the Rockies had been
struck off the list. As soon as we reached camp one
of the guides started off with horses for Dr. Eggers and
Feuz, who rode in, ready for breakfast, about 8.30 a.m.

It might not be out of place to mention here that
if we had not made the first ascent just when we did we
would not have had another chance, as Messrs. Goddard,
of Berkeley, Cal., and Richardson, of New York, both
old, experienced climbers, with Guide Rudolph Aemmer,
arrived at our camp about two hours after our return
from the climb, with the intention of climbing the peak,
and found, much to their disappointment, that through
the generosity and unselfishness of Dr. Eggers, we had
been enabled to get there before them. Mr. Goddard
and I had been together a few days previously on the
second climb of Mt. Biddle, and still later he was one
of a party I had taken up Mt. Victoria by the hitherto

First Ascent North Tower of Mount Goodsir. 69

unclimbed south route, and I, therefore, knew enough
of his ability as a mountaineer to feel sure that the only-
reason that he did not make the first ascent was because
he was a day or so late. In proof of this I may say that
his party made the second ascent of the peak two days
after we had first set foot on its summit.

The climb was not a particularly exciting one, the
long time taken to reach the summit being more on ac-
count of the extreme caution with which it was neces-
sary to move than because of any difficulties encounter-
ed. The time could be very much shortened by spend-
ing the night previous to the climb at timber line in the
valley between the two Towers, from where a climb of
five or six hours should suffice to reach the summit. The
main camp in Ice River Valley could then be reached
the same evening without difficulty. Of course this time
could only be made if the party was favored with the
same ideal conditions both as to the weather and the
state of the mountain, as we found on the day of our
climb.

70 Ca)Uhi{(Vi Alf'ini' Journal.

FURTHER BEYOND THE ASULKAN PASS.

Bv E. W. D. HoLWAY.

The three who made the journeys described in this
Journal (Vol. II, No. 1, 1909) met again at the Glacier
House in July, 1909, full of enthusiasm and ready to carry
heavy packs. As we expected to spend several weeks in
the region we thought it would save time and labor to
obtain the aid of a packer, so we wired to one that had
been well recommended and he arrived on the first train.
We showed him our pile of provisions and he selected
about ninety pounds for his load and we divided the
balance of the outfit, which on weighing we found to be
fifty pounds each. The next morning we had the packs
taken on ponies up the Asulkan Valley to the glacier,
where we got under them and began climbing the steep
moraine. Our man only went a few rods when he put
down his pack and divided it, carrying half to the summit
of the pass and then returning for the other half which he
managed to get down to our first camp across the Geikie
Glacier. He was so tired that supper did not interest
him at all and he soon sought the tent and rolled up in
his blankets. In the morning we asked him to go back
after what he had left and he promised to do so. We
then packed about all there was and took it up to the
summit of Donkin Pass. We returned at six in the
evening and found no packer in sight. Looking in the
tent we saw that his blankets were gone and knew
that he had deserted us. This left us with very little to
eat as all our flour and sugar was at the summit of the
two passes. In the morning there was nothing for us
to do but climb up to the Asulkan and bring down the

Further Beyond the Asidkan Pass. 71

forsaken load. We were not making very flattering re-
marks about the packer but upon reaching the place we
found a message scratched on a stone at which we laugh-
ed so heartily that we forgave him. It was :

"Gone back
The dim is to
Much for me."

We eventually got everything over the Donkin Pass
and down to our old camping place on the south side
of Mitre Creek opposite the falls. There is no more de-
lightful place for a camp in the mountains. A fine spring,
dry wood enough for many years and magnificent views.
The valley drops rapidly to the west and the sunsets
and cloud effects over the snow-covered peaks were
glorious. All around us were unclimbed peaks and be-
yond the Purity Range was an unknown country. All
of it was "our country," with not a tourist within miles
nor even a climber to get ahead of us. What more could
be asked? As soon as we were rested we made

The First Ascent of Mt. Kilpatrick

(10,624 FEET.)

Crossing the Bishops Range we ascended the Black
Glacier to where it comes tumbling down the side of Kil-
patrick, where we put on the rope. We selected a route
leading to the left of the rocky peak projecting through
the ice near the col. The snow was in good condi-
tion and we arrived at the bergschrund without dif-
ficulty and soon found a way over and on to the arete,
which we followed to the summit. The views of Mt.
Purity and Mt. Wheeler were particularly noteworthy.
The wind blew hard and in a temperature of 36° it was
difficult to keep warm, so we soon left our records and
returned by the same route. Our next expedition was
the climbing of Mt. Dawson from the south.

72 Canadian Alpi}ic Journal.

Mr. Dawson.

We had in climbing Mt. Sclwyn last year followed
the regular route up Dawson nearly to the summit, so we
preferred to hnd a new way. We therefore followed up
the Bishops Glacier to where a broad debris-covered
slope comes down. Upon reaching the large compara-
tively level top of this we turned to the left over steep
snow slopes and rocks to the east end of the arete, which
was then followed to the summit. Here we built a new
stone man near the old one. Returning we went down
the longest and steepest snow slopes with our faces to
the mountain, a slow but safe method. We now felt we
were ready for the finest climb of all.

First Ascent of Augustine Peak
(10,762 feet)

We went over to the Black Glacier and followed
this up, keeping to our left, until under the first ice-fall,
where we went up a steep clay bank and reached the rocks
above this fall. From here we followed along the ledges,
going up at every opportunity, mostly over rocks but
occasionally crossing some ice or snow in the gullies until
we reached the final arete at the eastern end. This we
found to be extremely narrow, dropping for a great
distance on both sides, and quite sensational in places,
great gaps occurring, down which we had to climb and
then up on the other side. In one of these we had to
leave our spare rope to get back by. Finally the last
gap was gotten over and we stood upon the summit
looking across at our last year's stone man on Cyprian
Peak and much elated at our success. First ascents are
naturally reported as difficult. We do not make this
claim, but having climbed Sir Donald, Dawson and
Tupper we do say that Augustine is the best of all. The
ascent of the rocks to the arete is interesting, and the

E. \Y. D. Holway, Fhoto

LOOKING DOWN BATTLE CREEK
From Above Our Camp

I IF. K. Butlers. Photo

FOOT OF BATTLE GLACIERS

Further Beyond the Asulkan Pass. 73

long narrow arete is far more impressive than anything
that we have seen. The summit can also be reached
by the way of the Bishops Glacier, a longer route over
steep glaciers and snow, but which will certainly be in-
teresting. We returned by the same route except that
we went on the glacier above the ice-fall.

We now began to think of the Battle Range and
returned to the Glacier House to add a few things to
our food supply. After a little rest we took up our packs
and found ourselves again in the Mitre Creek camp.
One morning we loaded up with camp outfit and six
days' provisions and left to make a new pass, which
might be called Battle Creek Pass,* at the head of the
second glacier to the east of Mt. Purity. It is the low-
est pass in the Purity Range, 8,700 feet, and as we had
previously ascertained, the only one available for taking
packs over.

Battle Creek

We crossed the Bishops Range as usual, then went
directly across the Black Glacier and up the glacier
coming down from our pass. Arriving at the col we
looked down upon a finer valley than the Yoho, a scene of
savage grandeur unequalled in all the region. No one
had ever crossed the range and we knew not what dif-
ficulties we should meet with in descending the great
ice-fall, two thousand feet high, which dropped beneath
us so rapidly that only a little of it could be seen. On
the right, beginning with Mt. Purity, great glaciers
covered the mountain sides as far as we could see; on
the left were the fine snow-clad peaks. Grand Mt. and
Sugar Loaf; below the ice-fall the Battle glaciers with

* It is suggested, as an amendment, that this pass across the
Purity Range might be named "Purity Pass," and that at the
westerly bend of Battle Creek, leading to Duncan River Valley, "Battle
Pass."— Editor.

74 Canadian Alpi}ic Journal.

a great medial moraine filled the valley, and where it
turned to the west there towered for more than 7,000
feet above the creek a splendid unnamed mountain ter-
minating in a sharp rock peak ; glaciers were every-
where and many streams tumbled and rushed down the
steep slopes.

Descending a snow slope and keeping well to the
left we reached a lateral morine and followed this to the
comparatively level glacier below the ice-fall. The
medial moraine, some distance further on, is remarkably
large, fifty feet or more high and wide and level on top.
We reached the tongue of the glacier just about dark
and were resting on the rocks when up came a yearling
silver-tip, the most beautiful bear that we had ever seen.
He stopped short, and after we had gazed at each other
a few minutes we stood up and the bear rushed down the
valley. We followed and ten minutes later, looking up
the side of the valley, a little distance above us, we saw
an enormous grizzly with a cute little cub. The "boys'^
affirmed that she was as large as a cow ! The cub was
getting lessons in snow work for the old bear jumped
up a snow bank several feet high and the little fellow
after trying in vain to follow her had to seek a lower
place. Just then the mother seemed to smell us for she
kept looking around and lifting her nose in the air. A
shout finally caused her to turn, walk towards us and
inspect us. She soon concluded that we were harmless
and went on her way, which happened to be down the
valley, in the direction that we had to go, although above
us. It was nearly dark, and we were almost starved so
we struck out at a lively gait. In fact no such pace had
ever been set by the party before. Of course the bears
had nothing to do with it ! Getting down the tongue of
the glacier was bad enough going but from there on it
was the bottom of a Selkirk Valley and only those who
have been there can appreciate that. Drewry, who was

Further Beyond the Asulkan Pass. 75

some miles below in the lower part of Battle Creek says :
"I had travelled through some rough country but that
into which we then entered exceeded anything I had
ever imagined to exist in Canada."

We keep to the left of the Creek, forcing our way
through alders and tangled jungles filled with boulders
over which we continually stumbled. It was quite dark
when we crossed a tributary stream and saw some dry
wood scattered about on the stones. It was a poor camp
but we finally cut out a place in the alders for the tent
and soon had pea soup, bacon and tea. The next morn-
ing we moved the tent to an open place on the bank of
Battle Creek, which we found to be at an elevation of
4,200 feet, 700 feet below the tongue of the glacier.
Above us to the east was a fine Matterhorn-like peak
and a glacier from Sugar Loaf Mt. The stream that
we had crossed came roaring down for hundreds of feet
from a fine hanging valley leading up to a glacier on
Grand Mt. The Sugar Loaf Glacier proved to be very
interesting. It is fed from a hanging glacier enormously
thick where it breaks through a narrow opening in the
cliffs. The neve back of it is large, so that there is re-
markable activity. During the day that we were climb-
ing near it loud reports from the cracking and the
thunder of the falling ice were almost constant.

Unfortunately there were daily storms and we
found it impossible to climb the high peaks. After
waiting several days we were obliged to leave, and as
the rain and hail continued we kept for a time under
the shelter of big stones on the glacier. This made us
late and we crossed the Bishops Range after dark in
mist and rain. It looked like home when we found the
tent at half past nine. When the weather cleared we
climbed Mt. Purity, partly by the route of the first ascent,
finding the old camp on the western slopes of the moun-
tain. We followed up the glacier to the debris-covered

76 Canadian Alpine Journal.

slopes between the two peaks, then crossed the snow to
the right until the rocky arete was reached and thence
to the summit. High clouds were in every direction,
adding greatly to the splendor of the views and to the
beauty of a line series of photographs obtained.

When we returned to the Glacier House we made
the ascent of Eagle Peak, Terminal Peak and Mt.
Tupper, the last the first ascent without guides, and Mr.
Palmer left for the East. After some days Mr. Butters
and the writer went to the coast and made the ascent
of Mt. Rainier by the usual Gibraltar route. The trip
from Paradise Valley was made in ten hours and the re-
turn in four and a half hours. We found no ice and the
climb although long was very easy. Returning to the
Glacier House we made the ascent of both peaks of
Avalanche Mt. for photographic work, and our season
was over.

Members of the Alpine Club should certainly ar-
range to see the country beyond the Asulkan, the finest
by far that the writer has found in many years of tramp-
ing in the Rockies and Selkirks. Those who have seen
the Dawson Range from the Asulkan Pass have gained
a slight idea of what there is. It is still more wonderful
beyond. The Battle Creek Valley has only been glanced
at. It is very low, our aneroids showing 3,500 feet where
the creek turns to the west and the highest peak further
down must rise directly 7,800 feet from the stream.
From a camp beyond Donkin Pass all the mountains in
the Dawson, Bishops, and Purity Ranges can be readily
reached, and they offer a greater variety of rock and
glacier work than can be found together elsewhere. It
is of course necessary to pack everything, but with a
proper outfit and preferably three in the party it is not
difficult. Glacier experience is necessary, as much of the
route is over badly crevassed ice, covered with snow
for most of the distance. It is worth doing. Try it.

Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. 77

ASCENTS IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES.

By Val. a. Fynn.

Some of the finest peaks in the Canadian Rockies
can be reached from Lake O'Hara, where the official
camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was pitched in the
summer of 1909. Lake O'Hara can be reached in about
three hours from Hector, a flag station on the C.P.R.
between Laggan and Field. An easy trail leads up the
Cataract Creek, south of Hector, to the shores of the
lake. East of this lake is a long ridge, the general direc-
tion of which is from N. to S. Its northernmost peak is
the well-known Mt. Lefroy, then follow Glacier Peak,
Ringrose, Hungabee and Peak No. 10,* after which the
ridge sinks to the Wenkchemna Pass. Lake Oeesa lies
at the very foot of Glacier Peak and can be reached
from Lake O'Hara in about one and a half hours by a
faintly marked trail. The Opabin Pass separates Hung-
abee from Mt. Biddle, which lies due west of the former.
A well marked W. arete descends from Hungabee to
the Opabin Pass and rises to the insignificant Opabin
Peak just before reaching the said pass. This pass can
be easily reached from Lake O'Hara in about two hours
by way of the harmless Opabin Glacier. Ringrose sends
out a N.W. spur culminating in Mt. Yukness which
stands between Lake O'Hara and Lake Oeesa. The
Opabin Pass leads into Prospectors' Valley, which opens
into Vermilion River, whence the Bow River Valley and
the C.P.R. are reached some six miles south of Eldon.

* The "Peak No. 10" here referred to is a shoulder>of Hungabee
(the Chieftain). It is inferred that the Chieftain would be one of
the ten. If so the tenth would be Hungabee. — Editor.

78 Canadian Alp{>w Journal.

On the East, Glacier Peak, Ringrose and Hungabee over-
look the Paradise Valley with Horseshoe Glacier at its
head. Glacier Peak is probably accessible from that
direction, but Ringrose and Hungabee look quite hope-
less from that valley. Hungabee is the most imposing
of the whole group ; it had been climbed once, previous
to this summer by Prof. H. C. Parker with the assistance
of the two Kaufmanns ; the other two were virgin peaks.
Mt. Lefroy has been often climbed but the writer knows
nothing about Peak No. 10,

Mt. Hungabee
(The Chieftain) — 11,447 feet.

The S.W. face, which overlooks Prospectors Valley
and extends south from the W. arete reaching down to
Opabin Pass, is well seen from Opabin Peak; its average
inclination is a little less than 50*'. This face is broken
throughout its width by three very steep pitches or
walls running horizontally. The first of these pitches,
at about 8,900 feet, is the highest, but also the easiest to
overcome, presenting many convenient ledges and sound
ribs. The second pitch at about 9,500 ft., is not so high,
but it is nearly vertical and even overhangs in places ;
its continuity is, however, broken by a chimney usually
filled with ice and snow. This chimney apparently affords
the only, and not altogether safe, means of progress.
The third pitch, at about 10,900 ft., is also very steep,
but presents fine and reasonably safe climbing. That
part of the S.W. face which lies between the first and
second pitches, is furrowed by five couloirs. The first
of these loses itself in the W. arete, at or near the second
pitch; the second is the widest and runs clear up to the
main or N. arete of the peak, ending near the summit on
the well marked and highest shoulder of the mountain.
This couloir breaks through the second pitch at the ice
chimney previously referred to and also cuts a broad.

M. P. Bridgland, Photo

HUNGABEE AND RINGROSE
From Schaffer

V. A. Fynn, Photo

NORTH ARETE OF HUNGABEE
From Glacier Peak

Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. 79

but obviously dangerous couloir through the third pitch.
The remaining three couloirs do not break through the
second pitch at all, but are continued above it and lose
themselves more or less quickly in the topmost part of
the face, after scarring the third pitch with correspond-
ing Mride and nearly vertical chimneys. All five couloirs
also run down through the first pitch. The W. arete
itself cannot be followed throughout and traverses in its
immediate neighborhood look very dangerous indeed,
particularly so in the lower half. This mountain, like
all the others in the district, is more dangerous than
difficult, requiring very careful selection of a route on
account of the very rotten rock.

The second ascent of Hungabee was made on
August 7, 1909, by E. O. Wheeler (A.C.C.) and the
writer by way of the S.W. face. Leaving the official
camp of the A.C.C, near Lake O'Hara, at 2.45 a.m., the
foot of the W. arete was reached by way of Opabin
Pass and Opabin Peak at 6 a.m., including 30 minutes
rest. Bearing south over easy and gradually narrowing
horizontal ledges until near the middle of the first couloir,
quick upward progress was made over steep but firm
rocks until quite easy going was reached, when the
couloir was rapidly traversed in order to reach a well
marked ledge on its southern side just above a prominent
notch in that ridge. The ridge leads directly to the foot
of the ice chimney in the second pitch (6.45 a.m.) and
can be followed closely affording fine climbing, or quick-
er progress can be made on its southern slope. North of
the ice chimney appears a safe crack, but if this is fol-
lowed it soon becomes necessary to leave it, to climb into
the ice chimney and to traverse the latter high up. The
rocks leading from the crack down into the chimney
are very difficult. The chimney was found full of ice and
required much step cutting; it was safely negotiated at
7.20 a.m. Much snow will make this chimney very easy,

80 Canadian Alf^inc Journal.

no snow will turn it into a very hard rock climb, par-
ticularly as the rocks are sure to be always glazed in
the early morning. The chimney is left as soon as a
traverse south becomes possible, for the main couloir dis-
charges all its missiles in this direction. A broad
horizontal ledge now leads round a corner into a steep but
quite easy couloir which is exposed to falling stones, but
can be negotiated in 15 minutes when the ridge on its
north side affords a safe and easy route. This ridge is
somewhat broken just above the couloir, but can be picked
up again somewhat higher and slightly to the right, and
followed to the foot of the third pitch (8 to 8.15 a.m.).
From this point, the main couloir and the gap it cuts
through the third pitch are well seen directly on the
left. In the direct line of ascent are difficult rocks, they
can be turned by traversing the forked head of the
couloir on the right (step cutting) and working up the
rocks on the far side (black rock) to an inclined scree
covered ledge some eight feet wide running along the
foot of the main wall (yellow and greenish rock) of the
third pitch. Working back, north, along the ledge, the
foot of a deeply cut couloir in the main wall of this
pitch was reached at 8.50 a.m. On the north side of the
couloir and near the centre, are two very steep chimneys
separated by very steep slabs and narrow ledges leading
to the last steep slopes of the S.W. face (black and brittle
rock) affording new holds (10.05 a.m.). In the direct line
cf ascent is seen, high up near the ridge, a crack in the
black rock. This can be reached with care over some
patches of snow and leads on to the main ridge some
thirty feet north and a few feet below the summit, which
was reached at 10.45 a.m.

The same route was taken on the return journey; the
ice chimney was reached in three hours and negotiated
in twenty-five minutes ; a regular waterfall was now
racing down the ice and some stones came down, one oi

Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. 81

them striking Wheeler's foot and knocking him out of his
steps. Opabin Pass was reached in one hour and live
minutes after forty-five minutes rest, and one and a half
hours later we were back in camp at 6.30 p.m.

A close examination of the main or N. arete showed
that the latter will afford a splendid and much safer
climb. It should be struck at its lowest point, between
Ringrose and Hungabee. This point can be reacl"ied
without serious difficulty from the foot of the Opabin
Glacier. This first part of the climb is, however, again
exposed to falling stones.

Prof. Parker climbed the mountain from a camp in
Prospectors Valley, but attacked the S.W. face near
Opabin Pass, the first part of his route probably coin-
ciding with that described above, and reached the main
ridge by way of the main couloir.

A first attempt made by E. O. Wheeler and the
writer on July 25th, 1909, was frustrated by bad weather.
On that occasion the route followed was the same, except
that the third pitch was negotiated further south — just
above the third couloir (connecting the main couloir as
number one). The main ridge was reached some sixty
feet below the summit, but this only became known to
the party on the day of the successful ascent. The
more direct route followed on the second attempt is the
better.

Ringrose

(10,741 FEET.)

On August 9th, 1909, E. F. Pilkington (A.C.C.) and
the writer made the first ascent of this peak. The S.W.
face is well seen from Opabin Glacier. The mountain
shows two summits, of which the southern one is the
higher and the broader. To the south of the higher
summit is seen a formidable looking gendarme on the
main arete which soon drops very suddenly to the lowest

82 Canadian Alpine Journal.

point of the arete between Ringrose and Ilungabee. The
S.W. face is reached by way of a broad snow covered
ledge which sweeps up from the Opabin Glacier and runs
north, rising in the direction of the col between Ringrose
and the eastern peak of Mt. Yukness. The characteristic
features of the S.W. face are a first couloir descending
ftom a point on the main ridge just south of the north
summit and a second couloir descending from a point just
north of the gendarme. These two couloirs converge on
a point at the foot of the face. A large patch of snow
covers a fairly level platform in the line of the first
couloir. A little above this and about half way up the
face is seen a horizontal but steep ledge ; it is particular-
ly well marked just under the lowest depression of the
main arete. Another such ledge appears about the
height of said lowest depression.

Leaving the camp near Lake O'Hara at 4.45 a.m.
a little lake at the foot of Opabin Glacier was reached
at 5.55. Continuing at 6.10 the foot of the S.W. face
was reached at 7.25. The face was attacked at 7.48 a.m.
at a point immediately below the highest summit. The
rocks present no difficulty and many variations are,
therefore, possible but a sharp lookout must be kept for
falling stones.

The ribs between the two couloirs mentioned above
is followed, leaving the snow patch on the left, the first
ledge being easily reached just where it crosses the
second couloir. At this point, and on the south side of the
second couloir, is seen a steep and curved gully partly
filled with snow. It runs up in the direction of the low-
est depression in the main arete then turns back in the
direction of the main summit. The rib which separates
this curved gully from the second couloir seems to de-
scend from the gendarme on the main arete. The second
couloir looks very smooth and is certainly very danger-
ous. Crossing it very rapidly the rocks on its north

Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. 83

side are reached and afford hne, safe, climbing. The
curved gully runs into a couloir filled with ice which
descends from the south side of the gendarme. Cross-
ing the curved gully at its junction with the ice couloir
the rocks on the north side of the latter are followed,
keeping high up and well out of harm's way until direct
progress in the direction of the main arete becomes im-
possible without crossing the ice couloir. At this point
an irregular vertical crack in a partly overhanging rock
wall affords a chance to reach the crest of the rib which
seems to descend from the gendarme. This is the hardest
part of the climb for the rock is quite brittle. Once
astride on the sharp rib it is seen that the second couloir
which is now immediately on the left divides a few feet
higher into two branches, the one running to the very foot
of the main peak, the other away from it. Either branch
is practicable but both are dangerous. Descending from
the rib, the near branch of the second couloir is rapidly
crossed when the main ridge can be reached by way of
the buttress between the two branches. It is not until
this buttress is reached that it becomes evident that the
gendarme has been left on the right and that it will not
stand in the way. The main arete is struck at the foot
of what appears to be a vertical wall guarding the ap-
proach to the main peak from the south. This wall is,
however, easily climbed (10.50 a.m.). Striding along the
almost level arete in the direction of the highest point
one is suddenly brought up by the most perfect "Gabel"
some eight feet wide and about twenty-five feet deep with
perpendicular sides. The ridge here is flat topped, from
two to three feet wide. Both sides are perpendicular for
some thirty or forty feet, and the ridge looks exactly like
a thick wall. Loose rocks enforce great care in negoti-
ating the "Gabel" but it is the last difficulty, and the
actual summit is reached immediately after (11.45 a.m.).

The same route was followed on the way down.

84 Canadian All^ine Journal.

Leaving the main summit at 12.5 p.m. the "Gabel", where
a rope had been left, was passed at 12.15. After building
a second cairn, south of the Gabel, the difficult crack was
passed at 10.15 reaching tiie snow at the foot of the face
at 2.45 p.m. Resting near the lake from 3.5 to 3.40 camp
was reached at 4.45 p.m.

It is quite possible to traverse from the south to the
north peak and the north peak also seems accessible from
the col between Ringrose and Yukness. We could
not investigate further for we were due at Sherbrooke
Lake that night but only managed to reach Hector. The
lowest depression in the main ridge between Ringrose
and Hungabee, from where the latter can probably be
climbed, may be reached from the lower of the two
hoiizontal ledges of the S.W. face by a horizontal
traverse to the south and a scramble up some easy rocks.

Glacier Peak

(10,831 FEET.)

On August 4th, 1909, C. A. Richardson, A. R. Hart,
L. C. Wilson, all of the A.C.C., and the writer made the
f?rst ascent of this mountain. Leaving the camp at Lake
O'Hara at 8.20 a.m.. Lake Oeesa was reached at 9.30 and
10 minutes taken for a final survey of the peak. A direct
attack is out of the question owing to two hanging
glaciers which threaten the whole of N.W. face. It is
probably possible to scale the rocks immediately north of
the hanging glacier nearest to Mt. Lefroy and thus reach
the less steep upper slopes of this glacier; said rocks ap-
pear to be frequently swept by falling stones and afiford
practically no cover. The only other possible line of
attack lies up a deeply cut but not very steep snow filled
couloir leading to a gap in the main ridge between
Ringrose and Glacier Peak. This couloir is not threaten-
ed by either hanging glacier and affords an easy and
tolerably safe point of attack. It is best to keep close to

i*—-

o
a

O g

Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. 85

the very steep rock walls on its north side; they afford
good protection. Going up some screes and a small
glacier the bergschrund was soon reached and easily
passed. From 11 to 11:20 was devoted to lunch in a
protected spot well up in the couloir. At 12.15 came the
first easy opportunity to take to the rocks on the north
side; at this point, which is quite close to the gap, a
broad ledge covered with loose stones runs horizontally
into the couloir. A traverse north looks tempting but is
not advisable. Near the main ridge and running nearly
parallel to it is seen the mouth of a steep narrow and ice
filled couloir; keeping on its north side and as high up
as practicable fair progress is made over extremely rotten
rocks requiring the greatest care. It soon becomes pos-
sible to reach the crest of the rib on the north side of
said couloir; this affords much greater safety. The gen-
eral line of ascent from this point is a rapidly rising one,
bearing but slightly north. The main ridge was reached
at 1.15 p.m. without special difficulty and very soon
afterwards the party stood at the foot of the peak itself
after having turned the last rocks of the main arete on
the north over an ice slope covered with about one half-
inch of hard snow closely adhering to the ice. Traversing
to the faintly marked S.W. ridge of the last peak, which
looks like a pyramid of rock rising out of the snow and
ice, the cornice crowned summit was easily reached at
2 p.m. It is just possible that this peak can be reached
from Paradise Valley. The upper parts of the east face
appeared easy; it was, however, not possible to see the
lower portions. Hungabee and Ringrose look very im-
posing from the summit but still more so from the point
where the main ridge was struck. Leaving the summit
at 3 p.m. and following the same route at a leisurely
pace, the top of the couloir was reached at 4.30, the
bergschrund at 5.10, Oeesa Lake at 5.35 and camp at
6.55 p.m.

86 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Park Mountain
(9,671 feet)

From Lake O'Hara Camp to McArthur Lake one
hour fifteen minutes. The simplest way to reach Park
Mountain from here is to make for the lowest depression
in the ridge between Park Mountain and Mt. Biddle, and
then follow the scree arete to summit. The lowest de-
pression in this ridge is reached by a steep rock and snow
couloir in its N.E. face. It is easily seen from north end

of lake.

On July 22nd, 1909, the writer went up the N.E.
face itself. The first rock buttress is overcome by means
of a couloir close to the north end of lake— then up steep
snow slopes to foot of rock rib descending from the ap-
parent summit. Follow this rib gradually bearing west
and reach the north ridge near summit — complete ascent
by west side of north ridge — rocks rotten and fairly
difficult. The real summit is a long, nearly horizontal,
ridge east of the apparent summit. Three hours from
lake shore. Descending follow the south arete and then
strike west down to McArthur Creek traversing north
wherever possible, so as not to lose too much in height.
No difficulty on this side but very rotten rocks. The
stream at foot of McArthur Pass is reached in two hours
twenty minutes.

Mt. Sir Donald — Selkirk Range, B.C.

By the N.W.W. Arete

(10,808 feet)

This arete referred to as the north arete in the
"Selkirk Range, B.C." and is the one joining Sir Donald
to Uto Peak. It was first climbed in 1902 by Mr. E.
Tewes with the guides E. Feuz senior and Chas. Bohren.
On August 18th, 1909, A. M. Bartleet (A.C., A.C.C.) and
V. A. Fynn (S.A.C.Uto, A.A.C.Z., A.C.C.) climbed the

Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. 87

mountain by this arete, descending by the ordinary route.
Tht weather was perfect, the rocks dry. Left Glacier
House at 3.15 a.m. reaching south of Vaux Glacier at 5.05.
Followed ordinary route to the top of right hand (north)
moraine, then took to grass slopes at foot of S.W. face of
peak, traversing to col between Sir Donald and Uto Peak.
Reached col at 6.40 a.m. and summit at 11.25 a.m. The
arete was followed as closely as possible, difficulties being
mostly avoided by taking to the N.E. face until near the
summit, when an easy traverse on the left hand face is
clearly indicated. The rocks are steep but afiford plenty
of holds. Some care is required as a number of boulders
are loose; apart from this the climb is absolutely safe and
cannot be considered difficult in favorable conditions.
Left summit at 1 p.m., reached the breakfast place at
2.50 by way of the Feuz chimney, left rocks at 3.30,
reached top of north moraine at 3.50 and Glacier House
at 5.20 p.m.

88 Canadian Al{>ine Journal.

ON MOUNT HOOD

By Frank W. Freehorn.

Mt. Hood is the scenic pride of Oregon. With its
11,225 feet of altitude it is plainly visible, in ordinarily-
clear weather, from Portland, fifty miles away. Even at
that distance its bulk and height and whiteness and
symmetrical shape are most impressive. It is one of the
Ime of volcanic peaks that dominate the Cascade Range
from Baker in Washington to Shasta in California.
Though it has had no violent eruption in historic times
it is still sending out steam and sulphurous fumes. Its
lower slopes, to the height of 6000 feet, are overspread
with forests; above that nearly all its surface is covered
with glaciers.

The most convenient point from which to climb the
mountain is Cloud Cap Inn on its northern side. The Inn
is a long, low, log structure, built near timber line on a
rocky buttress directly in front of the foot of the Eliot
Glacier. The house is exceedingly well managed and
comfortable; but as its attractions are well appreciated
and its accommodations are limited any party larger
than one should write or wire ahead for room. The
address is Mt. Hood P.O., Oregon.

A railway ride of 55 miles from Portland along the
south bank of the Columbia River brings one to Hood
River, a bustling town with good hotels. From there it
is twenty-eight miles south to Cloud Cap Inn. An auto-
mobile provided by the management of the Inn took us
the first twenty-four miles. Our route lay straight up
the Hood River Valley, famous for its apple orchards.
Ahead of us loomed the big white mountain, its head

F. TV. Frei'buni, Photo

MT. HOOD FROM CLOUD CAP IXN

.^^/'•^ V-.

iS'

F. W. Freeborn, Photo

THE SUMMIT OF MT. HOOD

On Mount Hood. 89

wrapped in clouds. No rain had fallen for over six weeks
and the road and all vegetation for rods on either side
were buried in dust. The last four miles of the journey
was made in a mountain wagon and took just two hours.
It was a steep road all the way through a noble forest of
spruce and fir and pine. But the powdered volcanic dust
that filled the narrow road was ankle deep, and as the
horses slowly wallowed through it, that part of the trip
was far from comfortable. From the time we left the
lower valley the woods about us and the nearer hills
through which we mounted had shut out all views of
Hood. But when we reached the Inn, we came face to
face with the majestic, glacier-covered cone, close at hand
and towering as far above us as Lefroy stands above
Lake Louise or Temple above Paradise Valley. From
the platform on the roof of the Inn we looked off over
the country we had just traversed. Fortunately the air
was clear of smoke, and in the north and northwest rose
the mighty, volcanic brothers of Hood, Adams and
Rainer and St. Helens.

My purpose was to climb Hood the next day with
the local guide, but as the weather seemed doubtful I
could make no definite arrangement. The next morning
was perfect, but the guide (there is only one) would not
budge. He offered sundry trumped-up excuses, but later
developments showed that he was already booked for an
ascent the following day and did not care to climb two
days in succession. But I really lost no time, for I had
a most interesting solitary tramp over the Eliot Glacier.
The next day was also fine and we started at 7 o'clock.
A young man named Sharp, from a near-by town, was
my chance comrade and shared the attentions of the
guide with me. Our route lay for a few minutes through
a forested depression, and then we gradually mounted
along the bare, curving ridge of Cooper's Spur that
bounds the Eliot Glacier on the east. In two hours we

90 Canadian Alpine Journal.

reached the base of the cone of Hood at an elevation of
probably 8400 feet. There we roped. The method was
new to me. Each man was provided with a belt of very
thick heavy leather about six inches wide. To the side of
this belt was attached a line of the usual size of about fif-
teen feet long. The end of this was made fast to a ring in
the next man's belt. The contrivance was stiff and heavy
and at times inconvenient; its advantage lay in the ease
with which any member of the party could be detached.

Our route now lay over the glacier nearly to the sum-
mit. The snow on the glacier was in good condition but
so deeply furrowed and pitted that foot-holds were treach-
erous and rapid progress difficult. The slope grew steeper,
and after climbing an hour upon it we came to a crevasse
like a bergschrund running quite across that face. At
that point we found the end of a stout rope 1250 feet long
hanging on the snow curtain over a convenient ice bridge.
The other end of the rope was fast to a rock not far
below the mountain top. But for this rope, put there by
the management of the Inn, we should have had to cut
many steps in the next stage of an ascent. As it was
we made good use of it, and after an hour slipping and
kicking in uncertain foot-holds and steadying and pull-
ing ourselves up with our arms we reached the ledge to
which the rope was anchored. Then, with ten or twelve
minutes of easy climbing, we stood upon Mazama Rock,
the northeast corner of the summit of Hood just four
and a half hours from Cloud Cap Inn. The climb had
been needlessly rapid and I was too exhausted to share a
breakfast with the others. I hope to climb Hood again
some day, and I shall then take at least five hours and a
half and do it comfortably.

At the summit we met two men who had climbed up
the other side from Government Camp. The ascent on
that side is not so steep as ours had been, but it is twice
as long; and Government Camp is not nearly so access-

On Mount Hood. 91

ible from Portland as Cloud Cap Inn. If I had climbed
the mountain for distant views alone I should have been
disappointed. The smoke of forest fires so filled the air
that no good views were to be had beyond the base of the
mountain. Only in the north, fifty miles away, the pon-
derous glacier crown of Adams floated high in mid air, a
thousand feet above the top of Hood, without any appar-
ent support. It was a grand weird sight. But Hood itself
was most interesting. Spurs of brown and black rock
ran down all sides like the ribs of an umbrella; the wide
spaces between them were filled with glaciers down to the
tree line. A wide gash in the southwest side of the
mountain ended a thousand feet below in a ragged pit
from which issued clouds of steam. We judged this pit
was probably the source of the sulphurous fumes that
came to us on the wind as we were climbing.

After an hour spent at the summit we began our
descent, picking our way carefully down to the cliffs
where the safety rope was anchored. But from the time
we grasped that rope until we reached the fairly level
glacier at the base of the cone, our progrss was a sense-
less, reckless plunge down the mountain side. We
covered in 45 minutes, including a stop to photograph the
crescent crevasse, what we had taken 135 minutes to
climb. There we unroped; and as Mr. Sharp and the
guide were eager to get back to the hotel as soon as
possible I gave them my blessing and bade them good-
bye. They disappeared over the cliff to find a short cut,
and a little later I saw them hustling along over the Eliot
Glacier far below, I made my way leisurely back by the
morning's route, stopping to eat my now welcome lunch,
and loitering to study the mountain and enjoy the scen-
ery. In two and a half hours after we left the summit of
Hood I was at Cloud Cap Inn.

98 CanaJiati Alpine Journal.

THE FIRST TRAVERSE OF MOUNT VICTORIA

By G. W. Culver.

The climb that I am about to describe was made
early in last September. I was then at Lake Louise for
only a few days, but was fortunate enough to find both
of the guides stationed there, Edward Feuz, junior, and
Rudolf Aemmer, free from engagrements. As a result I
determined to make an attempt to traverse the Victoria
Ridge, and with this intention left the Chalet, with Feuz
and Aemmer, about 1 a.m. on Saturday. September 4th.
The weather had caused us some anxiet\ on the previous
evening, but at midnight it was bright and clear with
every promise of so remaining.

For three hours or more we followed the customary
route, first skirting the lake shore and then traversing
the Moraine. We kept well to the right, however, and
to about 4.30 a.m. began to ascend the bluff, grass-cover-
ed shoulder which we had been paralleling for sometime.
Before long we reached the tongue of quite an extensive
ice sheet which sloped upwards rather sharply. We now
roped with Aemmer in the lead and Feuz bringing up the
rear, an order which we preserved throughout the climb.
Thanks to our crampons the glacier caused us little
delay, and at 7.30 a.m. we were standing upon a shoulder
of the arete itself. Here we disposed of a light meal, and
then, pushing on rapidly, we reached the north peak of
Mount Victoria at 10 o'clock. This peak is only slightly
lower than the actual summit of Mount Victoria, and, as
it was a bright day, we obtained a splendid view in all
directions. From the north peak the summit itself
appeared to be very close, and one of the guides esti-

The First Traverse of Mount Victoria. 93

mated — how wrongly it later devolved — that it would
not take more than four or five hours to reach it.

We soon began, however, to realize that our diffi-
culties were still before us. For two hours after leaving
the north peak our progress became increasingly slower,
but by 12 o'clock we had arrived at the furthest point
previously reached by any party, and here we decided to
stop for a second meal. We were now apparently about
midway between the north peak and the summit. Where
we stood the arete was broken by a deep depression, and,
when, after a short rest, we again started forward, we
found it necessary to lower ourselves by a sling to the
level of that part of the ridge which was immediately
below us. This cleft in the arete marked what was really
our first difficulty, but a succession of others followed
fast. It seemed almost incredible that any such saw-
toothed formation could exist as the remaining part of
the Victoria arete proved to be. Jagged pinnacles, or
gendarmes, jutted sharply upward from the ridge in
countless numbers. Some of these we surmounted ;
others we were forced to circle around, but always upon
the left side of the face for the wall upon the right was
absolutely sheer. Almost everywhere the rock was ter-
ribly treacherous. So rotten was it indeed, that time and
again a projecting portion which appeared to ofifer a firm
hold would break off at the slightest touch.

Needless to say our rate of progress was not very
rapid, and between 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock it was particu-
larly slow, I distinctly recall one hour, spent in skirting
the base of a rock tower, in which each of us moved the
distance of half the length of the rope only four times.
By 6 o'clock, however, we had reached a part of the ridge
where the rock was a great deal firmer. We were then
able to advance much more quickly, and at 7 p.m. we
arrived at the summit. Naturally enough it was a very
brief halt that we made upon the summit, for already it

94 Canoiiian Alpine Journal.

was beginning to grow dark. An hour later it l)ecame
pitch black, and we were forced to stop and wait for the
moon. Meanwhile, a strong wind had sprung up, and the
two and a half hours that we were compelled to spend
upon an exposed part of the arete were far from pleasant
ones. At 10.30 p.m. the moon, then its last quarter, had
begun to show over the crest of Mount Lefroy, and once
more we started forward. Even now there were some
slight difficulties to be encountered. The moon gave but
a very dim light, and at times was entirely obscured by
clouds ; the wind, too, was so strong that it was not easy
to keep the lanterns burning; and we were further delay-
ed by the necessity of cutting steps whenever we des-
cended snow slopes, for the surface of the snow was hard
and icy. Consequently, it was not until 2.30 a.m. that
we reached the head of Abbot Pass. Three hours later
we unroped upon the moraine. There we rested for a
short time, and then pushed on rapidly toward the Chalet,
which we reached at 8 a.m.

There are, I think, two outstanding difficulties in the
traverse which I have just described. The one consists
in the great length of time which this particular climb
requires. It almost inevitably entails spending a night,
or at least a considerable portion of one, in some exposed
position. The second difficulty and of course much the
more serious one, results from the untrustworthy nature
of the rock. Much of the greater portion of the Victoria
Ridge which lies between the north peak and the summit
is formed of rock which has so suffered through process
of decay that it is absolutely crumbling away. Certain
harder portions of the ridge have naturally withstood
the process better than the softer ones, and hence the
many towers and pinnacles already referred to. Were it
not, however, for the intense rottenness of its formation,
and as well, perhaps, its unusually great length, I could
not conceive of a more interesting bit of mountaineering
than that to be found in a traverse of the arete of Mount
Victoria.

Over the Wilson and Duchesnay Passes. 95

OVER THE WILSON AND DUCHESNAY PASSES.

Mrs. a. H. MacCarthy.

After the Alpine Club camp of 1909 had passed into
history, a party of six members of the Club made a trip
into the beautiful Ice River Valley, going in by way of
the Beaverfoot River trail with horses. We had been
in camp at the head of the valley for some days, and the
men of the party had made a successful attempt on the
long-coveted North Tower of Mt. Goodsir, on which I
had longed to accompany them, even while realizing that
it was beyond me.

A suggestion that we should make the return journey
to Field on foot, over the intervening passes, sounded
very attractive as a wind-up to my first visit to the
Canadian Rockies ; so, on the following morning, no
others being enthusiastic enough to join us, Mr. J. P.
Forde, Mr. P. D. McTavish and I, set out on our air-line
trip. None of us had ever been in the region which we
pioposed to traverse, but we knew the general direction
and started with the intention of travelling until we
reached some place. We did not know how long the trip
would take and, therefore, took a supply of provisions
and a quilt for my use at night.

After leaving camp we followed the Ice River almost
to its source, and then kept along the side of the valley
leading to the ridge which Mr. Whymper had named the
Wilson Pass. After a hard struggle through dense
underbrush, relieved by patches of wild strawberries,
raspberries and blueberries, we were forced to take to
the bed of the stream, which appeared to come from near
the Pass. From then until we reached the summit of the
Pass, at an elevation of about 8400 feet, the travelling

96 Canadian Alpine Journal.

was easy, though steep, as for a great part of the way we
were able to follow goat trails, and in one instance fol-
lowed the goats themselves, which kept just ahead of us
until they apparently vanished into thin air on reaching
the top of the ridge. The easterly side of the ridge over-
hangs a small glacier which we reached through a little
chimney, and we then made our way down the glacier
by steps cut in the ice. After a long descent over loose
rock, and then through dense timber, we reached Goodsir
Creek. It was now evident that we would not reach
Field that night ; so, after following the creek for some
distance, we halted for the night in time to allow for
gathering a good supply of firewood before dark. After
a hearty supper, the cooking of which was almost as en-
joyable as the supper itself, I wrapped myself warmly in
the quilt and spent a most comfortable night beside the
roaring fire kept on by the men, though towards morn-
ing I took my turn at tending the fire and helped to
prepare breakfast.

We were off again at daylight, leaving the quilt to
decorate a tree and mayhap gladden the eye of some
belated traveller. The rising sun, tingeing with pink the
four peaks of Mt. Goodsir, was a sight worth lingering to
enjoy, but we had a long trip ahead of us and set out at
a good pace to the confluence of the Ottertail River and
Goodsir Creek. Here, in a few minutes, we caught some
trout, and from there on saw fish in all the streams. A
short trip across some lovely park-like stretches brought
us to McArthur Creek about a mile above its junction
with the Ottertail River, and then came the most stren-
uous part of the whole expedition. For hours we strug-
gled through dense brush on the bank of the creek and
across innumerable slides overgrown with alder, taking
turns at breaking the trail, which in this case meant
tearing the tangled limbs and brush apart so that we
could force our way through them.

®=«1^"

iJ«R*jA,

II I I I III rt» <' i Hill >>' " -^Ofc.- •"f*6EL"^^i ■*.'>^ -i^ '•6?iiT~-^^»jM& t?= E-^rrETT'

ass:^i^ -"^T^-^fv^K^S*^! J89t-*^^iF^ \.S^^-^»^ >»«^>»*i*!^ ^v:"^**x~ , •• ," >-^ -^^•^■*;-^- _>■

Mrs. A. H. MacCarthy, Photo

THE HEAD OF ICE RIVER

Mrs. A. H. MacCarthy, Photo

THE GOODSIR RIDGE
Wilson Pass

Over the Wilson and Duchcsnay Passes. 97

Close to the Forks of McArthur Creek we took a
short rest and drank the last of our tea, and much re-
freshed, set out along the West Fork of the creek for
the Duchesnay Pass. Shortly after lunch I was so un-
fortunate as to fall into a deep pool, out of which I was
most unceremoniously pulled by my companions, but not
before I was thoroughly soaked, making travelling very
heavy for me for the rest of the day.

Late in the afternoon we reached a large amphi-
theatre lying between Mts. Owen, Odaray, and Duchnes-
nay, at the head of which was a high ridge, which we
fondly hoped would prove to be the Duchesnay Pass.
Imagine our disgust therefore, when, after a long upward
pull, the latter part of which was a hard scramble over
fine slippery scree, we reached the ridge at an elevation
of about 8000 ft. to see below us a drop into the valley of
Boulder Creek, which lay at the foot of an utterly impas-
sible wall of rotten rock, almost 2000 ft. high.

It was now beginning to get dark, we had still to
cross the Duchnesna}- and Dennis Passes, the exact
location of which we were ignorant of, and all my clothes
were as wet as possible. As it was imperative that I
should leave for the East on the following day we decid-
ed to attempt to reach Field by another route before
making a retreat to timber line to spend the night, which
was apparently what was before us. We therefore re-
traced our steps a short distance, traversed the side of the
long ridge connecting Mts. Duchesnay and Odaray, and
after some prospecting found a passable slope down
v/hich we managed to crawl on to the Duchesnay Glacier.
We crossed the glacier and climbed to the summit of the
Duchesnay Pass, from which we saw one of the finest
sunsets it has ever been my good fortune to witness . We
then made our way down on the west side of the Pass
and traversed the steep side of a shoulder of Mt. Stephen
until we reached the summit of the Dennis Pass at about

98 Canadian Alpine Journal.

7.30. Here we caught sight of the lights in the village
of Field, lying about 3000 feet below us, and only taking
time to untie and coil our rope, we scrambled down the
scree and rolled and slid through the burnt timber as
quickly as the darkness would permit. We soon reached
the creek which flows from the Mt. Stephen amphi-
theatre, during the crossing of which I managed to pull
Mr. Forde into it, escaping myself this time, and quickly
gained the trail leading to the village.

We now felt that our troubles were over, and hur-
ried down the trail by lantern light to the hotel, which
we reached at 9.30 p.m., and sat down to a much-needed
and highly appreciated supper, even the remarks of the
tourists in the hotel upon my costume having no effect
on my appetite, which had been growing keener every
minute since noon. So ended one of the most exciting
and strenuous, and at the same time one of the most
enjoyable experiences of our lives.

Second Ascent of Mt. Biddle. 99

SECOND ASCENT OF MT. BIDDLE.

FIRST ASCENT MT. VICTORIA BY SOUTH

ROUTE.

By J. P. FoRDE.

The first ascent of Mt. Biddle, 10,876 feet, was made
from a camp in Prospector's Valley, near the Eagle's
Eyrie, in 1903. The second party to make the ascent was
camped at Lake O'Hara, with the Alpine Club of Canada,
in August, 1909. The party consisted of Messrs. J. Watt,
J. J. Trorey, M. Goddard and J. P. Forde, with Guide
Gottfried Feuz.

The start from the camp was made at 6 o'clock and
the trail followed to the west end of Lake McArthur.
The south bank of the lake was taken, to avoid the ne-
cessity of crossing the Biddle Glacier. Whilst going
along the lake a gradual ascent was made and when the
head of it was reached about half the ascent up the
southerly ridge, lying between Lake McArthur and
Misko Creek, had been made. The summit of the ridge
was gained by a direct ascent, partly on fairly good rock
and partly up a snow couloir. The ridge was then fol-
lowed towards the mountain until it was seen that it
would be very difficult, if at all possible, to make the
entire ascent from the south side. A descent of a few
hundred feet was then made into an intervening valley,
and the southeasterly ridge gained, where a light lunch
was taken at 10 o'clock. After this ridge was crossed
and the next valley had been traversed the easterly
ridge, overloking Prospector's Valley, was climbed, and
a second lunch eaten. Here the rope was put on and the

100 Canadian Alpine Journal.

real ascent begun at 12.30. For several hundred feet the
arete was followed, the climbing being very steep, the
rock poor, and at places the arete assuming a knife edge,
overhanging the valley to the north and with an almost
perpendicular descent into the valley to the south. As
the main peak had to be reached from the south a traverse
of the easterly face became necessary after a time, and
two attempts were made to cross it before a suitable
place was found. The mountain was not in good condi-
tion for climbing, on account of the steep slopes being
icy, with a light covering of loose snow, which threaten-
ed to avalanche at any moment, and the greatest care
was necessary on the traverse.

When the base of the main peak was reached, after
a scramble up a scree-covered ridge, the foot of the wall
was followed until a chimney immediately above the
south ridge was reached. After a fairly easy climb up
this chimney a walk of a couple of hundred feet to the
summit ended the ascent, at 2.30 p.m. Here the bottle
left by Dr. Eggers and Professor Parker, at the time of
the first ascent, was found in their cairn.

The descent was begun after a few minutes and the
same route was taken to camp, except that the south
ridge was avoided. A blinding snowstorm was passed
through in the afternoon and as soon as Lake McArthur
was reached rain was encountered, which accompanied
the party into camp at 9.30 p.m., the second ascent of the
mountain having taken fifteen and a half hours.

South Route to Summit of Mt. Victoria.

During the Alpine Club camp of 1909 at Lake
O'Hara, a party consisting of Mrs. A. H. MacCarthy,
A. M. Gordon and M. Goddard, under the leadership of
J. P. Forde, made the first ascent of Mt. Victoria, 11,355
feet, from the south side.

The party, after passing around the east end of Lake

First Ascent of Mt. Victoria by South Rotitc. 101

O'Hara, ascended to the saddle between Mt. Ruber and
the Wiwaxy Peaks. From there- the usual route up Mt.
Huber was followed to the north side of the mountain,
into the valley between Mts. Huber and Victoria. The
course then led to the left, around the head of the valley,
until the end of the bergschrund on the south side of Mt.
Victoria was reached. Rounding the end of the schrund
a short traverse led to the foot of the rock wall facing
Mt. Huber. From where the snow on Mt. Huber was
first reached to this point the climbing was very good,
though the ice in the steps previously made on Mt. Huber
and the hard snow on the south side of Mt. Victoria
necessitated the cutting of a large amount of steps. The
ascent of the wall was made on the rock beside a snow
chimney about 400 feet high, to the long arete of Mt.
Victoria, and the usual route along the arete followed to
the summit, which was reached at noon, after a six hours'
climb. The day was beautifully clear and the views to
be had, particularly of the Lake Louise Valley, were
magnificent. A leisurely descent by the same route,
except that on return the westerly end of Lake O'Hara
was taken, brought the party to camp at 5 o'clock.

This route provides a much shorter and easier climb
of the mountain than the one from Lake Louise to the
head of Abbot's Pass, and the long and tedious walk
along the ridge from Abbot's Pass to the summit is
avoided. On the portion of the ridge traversed on the
above climb the snow was dangerously corniced in a
number of places, and great care was necessary in avoid-
ing these cornices. Some step cutting was required along
the ridge, though the generously large footstep of a
party who had made the ascent from Lake Louise a few
days previously were of immense assistance to the Alpine
Club party. Where no cornice existed the arete was fol-
lowed, the party walking for some time with one foot
on the Atlantic and the other foot on the Pacific water-
sheds.

102 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Had it not been that all the members of this party
had been across Abbot's Pass on the previous day they
would have returned by that route, and for parties who
have never been over the Pass this would form an inter-
esting variation of the climb.

A Short Trip in the Selkirks. 103

A SHORT TRIP IN THE SELKIRKS.

By R. R. Copeland.

Most of the high peaks visible from Revelstoke had
in previous years been ascended jointly by Harry Sieg-
fried and the writer, but there remained one that towered
over all the rest, which had not yet been scaled, Albert
Peak, 9998 ft.

Taking the train on August 30th, 1909, to Twin
Butte, we walked east along the track and had lunch at
Twin Creek. A fair start was made at 1 p.m., walking
along the track for another half mile to a point where a
shoulder from Albert Peak comes close to the track.
Just to the left of where we ascended there was an out-
crop of rock.

The going was found very good, as going goes in
this part of the country, but the day was exceptionally
warm, and there was no standing timber to afford com-
forting shelter from the hot rays of the sun. We had
realized before starting that there was little chance of
any water before reaching the top of this shoulder, so
a steady gait was kept up and the plateau reached after a
climb of over 4000 feet. As by this time it was getting
dusk, it was decided to camp, although there was little
chance for water. Dropping our packs I left Harry to
prepare camp, making towards a small gully, in the
hopes of finding a little of the precious liquid.

This proved to us to be almost the most interesting
part of our trip, for I had not proceeded far through the
tangle of fallen and burnt trees, before I saw a bear run-
ning into a small clump of alders. Not being equipped
for a bear hunt, having only my light ice-axe, I made a

10-4 Canadian Alpine Journal.

detour round the clump, intent on investigating the gully
for water. But the bear, a huge, lanky, old silver-tip,
was evidently of a suspicious nature, for he left his shel-
ter and walked slowly in the direction I had left my
companion. Calling out that he might expect a visitor
shortly, I stumbled on through the gathering dusk, when
once more our visitor changed his mind and decided to
become more closely acquainted with me. Climbing on
top of a large fallen log, I brandished my ice-axe using
the full power of my vocabulary and lungs in the vain
effort to inspire Bruin with fear. Hearing my eloquent
language, Harry was by this time hurrying towards me,
although out of sight behind a low rise of ground. Even
though our visitor did not appear to have hostile inten-
tions towards me, I rather resented his familiarity, and
when within half a dozen paces, I made a flying leap
towards him. These sudden tactics on my part, changed
his mind, and he started on the run as hard as he could
in the direction of Harry, while I followed in hot pursuit
to aid the latter, if necessary. Mr. Bruin quickly disap-
peared over the top of the rise, and a wild yell of defiance
from my companion notified me that he had introduced
himself to our visitor. A moment later the latter once
more appeared on the top of the rise and again seeing me,
ran off at a tangent into some adjoining big timber, leav-
ing me undisturbed to rejoin my peaceful quest for water ;
which, however, proved fruitless. By the time I return-
ed to camp it was quite dark, and I found that the bear
had once more shown himself, but only for a moment,
distrusting my companion, who, by the way, can give a
yell like the proverbial Comanche.

Putting up our small shelter tent we were soon
eating a well-earned repast, which was, however, rather
of a dry nature. We then rolled in and were soon asleep.
I would here like to point out that it is comparatively
easy to do without water for a considerable period, if you

A Short Trip in the Selkirks. 105

make up your mind from the start that it is very probable
you will have to do without it. Experience has taught
both of us that to allow the mind to dwell upon the
cravings of thirst and continually to be expecting to
relieve it aggravates the symptoms a hundred-fold. In
time one certainly gets genuinely weak — no doubt to a
great extent owing to the accompanying difficulty of par-
taking of a sufficient quantity of solid food — but with a
calm mind the actual craving need be little more than a
slightly unpleasant experience for the time being.

At 4.30 next morning a good start was made after
partaking of a light breakfast. Ahead and a little to the
left of us we could see a long green slide covered with
grass and flowers, and up this we ascended till once more
we reached the edge of the "hogsback". Down on the
other side we could see a small stream flowing, but as
this seemed at the time out of our general route, we kept
on up the " hogsback" till we reached Wheeler's survey
station — North Twin, 8033 feet — at 10 a.m., where we
found snow. A fire was soon made with a little dry
heath and the help of some dry wood which Harry
fetched from a distance below; and by 10.30 we were
enjoying our first drink since leaving the railway, in the
shape of some steaming hot soup. After a good rest it
was decided that our best route lay across the basin
where we had seen the stream, and, accordingly, we
clambered down once more, finding an old camping
ground, used I believe by M. P. Bridgland, while on a
suivey. Here a comfortable camp was made, an early
supper enjoyed and then a quiet evening walk taken to
reconnoitre for the morrow's climb.

The next morning broke clear and beautiful. A
hearty breakfast was enjoyed, some lunch packed up, and
a start made from camp at 5.30. Crossing some
meadows, aglow with flowers, we reached the foot of the
beautiful little glacier lying between Albert Peak and

106 Canadian Alpine Journal.

North Albert Peak. The foot of it was perched above
us on the edge of what might be termed one of the upper
steps of a huge staircase. We kept to the next lower
step, which was in one place littered with the remains of
seracs, fallen from the glacier above. Below us, down
the valley constituting the main source of East Twin
Creek, could be seen the lower worn steps of this giant
winding staircase, vacated by the glacier in past ages.

Here we halted for a few minutes to decide on the
best means of reaching the main arete extending from
far down the valley, right up to the summit. To go
down in the valley and climb from the base of the arete
looked by far the most simple route, but this v/ould
entail a very long, tedious climb, so it was decided to
climb right up the face of the arete, immediately on the
far side of the foot of the glacier. Between us and the
cliff lay a long lateral moraine, up which we trudged,
and then up the rocks. These were found to be in very
rotten condition in most places. The cliff was composed,
more or less, of alternate layers of white marble and dark
coloured, rotten limestone; and observation soon showed
us that, where possible, it was advisable to keep to the
ledges where the marble predominated. The height
from the moraine to the edge of the arete above was
possibly only 800 feet, yet this portion occupied us for
several hours, and from a mountaineering point of view
v/as quite interesting. After finally overcoming this por-
tion, we found the edge of the arete quite firm and a long,
exhilarating scramble of about 2000 feet brought us at
J. 30 finally to the summit. This consists seemingly of a
horizontal ridge about a hundred feet in length lying at
right angles to the arete up which we had climbed.
After lunch a small stone-man was built against a large
boulder, and possession taken of the peak in the name of
the Alpine Club of Canada and of the Revelstoke Moun-
taineering Club.

A Short Trip in the Sclkirks. 107

The air was rather hazy on account of bush fires ;
still, we could easily distinguish our old friend and
neighbor, Mt. Begbie, towards the west; while in the
other direction, we could make out Sir Donald and the
group of mountains in its vicinity. Far below us, be-
tween our peak and North Albert Peak lay the beautiful
little glacier before mentioned, which was very badly
broken up at its lower extremity, evidently where it pre-
cipitated itself over the huge "steps," forming enormous
seracs and an incredibly wide crevasse reaching clear
across the glacier. Near the base of the arete nestled a
beautiful emerald-green alpine lake, while beyond was the
range lying between the two Twin Creeks, the whole
forming a glorious picture. The climb down, and the
ensuing tramp across the long meadows in the gorgeous
lingering sunset brought us to camp with ravenous
appetites. After a refreshing night's rest, an early start
was made for the railway, which was reached in time to
catch No. 5 for Revelstoke, well pleased with our annual
mountain climb.

108 Canadian Alpine Journal.

SCIENTIFIC SECTION.

» ♦ ■

GEOLOGY AND GLACIAL FEATURES OF
MT. ROBSON.

By a. p. Coleman.

Though Mt. Robson has been seen and admired by
travellers ever since 1865, when Milton and Cheadle
described its splendor, it had apparently never been
actually visited by white men before 1907, when a party
consisting of Mr. L. Q. Coleman, Mr. George Kinney and
the writer reached its southern face. In the following
summer the same pnrty had an opportunity to study
it from the opposite side, and it is intended here to give
a general account of its geology and glacial features as
then worked out.

The region along the Yellowhead Pass was briefly
described and mapped by Mr. J. McEvoy in 1900, and
his outline of the geology will be followed here. In his
map a band of the Castle mountain series (Upper Cam-
brian) is represented as covering the area of Mt Robson,
and he describes this series as made up principally of
quartzite and limestone. My own observations agree
with this ; and as no undoubted fossils were found by
us, we have no reason to change his classification.

On the south side of the mountain along the small
eastern branch of Grand Forks River grayish and purpl-
ish quartzite is found up to about 1,000 feet from the
base. Above this along the canyon we found gray lime-
stone, sometimes containing chert, and the same rock

wv^tcifi*.

SY)\oh] Rj

^cat-

Mt. "Robs 0 71^

Mi'Us

Geology and Glacial Features of Mt. Robson. 109

occurs north of Lake Kinney in the valley of the main
Grand Forks River, and as far up as Berg Lake Since
the boulders brought down from Mt Robson by glaciers
seem all to be of similar bluish gray limestone weather-
ing yellow or brown, it appears that the mountain as a
whole is built of nearly flat lying limestone resting on
quartzite, the latter rock showing only on the south side
where the Grand Forks and its tributaries have cut most
deeply.

Though the rocks as a whole lie nearly horizontal,
they have an upward bend to the south and also to the
north. This is especially marked where the quartzite
comes up from beneath the limestone on the southern
buttresses of the mountain, the strata curving rapidly
upwards with inclinations of from 30 degrees to 70
degrees to the north. On mountains farther south the
dip becomes vertical or even somewhat overturned.

On the northwest side of Mt. Robson, at the falls
near Berg Lake, on the other hand, the limestone dips
southeast with an inclination of about 10 degrees; and
near the main glacier thinly bedded limestone dips south
at about 25 degrees. In the range of mountains to the
northwest of the Berg Lake Valley the dip is about the
same. To the east of the main glacier the Ptarmigan
and Lynx Mountains show a gentle dip westwards.

From the structural point of view Mt. Robson re-
presents the bottom of a syncline or basin with gentle
inclinations from all sides. The more expanded and
shattered forms around it, once probably parts of anti-
clines, have suffered far more from the destructive
forces than the slightly compressed and, therefore,
strengthened parts of the syncline.

In both rocks and structural features Mt. Robson is
of a very simple type. It is surrounded on three sides,
northwest, southwest, and south, by deep valleys, from
which it rises in splendid unscalable cliffs. On these

110 Canadian Alpine Journal.

sides erosion is going on rapidly by the action of frost
and weather, while the rivers are cutting back their
canyons to the northwest and northeast.

The Grand Forks River may be said to rise in the
main glacier of Mt. Robson, flowing over a flat cone of
debris derived from the glacier and spreading into a
tangled skein of distributaries before entering Berg Lake.
From this it fiows southwest over cliiTs with a succession
of water-falls having a total height of 1,500 feet. The
valley then turns for a mile to the south and is encum-
bered with immense blocks of limestone which have
rolled from the cliffs of Mt. Robson. Another drop of
about 500 feet brings the river to the delta flat which
it has formed on entering Lake Kinney, which appears
to have been dammed by an ancient moraine. A little
below the outlet the much smaller east branch of the
river comes in from a wild and desolate canyon.

The west and south sides of Mt. Robson are almost
free from glaciers or important snow fields because of
their excessive steepness, which is evident when one re-
members that within a mile or two there is a rise from
Lake Kinney of nearly or quite 10,000 feet. On the
opposite side, toward the northeast, the slope is less
rapid, and snowfields and hanging glaciers are formed,
which discharge by ice avalanches upon the main glacier
beneath. This makes a broad sheet of ice with moderate
slopes between Mt. Robson and the Lynx Mountains to
the northeast; and then bends off as a well defined
glacier toward the northwest, partly enclosing the Rear
Guard Mountain. It ends at about 5,700 feet on the
pass between Smoky and Grand Forks Rivers. Its front
is parted by a small hill of solid rock, and each side feeds
a torrent, the smaller one to the west, flowing into Berg
Lake, and the larger toward the northeast, splitting into
two streams, one entering Berg Lake and the other
Lake Adolph. The latter body of water forms the head

A. P. Cnh'INilll. Phdto

GLACIAL STREAM FROM N. SIDE OF MAIN GLACIER
Mt. Robson divides its waters between the Pacific and Arctic Oceana

Rri. a. B. Kiiinei/, Photo

SHOWS FOREFOOT OF ROBSON GLACIER

Sending its waters northward to Lake Adolphvis and Southward to Berg Lake.

The Great Divide lies between.

Geology and Glacial Features of Mt. Rohson. Ill

of Smoky River, a tributary of Peace River; so that the
main glacier sends its drainage partly into Eraser River
and the Pacific; and partly into Peace River which joins
the Mackenzie and reaches the Arctic Ocean. This is
probably a unique instance of a glacier and its effluent
river dividing their waters between two oceans 1,300
miles apart.

The two small lakes at the ends of the Smoky-Grand
Forks Pass appear to be dammed by old moraines, form-
ed probably toward the close of the last Ice Age, when
the glaciers of Mt. Robson, probably joined by ice from
the lower range to the northwest, still filled
the valley. Two other glaciers reach the level of this
valley. The Blue Glacier comes steeply down from the
Helmet to Berg Lake, where it sets free small icebergs ;
and another glacier, not yet named, comes down from
the same quarter just to the southwest of Berg Lake, and
shows a broad stratified front of ice a little above the
valley. All of these glaciers seem now to be in retreat,
though not at a very rapid rate, and old moraines occur
at several stages beyond the present ice front.

The hill of rock dividing the end of the main glacier
protects a grove of ancient spruce and balsam, some of
the trees being more than a foot in diameter. Their
growth is very slow at the elevation (about 5,700 ft.), and
one tree seven inches thick cut several feet above the
ground, showed 240 annual rings. It must have been
250 years old, and its larger neighbors are probably 400
years old. Ice cannot have invaded this sheltered spot
for at least that length of time.

In order to determine the retreat or advance of the
ice in the future some measurements were made from the
present ice front on the 1st September 1908. The direc-
tions given below are magnetic, the variation being 28
degrees to the east.

112 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Line run west from the centre of the present ice

front south of the grove.

yards

Muddy morainic material recently freed from ice 12

Last moraine (without plant growth) begins .... 68

Last moraine (without plant growth) ends 80

Crest of next moraine (a few small willow

bushes) 127

End of next moraine 170

Crest third moraine (willow with 13 annual

rings) 187

Crest of fourth moraine (spruce 250 years old) 296

End of fourth moraine 311

From the end of the line, at 311 yards, the largest
boulder on the inner edge of the oldest moraine is distant
61 yards in the direction N 20" E (magnetic). This
boulder is of brownish cherty limestone and rises eight
feet above the general level of this part of the moraine.
It should be easily recognized by later parties.

Beyond the oldest moraine there is a gravel flat to
the west more or less covered with spruces, some hav-
ing a diameter of one foot, and a probable age of 400
years. More than 400 years ago, after a long period of
retreat from the outlets of the two lakes in the valley,
a distance of a mile and a half to the northeast and of
two miles to the southwest, respectively, the ice halted
for some time at the oldest (4th) moraine. Within quite
recent years it has again retreated setting free the three
later moraines.

Another line was run from the mouth of the largest
glacial stream, on the north side of the end of the glacier.
The river pours from an ice cave as a water-fall tumbl-
ing for 37 yards over a steep slope of limestone. At
229 yards from the mouth of the cave on the left side of
the river in the direction 290' (or 20° north of west) there
is a prominent block of limestone about 14 feet square
and 5 feet thick resting upon an old moraine.

A. P. Coleman, Photo

HANGING GLACIERS WITH BLOCKS BREAKING OFF
N.E. Side of Mt. Robson

A. P. Coleman, Plioto

ICE AVALANCHES ON UPPER EDGE OF MAIN GLACIER
N.E. Side of IMt. Robson

Geology and Glacial Features of Mt. Robson. 113

The main glacier with its tributary hanging glaciers
covers most of the northeast side of Mt, Robson, pre-
senting a very striking contrast with the bare cliffs of
the opposite side, due mainly to the gentler slope north-
eastwards, permitting snowfields to accumulate. The
large size of the glacier, when compared with its rela-
tively small gathering ground, is due to the very heavy
precipitation on Mt. Robson, which rises suddenly for
10,000 feet near the southwestern edge of the Rockies
facing a region with much lower mountains. The west-
ern air currents coming from the Pacific are forced up-
ward for several thousand feet. This causes the rapid
precipitation of the moisture, giving rise to almost daily
falls of snow on the summit, especially on the side to-
wards the main glacier. In summer the snowfall at high-
er levels is represented by showers of rain in the valleys,
and there is a very rank growth in the Grand Forks
Valley south of the mountain. To the north the valley
is nearly 3,000 feet higher and has a much cooler climate,
so that vegetation is much less luxuriant.

114 Canadian Alpine Journal.

AN ADVENTURE WITH AN ERUPTION OF

MONT PELfiE.

Being the Substance of a Talk Over the Camp Fire at
Lake O'Hara, August, 1909.

By Tempest Anderson.

It will be in the remembrance of every one present
that in May, 1902, severe volcanic eruptions took place
in St. Vincent and Martinique, both of v^hich islands
form part of the chain of the lesser Antilles in the West
Indies. The Royal Society appointed a committee to
investigate the eruptions, by whom I had the honour of
being nominated along with Dr. J. S. Flett, Petrologist to
to the Geological Survey, to proceed to the scene of the
eruptions and report to them.*

After visiting St. Vincent, which was the main
object of our investigations, we proceeded to Martinique.
On arrival at Fort de France we found that the devastat-
ed area to the north of the island was still almost en-
tirely unoccupied. The greater part of the inhabitants
of St. Pierre and the neighborhood had been killed by
the eruption, and the few survivors were only returning
by slow degrees. It was, therefore, impracticable to
make our base of operations on land near the scene of
the eruption. Fort de France was too far away to be
available, except at a ruinous expenditure of time and
money in going to and fro. It was, therefore, determined

* Anderson, Tempest, and Flett, John S.— Report on the Eruptions of
the Souf Herein St. Vincent, in 1902, and on a \dsit to Montagne Pel^e
in Martinque— Part 1. Phil. Trans. A Vol. 200, 1903, pp. 353-553.
Part II. Phil. Trans. A Vol. 208,-1908, pp. 275.-332. See also
Geographical Journal. March, 1903.

'■^

r Tempest Anderson, Photo ^^ piERRE, JULY 8th. 1902

Tempest Anderson, Photo

THE BANK, ST. PIERRE, JULY 8th. 1902

An Adventure with an Eruption of Mont Pelce. 115

to engage a sloop, provision it, and live on board, mov-
ing by day to any point where landing was desirable,
and returning at night to some safe anchorage within
reasonable distance. We devoted our first day to an ex-
amination of the ruins of St. Pierre, and in the evening
we moved about two miles south along the coast and
spent the night at anchor off Carbet, just at the limit of
the area of devastation, at a spot commanding a full
view of the mountain. Next morning we returned to
St. Pierre, and moored the sloop to one of the buoys at
the north end of the town. Dr. Flett landed and further
examined the ruins, while I remained on board and took
photographs of the magnificent cauliflower masses of
dust and steam which were frequently ejected from the
great triangular fissure which opens from the crater.
Later in the afternoon we sailed further north along the
coast, still taking photographs of Mont Pelee, which was
clearer that day than we ever saw it before or after, and
showed to great perfection the deeply eroded valleys
with which its slopes are scored. They much resemble
those in corresponding position on the slopes of the
Soufriere in St. Vincent and appear to be formed in the
same way in strata of similar composition, viz., fragra-
mentary ejecta from the volcano which had consolidated
to form soft tuffs, and had subsequently been eroded
into their present forms by ordinary atmospheric
agencies.

We returned and sailed slowly south past the base of
the volcano, witnessing and photographing many small
explosions and their cauliflower clouds of dust, and thus
twice crossing the track of the eruption which took
place later. We anchored as before off Carbet, and
watched the sun set behind the clouds of ashes ejected
by the volcano. When approaching the horizon and thus
viewed, the sun appeared a sickly yellowish green, and
so pale that it could be looked at with the naked eye

116 Canadian Alpine Journal.

without discomfort. Later on, after sunset, the gorgeous
after-glow appeared, and the thin clouds in the western
sky were lit up with most brilliant red, beginning per-
haps 30° or 40" from the horizon, while the part below
still remained yellowish-green. Later still, as the sun
sank further below the horizon, the yellowish-green area
sank also, and only the reds remained, till they too sank
out of sight, and gave place to the light of a brilliant
three-day's-old moon. We had sat on deck absorbed in
watching this superb spectacle, and were just going to
begin supper, when one of us, looking towards Pelee,
said, "That cloud is different to the others. It's quite
black, and I'm sure it's coming this way." A few mo-
ments' examination confirmed this, and, the captain's
attention being called to it, we all, passengers and crew,
heaved up the anchor as quickly as possible, and set all
sail. The black cloud had meanwhile rolled down the
side of the mountain on to the sea, and came quickly
towards us. We had not moved a moment too soon.
The upper slopes of the mountain cleared somewhat and
some big red-hot stones were thrown out; then I saw
the triangular crack become red, and out of it poured a
surging mass of incandescent material, reminding me
of nothing so much as a big snow-avalanche in the Alps,
but at a vastly different temperature. It was perfectly
well defined, did not at all tend to rise like the previous
cauliflowers, but flowed rapidly down the valley in the side
of the mountain which had clearly been the track of previ-
ous eruptions, till in certainly less than two minutes it
reached the sea, and was there lost to view behind the
remains of the first black cloud, with which it appeared
to coalesce. There on the slopes of the mountain were
doubtlessly deposited the greater part of the incandescent
ash, while the steam and gases, with a certain portion
of still entangled stones and ash, came forward in our
direction as a black cloud, but with much greater rapidity

Tempest Anderson, Photo

MT. PELEE IN ERUPTION , JULY 9th, 1902

Tempest Anderson, Photo

MT. PELEE IN ERUPTION, JULY 9th. 1902

An Adventure with an Eruption of Mont Pelee. 117

than before. The sailors were now alarmed, nay, panic-
stricken, got out the oars and pulled for their lives.
Meanwhile the cloud came nearer and nearer; it was
well defined, black, and opaque, formed of surging
masses of the cauliflower type, each lobe rolling forward,
but not all with one uniform rotation; bright scintilla-
tions appeared, some in the cloud itself, and some like
little flashes of light vertically between the cloud and the
sea on which it rested. These were clearly the phen-
omena described by the survivors in the St. Vincent
eruption as "fire on the sea," occurring in the black
cloud which overwhelmed the windward side of that
island. We examined them carefully, and are quite clear
that they were electric discharges. The scintillations in
the body of the cloud became less numerous and more
defined, and gradually took the form of vivid flashes of
forked lightning darting from one part of the cloud to
another. The cloud rapidly gained on us. When it had
got within perhaps half a mile or a mile — for it is dif-
ficult to estimate distances at sea and in a bad light — we
could see small material falling out of it in sheets and
festoons into the sea, while the onward motion seemed
to be chiefly confined to the upper part, which then
came over our heads and spread out in advance and
around us, but left a layer of clear air in our immediate
neighborhood. It was ablaze all the time with electric
discharges.

As soon as it got overhead stones began to fall on
deck, some as big as a walnut, and we were relieved to
find that they had parted with their heat and were quite
cold. Then came small ashes and some little rain.
Eventually we gained the harbor of Fort de France un-
hurt, and anchored for the night. We slept on deck, and
in the morning I heard a boat. I put my head over the
bulwark. A voice exclaimed, "Anderson! is that you?"
I said, "Yes," and it continued, *T guess we have come

118 Canadian Alpine Journal.

out to seek your bodies." It was Jagger, now of Boston
"Tech," and who is now organizing the new observatory
on Kilawaii. We went on shore and told our adventures
to a number of scientific men and pressmen whom we
had left three days previously. One of the latter kept
aloof and said nothing. We found afterwards he had
immediately gone to the telegraph office and wired an
account to his paper in New York which appeared with
many embellishments as having happened to "Our Own
Representative."

The proposed ascent of Mont Pelee next day, for
which men had already been engaged, was abandoned.
The cloud was also noticed at Fort de France. It was
described as like those in the previous eruptions, but two
unbiassed observers, who had seen it and that of May,
declared this was the larger of the two.

Returning now to the mechanism of the hot blast
and the source of the power which propelled it, both my
colleague and I are convinced of the inadequacy of
previous explanations, such as electricity, vortices, or
explosions in passages pointing laterally and downwards,
or explosions confined and directed down by the weight
of the air above. Such passages into the mountain,
which, to be effective, would require to be caverns closed
above, and not mere open ravines, do not exist in the
case of the Soufriere, and we are not aware that they
have been observed in Mont Pelee ; and as to the weight
of the air, this did not prevent the explosions in the pipe
of the Soufriere from projecting sand and ashes right
through the whole thickness of the trade-winds till they
were caught by the anti-trade current above and carried
to Barbados, 100 miles to windward. Moreover, the
black cloud, as we saw it emerge from Mont Pelee, seem-
ed to balance itself at the top of the mountain, start slow-
ly to descend, and gather speed in its course, and^the
second incandescent discharge followed the same rule.

An Adventure zvith an Eruption of Mont Pelee. 119

We believe that the motive power for the descent was
gravity, as in the case of an ordinary avalanche.

The accepted mechanism of a volcanic eruption is
that a molten magma rises in the volcanic chimney. It
consists of fusible silicates and other more or less re-
fractory minerals, sometimes already partly crystalized,
and the whole highly charged with water and gases,
which are kept absorbed in the liquid, partly by the
immense pressure to which they are subjected. When
the mass rises nearer the surface and the pressure is
diminished, the water and gases expand into vapour and
blow a certain portion of the more or less solidified
materials to powder, or, short of this, form pumice stone,
which is really solified froth, and they are violently dis-
charged from the crater. When the greater part of the
steam and gases has been discharged, the lava, still
rising, finds a vent either over the lip of the crater, or
often through a lateral fissure, and flows quietly down
the side of the mountain.

It is quite recognized that these phenomena may
occur in various relative proportions. The explosive
phase may predominate, in which case only sand, pumice,
and fragmentary material are discharged, with perhaps
ejected blocks torn from the sides of the chimney, and
in this case an ordinary ash or cinder cone is built up.
On the other hand, the magma may contain little vapour,
and the lava may be discharged quietly and spread out
widely as a sheet over the surrounding country. The
Snake river basalts in Western North America are of this
class, and they cover an area larger than England and
France combined. It is supposed that the lava welled
out quietly through fissures. Such fissures I have seen
in Iceland, studded with a row of quite small craters
only. We believe that in these Pelean eruptions an in-
ter-immediate phase occurs. The lava which rises in the
chimney is charged with steam and gases, which explode

120 Canadian Alpine Journal.

as usual, but some of the explosions happen to have only
just sufficient force to blow the mass to atoms and lift
the greater part of it over the lip of the crater without
distributing the whole widely in the air. The mixture of
solid particles and incandescent gas behaves like a heavy
liquid, and before these particles have time to subside
the whole rolls down the side of the mountain under the
influence of gravity, and consequently gathers speed and
momentum as it goes. The heavy solid particles are
gradually deposited, and the remaining steam and gases,
thus relieved of their burden, are free to ascend, as was
the case with the black cloud which rose over our heads
on July 9.

We had concluded, from our examination of the
Soufriere, that som^ething of this sort must occur, but
the explanation was obvious when we saw the eruption
of Mont Pelee.

A. (K Wheeler, I'l ■:!■.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 1
From View Point 79.3 Feet South of Rock No. 1

1909

.4. O. Wheeler, Photo

ILLUSTRATION NO. 2

From Rock No. 2

1909

Motion of the Yoho Glacier. 121

MOTION OF THE YOHO GLACIER.

By Arthur O. Wheeler.

In July and August of 1909 it was the good fortune
of the Alpine Club of Canada to entertain as its guests a
number of members of the Alpine Club, London, and of
the Scottish Mountaineering Club. They came out in
advance of the British Association Meeting, held at
Winnipeg during the latter part of August, in order to
be present at the Canadian Club's fourth annual camp at
Lake O'Hara.

On August 9th, at the close of the camp, those of
the party whose engagements permitted were taken on
a special six-day expedition around the Yoho Valley.
The route lay high up along the sides of the mountains
enclosing it, by way of Sherbrooke Lake, Niles Pass and
the Daly Icefield to the Yoho Glacier; thence by the
customary pony trails to the Upper Yoho Valley and
home by the Yoho Pass and Emerald Lake.

The third day out camp was pitched beside the
pony trail, about a quarter of a mile west of the Yoho
Glacier. The three preceding days had been very strenu-
ous ones, so on the fourth, a short move was made to
the little lake in Waterfall Valley, not far below the
Twin Falls. Advantage was taken of this short move to
make the annual observations for motion of the Yoho
Glacier.

On August 12th, a glorious summer day, a party
equipped with the necessary instruments cut its way up
the foot of the icefall and without difficulty found all of
the six plates set in line across the forefoot on the 1st
of July of the previous year.

To Obtain Rates of Flow.
The base line A-B* on the east side of the valley
was visited and angular readings taken from each end

* See map of ice forefoot in 1908 issue of the Canadian Alpine
Journal (Vol. 1, No. 2, opp. page 274.)

122

Canadian Alpine Journal.

on the plates in the position in which they had been
found. The following table gives the results for the
several years since observations were inaugurated by the
Club.

Tai>/e Showing the Motion of Plates set on the
Yoko Glacier.

Plate

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

No. 5 I No. 6

Movement between July isth, 1906, and July ijth, jgoj

Total
Motion

29 ft.

74 ft.

89 ft.

124 ft.

134 ft.

Yearly
Motion

29 ft.

74 ft.

89 ft.

124 ft.

134 ft.

Daily
Motion

0.95 in.

2.43 in.

2.93 in.

4.08 in.

4.41 in.

124 ft.
124 ft.
4.08 in.

Total
Motion

Yearly
Motion

Daily
Motion

Movement between July lyth, 190^, and July ist, igoS

20 ft. 43 ft. 112 ft. 115 ft. 127 ft.
1

21 ft. 45 ft. 117 ft. 120 ft. 133 ft.
0.69 in. 1.48 in. 3.85 in. 3 95 in. 4.37 in.

Movement between July ist, 1908, and August 12th, igog

127 ft.
133 ft.
4.37 in.

Total
Motion

25 ft.

67 ft.

100 ft.

147 ft.

161 ft.

157 ft.

Yearly
Motion

22 ft.

60 ft.

90 ft.

131 ft.

144 ft.

141 ft.

Daily

Motion

0.72 in.

1.97 in.

2.96 in.

4.31 in.

4.74 in.

4.62 in.

1906-1907, Average daily motion — 3.15 inches
1907-1908, Average daily motion — 3.12 inches.
1908-1909, Average daily motion — 3.23 inches.

Motion of the Yoho Glacier. 123

Comparing the three sets of observations for sur-
face movement of the ice, each for a period of 365 days,
we have a greater motion in 1909 for every plate except
No. 3. In 1907 this plate was found in a shallow crevasse,
but in 1909 the motion almost exactly agrees with that
then observed; while in 1908 it was considerably great-
er. This portion of the ice has always been found much
broken and crevassed, and on that account the flow may
be erratic.

For plates Nos. 1 and 2 the movement observed in
1909 is greater than that in 1908 and less than that in
1907.

For plates 4, 5 and 6 the observed movement in
1909 exceeds that of the previous observations.

Speaking for the whole series there seems to have
been a general increase of surface motion over previous
years. It is worthy of note as there can be little doubt
that the entire volume of the ice has very considerably
decreased. This may be readily seen by comparing the
illustrations here given with those obtained from the
same view-points in the years 1907 and 1908. (See Can-
adian Alpine Journal Vol. I, Nos. 1 and 2, also Vol. II.,
No. 1.)

For Advance or Retreat.

The usual measurements were made from Rocks
Nos. 1 and 2, and from Sherzer Rock to the nearest ice.
The results are here tabulated, together with those for
preceding years.

124

Canadian Alpine Journal.

Table Showino Measurements to Nearest Ice.

Year

Prom Rock. No. 1
Ivcft side of Stream

From Rock No. 2
L,eft side of Stream

From Sberzer Rock
Right side of Stream

1904 . . .

79.4 ft.

190ti . . .

27.5 ft.

36.6 ft.

79.6 ft.

1907 .. .

35.8 ft.

43.8 ft.

123.0 ft.

1908 . . .

72.3 ft.

104.4 ft.

138.5 ft.

1909 ■ . .

104.2 ft.

139.0 ft.

189.3 ft.

Distance from Rock No. 1 to Rock No. 2=53 ft.

1906-1907, Average retreat of ice forefoot — 19.6 ft.
1907-1908, Average retreat of ice forefoot— 37.5 ft.
1908-1909, Average retreat of ice forefoot— 39.0 ft.

Taking a mean of the measurements on both sides
of the stream issuing from the ice forefoot the recession
for the past tw^o years has been about the same, although
the relative measurements vary considerably owing to
irregular changes in the formation, due to the breaking
ofif of great blocks at the extreme points.

Annual Change In Formation of Ice Forefoot.

A study of the photographs taken from view-point
79.3 ft. south of Rock No. 1, from Rock No. 2 and from
view-point Gyi ft. nearer the ice than the Vaux marks
of 1902, show clearly the change in forefoot and the gen-
eral shrinkage of the ice.

The greatest change in form seems to have been on
the right side of the stream, where a large chunk has
broken oiT and melted away. This is clearly seen by
comparison of illustration No. 3.

The most remarkable feature of the shrinkage is
seen in Illustration No. 2. By comparing this with the

/--t

a_y

y-*>'.^^v-'^

« J- ,

.f<

.4. O. Wheeler, Photo

ILLUSTRATION NO. 3
From View Point 6j Feet Nearer Ice than Vaux Marks of 1902.

1909

.1 U. niudtr, Phul.j

ILLUSTRATION NO. 4
From Station D
For position see map of Ice Forefoot, Vol. I., No. 2, page 274

Motion of the Yoho Glacier. 125

:orresponding views presented in previous issues of the
Journal the greater height of cliflrs created by the de-
crease of thickness in the ice is very marked ; also the
uncovering of the rock on the right side of the stream.
The latter is still more apparent in Illustration No. 1.

The best idea of the general shrinkage can be obtain-
ed by comparing Illustration No. 4 with that shown op-
posite page 153 in the first issue of the Journal, Vol. I,
No. 1.

A special feature of the forefoot last summer was
seen in the magnificent ice-arch, spanning the full bed
of the stream from side to side. It is well shown in
Illustration No. 4.

The observations will be continued during the sum-
mer of 1910, and it is intended to establish a station on
the side of the Rocky spur of Mt. Gordon, seen in Illustra-
tion No. 4, for the purpose of gathering information with
regard to the position and changes of the neve line.

126 Canadian Alpine Journal.

OBSERVATIONS ON GLACIERS IN 1909.

By George Vaux, Jr.

The glacial observations and measurements which
we have conducted for so many years, were carried on
jointly by my brother, the late William S. Vaux, Jr., and
myself. It was his enthusiasm and love of nature which
caused us first to enter upon them ; he it was who had
given most of the thought and study to the subject, who
had done the larger part of the instrumental work, and
all of the final reductions of the observations, in order
to secure results.

Hence it is that the writer finds himself at consider-
able disadvantage in continuing the observations and the
reports upon them.

In the summer of 1908 none of us visited the region
so that we have nothing original to report for that season.

Illecillewaet Glacier.

The winters of 1907-1908 and 1908-1909 do not ap-
pear to have differed materially from the average. The
aggregate snow-fall at Glacier Station, according to the
records kept there, was 37 feet 11 inches during the
former winter, and 35 feet 1^ inches during the latter.
It was not surprising, therefore, to note that the con-
ditions of shrinking and recession heretofore noted on
the Illecillewaet Glacier have not materially changed.
The snout of the glacier has altered visibly, the ice arch
being almost entirely absent in the summer of 1909, and
the extreme tongue possibly somewhat closer to the
left bank.

Observations on Glaciers in ipo^. 127

According to our measurements on August 12th,
1907, the distance from our marked rock "C" to the ice
was 315 feet 10 inches. This distance had increased to
366 feet upon August 21st, 1909, being almost exactly
50 feet for the elapsed two years.

Upon September 26th, 1908, Mr. A. O. Wheeler,
A.C.C., found this interval to be 355 feet, which indicates
that the recession was about the same each year, when
we take into consideration the lateness in the season
of Mr. Wheeler's measurement.

A number of the iron plates set out in former years
to measure the rate of flow were found deposited on
the bed moraine near the edges of the ice. Some of
them had undoubtedly been disturbed by tourists. But
one plate was found on the ice, No. 4 of the 1906 series.

In conjunction with Mr. A. O. Wheeler, A.C.C.,
upon September 11th, 1909, a new set of plates, eight in
all, was laid out. Their character was somewhat dif-
ferent from the ones heretofore employed. They were
of ys inch iron, 8 inches square and with opposite corners
turned over so as to make triangular points to catch in
the ice. They were not painted and were roughly mark-
ed with a cold chisel 'VAVX IX" meaning "Vaux, 1909,"
and in addition the number of the particular plates. I
was indebted for them to Mr. Thomas Kilpatrick,
A.C.C., of Revelstoke, who kindly had them made in the
C.P.R. shops there.

The surface of the Glacier opposite the base line was
exceedingly rough at some points. The ice was worked
up into great gullies and furrows, which made it impos-
sible to see to the far side of the glacier from the base.
Accordingly these plates were laid out on a new line,
somewhat further up the tongue, where the physical
conditions were more favourable. The western end of
this line was a conical fir bush growing high up on the
left moraine and which any one on the spot can easily

128 Canadian Alpine Journal.

identify. Mr. Wheeler's j^enerous co-opeiation alone
made this work possible, and his measurements, as found
elewhere in the Journal, should be consulted.

Asulkan Glacier.

This glacier was visited August 20th, 1909. It
showed very great activity. Whilst recession and
shrinkage appeared evident, yet there were marked in-
dications of a decided advance since August 15th, 1907,
much more than is usually to be expected by the change
from summer to winter. The marked rock which in
1907 was 54 feet 6 inches from the snout could not be
found at all, whilst a large rock in the left moraine, used
since 1899 as a fixed point from which to locate other
less stable rocks used in calculating the recession, seem-
ed to have been undermined and to have slipped down
into a small stream. The bed moraine in the vicinity
had but recently been evacuated by the ice.

As a point from which to measure future recession,
a large boulder of gray quartzite was selected. It meas-
ures about 6 feet by 4 feet and has peculiar fine parallel
dark bandings. It was marked with red paint with a
circle, and the words "Vaux 1909 8/20." The distance
to the extreme tongue was 62 feet.

Victoria Glacier.

The conditions at the Victoria Glacier seem to be
very similar to those heretofore noted. The main
stream now flows from what would appear upon super-
ficial examination to be the left side of the glacier. It is
the true tongue, however, as shown by Prof. Sherzer.
The ice cliffs in this vicinity are wasting away with
considerable rapidity.

Upon August 8th, 1907, the distance from the mark-
ed double rock to the nearest ice was 126 feet. The re-

Observations on Glaciers in ipop. 129

cession as measured August 2nd, 1909 was 25 feet 6
inches.

Wenkchemna Glacier.

We have established no definite points for measure-
ments at this glacier. Comparing its face upon August
30th, 1909, with photographs taken on several different
former occasions, the changes appear insignificant.
Large boulders are still pushed forward and occasionally
roll into the growing forest, knocking down trees in
their course.

130

Canadian Alpine Journal.

LIXE OF PLATES SET OX ILLECILLEWAET
GLACIER NEAR FOREFOOT ON SEPTEM-
BER 11th, 1909.

Lens^th of base=231 ft. 3 in., measured on richt
lateral moraine. Rocks at each end of the base marked
with red paint.

Plates were set in line between southeast end of
the base and a conical fir bush growing high up above
the left lateral moraine. Plates were numbered from
1 to 8, commencing with plate nearest the base.

Angles Read at S.E. End of Base.

Object Sighted on

N. W. end of Base
Top of Conical Bush

Angles
S. E. End of Base
Plate No. 1
Plate No. 2
Plate No. 3
Plate No. 4
Plate No. 5
Plate No. 6
Plate No. 7
Plate No. 8
Top of Conical Bush

Transit Readings

360' 00-
278° 52-

Read at N.
360o 00'
65° 59'
75° 25'
82o 17'
85° 19'
87o Oi'
87° 58'
89° 27'
90° 38'
93° 09'

ISOo 00-
9So 52-

Interior Angle

Angle between Base
and line of Plates.

=81° 08-

W. End of Base

Angles between Base
and Plates

No. 1=65° 59'

180° 00'
245o 59'
255° 25'
262° 17'
265° 19'
267o 04'
267o 58'
269o 27'
270o 38'
273o 09'

No. 2=75° 25'
No. 3=S2o 17'
No. 4=85o 19'
No. 5=87° 04'
No. 6=87° 58'
No. 7=89° 27'
No. 8=90° 33'
Top of Bush=93 09'

Julia IV. Henshaw, Photo

THE ARBUTUS (Arbutus Menziesii)

The Arbutus. 131

BOTANICAL NOTES

THE ARBUTUS.
(Arbutus Menziesii.)

By Julia W. Henshaw.

This beautiful tree, which belongs to the Heath
Family, (Ericaceae) and forms one of the chief ornaments
of the hillsides close to the Pacific Ocean is commonly
called the Arbutus by British Columbians though occas-
ionally one hears the romantic Spanish name Madrofio
(pronounced Ma-dron-yo) applied to it in Canada, as is
generally done in California.

The Arbutus is found along the Western Coast, and
also on Vancouver Island, sometimes growing straight
and tall where the conifers shelter it from unfriendly
storms ; and sometimes bent and twisted, clinging to life
in some cranny among the rocks, finding foothold on
the edge of a precipice, or bordering a trail slashed
through the sumptuous forest. Often I have found it
growing only a few feet high, massed together in shrubby
form ; and again I have seen it towering a sixty-five feet
up into the air, with a trunk five feet in circumference,
spreading forth stalwart branches that in June bear great
big panicles of white waxen bells, to be replaced when
autumn comes with clusters of reddish-orange drupace-
ous berries.

The Arbutus is an evergreen, its bark is close and
smooth by exfoliation, becoming rough near the base,
and in midsummer thin layers of a rich Sienna hue begin

132 Canadian Alpine Journal.

to peal off stem and branch disclosing a greenish-yellow
surface, like satin to the touch. The leaves are thick,
oblong, alternate, petioled, entire or serrulate, and are
from four to five inches long; they are a glorious
polished green and are sometimes delicately veined with
red above, being pale and finely reticulated below. The
wood of the Arbutus is very hard, shading from brown-
ish to reddish-yellow; it is used to inlay furniture, and is
much prized in the preparation of charcoal to be employ-
ed in the making of gunpowder. Those who have seen the
Arbutus in British Columbia have no doubt been struck
by the resemblance to its diminutive replica the Bear-
berry (Arctostaphylos Urva-ursi) which carpets the
ground in many western localities and is its next of kin
in the Heath family.

It is a most remarkable fact that neither in Britton
and Brown's ''Flora of the Northern States and Canada,"
in Coulter's "Rocky Mountain Botany," nor in Hough's
"Trees of the Northern States and Canada" is there any
mention of the Arbutus Menziesii.

Truly the British Columbian Arbutus is a patrician
among trees, and inevitably calls to mind Bret Harte's
exquisite lines, penned to the Madrono of California :

"Captain of the western wood,
Thou that apest Robin Hood !
Green above thy scarlet hose,
How thy velvet mantle shows ;
Never tree like thee arrayed,
O thou gallant of the glade!

"When the yellow autumn sun
Saddens all it looks upon,
Spreads its sackcloth on the hills,
Strews its ashes in the rills,

The Arbutus. ^^^

Thou thy scarlet hose dost doff,
And in limbs of purest buff
Challengest the sombre glade
For a sylvan masquerade.

"Where, oh where, shall he begin
Who would paint thee, Harlequin.^
With thy waxen burnished leaf,
With thy branches' red relief.
With thy poly-tinted fruit,
In thy spring or autumn suit,
Where begin, and oh, where end,
Thou whose charms all art transcend?"

134 Camuiian Alpine Journal.

MISCELLANEOUS SECTION

♦ «

A FORTNIGHT WITH THE CANADIAN
ALPINE CLUB.

By Godfrey A. Solly.

The annual camp of 1909 will perhaps be remember-
ed in the future for two main reasons. First, because of
the glorious weather, and secondly, that it was the first
occasion on which a party of climbers from the British
Isles had been able to come out in response to an invita-
tion sent to the Alpine Club of England. Writing as
one of the British party, and on behalf of all, I wish
to say at the outset of this paper that we feel that no
words of ours can adequately express our gratitude for
the unbounded kindness and generosity of our reception.

It was not only that Mr. and Mrs. Wheeler and the
Vice-Presidents and Officers of the Club did so much for
us, but we were made to feel that in every member of
the Club we had a friend who was doing his or her best
to give us a good time. Staying for a few days amongst
so many strange faces, it was impossible to become
acquainted with all, and one cannot even put the right
names to all the faces that remain with us in our
memories or on photographic prints, but to one and all
we tender our most hearty thanks.

We have been present in the early school days of
the Club — a child of great vigour and rapidly increasing
stature, and there need be no doubt that it will do
honour to its parentage. May it carry on faithfully the

A Fortnight zvifh the Canadian Alpine Club. 185

great traditions that surround the Alpine Clubs of
Europe, in its turn perhaps developing new features and
expanding our knowledge of mountain craft ; but, above
all, may its members maintain the traditions of good fel-
lowship— may it always be remembered that mountain-
eering is a recreation — that we learn our mountain craft
and go to the hills for health and strength and pleasure —
that it is wrong to court danger, but that if danger comes,
no effort can be too great, no hardship too severe, if only
disaster can be warded off.

No more enduring friendships than those of the
mountains can be made. Twice I have spent a night out,
in danger high up on the cliffs of a great mountain. Each
time I knew that my companions were true men, who
would be loyal while life lasted, and I count them
amongst the most valued friends of my life. But I am
now a member of the Alpine Club of Canada. Anyone
who has been in camp with our President knows what
that means : his orders are absolute. My orders lie open
before me in a letter demanding a paper in connection
with our visit to the Canadian Rockies. I would rather
make my mark with an ice axe than a pen, but I have
no option.

We were received at the delightful Club House at
Banff on July 29th. We all took training walks on the
hills around and hoped we were getting inoculated
against future assaults by mosquitoes. The town
authorities thoughtfully offered us a free sulphur bath,
and the plunge into the hot water, though startling to
those who did not know the temperature, alleviated the
irritation temporarily. From the climbing point of view,
the great feature of the place is the short cut to Banff
along the pipe track. That walk for a quarter of a mile
along a single plank about ten feet from the ground, was
one of the most serious difficulties that I met with in
the district.

136 Canadian Alpine Journal.

On tlic 1st Auq^ust we all moved to the camp near
Lake O'Hara and remained there until the 9th August.
Others will describe the varied incidents of the camp
life, so I will only give a short account of a climb on
Mount Odaray, which has not hitherto been described
in the Journal. On August 2nd, two parties, compris-
ing live of the British visitors and V. A. Fynn, had made
the ascent, and on the strength of their description, I
started next morning with O. Rohdc and A. C. Har-
greaves. We followed at first the track towards Lake
McArthur, seeing on the way a large porcupine, as it
laboriously climbed a tree. Near the first little pool we
turned to the right, i.e., westwaids, and ascended the
lower slopes of the mountain until we came to the edge
of the glacier where we roped. From this point we
circled round the lower peak of the ridge, avoiding some
wide crevasses and ice clififs and ascending gradually
until we were under the lowest point of the ridge between
the low east peak and the highest point. From here we
climbed without difficulty by steep ice and rocks to the
ridge, which is followed to the summit.

Presently we came to a depression in the ridge and
opposite to us was a steep rock face with a very pro-
nounced chimney holding a jammed stone. Hastings
had told me the night before of a chimney with a jammed
stone, as being the most difficult bit on the mountain, so
we at once concluded that this must be the place and
did not look for any way of avoiding it. We climbed it,
the principal difficulty being to avoid sending down
loose stones on those below, and thought our difficulties
were over. Continuing along the ridge, to our surprise
we came before long to another chimney, also with a
jammed stone in it. We did look for a way of avoid-
ing this chimney, but finding none had to climb it. It
was perhaps less difficult than the lower one, but the
stones were even more loose. From that point we soon

B. 6' Darling. Photo

MT. ODARAY FROM THE CAMP

THE PRESIDENT AND VICE PRESIDENT
From Upper Yoho Valley

A Fortnight with the Canadian Alpine Club. 137

reached the summit — Hargreaves had ascended Mt.
Huber on the previous day, but for Rohde and myself
it was the first Canadian peak. I had often heard, but
never before realized, the special feature of the view
from a peak in the centre of the Canadian Rockies — that
is, the enormous number of peaks in sight. In every
direction, North and South, East and West, we saw
glacier-clothed peaks in countless numbers, shining in
the sun. Nothing that I know in the Alps resembles it;
peaks may be more lofty there, and perhaps grander in
outline, but there is not the same suggestion of boundless
space. After staying for about an hour on the summit,
eating luncheon and enjoying the view, we began the
descent. The two chimneys were troublesome, particu-
larly the lower one where the holds are not very good
for the last man to depend on, but there was no other
difficulty, and we soon reached camp. We then asked
Hastings and the others about the two chimneys and
were told that the lower one could be avoided by going
a very short distance to the left, and that on the previous
day one of the parties had descended by this easier route,
and that both parties had ascended by it. However, we
were not sorry that we had misunderstood their descrip-
tion, as it gave us the best bit of climbing on the
mountain, and the descent in particular was very inter-
esting. If the mountain is often climbed, the probability
is that many of the loose stones will be cleared away,
and it will become easy and safe, but the decision not
to use it as a qualifying climb in 1909 was undoubtedly
wise. It is no place for a number of parties to be on at
the same time, and an inexperienced climber would hard-
ly be able to avoid sending down loose stones, to the
danger of those below.

I must pass over the glorious two days' trip to
Paradise Valley and back, which was made by many
of the British party, including three of the ladies. As

138 Canaiiian Alpine Journal

taken in the reverse direction, it has been well described
in the Journal for 1908.

I will only refer to the Eagle's Eyrie. Whilst a
Vice-President and some of our party were sleeping in
the sun. I had a look at it. There is a crack on the
southerly side that looks as if it would go, but when one
gets up a little, the holds seem all in the wrong places,
and the rock pushes one out. Then perhaps the thought
will come to a climber that he is not in very good train-
ing just now, and that it would be better to try some
other day. Finally he will get down, which is the only
sensible thing to do. The game is not worth the candle.

The Yoho Trip.

But the most attractive feature of the entertainment
provided for the British party was the trip in the Yoho
Valley. Amery, Hastings and Mumm had left the an-
nual camp on the Friday to go to Mt. Robson, but the
rest of the climbing members of the party, reinforced
by A. M. Bartleet, were invited to spend the next six
days in the Yoho Valley, changing camp each day. A
party of thirty-two was formed headed by our President,
and including most of the British visitors and three of
the guides. The United States were represented by Miss
Vaux, whose cheerfulness in putting up with the little
inconveniences of camp life and readiness to give a hand
whenever needed, charmed all, and contributed much to
the pleasure of the trip.

On the first day after descending from Lake O'PIara,
and lunching at the depot camp near Hector Station, we
rounded Paget Peak and, having passed Sherbrooke
Lake, camped in the woods at the furthest point that the
ponies with their heavy loads could reach. Next day
everything had to be carried over the pass west of Mont
Niles, and across the Daly Glacier to a high camp on the
rocky slopes nearly due north of the snout of the glacier

A Fortnight zvith the Canadian Alpine Club. 189

— a photograph by Mr. Harmon shows twenty-seven of
the party on the ice with their loads. The remaining
five were the photographer himself, the Rev. J. R. Robert-
son, Bartleet, Hargreaves and myself. We four left the
others at the pass and traversing on the snow slopes
under Mt. Niles reached the rocks on the south-westerly
side of Mt. Daly. Here we were caught in a violent
thunderstorm. The lightning seemed very near and our
axes were all hissing, so we left them for a time in the
snow and waited on the rocks until the fury of the
storm had passed. Then picking them up, we mounted
the rocks, which are easy, and, walking over the summit
plateau of snow and shattered rocks, soon reached the
highest point. We had no very distant view, but the
cloud effects as the storm was passing away were very
grand. On the descent we varied our route down the
rocks which can be climbed almost, but not quite, every-
where, and then picking up our loads, which had been
left below, made the best of our way to the camping
place. The mountain is a very easy one, but on the snow
slopes under Mt. Niles there are some crevasses and the
rope should always be used. At camp, we had a mixed
reception. Robertson had been complaining of the
weight of his load, which he thought contained only
bacon, but some friend had also put in it all the tea, so
the rest of the party had had nothing to drink except wa-
ter— hot or cold — until our return. Some actually com-
plained of our thoughtlessness in going away with the
tea, when we would have given them not only the tea, but
the bacon and all our loads if they would have taken
them. Others more practical at once made tea, which
was acceptable to all, for it was cold and wet and the
camping place exposed.

On the next day a party of about fourteen, includ-
ing the three British ladies, made a successful ascent
of Mt. Balfour, but again we had no distant view from

1 10 Canadian Alpine Journal.

the summit. There was a high wind and drifting snow.
Tn the meantime the rest of the parly had moved camp
to a beautiful spot near the foot of the Wapta Glacier.
Here the ponies met us again. On the next day the
President took some measurements of the ice movement
of the Wapta Glacier while the camp was moved a short
march to a point in the Waterfall Valley. On the next
day sixteen of the party, including only three of the
visitors, Bartleet, Rohde and E. F. Pilkington, had a very
long day over Mounts Habel and McArthur while most
of the others walked to the top of Kiwetinock Pass, and
had a view westward over mountains, which few ex-
cept the President have visited. On the following day a
large party of four ropes, including three ladies, had a
long day on Mts. President and Vice-President, to the
next camp which was at Yoho (Summit) Lake. Most
of the climbing was easy but there is some good
scrambling on the northern ridge of President, access
to which is gained by one of several steep chimneys.
The final descent from the foot of the glacier through the
forest to the lake was hot and tiring. There may be a
path but our leaders did not hit it off. The next day
all went down to Field. Oliver Wheeler and one or two
energetic young men took Mt. Burgess on the way, but
most strolled down the path to Emerald Lake, where
after a civilized luncheon at the hotel, carriages came
and we were driven down to Field. The whole party
reunited at the hotel and enjoyed a farewell supper to-
gether, rather to the astonishment of the other guests.
Toasts were drunk and speeches made and episodes of
the trail recalled, till we were told that it was 10.30 p.m.
and that our places were wanted for travellers just arriv-
ing off No. 96, due twelve hours earlier.

So ended a glorious week, and we separated, some
going off that night, others next day or the day after,
but we hope to meet again in other years. Whether

A Fortnight with the Canadian Alpine Club. 141

that may be possible or not we know that we are richer
by the memory of a week where all went right and
nothing went wrong. East knows West and West knows
East a little better than before, and we trust that the
friendships begun among the mountains in search of
recreation only may be a tiny link in the chain that binds
together one great Empire.

I was asked to write a paper on the mountaineering
done by the British visitors, but I cannot write of what
I do not know. Others must tell how Amery, Hastings
and Mumm travelled to Mt. Robson and were only
beaten on it by the bad weather; and of how Fynn led
Pilkington up Mt. Ringrose and Bartleet up the N. W.
arete of Mt. Sir Donald. On the morning after the sup-
per, I started at about 4.30 a.m. with the Rev. A. M.
Gordon and Bartleet and Pilkington to try Mt. Cathed-
ral. We did not then know of the two climbs described
in Outram's book, and the only advice we could get was
to walk along the line eastwards until we had gone
through the tunnel and then turn up towards the mount-
ain. This we did and found ourselves on fatiguing scree
slopes which continued almost without intermission over
the small glacier to the pass between Mts. Cathedral
and Stephen. Long before we reached the pass we knew
that we were wrong, but there was no time to go back
and begin elsewhere, so we went to the other pass and
looked over to see if we could find any way of turning the
southerly end of the hopeless wall of rock that had
flanked us on the left for so long. We climbed a short
way up the ridge, but saw that to go on was useless.
We then decided to go down the other side of the pass
knowing that we should strike the O'Hara track and so
make a tour of Mt. Cathedral. The south side of the
pass is perfectly easy. The scenery is superb and the
precipices on the north-westerly face of Mt Odaray
are most imposing. There is, of course, no path down the

142 Canadian Alpine Journal.

valley, and we had the usual struggle through the
forest until we reached tlie track, l)Ut this did not spoil the
pleasure of an interesting day. When we got back to the
hotel, we heard that w^e ought to have gone further
along the track before turning off it, for the beginning of
the ascent, and that by so doing we should have reached
the f^lacier coming down from the N. W. of the mountain.

After this, I was obliged to go to the Chalet on Lake
Louise w^here I stayed for five days. Unfortunately I
had no male companion, the guides w^ere all engaged and
I could find no climber amongst the visitors, so the only
climb that I had there was the ascent of Mt. Niblock
with Mrs. Solly and Miss Maclay. Then I had to travel
east for England, home, and duty. My holiday was at
an end, but a dream of many years had been realized.
In 1893, I had hesitated whether to go east to the
Caucasus or west to the Rockies— but in those days the
journey east was the quicker and more certain of the
two and I chose the Caucasus. Now much is changed,
and on the tenth day from London one can be on a Can-
adian glacier, whilst the journey into the Caucasus is no
more easy than it was, and the uncertainty as to getting
out of the country is so great, that it is reported to be
not worth while for a traveller to take a return ticket.
My dream now must be of a second visit to Canada.
May it be far less than sixteen years before I see again
the mountains and meet the friends of 1909.

Tzvo Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. 143

TWO ENGLISHMEN IN THE YOHO VALLEY.

By E. F. M. MacCarthy and A. M. Bartleet.

"Great things are done when Men and Mountains meet;
These are not done by jostling in the street.''

Y rlnne hv iostlinp' in the St

— William Blake.

The domesticated dog still takes two or three turns
round to flatten the prairie grass before he curls himself
up upon your carpet; and the domesticated man still has
lurking in his being a remnant of the barbarism which
makes him revolt occasionally against the life of the city
and the crowded struggle of the streets, and which sends
him out to the waste places of the world w^here God's
air is at all events untainted, and where he may return
to the primitive way of living. The inherited impulse
is valueless to the dog, but it has made of man that noble
specimen of his race, the Climber.

It was this evolutionary instinct shared by two
otherwise dissimilar Englishmen— MacCarthy, a septua-
genarian, and Bartleet, young enough to pass for his son,
the one a schoolmaster, the other a barrister, which made
them jump at the invitation of Mr. Wheeler, the Presi-
dent of the Alpine Club of Canada, to join his party for
a week's camping out in the Rockies. So it was that,
singing to ourselves —

Fare ye well, stifT-laundered shirt-fronts,
Cuffs of starched and courtly whiteness.
Black dress-coats and silken stockings!

we found ourselves, on an early day in August, 1909,
being whirled away by iron-horses westward from Win-
nipeg (whither the British Association Meeting had
drawn us), across eight hundred miles of almost level

144 Canadian Alpine Journal.

prairie to the foot-hills of the Rockies, and then uj) and
up. for two hundred miles more, between sombre sentinel
pines and f^leamin;^- silvery waterways, through moun-
tain gorges and under steep cliffs epauletted with lumber-
roofed snow-tunnels, till we crawled up to the Great
Divide, and. a few miles further on, reached the water-
tank (glorified under the name of Hector Station) where
our puffing and panting horses stopped to quench their
thirst. Here we stepped out of the Hotel-upon-wheels in
which w-e had lived for the last 36 hours, and at noon,
Monday, August 9th, bade good-bye for a week to the
oidinary routine of civilized life as we made our way
through the trees, under the guidance of one of "the
Boys" (as the younger members of the A.C.C. are called)
who had been told ofif to meet us, and found ourselves
at the Club's base Camp hard by.

It had been arranged that we should there await
the arrival of Mr. Wheeler and his party who had been
camping out the previous week at Lake O'Hara. They
soon arrived in two's and three's, and we were greeted
by a few old English friends (who had received a similar
invitation to ourselves) and a larger number of those who
were soon to become new ones. We shared in an excel-
lent and cheery meal and then returned to the station to
change into mountaineering kit. Here the Vice-Presi-
dent, Mr. Patterson's description of the climbs planned
for the first two days decided the "Old Man" (as he was
irreverently styled by the Boys) not to attempt the Sher-
brooke Valley part of the trip, but to go down to Field,
wait for the return of the pack-horses and come up the
Yoho Valley with them on Wednesday, so as to join the
rest of the party at the Glacier at the head of the Valley.

Here follozus Bartlcefs narrative of his experiences : —

About 3.30 p.m. we started, a party of some thirty-
six persons, up to the Sherbrooke Valley — a comparative-
ly little known way of approach to the Eastern slopes of

Two Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. 145

the Yoho Valley — and Mr. Wheeler told me to run on
and catch up to the pack-horses (that had already start-
ed while I was changing at the station house), and
relieve myself of my rucksack. I may say at once that
I did not "run" very far, and was doubtful for a time if
I should ever catch the horses, this being my first exper-
ience of a forest trail which often seemed as conspicuous
by its absence as the underbrush did by its presence.
However, after half-an-hour or so I did overtake them
and then began thoroughly to enjoy myself.

Otto, the Club's Master of the Horse, was some way
ahead in front of the string of horses, but his Equerry,
Jimmy Simpson, riding last, proved a most entertaining
and instructive companion. His control over the animals
struck me as wonderful. When one of them went wrong
he rated it, either by its individual name or by names
(also used in England) of more general and forcible
application ; and the offender always returned promptly
to the trail. At one point, a horse got stuck near the top
of a steep and slippery pitch, and after many unsuccessful
efiforts to pull him up Jimmy said there was nothing for
it but push him down. The poor brute fell a consider-
able distance and landed with his pack beneath him and
legs in the air. He was soon righted, however, and then
got up the pitch safely; but we both agreed that it had
been odds he would break a leg in that fall.

About 7.30 we reached our first camping ground, a
mile or so above the beautiful Sherbrooke Lake; and
after an excellent supper the English guests passed a
most comfortable night in a well brushed-down tent.
Next morning, Tuesday the 10th August, we breakfasted
about 7 a.m. By 10 o'clock camp was struck and every-
thing packed, and we started in detachments on the walk
up the Sherbrooke Valley to the pass at its head, im-
mediately west of Mt. Niles. It was now that I realized
for the first time the full ext'^nt of the generosity of our

1-46 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Canadian hosts. This day and the following we were to
traverse a trailless country impossible for the pack-
horses, which were already making their way back to
the base camp at Hector and so on to Field; and our
hosts themselves carried on their back the whole camp
and accessories — tents, cooking apparatus, axes, and food
for nearly forty people — in fact, the whole outfit, besides
their own personal requisites and those of some of the
guests. The loads were simply staggering; not indeed
to the bodies of those who bore them, but to the feelings
and imaginations of the others; and the thought, not
only that this tremendous work was undertaken during
their short holiday, but that it caused our unselfish
friends to miss making the ascent of the mountains they
would have loved to climb, indeed touched the hearts
of all us English. Perhaps by way of expressing my own
gratitude to the President, Vice-Presidents and the Boys,
1 cannot say better than that I value the memory of the
week I spent with them more highly than any other of
my mountaineering experiences, albeit these reach back
to a time more than twenty years ago ; and I may add
that, had I missed those first two days, I should ever
after have felt much regret, save only for the fact that
in that case the loads would have been a little lighter.

Between mid-day and 1 p.m. the whole party were
sitting on top of the pass; and to my joy Mr. Solly kind-
ly asked if I would come with him and try Mt. Daly. Of
course I jumped at the suggestion, and under his leader-
ship, Mr. Robertson, Mr. Hargreaves and I, left the pass
behind us, skirted the rocks of the ridge running up from
it in an easterly direction, and crossed the snowfield at
the head of the Daly Glacier towards the rocks of the
final peak. On the most exposed part of the plateau, a
m.agnificent thunderstorm broke upon us, and we hurried
on to the rocks ahead where we should be less conspic-
uous objects and less likely to be struck by the lightning.

Two Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. 147

Here we sat for some time, our minds divided between
admiration of the storm and fear that it would cheat us
of our peak. Never have I seen anything grander nor
felt more deeply the awfulness of Nature. We were
fairly high up and the view was extensive. Sometimes
we seemed to be in the very heart of the storm, to be
part of it, so to speak ; then the lightning would flash far
away in the East, and then again would glorify the
Southern or Western horizon. Perhaps there were sev-
eral storms taking place at the same time. Apart from
the lightning, the efifects of light and shade were more
beautiful than any I have seen ; and there was a rainbow
towards the East that Turner himself would hardly have
dared to paint.

Well — the storm passed ; the rocks were easy and
the final snow slope short; and we stood on the sum-
mit of Mt. Daly at 4 p.m. The view gave us all intense
pleasure, and, for me, recalled my feelings when in
August, 1888, I stood on the top of my first snow moun-
tain— Piz Morteratsch in the Engadine. In each case I
was taking a bird's-eye view of an entirely new country
of which I had thought much beforehand — in perfect con-
tentment, satisfying what had become almost a craving;
and if in the former year my excitement was greater, I
think that now a more mature experience allowed the
pleasure to be deeper. If asked to compare the Swiss and
the Canadian scene, I might perhaps say that from Mt.
Daly, (and three days later from Mt. Habel) the range
of the Rockies seemed to stretch endlessly and without
a break in all directions, whereas from a Swiss summit
one nearly always sees or suspects a plain or a fertile
valley and so gets the suggestion of humanity and civil-
ization. Perhaps Mr. Whymper had this effect of end-
lessness in his mind when he wrote that the Rocky
Mountains are like "fifty Switzerlands rolled into one."

We made the descent without adventure or misad-

148 Canadian Alpine Journal.

venture in some three hours, reachinc^ camp No. 2 about
7.20 p.m. The expedition was deli,c:hiful ; and though
the mountain presented no special difficulty, the facts
that none of us had seen it before and that the succession
of thunderstorms rendered success very doubtful added
to the pleasure of achieving the summit. We found the
new camp pitched on an ideal spot— a grass plateau at
timber-line, near the right side of the ice-fall of the Daly
Glacier, commanding glorious views of the "Vice-Presi-
dent" and other mountains across the Yoho Valley — that
beautiful valley of which I had read so much and which
1 was now to visit under such good auspices. We had
been wet through and dried again by the sun several
times during the day, so it was not unpleasant to get
inside a tent just in time to escape a final downpour.

On Wednesday, the 11th, a party of twelve, includ-
ing the three English ladies, left camp at 9 a.m., intending
to climb Mt. Balfour. We traversed in a Northerly dir-
ection, well above timber-line, the higher slopes of the
Yoho Valley, and ascended a moraine at the top of which
we roped up in three parties of four. We then crossed
a snowfield, surmounted the bergschrund without much
difficulty, walked up the snow slope of the final peak, and
reached the summit at 1 p.m. As a contrast to yester-
day, clouds now robbed us of our view. We left the
summit at 1.30, and reached the top of the moraine,
where the sacks had been deposited, at 3 p.m. From
here we continued the traverse in a Northerly direction
of the upper slopes of the Yoho Valley to a point very
near its head, whence we started an extremely steep des-
cent to the glacier-stream below, forging our way
through very dense undergrowth. We soon saw the
smoke of Camp No. 3, rising through the trees across the
valley, and apparently within a stone's throw ; but as the
river seemed too deep to ford, we made a detour over
the snout of the glacier, which we crossed with the help

Val. A. Fynn. Photo ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^.^^^^ EXPEDITION

Val. A. F,jnn. Photo qj-^^^^-^ ^ ^.jeAL READY

Val. A. Fynn, Photu

CAMP IV, YOHO EXPEDITION

Two Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. 149

oi some well-cut steps, hit the trail on the other side and
reached the Camp at 7.15. This Camp again was most

beautifully situated, lying in a little clearing in the forest ;
and as I lay on the grass watching the scene round the
fire and my eyes half closed, I either fancied or dreamed
that I was about to witness the performance of some
ancient Druid rites. But the Arch Druid suddenly
changed into MacCarthy, who had just come up from
Field with the pack-horses ; and the only rites perform-
ed were shakings of the hand, and almost immediately,
the consumption of a first rate supper.

On Thursday, the 12th, being glad of an easy day, a
few of us followed Mr. Wheeler and his son, and watched
them making their annual measurements and observa-
tions of the Yoho Glacier. Its snout was found to have
receded at the rate of about 30 feet a year during the
last three years ; and Mr. Wheeler pointed out a line of
logs lying at a considerable distance from the present
position of the ice and indicating its limits years ago,
when an avalanche from the heights above must have
carried down the trees, which were only brought to rest
by impact against the Easterly side of the then more
extensive Glacier. In the afternoon we walked through
the forest to Camp No. 4 which had been pitched near a
beautiful lake a little below the Twin Falls. Although
my expectations had been pretty high they were more
than realized when I gazed with admiration on these
wonderful falls. Were they in Switzerland they would
make the fortune of half-a-dozen hotel companies. Pray
Heaven that this neighbourhood may never be so pro-
faned.

On Friday, the 13th, at about 6 a.m., a party of six-
teen set out to climb Mts. Habel and McArthur. A way
was found up the impregnable-looking cliiT over which
the falls hurled themselves on our left. The pace was
tremendous, and one was glad of a short breather after

150 Canadian Alf'inc Journal.

an hour or so of extremely steep and rapid walking. We

now looked down upon the falls and the view above

began to open out. The Glacier was soon reached, and

about 8.45 a halt was called on the snowfield above,

photographs were taken, and we roped up in four parties

of four. The snowfield was a long one and eventually

increased in steepness, and as I had anticipated, we fairly

raced over it. Indeed one felt grateful to the bergs-

chrund that caused a little delay after over an hour and

a half of going at high pressure. Skilfully led, we crossed

it without much difficulty, Mr. Harmon from the lower

lip taking photographs of us in transit. Another steep

though short pull, and we reached the little snow col at

the foot of Habel's final peak, where we unroped and left

the sacks; and then a walk of twenty minutes up the

snow (each at his own favourite pace) brought us to the

summit at 11.20 a.m. This was the view I had looked

forward to most eagerly since deciding to come out to

the Rockies and reading the books of the pioneers. My

expectations were again surpassed. Mt. Mummery was

close at hand; the Selkirks, amongst which I should soon

be, lay to the West, the peaks we had recently climbed

to the East, and to the North Mt. Forbes and that

boundless ocean of mountains which appeals so strongly

to the imagination. The weather was perfectly fine, and

that half-hour will never fade from memory.

Plenty of work was still before us, so we tore our-
selves away, lunched on the little snow col and about
12.30, started off in the direction of Mt. McArthur.
Those on the three first ropes took to the snow on the
w^est side of the southerly ridge of Mt. Habel; but
Konrad Kain, the enterprising guide in charge of our
rope, seeing a chance of an interesting rock climb, took
Messrs. Harmon, Pilkington and me along the ridge
itself, which terminates in a minor peak that provided
some enjoyable rock work. We reached the top about

Tivo Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. 151

1.30 and at first looked in vain for the others. Before
long, however, we distinguished them far below us on
the snowfield that lay between our minor peak and
McArthur. We descended to their level by a glorious
glissade, long, steep and safe, followed in their tracks
across an interminable stretch of snow, and joined them
at last waiting for us at the foot of Mt. McArthur.

It was now about 3.20. On this side the mountain
presented a fine rock arete, and the first parties, after
prospecting some time for a route, decided to take to the
screes on the right or Western side. Konrad, however,
thought he detected a sporting rock climb to the left,
v/hich if feasible would lead more directly to the summit.
He was let out to the full length of the rope, which was
just long enough to enable him to cross a smooth slab
of rock with almost imperceptible holds, and reach a
place of secure anchorage. Pilkington and I followed in
our turn, and were glad to know there was one above in
whom we could put our trust. There was a remarkable
similarity between this slab and the "Nose" on the North
climb of the Pillar Rock in Cumberland, in each case
faith being the virtue most needed by the leader. After
this the arete itself gave good, interesting climbing, but
had finally to be left for fear of sending down stones on
the parties below. Traversing to the left, a nasty piece
of loose earthy scree on the top of smooth rock was en-
countered, the hand holds being few and rotten. For-
tunately on this side the ridge it did not matter how
many stones were dislodged, and in time sounder rock
was reached and the summit attained about 4.50 p.m. The
other parties arrived only a few minutes later; so they
must have climbed with great rapidity by their less
direct route.

The half hour spent on this summit was again very
delightful. Owing to the lateness of the hour the colour-
ing was beautifully soft, and the mountains around the

152 Canadian Alpine Journal.

site of the O'Hara camp towards the south, for some
reason or other, seemed surprisingly near. The descent
was quick and easy. We unroped at the foot of the
Glacier at 6 p.m. and reached Camp No. 5 half an hour
later. The expedition had been an exceedingly fine one,
of a very high order of interest and variety; and it will
hold a position all by itself in my memory.

The Camp, situated at the head of the little Yoho
Valley exactly below Mt. President, was a very welcome
sight, and not less welcome was the splendid supper that
had been prepared for us. In particular the soup was a
veritable masterpiece, and for all the world reminded me
of the Bouillabaisse that one enjoys so much on the
French Riviera. Over my second or third helping
Thackeray's appropriate lines suggested themselves: —

"Indeed a rich and savoury stew 'tis;

And true philosophers, methinks,
Who love all kinds of natural beauties.

Should love good victuals and good drinks."
Kind thanks to the cook, and to the perfect organization
whereby, with never the least sign of a hitch, a com-
fortable camp, excellent meal and hearty welcome invar-
iably greeted those descending from a mountain.

On Saturday, the 14th, the self-sacrificing President
and Vice-Presidents for the first time during the week
allowed themselves the pleasure of an ascent, and they
took a party of some eighteen persons, including the
three English ladies, for what must have been a most
interesting (and certainly a very fitting) expedition,
namely, the traverse of Mts. President and Vice-Presi-
dent. For myself I was glad of a less strenuous day, and
greatly enjoyed walking with MacCarthy to Camp No.
6; after watching the old camp being broken up and the
horses loaded.

Rounding the lower slopes of the "Vice-President"
the route lay well above timber-line, and beautiful views

Tzvo Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. 153

were obtained down the Yoho Valley, on the opposite
side of which the celebrated Takakkaw Falls were seen
to the best advantage, with their remarkable rainbow
caused by the sun shining on the spray. After two or
three hours of rather rough walking a steep grass slope
brought us down to an excellent trail, which was follow-
ed to the last camp, alongside of Summit Lake. The
torrents crossing this trail were swollen through the
mid-day sun, and into one of them MacCarthy, slipping
on a boulder, fell. With great ability he scrambled out
ot the water; and having the heart of a boy for all his
seventy years, he treated the episode as the best joke
in the world. Nor did he fail to amuse the rest of the
party when he issued from his tent later on, his lower
man encased in a sleeping bag, as if the programme of
the evening festivities was likely to include a sack-race.
What it did include was a concert round a roaring camp
fire, when songs were sung, speeches made, good stories
told and interesting adventures related. One perhaps
specially remembers Mr. Fynn's account of the heroic be-
haviour of Miss Gertrude Bell, when caught by terrible
weather, she and her two guides (the brothers Fuhrer)
spent two nights high up on the Finsteraarhorn ; and the
modest speech of our good cook, Mr. Alldritt, in which
he told his experiences in the South African war, when
he went with the Canadian contingent to the help of the
Old Country in the time of her strain and stress.

Here Bartleei's narrative ends. It needs supplementing by a
few more words from his companion.

As the Summit Lake was the last of our camping-
giounds, and the party had only to work its way down
to Emerald Lake and on to Field on the morrow, the fun
was kept up till a late hour; but at last we groped our
way to our tents. We had just fitted ourselves into our
allotted spaces, like sardines in a box, when the Presi-
dent, followed by the Vice-President, came to our tent.

154 Canadian Alpine Journal.

the President carrying his private flask of "medicine" (we
were a strictly temperance Camp) and the Vice-Presi-
dent with a rug, the one to offer the "Old Man" a warm-
ing cordial, and the other, to tuck him up in an extra
blanket ; in case his cold bath had given him a chill.
Their kindly urbanity deserves, and here receives, warm
and cordial recognition.

Next morning out tents were folded for the last
time, and, in single file, we dropped down by a zigzag
trail through stunted brushwood on to a muddy, stony
floor at the extreme western edge of which, glistening in
the sunlight, lay the shrunken waters of Emerald Lake
which once must have covered the whole of the plain.
Rounding the northern shore of the lake we came upon
the Chalet Hotel — a tourist resort of the normal type.
In our haste to make sure that we had really returned
to civilization, the Englishmen gave a large order for
beer and cigars — quite forgetting that we were still the
guests of the Canadians. However, our hospitable hosts
would insist upon paying for what we had ordered, and
all we could do was to apologise humbly for the lapse
into bad manners into which our eagerness had hurried
us. By the way, talking of manners, the only bad man-
ners we came across in Canada were imported by our-
selves. On one occasion in a Railway Dining Car, Mac-
Carthy shouted to the attendant at the other end of the
Car, "Waiter, another plate," whereupon the waiter came
up to his side and whispered in the gentlest tones, "Say
Please." The missing word was promptly forthcoming,
and the Englishman received with humility, not unmixed
with amusement, the plate he had asked for and the
reproof he had deserved.

But to return to our story. After a sumptuous lunch,
eaten with as keen an appetite as Shackleton and his men
must have had when they returned from the South Pole
to New Zealand, waggonettes came round and carried

Two Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. 155

us off along a well-made road, canopied for several miles
by an avenue of pine-trees, to the Mt. Stephen Hotel at
Field, where we arrived at 5. So ended our visit to the
Alpine Club of Canada but the English guests were
naturally bursting with desire to show their appreciation
of the kindness and consideration they had received, and
to relieve themselves, as far as they could, of the burden
of obligation which lay heavily upon them. So the
tables were turned for a few hours that evening, and we
became the hosts and the Canadian Alpine Club our
guests at a dinner which Mr. Flindt, the courteous man-
ager of the Mt. Stephen Hotel, exhausted his resources to
supply.

After dinner, a flood of oratory poured itself forth
with the rapidity of the Kicking Horse River; but, as no
reporters were present, there are several deplorable gaps
in the record of the speeches delivered. Prof. Dixon, of
Manchester, occupied the Chair, and proposed the toast
of the evening, "Our Canadian Hosts" which was grace-
fully responded to by that prince of hosts, the genial
President of the A.C.C. Other toasts followed — that of
"the Boys," proposed by Mr. Solly and responded to by
Messrs. Bridgland, Alldritt and Ballentine ; that of "the
English Guests" proposed by the Vice-President and
responded to by Messrs. Dixon and MacCarthy. Dr.
Benson, of Dublin, when called upon to speak in res-
ponse to the toast of the "English Alpine Club," with
genuine Irish humour admitted the appropriateness of
his selection to respond, seeing that he was not an
Englishman, and not a member of the English Alpine
Club. Mr. George Smith, one of "the Boys," a Rhodes
Scholar, shortly to enter as an undergraduate at Balliol
College, Oxford, naturally felt qualified to propose "the
Ladies" as he was so soon to be a devotee at the shrine
of Minerva.

The "Old Man" has completely forgotten what he

156 Canadian Alpine Journal.

said in response to the toast of the "English Visitors,"
but he knows what he would have like to have said then,
and what he would not like to leave unsaid now. "We
English visitors have had a most delightful time, and
are overwhelmed with feelings of pleasure at the grand
mountain scenery to which we have been introduced
through the kind invitation of your President, and ot
gratitude for the unbounded hospitality which has made
our visit so agreeable. Believe me, I am not gasing. On
this Continent you are familiar with natural gas ; and, if
gas at all, mine is natural gas — naturally arising out of
the emotions which you have evoked. We have had
perfect weather, (barring the one thunderstorm), have
revelled in perfect health and spirits, and have been
companioned, w^aited on, and catered for by the most
cheery and good tempered fellows it has ever been our
lot to meet.

"The scenery through which we have passed has
been quite a revelation. Artemus Ward, humorously
patronizing Dame Nature for the clever way she had
done her crumpling to produce the Rocky Mountains of
the American Continent, gives her the testimonial — "The
Rockies are a great success" ; and so they are. While the
earth's molten crust was slowly cooling, She must have
dexterously puckered here, pleated there, crimped in one
place and craped in another with a far-seeing eye to the
general efifect when it should have solidified — hollows
not too deep, and heights not too steep to depress with
their inaccessibility the enthusiasm of all but the most
stalwart climbers. And Artemus Ward's verdict is just
that which the English climbers familiar with Switzer-
land's deeper valleys and steeper heights, conspicuously
endorse — "The Rockies are a great success." And our
visit to them has also been a great success, thanks to the
kindly skies we have lived under, the kindlier rocks we
have met with, and the kindliest hearts which have
greeted us during the past week.

Two Englishmen in the Yoho Valley. 157

"Emerson says of the mountains —

"Hither bring
Our insect miseries to the rocks ;
And the whole flight with pestering wing
Vanish, and cease their murmuring.
Vanish beside these dedicated blocks."

These 'miseries' of our working life — how true it is that
they are mere 'insects' compared with the mammoth
delights of our week in the Canadian Rockies.

"Members of the Alpine Club of Canada, from the
bottom of our hearts we thank you, and our parting
words to you are "Vivite et Valete."

158 Canadian Alf^inc Journal.

A GRADUATING CLIMB.

By Ethel Johns.

It was the Alpine Journal that did it. Journeying
peacefully along the sunny Portage Plains in the train
one day a copy lay beside me belonging to a fellow trav-
eller. It fell open at a page showing "The McTavish"
scaling a giddy precipice on Crows' Nest. Further along
was an article describing some climb which ended with
the magic sentence — "We had been out fourteen hours."
I drew a long breath, suddenly I was wearied of "the
great spaces washed with sun" and remembered the
Rockies as I had once glimpsed them, eighty miles away,
a fairyland of rose and grey and silver. The one desir-
able thing in life seemed to be to climb Crows' Nest and
to be out fourteen hours.

So it came to pass that one glorious August morning
a very scornful porter deposited me and my possessions
on the platform at Hector among a crowd of people all
talking at once and engaged in dragging their own par-
ticular dunnage out of a pile almost high enough to
constitute a qualifying climb. This mountain was re-
garded with extreme disfavor by the pack train officials,
who evidently considered my modest addition to the
heap as the proverbial last straw, and were openly dub-
ious of my sworn statement that it weighed only forty
pounds. I must confess that at this particular moment
I never felt more lonely in my life. The air was full of
shouted greetings and reminiscences in which I had no
part, but presently two of the lady members came over
to me and told me that a party was going to walk out to

■^

I* *4«;

W
(i(
K<!

o
o

H
O

a
g

i-i>.ito

A Graduating Climb. 159

camp in a short time and were so good to me that I took
heart of grace again.

While we were waiting one of my long cherished
dreams came true. I saw a Swiss guide in the flesh. So
many of one's dreams are spoiled in the realization ; but
that Guide was, as the Virginian puts it : "better than I
dreamed." He wore the official badge on his coat lapel.
He even sported the Tyrolean feather. His boots were as
thick and full of nails as I had hoped. He carried an ice-
axe, a rucksack and a coiled rope. I walked round him at
a respectful distance and regarded him from every angle.
He was a most satisfying person.

Presently there was a gathering of the clans and a
start was made. Such a morning! All blue and silver
and deep green, and not a sound but the rush of the
torrent over the broken boulders. Far ahead strode the
guide of my admiration followed by a select party who
were going to make a "quick trip." I wished I had gone
with them and not stayed with these people who trusted
themselves to an irresponsible individual who didn't look
like a mountaineer at all and whose slogan seemed to be
"Hop along. Sister Mary, hop along." The ascent began
to grow steeper. I began to feel awfully queer, as though
some one were sitting on my chest. I decided this must
be the result of transporting myself from seven hundred
feet above sea level to six thousand and then indulging
in physical exercise. It was a very disagreeable sensa-
tion. A kindly individual with a handkerchief gracefully
draped over the back of his neck noticed my distress and
suggested that the party halt as he was tired. I sank
down on a log and made noises like a dog who has been
chasing a rabbit. This was my first experience of Alpine
chivalry. For some strange reason it is always the
strongest member of the party who gets tired first. Just
as the weaker ones are praying for death as a relief from
their sufferings one of the strong ones who could go all

IGO Canadian Alpine Journal.

day without stopping-, suddenly discovers that he is quite
exhausted, in fact, cannot go another step. This condition
of affairs terminates abruptly when the weaker vessels
have got their breath and are beginning to take some
interest in life once more. This power of getting sudden-
ly and unaccountably tired increases in direct proportion
to the number of difficult climbs made by the individual
concerned — or, in other words, the better the climber the
more sympathy he has for those weaker than himself.
Which after all is what one would have expected. It
was at this juncture that I discovered that the irrespon-
sible one whom everybody addressed as "P.D." was
really half of the McTavish entity. It was rather a dis-
illusion. He was not dressed as I imagined a mountain-
eer should be. But apparently clothes are no criterion of
mountaineering. The real celebrities don't bother with
frills. They often scorn artistically adjusted puttees and
tie their trousers round their boot tops with a bit of string
instead. They wear fearsome sweaters and shocking bad
hats. So much for the modesty of true greatness.

The trail was not to be without adventure for me.
After my rest I started out like a giant refreshed and
presently came to a torrent bridged by a log of somewhat
slender proportions. Over they all went like a flock of
mountain goats. That is to say — all except me. I stop-
ped half way. In fact I wallowed in that torrent. It
was not deep but I made the most of it, and emerged
therefrom looking more like a muskrat than a human
being. It was not very comfortable walking in wet
clothes and when at last we did reach camp I found that
my outfit was left behind at Hector. There was nothing
for it but to drape myself about in blankets and seek the
chaste seclusion of tent number five while my clothes
were sent to the cook tent to be dried.

It is useless to attempt a description of the camp at
Lake O'Hara. Those who were there need no descrip-

.:/ ^

-Jfe^-" i£-^J^-.^

■n

A Graduating Climb. 161

tion. They have but to close their eyes to see again that
mountain meadow, starred with ling, flaming with paint-
er's brush — its rows of white tents, the shining Adonis
pool and all about it the snowy hills of God.

After all my most vivid abiding memory is of the
day on Huber. The side trips had helped my wind con-
siderably and had given me some experience of scramb-
ling, so on Thursday evening my name figured among a
large number of others who were to attempt Huber on the
following day. Sleep did not come easily that night and
it seemed a long time before I heard the President's
voice repeating the well-known formula — "It is now five
o'clock, if you are not ready in an hour's time the party
starts without you." On this particular morning he
added a corollary that still further dashed my wavering
spirits — "the rocks are slippery to-day, those going do
so at their own risk." Soon we were assembled round
the smouldering embers of the camp fire, and the various
"ropes" answered the roll call. Ours was the last rope
to start, it was the last rope to reach the summit, strange
to say it was the last rope to get in at night. In fact, it
was a very bad rope, Edouard Feuz said we were "the
limit" — and he ought to know for we were his rope.

Mindful of good advice I planted myself next the
guide as we skirted the shores of the lake. It was a
glorious morning — Cathedral was reflected in the mirror
of O'Hara, its summit already touched with flame. Little
wisps of mist still clung about Odaray but Huber tower-
ed above us, its castellated summit dark against the
morning sky. Before long we were out of the timber
on to the scree, the incline grew steeper and my troubles
began; I was soon gasping like a dying fish. About half
way up we paused to rest. Edouard looked us over with
a cynical eye and much to my disgust put me back to the
middle of the rope and put another member of the party,
a most plucky climber, next to him. I made a feeble pro-

16*-^ Canadian Alpine Journal.

test but it was no use. "You'll get your second wind
pretty soon— You can make it allright" said heartless
Edouard and off we started again.

People who have never done any climbing have
since asked me how I enjoyed the glorious view which
unfolded before us as we went up. I have been forced
to draw on my imagination for a reply to this question.
As a matter of fact all I saw on the way up Huber was
Edouard's boots. They prevaded the whole landscape
and rose and fell with the regularity of clock work.
Occasionally, very occasionally, these boots were near
enough to be studied in detail, but more often I had to
content myself with mere impressionistic glimpses of
them disappearing upwards, ever upwards.

After we left the col we roped up and here we over-
took the party ahead of us who had had to wait at "the
rope ladder" familiar to all who graduated on Huber.
Somehow or other that rock work was traversed. We
had perforce to go slowly and here Edouard's prophecy
came true— I got my second wind. Looking back on the
climb as a whole the worst part of it was struggling
through the timber and up the scree to the col. In Mr.
Mantalini's immortal words, that was "one dem'd horrid
gnnd." Finally we arrived at the snow slope immediate-
ly below the summit. Photographs of this interesting
spot are most misleading. They represent it as a mild
and innocuous slope, whereas it was really, according to
my recollection of it and also from tales told previously
by newly graduated ones, almost perpendicular. Even
our accomplished end man acknowledged it was "an
awkward little place." Slowly we crept out— one man
moving at a time— and at last it was done. We had
climbed Huber and stood on the very Peak of Things.

We spent about half an hour on the summit and
then started the descent. By this time the steps on the
snow slope were pretty well worn and the going was

A Graduating Climb. 163

decidedly slippery. Edouard's adjurations to the "lady
in the middle" became more and more peremptory.
"Stick your feet in" said he, don't walk like a chicken."
The words were hardly out of his mouth before the
aforesaid chicken was accidentally pulled off her feet by
the gentleman ahead who took an unusually long stride
and pulled the rope taut. Something had to go, so I did.
At least I started, but as they say in describing big
climbs : "The rope held." I should say it did. It nearly cut
me in half. Fortunately my knee caught in one of the
steps and I managed to hold on to my alpenstock, so be-
fore long the chastened chicken and the rest of the party
were safely down on the snow-field leading to the rock
work. Here Edouard decided we might try to glissade.
For some reason it was not a success. Either we started
too soon or we did not all start together. Something
went wrong evidently, for all I can remember is trying
to dodge the gentleman behind me, who being heavier
naturally came down faster and insisted on using me as
a toboggan. From the distance we must have resembled
a baby avalanche. However, we covered considerable
ground and, as it was getting late and the rock work
had still to be negotiated, perhaps it was just as well we
did hurry involuntarily.

Oh ! that rock work — Coming up was nothing to get-
tmg down. To Edouard's disgust I made the attempt with
my back to the rock instead of in the conventional man-
ner. I knew I didn't look a bit like the picture of The
McTavish on Crows' Nest, but I also knew that if I
turned I should get dizzy. But turn I did in answer to
Edouard's pleadings, and dizzy I got, and when finally
I half slid half tumbled to the bottom of that rope ladder
(ladder indeed !) I asked to be let alone to die in peace.
Edouard's treatment of my sad collapse was to force
upon me a little piece of hard cake and some water which
he found in a crevice. These had a marvellous effect and

164 Canadian Alpine Journal.

before very long we reached camp where the evening
fire was blazing gloriously and the President as usual
was prowling around the outskirts on the lookout for
late parties. They gave us three cheers — I never heard
a sweeter sound in my life — and we gave three croaky
ones for Edouard who certainly deserved them — for had
he not shepherded us to the top of Huber "by the power
of man"? Then some one gave me tea and more and
more tea, and presently, sinful pride having rule inside
I went out to the camp fire to tell fearsome tales of the
day's adventures. Now for the first time I felt as though
I belonged in that circle. Never, never should I be a
mountaineer, the precipices of Crows' Nest were not for
me, but nevertheless the climb had been made, badly,
falteringly, but to the top and accordingly I was made
free of the great and noble company of mountaineers.

That night as I vainly twisted and twined to ease
my aching bones I lived the whole day over again. The
vision from the summit of Huber unfolded itself again
before me — that sea of peaks, height calling unto height
and depth to depth — the Kingdoms of the Earth and
the glory thereof spread out before us.

In conclusion let me not forget to record — "We had
been out fifteen hours."

1.^

iX^

F. It'. Freeborn, Photo

GENTLEMENS' QUARTERS
O'Hara Camp

/■. ir. /■... '"./-n, Photo

PHOTOGRAPHING A COLONY OF YOUNG MARMOTS

An Afternoon Stroll in the Selkirks. 165

AN AFTERNOON STROLL IN THE SELKIRKS.

By H. B. Dixon.

It was a sad moment when the English party had
to say good-bye to the Canadian Alpine Club at Field.
We had been the guests of the Club for nearly three
^-eeks — guests of honour, so to speak, at Banff, of friend-
ship at Lake O'Hara, and— we feel we might almost say
— of affection in the Yoho. And here were all the "boys"
on the platform to see us off. How fond we had grown
of these fine fellows with their broad shoulders and ring-
ing voices. How much we appreciated being looked after
so assiduously. How much we should miss that strident
call to meals— "Roll up !" Why they should have become
attached to us — beggared our understanding. But the
fact remains, they really seemed to enjoy fetching and
carrying, cooking and washing up, tent-pitching and bed-
making — all for our comfort.

We parted with many vows that we would all meet
again in the Rockies, and the words as spoken did sound
hollow. But the President's sentiment was more wisely
put : "Well, some of us will meet again, and we'll remem-
ber the rest."

"All aboard!" and we disengaged our hands to swing
on to the moving steps, and waved hats and scarves as
our west-bound train began the long descent of Kicking-
Horse Pass. It was the end of a rare good time, which
1 have tried to tell of (I know how inadequately) in an-
other Alpine Journal.

That afternoon, as our train breasted Rogers Pass,
we looked across the valley at the tops of our friends of
the Rampart Range, "Afton, and "Rampart" and the

16f) Canadian Alpine Journal.

"Dome," and in a short time we were quartered at
Glacier House where other members of the party were
awaiting us. Glacier House is enlarged and improved,
but is not yet improved out of all recognition — like the
"Chalet" at Lake Louise. Our kind hostess of 1897, Miss
Annie Mollison, has gone to Calgary, where indeed she
met our train and pressed on us baskets of fruit to beguile
our journey. But nevertheless we received a warm
welcome and were made very comfortable at Glacier.

I must confess our mountaineering here was of the
idlest. Perhaps it was the return to the flesh-pots that
was responsible for this slackness. Beef-steaks and ome-
lettes for breakfast — though they give an admirable sense
of completeness to the morning — do not induce any
abnormal desire to make early starts. And so it came
about that we wandered round Marion Lake, visited the
Caves, and hacked steps on the Illecillewaet with no
particular object — but always to the intense interest of
the Yankee crowd of trippers. When my Oxonian
daughter in her climbing costume took a stroll with me
on the glacier we evoked quaint remarks : "Snakes,
there's a plucky little girl takin' the Swiss guide right up
the ice." And so our last day came — a really fine day —
and we hadn't even attempted a peak. A picnic and tea
on the Asulkan Glacier was the piece de resistance for the
afternoon — "Why not climb Afton and join the others
for tea?"

So Mrs. Spence, with her graduating honours fresh
upon her, took me up the Abbott trail in a blazing sun.
The trail loses itself — or we lost it — on the Abbott Alp.
But we found a broken place in the cliff that faced us, and
after an easy scramble reached the ridge. The view is
wonderfully fine from the Alp, but the ridge opens up
new ranges and the magnificent snow fields of Mt. Bon-
ney to the West. It would have been a sin to hurry over
this. We ate our luncheon, and lay in the sun — cotdd we

An Afternoon Stroll in the Selkirks. 167

have slept? — for a delicious hour. Then we traversed
the ridge and climbed the rocks of Afton. We ought —
as we had decided to descend to the Asulkan glacier — to
have gone straight down the snow couloir from the col
between the two peaks, but my companion has a feeling
that snow should only be tackled if no other way is open,
and beneath the lower peak an enticing rock chimney
led down and would certainly "go" for two or three
hundred feet by the aid of a few traverses.

A large party on the Asulkan glacier below watched
us through Swiss glasses as we reconnoitered the face.
They were already where we had promised to join them
for tea. Well, we had a jolly climb down — keeping as
near as possible to the edge of the buttress that falls
from this point — picking our chimney to the right and
left of it, and traversing round on sound ledges until we
found another opening. The rock was firm and the holds
good, but it took time — and I was not surprised when
we reached the foot of the great cliff that we had been
an hour and a half on the rocks.

From our position it looked quite an easy run down
either to the snout of the glacier or to the river run-
ning from it — and it was only 4.30 p.m. But I had been
in a Selkirk bush before and warned Mrs. Spence that
the little belt of forest and bush between us and the
river would take some crossing. What I did not expect
was that the apparently easy grass slopes leading from
the rock-face of Afton down to the wood would take
nearly two hours ; but they did. The grass was so steep
and slippery that even with good nails I slathered down
it in jerky glissades, and Mrs. Spence who had lost
nearly all her nails had almost to crawl. We found a few
patches of old snow which made easy going, and we
lingered a moment in a hollow of the hill ablaze with
yellow and white lilies. At 6.20 p.m. we reached the
tree line. Should we select the pine-wood or the scrub?

168 Canadian Alpine Journal.

I knew the wood was bad. so — probably unwisely — chose
the scrub. A few minutes made it plain that it would
be a fearful fight to get through on the level ; when it
dipped down it would be hopeless. So we selected a
small stream and followed right down its bed. At first
we stepped gingerly from stone to stone as we parted
and pushed through the boughs overhead. By keeping
to the stream — and we soon forgot to bother whether
we stepped in the water or not — we could just see what
we were going to step into; but after an hour's struggle
we could hear that we were near a waterfall, and present-
ly we saw our stream slide over a smooth slab and dis-
appear. The bush was too thick to let us see what fall
there was. We turned out of the bed of the stream
and forced a way through the bush to the left. After
traversing some thirty or forty yards I thought we might
venture forwards — testing the ground (which it was quite
impossible to see, for we were walking on bent-down
boughs) with the ice-axe at every step. Then without
the slightest warning — for my axe struck something hard
in front of me — I took a step on to what appeared solid
ground and, whatever it was, "it failed beneath my feet."
I went straight down, tearing away the twigs I was
grasping in my left hand, down through a region of total
darkness, scraping along what I took to be a stem (but
it turned out to be a hanging root) and coming into the
light — and also stopping — in a sitting position with one
leg round the root, which made a convenient loop before
running back to the ground above. Long rootlets hung
in a festoon round my head, but beneath me it was light
enough, for I looked down on tree tops forty feet below
me. My perch seemed secure, so I had time to look
round. Away to my right was the water-fall — descend-
ing quite clear of the cliiif which I could just touch with
my axe. A great slice of clifif had flaked off leaving the
earth and roots, which it had supported, overhanging

An Afternoon Stroll in the Selkirks. 169

like a cornice. The rock was hopelessly smooth and
leant over towards me ; there was no getting up or down
it. Below was space and waving tree-tops, above me
the smooth straight root gave the only path; I had to
swarm it. The first eight feet were simple climbing, but
the rope and axe were awkward impedimenta. Then the
roots got complicated and I could not push my shoul-
ders through. There was nothing to get one's feet on,
and as the seconds passed I thought of a descent and a
tumble into the tree tops would be the "way out."
Then I managed to get one shoulder jammed between the
roots, and kicking out "behind and before" in a final
effort caught a toe on some unseen projection. This
gave enough leverage to force my shoulders through,
and in another moment I had a foot-hold and it was
easy work to push a way through the dark hole above.
I was surprised to find I had gone down a drop of sixteen
feet. These acrobatics over — and a brief breathing space
allowed — we took a fresh traverse to the left and then
cautiously turned down the slope again. It was still
steep, and until we had forced a way down some two hun-
dred feet we could not be sure we were not stepping
into the blue at every step. That little belt of scrub took
us two mortal hours, and the light was just disappearing
as we emerged into the comparatively level "meadow"
by the river.

I spotted and followed a track where grass and
weeds had been trampled down and bushes bent and
broken for a height of two feet six or so. "Why a party
has been along here," cried Mrs. Spence. Yes, a grizzly
or a large brown "party" had been along pretty recently,
but there was no time to discuss details if we meant to
cross the Asulkan river and get home that night. I kept
a fairly bright look-out for the "party," and on reaching
a spot that plainly showed his claw marks judged it
expedient to make a slight detour. Mr, Bear might turn

170 Canadian Alpine Journal.

nasty if he thought we were pursuing him on his way to
his evening drink.

We reached the river and found it deep and rapid.
We forced a way for some hundred yards down the left
bank and then Mrs. Spence spotted below us a natural
bridge. It was a large fallen tree and made an excellent
bridge even in the gloom. Having crossed the water we
scaled and tumbled over fallen timber till we hit the
path. Hurrah ! we were through !

The light was now gone, but the path could hardly
be mistaken — even in the dark — and we sang in pure
light-heartedness. But we were to have one more sen-
sation. Though the rocks and trees to our right were
lost in gloom, the white foam of the torrent on our left
gave a half-light that let us see a few yards ahead. I
don't know whether we had bear on the brain — but there
right in the path as we turned a corner of rock stood Mr.
Bruin. I cannot exactly say — as the poet says of another
sudden vision —

"His loveliness with shame and with surprise
Froze my swift speech."
for it was too dark to discern the beauties of his form.
But I caught the glint of a small eye as he turned, and
distinctly saw the grey fur round his neck bristle as he
waited for us. Our song ended with a jerk, and we and
he stood still and silent.

Now according to all poetic canons a gaunt wolf, or
(presumably) a grizzly, when he meets an unarmed
person (of blameless habits) singing a song in a wood,
should immediately turn tail when he hears the name of
the heroine of the song — be she

"Lalage, Neaera, Haidee, or Elaine or Mary Ann."
A fortiori when a lady is actually present, he should not
stand upon the order of his going, but go at once. Stay :
was I judging Mr. Bruin fairly? My companion is tall

An Afternoon Stroll in the Selkirks. 171

and slim, and was correctly attired as an active member
of the Canadian A.C. Should / have been sure, if I could
have put myself in his place, that it zvas a lady? Anyway
he stood his ground stubbornly; but he did not come at
us. I looked to right and left, feeling we might, without
loss of dignity, yield him the path if we could find a way
round. It was not easy. Then came a happy inspiration.
I felt for my matches, picked out two and advanced bet-
ween him and the torrent — striking a light within two
yards of his nose. And lo ! the mystery was revealed.
It was a fretful porcupine standing on a black rock, and
shaking indignant quills at our intrusion.

An hour later we crept into Glacier House dishevel-
led, stained and hungry. And Mrs. Young, the hostess,
shook her head at us and said we were incorrigible, but
gave us an excellent supper all the same.

172 Canadian Alpine Journal.

WITH THE SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING
CLUB AT EASTER.

By G. M. Smith.

When the Scottish Mountaineering Club assembled
in a distant, northwest corner of rugged Ross-shire for
their annual Easter meet, it was discovered that a
quorum of the Alpine Club of Canada had also gathered
together. The presence of that quorum may justify some
account of the proceedings in the Canadian Alpine
Journal.

Travelling north as the guest of Mr. Solly, I awoke
on the Thursday morning before Easter to find myself
among the brown Highland hills, whose summits were
still covered with snow — a startling surprise, with the
previous night's picture of a crowded English city still
impressed upon my mind. At Kingussie, where we issu-
ed forth to claim breakfast baskets, ordered for members
of the Club a month before, came the first deep breath
of Highland air. The holiday had begun.

On the station platform at Inverness rucksacks and
ice-axes betrayed the motives of a jolly band of mountain-
eers who seemed to have suddenly assembled. Time,
it was explained, was invented for slaves and is no
object in the Highlands, and before the train for
Achnasheen had proved the fact, the Alpine experiences
of the year had been recounted and the tale of the O'Hara
camps ten times told.

Then a plunge into the heart of the Highlands —
under the crags, through the glens and beside the lochs.
Here and there a cairn marked, not the triumph of the
intrepid climber, but the site of some ancient struggle

With the Scottish Mountaineering Club at Easter. 173

of the clans in memorable cattle raids; and from the
corner of the carriage a modern representative of the
clans, who had turned his spears into ice-axes and has
abandoned cattle raiding for "Alpinism" pointed with
pride to the monuments of ancestral vigour. But the
fighting traditon remains. A sturdy Gael seeing "battle-
axes" in the carriage, furtively inquired the nature of the
row.

From Achnasheen, the Scotch cousin of the Can-
adian Hector, a ten mile diive to Kinlochewe at the head
of Loch Maree, opened before us the wild, rugged and
desolate, yet wonderfully beautiful scenery of Ross-
shire. The snow-clad peaks above, a surprise to eyes
which imagined that Canada and Switzerland had a
monopoly of snow, and the deep brown lochs below, the
rushing mountain torrents, the peat moors, the frag-
mentary clumps of bright green pines, sole survivors of
great forests, and the heather with its faded flowers — the
whole fused into a mellow mass of colour by the mystic
Highland lights — gave promise of one of those other
Edens which are the Paradise of mountaineers. On the
hillside two stately stags gazing curiously at the intrud-
ers before plunging madly up the hillside, warned us
that we trod by permission on forbidden ground.

The inn at Kinlochewe was the headquarters of the
main section of the meet, for limited accommodation
forces the club to divide. To simply say that it is a
Highland inn is eminent recommendation. No tin plates,
no canopy of canvas, no brushed tents, no camp fire, yet
marvelously fascinating and comfortable.

There is a temptation to wander from the technicali-
ties of climbing to a contemplation of the beauties of
Ross-shire. For the scenic aspect often is pre-eminent.
The Scotch mountains have their difficulties; but for the
slack man and the photographer, there is an easy way to
the summit or rather to the various summits, for in a

174 Coiadiaii Alpine Journal.

day one climbs a range and not a single peak. To satisfy
the "Steigenlust," the strenuous climber finds the rock
faces of Coire MacFhearchair on Ben Eighe or the
northern pinnacles of Liathach. Readers should perhaps
be warned against attempts to pronounce these names.
Mr. Roosevelt and phonetic spelling have not yet in-
vaded the Highlands. With the silent lapse of time and
the mutations of language many of the surnames of these
"Bens" are impenetrable mysteries.

But what of climbing? Perhaps I may narrate
briefly my own experiences, which are also those of Mr.
Solly. Good Friday, three weeks of Ben Eighe were
climbed, and on this day Mr. G. E. Howard was one of
the party. The altitude of these Scotch mountains is but
slightly over 3,000 feet but starting from sea-level one
gets the full benefit of the stated height. Over the moors
and up the stalking path, across a high plateau, up a
steep snow slope and over a small cornice and nothing
remained but a windy walk in the Scotch mist to the first
peak. One could not see far in the mist but it seemed as
if huge Alpine ranges loomed up before us. Distances and
heights are magnified. Traversing the ridge to the next
peak we encountered a row of "Black men," pinnacles of
Torridon sandstone which obstruct the way. From the
second to the third peak it is a matter of scrambling over
rocks. A glissade, another stalking path and a five mile
walk completed an easy first day.

Saturday opened with a ten mile drive to the sea-
loch Torridon, followed by a long walk around the base
of Liathach to an inland valley, from which the northern
pinnacles were accessible. But the roundabout way
along an old lateral moraine was long, if delightful, and
it was one o'clock before the main ridge was reached.
The north side of Liathach has two horseshoe corries
and the famous northern pinnacles, a deeply serrated
ridge of Torridon sandstone, rising in steps to the cen-

With the Scottish Mountaineering Club at Easter. 175

tral peak, makes the wall between them. The lateness
of the hour and a gale from the sea made it impossible to
get down into the corrie and up the wet rock of the pin-
nacles. We therefore traversed the serrated main ridge,
over pyramid-like peaks looking down into the two un-
paralleled corries. Huge white valleys, they seemed,
walled by the steep, black rock of Liathach, with its
long perpendicular gullies outlined in snow. In the dis-
tance the eye travels along the deep valleys on either
side or out across Loch Torridon and the sea to the Isle
of Skye. On the last peak a snowstorm led to a hurried,
glissading retreat. Tea and the trap we found at the
keeper's lodge.

On Sunday, a long walk on the moors with a return
by Lochs Conlin and Clair revealed one of the beauty
spots of Scotland. The afternoon was clear. To the
right in the distance the snows of Liathach were bright
in the sunshine; to the left the sun went down behind a
sombre, wooded hill. Across the loch rises another
wooded hill, with a hunting lodge in the trees. As we
traversed the opposite shore, the v/hole scene is mirrored
in the dark lochs in an ever-changing panorama of extra-
ordinary detail and colour, the white chimneys of the
lodge, appearing as stalactites in a gloomy cave, lighten-
ed by the snows of Liathach through an aperture con-
cealed by the pines and birches of the foreground.

Monday's climb up the sides of Corrie MacFhear-
chair, returning over all the peaks of Ben Eighe was
likewise full of interest — the picturesque ice-bound loch
with the corrie in the background, suggestive of Mc-
Arthur without the Biddle Glacier, the climb up steep,
crusted slopes, the views of Liathach, the distant out-
look to Loch Ewe, to the peaks of Skye and to the outer
Hebrides. Similiarly Tuesday's walk up Slioch gave in-
comparable glimpses of a score of picturesque lochs and
valleys.

176 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Wednesday, we left Kinlochewe for Dundonnell on
Little Loch Broom, a twenty-four mile walk through
the glens, now untrodden save by deer and their hunters,
over two 1,0(X) foot passes and around the charming Loch
Fada. A long walk in a third valley along a stream, of
which the deep pools everywhere invited a plunge,
brought us to a gamekeeper's cottage, where
with true Highland hospitality we were given tea. Still
eio-ht more miles over unknown moors and the unfamiliar
mountainside of the Teallach Range, with darkness com-
ing on. Then followed a most exciting walk over the up-
land moors and through the darkest and gloomiest of
glens to another Highland inn and another Highland din-
ner. The pleasure of reaching Dundonnell was not in-
comparable to an arrival in Paradise Valley after a
journey over the Abbot and Mitre Passes.

On Thursday, a late start did not permit us to tra-
verse the whole of the Teallach Range— perhaps the
most difficult of all in the neighborhood — but reaching
the highest point in the long broken ridge, we returned as
we had come. To gain the final peak, by a traverse of a
soft snow slope over a precipice falling sheer in the loch
in the valley, the rope was necessary. This was the only
occasion on which it was used.

Friday, a motor carried us thirty-six miles to the
nearest station, Garve— another surprise to any who
imagine that one can't get off the trodden paths in the
British Isles. The night was spent in Inverness and
Saturday, the Higlands abandoned.

Climbing in the Highlands, it is obvious, finds its
charm in the picturesque. But it is also extremely stim-
ulating, if not thrilling. With the background of inns, it
may be called comfortable. It is none the less delight-
ful. The Ross-shire Ranges, moreover, are sufficiently
far from civilization. A few crofters, shepherds and
gamekeepers are the sole inhabitants at Easter time of

With the Scottish Mountaineering Club at Easter. 177

this distant corner of Great Britain where the cry "back
to the land" is meaningless. Here are the haunts of
grouse and hare, of eagle, the ptarmigan and the raven ;
the deer are monarchs of the glen. Easter is the climbing
season; then the deer forests are open and the snow is
on the mountains.

Into Kinlochewe, came the merry mountaineering
invasion, filling the inn, the manse, the cottage. There
the camp-fire spirit of the Rockies found a counterpart.
One heard much of the hospitality of the Alpine Club of
Canada, but there too, Canadian hospitality found a
serious rival. Great interest was evinced in the Canadian
Rockies and nothing but the routine duties of life, or
perhaps the possibilities of a general election, seems to
prevent many from visiting the camp of 1910 in the
Valley of the Ten Peaks.

There were no ladies at the meet. A separate sister
organization is the pride of Scotland.
"And from Caithness down to Arran, on the mountains
big and barren,
You can trace their little footprints in the snow."

Scotland, it may be said in conclusion, is not neces-
sarily as advertised. It tried to rain but twice during
the meet.

178 Canadian Alpine Journal.

MATHEW ARNOLD'S ALPINE POETRY.

Of truly Alpine verse in English poetry there is
not very much, and the reason is too obvious to mention.
Without greatly caring for the philosophical theories
concerning Nature held by Wordsworth or Coleridge or
Browning or any of the Master Poets, the ordinary
mountain climber who reads poetry is attracted to
descriptions of mountain landscape. What he wants is
truth of description, pictures that please him because he
has seen the sights and heard the sounds and felt the
thrill of the upper world. Without the poet, these
pictures continually flash upon his inward eye, but his
rapture of memory has no voice. Take, for instance,
Coleridge's great apostrophe to Mont Blanc, surely the
sublimest Alpine utterance in the language : it is now
our poetic expression who, without it, were dumb. We
might climb high mountains till the crack of doom, and
still be dumb ; and it is well, since our silent memories
and feelings are uttered forth by singers so inspired.

We could essay no more delightful task between
climbing seasons in the long winter evenings when the
next summer's campaign is being affectionately planned,
than to make for ourselves an Alpine anthology. Here
is an idea gratis for that fruitful anthologist, Mr. C. V.
Lucas, who might call it "The Alpine Pageant/' It
would be an "unspeakably slight" though indubitably
choice volume. In it we should find some beautiful
fragments and more than one whole poem of Mathew
Arnold's. R. H. Hutton, than whom Arnold has had no
more sympathetic and discerning critic, found a languor
of death even in his poems of Nature. The phrase was
Hazlitt's applied to Wordsworth's "Loadamia"; and

Mathew Arnold's Alpine Poetry. 179

Mr. Hutton quotes the whole terse sentence as true of
the body of Arnold's verse: having "the sweetness, the
gravity, the strength, the beauty, and the languor of
death; calm contemplation and majestic pains." He finds
that this languor drives Arnold to Nature and haunts
him there, albeit his pulse beats stronger under her spell.
But I think there is genuine passion in Arnold's Alpine
passages; and one poem, at least, is strong with a
strength born of the poet's love, deep and vital, of wild
alpine beauty. True, all these poems of Switzerland
are marked with a hopeless human love, real or imagin-
ary, for a lady whom he names Marguerite. But it is
to the high Alps with their purple hills, eternal snows,
and exulting winds that he turns for healing and re-
freshment. And most of ihese fragments are steeped in
profoundest melancholy, but that is not owing to any-
thing in the scenes he describes. Take first, some pas-
sages from the groups of poems whose theme is his
unrequited love of Marguerite. As far as possible I
shall leave out the lines referring to her.

Some day I shall be cold, I know.
As is the eternal moon-lit snow
Of the high Alps, to which I go.

And as this brimmed unwrinkled Rhine
And that far purple mountain line
Lie sweetly in the look divine
Of the slow-sinking sun;

So let me lie, and calm as they
Let beam upon my inward view
Those eyes of deep, soft, lucent hue —
Eyes too expressive to be blue.
Too lovely to be grey."

180 Canadian Alpine Journal.

And this poem in which the elements are the voice
of his longing heart :

"Ye storm-winds of Autumn
Who rush by, who shake
The window, and ruffle
The gleam-lighted lake ;
Who cross to the hill-side
Thin-sprinkled with farms,
Where the high woods strip sadly
Their yellowing arms ; —
Ye are bound for the mountains —
Ah, with you let me go
Where your cold distant barrier,
The vast range of snow,
Through the loose clouds lift dimly
Its white peaks in air —
How deep is their stillness!
Ah! would I were there!"

Then he hears her voice on the stairway as music
from some "wet, bird-haunted English lawn" or from
some clear mountain brook. But

"Hark! fast by the window
The rushing winds go.
To the ice-cumbered gorges,
The vast seas of snow.
There the torrents drive upward
Their rock-strangled hum.
There the avalanche thunders
The hoarse torrent dumb.
— I come, O ye mountains!
Ye torrents, I come !"

Mathew Arnold's Alpine Poetry. 181

The interlude brings her figure casting its shadow,
then her face, eyes, hair, cheeks and lips described in ex-
quisitely delicate phrasing. And again the tumultuous
winds :

"Hark ! the wind rushes past us —

Ah ! with that let me go

To the clear waning hill-side

Unspotted with snow,

There to watch, o'er the sunk vale,

The frore mountain wall.

Where the nich'd snow-bed sprays down

Its powdery fall.
"There its dusky blue clusters

The aconite spreads ;

There the pines slope, the cloud-strips

Hung soft in their heads.

No life but, at moments.

The mountain-bee's hum.

I come, O ye mountains!

Ye pine woods, I come!"

The stanzas following are poignant with the pain
of separation, and he turns to Nature in whose heart is
balm for all who love her.

"Blow, ye winds I lift me with you !
I come to the wild.
Fold closely, O Nature!
Thine arms round thy child.

To thee only God granted
A heart ever new:
To all always open;
To all always true.

182 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Ah, calm me! restore me!
And dry up my tears
On they high mountain platforms,
Where morn first appears.

Where the white mists, forever,
Are spread and upf url'd ;
In the stir of the forces
Whence issued the world."

Were there space, I might quote some lovely Alpine
verses from '"Obermann" and from "The Grande Char-
treuse," but enough has been quoted to prove Mathew
Arnold worthy a place in any Alpine anthology. — E.P.

I'i

HECTOR G. WHEELER

In Memoriam. 183

IN MEMORIAM.

Hector G. Wheeler.

The death occurred on July 6th, 1909, at Hawthorne,
Ontario, of Hector George Wheeler, Assistant Chief
Mountaineer of the Alpine Club and an official of the
Dominion Topographical Survey. It was owing to ex-
posure in the field that Mr. Wheeler was smitten by a
severe illness which kept him for four months in the
hospital at Revelstoke and which developed into an in-
curable malady. Until the end almost, he was hopeful
of recovery and eager to get back to the mountains.
Shortly before his death he said to the writer, 'T shall
see you at Camp at Lake O'Hara, but I shall not be
climbing any this year." I had taken him a box of
anemones, the first spring blossoms on the prairie, and
he said, "they will just be blooming on the mountains
when we get to camp." But the signs of death were even
then in his face. Throughout his long and painful illness,
his patience never wearied and his sweet temper never
failed.

Mr. Wheeler was a son of Captain E. O. Wheeler of
"The Rocks," Kilkenny, Ireland. He was born in Lon-
don in 1873 and came with his parents to Canada in
1876. He served an apprenticeship of five years as an
engraver with the British American Bank Note Com-
pany, at its close accepting the position of topographical
draughtsman in the office of his brother, Mr. A. O.
Wheeler, Topographer in the Department of the Interior.
One of the most skilful draughtsmen in Canada, he was
an invaluable member of the stafif. Several of the pub-

184 Canadian Alpine Journal.

lished. and many of the unpublished, maps of the Sel-
kirk and Main Ranges of the Rockies are the work of
his pen.

These maps are made from photographs obtained
from the summits of mountains, a process involving
difficult and dangerous climbing, often of unknown
peaks. While attaining to great skill both on ice and
rock, Mr. Wheeler had several times escaped death by a
hair's breadth. Once he fell through a snow-bridge into
a crevasse and was saved by his ice axe catching on the
edges; and twice he shot over precipitous ice-slopes, his
descent being arrested as if by miracle. An original mem-
ber of the Alpine Club, he was closely connected with all
its operations. He was one of the most trusted guides,
and under his leadership many have graduated to active
membership. The qualities which won him confidence
as guide were the qualities which brought him respect
and affection as man — great strength, and a skill, born of
study and experience and love of climbing; infinite
patience and gentleness of temper; and an altogether
sweet and unconscious selflessness. Members of this
Club did not wait for his death to express their admira-
tion and affection for Hector Wheeler. These things
were said of him while yet he was alive and active. The
writer of this too feeble tribute holds his memory dear for
the influence of his strong, gentle spirit. It was the
gentleness which makes a man great. His true home
was in the mountains ; he loved them and left them with
regret, hoping and expecting to return.

"From depth to height, from height to loftier height,
The climber sets his foot and sets his face.
Tracks lingering sunbeams to their halting-place.
And counts the last pulsations of the light.
Strenuous through day and unsurprised by night
He runs a race with Time and wins the race,

REV. J. C. HERDMAX, D.D

In Memoriam. 185

Emptied and stript of all save only Grace,

Will, Love, a threefold panoply of might.

Darkness descends for light he toiled to seek :

He stumbles on the darkened mountain-head,

Left breathless in the unbreathable thin air,

Made freeman of the living and the dead : —

He wots not he has topped the top-most peak,

But the returning sun will find him there."

— Christina Rossetti.

The Reverend J. C. Herdman, D.D.

The late Dr. Herdman was a native of Pictou
County, N.S. He came to Alberta in 1885, when twenty-
nine years of age and for nearly twenty years was pastor
of Knox Church, Calgary. He resigned the incumbency
in 1903 to assume the position of Superintendent of
Presbyterian Missions for the Province of Alberta and
Eastern British Columbia. He died on 7th June, 1910, at
the early age of fifty-four years, and was buried at Banff
in the Rocky Mountains Park amidst the snow-clad
peaks and pine forests he loved so well.

In March, 1906, he travelled as a delegate to Winni-
peg to attend the organization meeting of the Alpine
Club of Canada, and was elected as its first Western
Vice-President. Always an enthusiastic and able moun-
taineer, he was a keen supporter of the Club and a
regular attendant at its Annual Camps. To his untiring
zeal in this direction the Club owes much during its
infancy and the subsequent success it has attained. Apart
from the Annual Camps the Doctor was a strenuous
mountaineer and did good independent work. He was
one of the few men who had taken part in the noble sport
in the Canadian Rockies prior to the organization of the
Club. Amongst his achievements may be mentioned an
early climb of Mt. Hector, the monarch of the Bow

186 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Valley, when the Doctor used an ice-axe made from a
pattern furnished by him to a Calgary blacksmith. It
was truly a wonderfully made article compared with the
light and symmetrical modern weapon of attack, but
served to carry the Doctor to victory.

Like all enthusiastic mountaineers, he was keen to
accomplish first ascents. Standing to his credit are those
of Mts. Hermit and Macoun of the Selkirk range. Mt.
Macdonald, one of the portals of Rogers Pass, was
ascended by him with the same object in view. Having
reached the summit in company with the Swiss guide,
Edouard Feuz, Senior, they built a cairn and claimed a
first ascent. The Doctor was standing beside a huge
block of rock in which was a hole filled with rain water.
Curiosity impelled him to plunge his arm into the hole
and at the bottom he found a rusty nail, material evi-
dence of a previous climb. At a mission meeting at
Chilliwack some time later, the Doctor told the story,
when one of the audience arose and stated that he could
inform him who had placed that nail on the summit of
Mt. Macdonald, as he and one other had made the ascent
during the construction of the railway through the
Rogers Pass.

Dr. Herdman last attended the Paradise Valley
Camp in 1907. His subsequent illness caused his with-
drawal from the activities of the Alpine Club. He was
a strenuous mountaineer, an intense lover of Nature in
her primeval fastnesses and a cheery and sympathetic
comrade around the camp fire. We loved him well, and
feel sure that his noble character and faithful perform-
ance of his life's work have received their due reward and
that his last and great ascent has placed him on the
summit of man's greatest hope and aspiration, where he
vvill realize true peace and happiness.

A. O. W.

Alpine Club Notes. 187

ALPINE CLUB NOTES.

ON EQUIPMENT.

A moTintaineer's equipment is of paramount importance, and
many sad accidents are directly traceable to an inadequate outfit,
[t is on record that men wearing patent leather shoes, silk socks
and light cutaway coats have successfully accomplished the ascent
of Mont Blanc, yet nothing but the most extraordinary luck has
saved them, and it would be just as foolish to base conclusions on
such cases as it would be to maintain that falling off a roof is a
harmless form of sport just because some lucky individual did,
some time or other, perform such a feat without breaking his neck.
No mountaineer worthy of the name will venture into the mountains
without a suitable equipment. In selecting this equipment, the
climber must bear in mind that it is often very difficult to predict,
on any given day, just what the conditions on a high peak will be.
He must always remember that even a slight accident may force a
bivouac and that the possibility of a quick climatic change is ever
present. It is, therefore, necessary to go prepared for the worst,
while reducing bulk and weight to a minimum. In that which
follows, the writer has endeavored to give such hints as a long
experience suggests, and he trusts that they may prove of use to
beginners.

Well-nailed boots are probably the most important part of a
climber's outfit. The sole should reach from toe to heel without
a i7'eak and should be about % " thick, projecting slightly beyond
the uppers, so as to protect the latter against sharp stones. There
Bhould be hardly any "waist" under the instep and the heel should
project slightly all around. A broad sole throughout materially
etiffens the boot and gives a welcome sense of security when stand-
ing in ice steps. The broad "waist" is of vital importance, since
it protects a sensitive part of the foot from injury by sharp stones.
The boot should fit closely at the heel and around the instep, but
entire freedom in all directions must be provided for the toes. If
the toes are at all cramped, they will freeze very easily. Pointed
boots are, of course, quite out of the question. The uppers should
be specially stiff and strong roimd the heel and should reach at
least two inches above the ankle. Porpoise leather shoe laces
threaded through eyes (and not caught in hooks) give the best
wear. Hooks are a source of constant trouble. The best possible
well seasoned leather should be used throughout. Swiss or Austrian
nails are the only ones worth considering. It is not an easy matter
to nail mountain boots properly but, while there is no one pattern
which has any very marked advantages, it is very necessary not to
place the nails too close together. A closely nailed boot has little
grip and is quite unnecessarily heavy. It is a great importance to
have a few nails imder the instep. It is a good plan to keep boots
for six or nine months in a dry, well ventilated place before using

188 Canadian Alpine Journal.

them. Much j^ease is as bad as not enough; it rots the seams.
Climbing irons or "crampons" are very useful for hard snow or
ice work, but should never be used on rocks unless the latter are
coated witli ice. The articulated Austrian patterns with 8 or 10
spikes are the best. Crampons sJiould fit the boots closely; other-
wise they will become a source of danger instead of a help. Hemp
straps should be used in fastening crampons to the foot and it must
be borne in mind tliat such straps contract very appreciably as
soon as they become wet. It is not necessary to be always provided
with crampons.

Thick woollen stockings are necessary; two pairs of such
stockings, or one pair of stockings and one pair of socks, should
always be worn. Those who, as a rule, do little walking during
the year will find horse-hair insoles a very pleasant and useful
addition. On long and difficult glacier tramps, two pairs of stock-
ings and an insole are almost indispensable, for it is often necessary
to move very slowly and to stand in ice steps for hours at a time.
The boots should, of course, be ordered to accommodate the thick
stockings and the insole, if one is worn. Elastic garters are
dangerous, use plain leather straps lined with flannel; thus secur-
ing friction between stocking and garter.

In the way of underclothing, light woollen knee drawers and
a woollen shirt of ample size are all that is necessary. All these
articles should, however, be of the best wool. An abdominal belt,
say of the Jaeger button pattern slioiild always he carried in the
ruck-sack. It is extremely light, takes little space and is of in-
calculable advantage in case of severe weather or a forced bivouac.

The climbing suit must be made of very strong and closely
woven material. Rough tweeds are unsatisfactory; they cannot
keep out a keen wind and tear easily. The material often used for
riding breeches and known as whipcord cloth gives very good satis-
faction. Whatever the material chosen, it is necessary that it
should be at least of medium weight and that both wai-p (called
"chain" in America) and woof ("filling" in America) be composed of
two or three distinct strands twisted together like the strands of
a rope. Inspection will show that in most materials, the warp
alone is composed of several twisted strands, while the woof is
composed of one strand only. Such materials do not wear well.
A very light coloured suit shows dirt and stains too rapidly; a
very dark one is very hot in sunny weather; a darkish grey or
brown is best. Knickerbockers are immeasurably superior to
trousers and have now been universally adopted. The riding
breeches pattern is quite unsuitable, although smart. The old'^
fashioned, baggy knickerbockers is the proper garment, it should
have plenty of overhang at the knee to allow perfect freedom, of
movement. A somewhat long knickerbocker is also very useful in
that it can be undone at the knee, where it must be fastened with
strap and buckle and not with elastic, and stuffed into the gaiters
when tramping through deep snow. It is essential for tlie knicker-
bockers to reach well up above the waist, thus giving good protec-
tion to the abdomen. Belts are not to be recommended, suspenders
should be worn instead. The knickerbockers should be lined with
Jaeger wherever linings are usually used. An ample double seat
(not of the small bicycle pattern) is necessary. Hip pockets should
be avoided, a deep ticket pocket with flap on each side is very useful.

Alpine Club Notes. 189

The opening for each side pocket should be horizontal and must
have a flap. A waistcoat of the usual pattern is useful in travelling,
but can be safely discai'dea on an expedition, a light woollen sweater
advantageously taking its place.

A Norfolk coat overlapping by two or three inches on the chest
and lined throughout with light Jaeger material is most serviceable.
The collar should be deep, so as to give good protection when turned
up and must button in front when so used. Straps on the sleeves
near the wrist are very useful in cold, Avindy weather. The coat
must fit loosely and allow the arms to be moved quite freely in all
directions. It is a good plan to provide slits at the side of the
coat (say about the middle of the watch pockets in the vest)
through which the belt can be passed and then buttoned underneath
the coat, thus keeping same in place, when the latter is not buttoned
in front. The belt must be securely sewn to the coat; otherwise, it
will surely be lost. Two deep, outside side-pockets, two large inside
breast-pockets (for maps) and a deep and wide inside "game" pocket
extending over the whole width of the back are necessary. All
pockets should be lined with Jaeger and all outside pockets should
have flaps. A deep inside watch pocket is very useful. The ooat
should be of medium length only.

A useful sort of hat is a broad brimmed soft felt. It gives good
protection against the sun, is light and can easily be tied down with
a handkerchief, or the like, when necessary. A stout and reliable
hat guard should always be carried. The inconvenience of losing
a hat is a small item compared to the risk run by anyone who
attempts to save his hat when in a difficult position. The necessary
movement must be sudden and may, therefore, cause the person to
over-balance; yet the natural tendency is to make such a movement,
unless entire confidence can be placed in the guard. A light woollen
muffler should be carried on high peaks. A woollen cap or hood in
the shape of a helmet with a small opening for the face and
reaching down to the shoulders should always be carried. Such
caps are known in Switzerland as "passe-montagne"; they can take
the place of a lost hat and are invaluable in a snow storm, when they
should be worn under the hat. They also give first-rate protecti;^n
at night. Choose a large one, one that fits tight will give little
protection.

A good ice axe is, of course, a necessity and most amateurs
will be well suited with an ordinary Joerg (Zweiluetschinen) axe.
Anyone vdshing to do all the step cutting liimself will select his
axe a little more carefully. The proper over-all length for a six
foot man is 40 to 42 inches. The shorter the shaft, the less help it
will be in descending. The longer the shaft, the more it will be
in the way when cutting steps. An expert relies little on his axe in
descending and can afford to use a shorter one. The weight of the
ma,n determines the thickness of the shaft. The weight of the
shaft being thus settled, the head must be of such a weight, as to
insure a proper balance. The centre of gravity, when the axe is
held horizontally, should be at a point located about % of the total
length from the head. Use as light an axe as your weight will allow
and see that the pick end is very long, some 8 to 9 inches. This ia
very important and is of great help when cutting down steep ice
slopes.

190 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Slinga of the ordinary pattern are most unsatisfactory. They
are easily lost and must be either removed or hacked to pieces when
cutting steps; furthermore, they do not secure the axe when cutting.
The accompanying illustration shows a form of sling, which the
writer has used for many years and which has proved satisfactory
in every respect. A brass ring is adapted to slide freely up and
do^vn the shaft. To this ring is attached a strong leather thong
or the like and a leather or metal stop fastened to the shaft of the
ice axe, near the bottom, prevents the brass ring from sliding off.
Tb.e noose of the thong is slipi)ed over the wrist when the axe can
be held in any position without removing the throng from the wrist.
Step cutting with one hand becomes quite safe and even if the axe
is wrenched out of the hand it cannot get away. The climber need
not make frantic, dangerous and useless movements in an attempt
to recover it. The axe can be safely let go at any moment in order
to attend to the rope or to secure a hurried hold. The axe shown
in the illustration is a well proportioned Joerg ice axe with a lot of
"drive." An old suspender is attached to the sliding ring, instead
of the leather throng above referred to. Wliile such a broad band
is less of a strain on the ^VTist yet no material but good leather
seems able to give sufficient wear.

Goggles are indispensable. Smoked glass goggles are unsatis-
factory, they either obscure the vision too much or they do not
sufficiently protect the eye from the actinic rays. Authorities
have lately declared that chrome coloured glass or the grey-green
Fienzahl glass is much superior for this purpose. The goggles
should be large, the glass itself measuring at least 1% by l%".

Gloves are indispensable and should always be carried. They
should be of very thick and strong wool with a separate partition
for the thumb but without fingers. Such gloves must reach well
up the arm at least 4" beyond the wrist. Ordinary rough cotton
gloves are most useful about camp and when climbing rough rocks.
Several pairs will be required for each season as these cotton gloves
give very little wear.

Spiral puttees are smart and convenient but they are not
satisfactory for long snow tramps. They answer the purpose
sufficiently well for Canadian conditions. A good plan is to have
them hemmed with some suitable and strong material after wear-
ing them once or twice. The disagreeable fraying will thus be
entirely stopp€>d. If wound on very tight such puttees impede the
blood circulation, if put on loose they quickly come undone particu-
larly if the calf is at all pronounced. For long snow tramps or for
winter wear gaiters are best. A combination of the Chamonix
gaiter and the puttee is very satisfactory for it combines the
advantages of both while avoiding most of their disadvantages.
It is important to carry two extra, pairs of stockings on long ex-
peditions. If a bivouac becomes necessary the dry pairs should be
put on before settling down for the night.

Provisions and personal belongings are best carried in a
"Rucksack." A number of light linen bags are most useful for
separating and preserving provisions. People with a sensitive skin
will do well to rub the face and neck with zinc ointment before
venturing on snow or glacier. Sunburn is sometimes very painful
and often causes fever.

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Alpine Club Notes. 191

A fifteen or twenty-yard, ten-millimeter rope is sufficient in
most cases for two climbers, provided the rope is of first class make.
Three climbers would use a thirty-yard twelve millimeter rope.
Dry your rope as soon as possible, but dry it slowly, stretch it
well and put it away in a dry, well ventilated place. Do not leave
a rope to dry for long on rocks and in a very hot sun.

It is thought that the principal articles of a mountaineer's
equipment have now been briefly discussed. It is, of course, im-
possible to give directions which will apply to all possible expedi-
tions but it is thought that a climber provided with the outfit here
described will be suitably equipped for any ordinary expedition in
the Canadian or European Alps. For short climbs, the outfit can
be considerably reduced with absolute safety.

VAL. A. FYNN.

HINTS ON THE USE OF THE ROPE IN MOUNTAIN

CLIMBING.

In the sport of mountain climbing the rope is one of the most
important articles of equipment and, if properly used, is an absolute
necessity to the safety of the climbing party, while it is a distinct
source of danger to all if improperly handled, either through
ignorance or carelessness. The following hints are given to inex-
perienced climbers therefore, and while, like any other sport,
mountain climbing cannot be learned out of books, I hope that they
may be of a little service to some of the newer additions to the
quickly increasing ranks of climbers in Canada.

It is presumed that the party is equipped with a proper rope,
of a length suitable to the size of the party and the nature of the
work to be done, it being a Beale's Alpine rope of three strands
of manilla hemp, with the thread of red worsted running through
it, which is the only proper climbing rope made. The first item to
be attended to on reaching the point where it is necessary to put
the rope on is to see that this is done properly. There are three
principal things to be looked after in connection with this, as
follows: —

First. — To place the party in the proper order. A discussion of
what this order should be is imnecessary here, but it might not be
out of place to say that on guideless climbs, which I hope will soon
become fairly common among the members of the Alpine Club of
Canada as our experience and knowledge of climbing increases, the
best man should be chosen as lea-der, to go first on the ascent and
last on the descent, and once he is settled on for the position his
word should be law until the descent is finished. As, he is presumab-
ly the best and most experienced climber of the party he should
issue his orders firmly and the others must obey him promptly and
cheerfully, even though they may not be in perfect accord with him
at all times. A disorganized party is always in danger, and when
once the leader has decided on a certain course of action his leader-
ship must not be questioned. Of coiu-se, it is not intended that the
other members of the party should be debarred from offering a
suggestion or that the leader should be above accepting one, but
when one is offered the matter of whether it is or is not to be
acted upon must be left to the leader to decide. The position of
the rest of the party is of minor importance, except that one who

li>2 Canadian Alpine Journal.

has had pxperience and wlio lias a pood bump of locality should be
placod last, as he will be on the lead on the descent.

^'•■(■f>H(/ — To place the jmrty at proper intervals on the rope.
These intervals sliould be equidistant, except in the Citse of that
between the leader and the second man, whidi should be a few feet
preator than tlie rest. This will often afford him a better opportun-
ity of selecting safe anchorages from which to assist the ascent of
the others in the party. What the exact length of the intervals
ehould be varies according to the nature of the climbing to be
encountered, and no definite distance can be laid down for it.

Third — To see that the rope is properly tied. — The bowline is
preferable for the end men, and for the inteiTnediate ones the
"noose" is excellent, as once learnt it is easily and quickly tied, is
easy to slip to the proper tightness around the waist and is perfectly
secure. It is also easily untied, even when tin* ro\w is wet and slifl.
However, the priiK'i])al thing is to make sure that the knots are mfc
and that they cannot slip.

We will now suppose that the party is roped and ready for the
climb. It must always be remembered that if one climber slips
nothing serious is likely to happen if every member of the party is
doing his duty, while neglect of duty may have serious results.
The closest attention to the business in hand is therefore necessary
and vigilance must never be relaxed. Admire the scenery while
resting in a safe place, but not at any other time. As the late
A. F. Mummery so impressively puts it "Among the mountains, as
elsewhere, 'the unexpected always happens.' It is the momentary
carelessness in easy (?) places, the lapsed attention, or the wander-
ing look that is the usual parent of disaster. The first lesson the
novice has to learn is to be always on his guard, and it is one the
oldest climber rarely fully masters."

However, I shall now leave generalities and deal with the use
of the rope, first on rocks and then on ice and snow.

Everyone should look after and he responsible for the portion
of the rope between himself and the man ahead. This will place
a definite duty on each one and will leave the leader free to select
the best course and pick out good hand and foot holds.

On face icork and difficult traverses only one should move at a
time, and the others should be prepared to hold him in the event of
a slip. After having attained a safe anchorage the leader will belay
the rope, if possible, and then assist the others by pointing out the
holds, keeping up the slack of the rope, and even, if necessary using
it to assist them, they to move tinder his directions and only one
move at a time.

Great care should be taken, when assisting a man with the rope,
to put only the actually necessary strain on it. Otherwise harm
may be done by pulling the climber from his holds, and there is the
certainty of making him sore in at least one, and in perhaps two
senses of the word.

When it is necessary to assist a climber by pulling upwards on
the rope get as directly over him as possible. A sidewise pull will
hamper the pulled one to a greater or less extent and may even be
dangerous, by pulling him from his holds.

When paying out the rope to the man ahead keep it clear of
cracks where it would be possible for it to jam. If allowed to jam
it may result in the climber getting a distinct jerk which might

Alpine Club Notes. 193

cause him to lose his balance. If it does get jammed, in spit« of
your care or because of want of it, give him sufticieat notice to pre-
vent him from being jerked.

Keen the portion of the rope under your care aicay from loose
rocks. These loose rocks are one of the greatest souix^s of danger on
a mountain, and if one is disturbed it may cause injury to one of
your own party or of a following one.

Always make use of projecting rocks for belaying pins. When
paying out the rope to the man ahead it should, when possible, be
kept behind a knot or projection of rock which would take the
strain of a jerk orf the following men in the event of the man ahead
slipping. A rounded rock is preferable for this, but always make
use of one of some kind when within reach, after having made sure
that it is seciire. This practice should also be followed when mak-
ing a difficult traverse and all members of a party should be on the
lookout for suitable points for the purpose.

Do not put all your faith on the rope, nor look on it as a sure
preventative of accidents. It will not prevent a climber from slip-
ping nor a loose rock from breaking away if you put your weight
on it. It is only intended to lessen the chance of serious damage if
anything does go wrong. Climb independently of the rope as much
as' possible; on a perfect climb the rope would, while worn, never be
called into use.

Test the rope at frequent intervals, particularly before trusting
your weight to it. I have known a rope to be injured by a falling
rock, so that only a portion of one strand was left whole, and yet,
though the cut was within six feet of me, there was no sign of any
damage having been done until fully ten minutes afterwards.

When a party is moving steadily carry a small loop of rope in
one hand. This will prevent the pulls which will otherwise be felt
on account of diflferent members of the party moving at different
speeds. It will also take up some of the slack and lessen the chance
of the rope being cut by sharp rocks or of becoming entangled
among your feet.

When making a traverse where a slip might prove serious do
not allow any slack to hang in the rope. If this rule is neglected
and a slip occurs the inevitable jerk may result very seriously.

When ascending or descending a steep couloir where loose rock
is lying keep as close together as possible. If this is done rocks
which may be dislodged can be arrested in their downward course
before gaining a dangerous momentiun.

On snow or ice the same care is necessary as on rocks, but
somewhat different rules apply at times, and we shall now deal with
some of them.

Use the rope on a dry glacier, if crevassed. A slip on the edge
pf a crevasse is always possible, and if the rope is not in use may
prove serious.

Always use the rope when on a neve. There is no exception to
this rule. Snow may mask dangerous crevasses and yet not be
strong enough to carry a person. Crevasses are generally indicated
by a slight concavity in the surface of the snow, which is of a some-
what darker shade than on the ioe, but it is possible to overlook
one, in which case one of the party may break through.

Before jumping an open crevasse make sure that there is
enounh slack rope behind you to allow yon to reach the opposite

li*4 Canadian Alpine Journal.

side. Tlii8 may seem too obvious a rale to be given, but I have aeon
it overhxikod.

Never travel over a glacier with a party of Icsx than three. If
one falls into a orcvitssf anoliuT win hold him up, but it is very
diftu'ult, if not imi)ossiblo, for one man to pull another out. The
same friction on tlic ed^e of the crevasse which makes it easy to
prevent a man from slipping further down prevents the pulling of
him up. If two or more are on top it is a comparatively easy
matter, especially if the handle of an ice axe is laid close to the
edge for the rope to slip on.

// one of a party falls into a crevasae raise him by pulling on
the rope from one side of the crevasse only. If the rope is pulled
oil from both sides there is a certain amount of effort wasted in an
incipient tug-of-war.

When ascending or descending a steep snoic slope pass a loop
of the rope around the handle of your ice axe and stick the point
of the handle hard into the snow at every step. The friction of the
rope around the handle will greatly assist in arresting the progress
of anyone who slips.

When crossing a neve keep all slack out of the rope. You
should always be prepared to take a strain on the rope and if this
is properly watched a per:=on who breaks through a snow bridge
will be checked before they go down further than their waist and
will be able to assist in getting themselves out.

When it is nacessary to cross a steep snow or ice couloir where
steps are necessary let the leader go to the full length of the rope
by himself to cut the steps. As many of the party as are necessary
to secure his safety can hold the rope while on good footing.

Do not lean towards the bank when crossing such a slope. If
you do so you are liable to overbalance and fall against the slope
and are also certain to lose your footing. Stand perfectly straight ;
it is not only safer but is easier.

After coming off the rocky portion of a mountain, tchere it has
been necessary to unrope to cross the bcrgschrund, re-rope before
crossing the neve. This is following the rule already given to never
cross a neve without using the rope.

The above rules are almost entirely confined to the use of the
rope, as a full list of rules to be observed while climbing would fill
a book, but in addition to the above a few short additional rules
are given which should always be remembered by climbers. They
are as follows: —

Pay close attention to your equipment. See that it is of the
best quality and in perfect order. This includes your boots and the
nails in them. Never climb with darned stockings if you can avoid
it. A climber, like a soldier, is only as good as his feet.

When on an ascent always be on the lookout for the means of
descent. To quote Mummery again, "If a place cannot be descended
it should not be ascended. If it is, the result may be that the party
rr^ay be forced into difficulties from which they have neither the
time nor the ability to extricate themselves."

Do not attempt a difficult place where at least one good anchor-
age cannot be obtained within the length of the rope. A slip on
such a place will mean disaster for the whole jiarty, and if such a
place is met with a party is not justified in attempting it.

Alpine Club Notes. 195

Never attempt a difficult climb except when the mountain is in
(jood condition. It is always bad during a storm and for at least
two days after.

Never attempt a climb in bad weather. And if a storm should
come on, even threaten, during a climb turn back at once and get
to safe ground as quickly as possible..

Never allow more than one of a party on a doubtful snow bridge
at the same time. If this rule is observed there is only a chance of
one breaking through, and this chance is much less than if more
than one are on it.

Never jump on a snow bridge. Cross it as carefully as possible,
so as not to jar it. There may be others to follow you and you may
need it on your rettu-n.

// you shoidd happen to partially break through on a snow
bridge distribute your weight as much as pcssible on top of the
snow. Throw yourself forward so as to assume a lying position,
with your arms spread out and your ice axe flat on the snow.

Remember that snow bridges are likely to be much weaker in
the afternoon than in the morning. The cold dui-ing the night will
have tightened them up by morning, but the morning sun will have
weakened them by noon. Therefore, it is not safe to assume that
because a bridge carried you in the morning it will carry you in the
afternoon.

Approach and cross crevasses as nearly at a right angle as pos-
sible. This will keep all of the party except the one actually cross-
ing as far from from them as possible.

Eat and drink as much as possible when climbing. This 13
necessary to prevent your vitality from becoming low and should
be done even if you have to force yourself to do it. The drink
sliould not be ice water.

Retain a reserve of strength and do not overtax yourself. A
night spent on a moimtain because one of the party has given out
is not a pleasant experience.

Have sufficient clothing with you to protect you in emergencies.
You are liable to meet with cold and stormy weather at any time
on a mountain. j . • j

Take an extra supply of food tcith you. You may be detained
beyond the expected time and himger does not add to the delights
of a night spent on a mountain.

Make sure of your hand and foot holds before putting your
weight on them. A slip may mean disaster to a whole party, and,
as it is not excusable, is always a thing to be ashamed of, even if
without serious results.

Avoid places that are liable to be swept by avalanches of rock,
ice or snow, especially in the afternoon. An avalanche of any of the
above travels with incredible speed and seldom gives any warmng.
Do not glissade down an unknown slope. You do not know a
snow slope in the sense meant in this rule unless you have travelled
over it within a few hours previously.

Do not drink the melted water found flowing over the surface
of a glacier. It contains a large amount of fine, sharp rock in sus-
pension, which is liable to cause trouble later on.

Avoid the use of stimulants while climhino. except m cases of
emergency. The stimulation is bound to be followed by correspond-
ing relaxation.

IW Canadian Alpine Journal.

KEKP YOUR ICE AXE WITH YOU. Yoii may need it before
you {!fet lumu'. In i-oncliision, remember that, in the M'ords of h
lamoiis cliinlxT,

"IIo wlio climbs and comes away,

"Will live to climb another day,

"While he who is in elimbinfj slain

"Will never live to climb a^ain."

It is not probable that St. Paul was familiar with the sport of
mountain elimbin<i. but his words should be remembered by all
Himbers when he says "Look, therefore, carefully how you walk.
Trove all things; hold fast to that which is good."

J. P. Forde.

THE FIRST ASCENT AND TRAVERSE OF THE TRUE MT.

SCHAFFER.

1 sjxMit a week early in August, 1000, at the annual camp of the
Canadian Al])inc (.'lub at Lake O'PIara. ciijuying that incomparable
-pot and having some good climb^s. J-]ven the eliarni of Lake lx)uise
was not sufficient to prevent a return thither after the camp Avaa
broken, and so, with hopes of finding sometliing eatable left Mr. \V.
Symmes Richardson, of New York, and I again sought that spot,
which is so centrally located for many good climbs.

The Fates were propitious and we were made very con\fortable
by Mr. Mitcliell, the secretary of the Club, who was superintending
the clearing up of the camp. Of course, we had our eyes on a good
climb, one always does when knocking about in the Canadian
Rockies, but the intervening days must be filled with smaller ex-
cursions.

It was on one of these latter that we set out for Mt. Schaflfer.
During the camp week I had scrambled up to where a cairn is
percheil on the northwestern and lower end of a spur of the
mountain, named, quite erroneously on the sketch map, Mt. Schaflfer,
and could see no reason for calling this point the mountain as there
is a tower at least a thousand feet higher towards Mt. Biddle.
From the valley the true summit is not noticeable and, until one
has been well up on the face of either Ringi'ose or Hungabee, the
mass appears as a sloping spur of Mt. Biddle.

Three years previously Mr. Richardson had photographed this
peak from high on Mt. Ringrose and was aware of a considerable
tower cut off sharply on both sides from the main arete and it was
for this that we bent our energies. We soon came to a second cairn
further np on the arete marking a spot reafhed by a party from the
club a few days before. Here we were completely cut off by a deep
notch rendering further progress impossible without descending well
toward Lake McArthur. Having done this we began the ascent of
the main peak.

An interesting bit of rock work, quite comparable to the Mitre,
led us to the apparently untrodden summit, from which we had the
wonderful views here obtainable on a clear day. The three towers
of Goodsir loomed up above all else to the southwest offering a
challenge, which we later accepted. It seemed as if we could almost
touch tile black cirque of Biddle, while Hungabee and Ringrose were
superb.

Alpine Club Notes. 197

After building a stone-man we descended the face towards Mt.
Biddle until a vertical wall blocked our way. Apparently the only
way down was by a seventy foot chimney which, on account of the
rottenness of the rock, was taken rather slowly but without difficul-
ty. A glorious glissade down a couloir soon brought us to the
Biddle Glacier and the rest was easy.

ilALCOLM GODDAllD.

THE ALTITUDE OF MOUNT HUASCARAN.

In 1908 Miss A. Peck of U. S. A. claimed to have ascended the
north, lower summit of Mt. Huascaran in Peru. She made no
instrumental obsei-A'ations above what she considered to be an
altitude of 5,975 metres, 19,600 feet, bvrt, from eye-estimates only,
asserted that this peak had a height of at least 7,317 metres, 24,000
feet, and was thus the highest mountain of South America.

Believing Aconcagua to be the highest Andean peak, and
futhermore to test the truth of these assertions, I decided to have
a careful detailed triangulation made of the two summits of Mt.
Huascaran. Through the assistance of Messrs. Fr. Schrader and
Henri Vallot acting for the Societe Generale d'fitudes et de Travaux
Topographiques of Paris, an expedition was sent to Peni for me
under the direction of M. de Lanninat to effect this purpose.

Assisted by the Peruvian Government and favourable weather
M. de Larminat and his assistants were able to carry out this work
successfully between August and November 1909.

A base 1,600 metres, 5,248 feet, long was measured in the Rio
Santa Valley in the Black Cordillera at an altitude of 3,800 metres,
12,464 feet. This base was measured by means of a 50 metre, 164
feet tape of Invar metal. From two stations, one at either end of
this base, and from two others, the positions and altitudes of which
were determined by trigonometrical measurements from them, that
is from four stations in all, the positions and relative altitudes of
the two summits of Huascaran were fixed by azimuthal and zenithal
angles taken by theodolite.

In order to ascertain the true height of these stations above
average sea-level a progressive levelling was conducted from the
highest station, called the Garganta Signal, down along the mule-
path leading from Yungay by way of Quillo to the sea at the port
of Casnia.

The Garganta Signal is higher than the col where the path be-
tween Yungay and Casma reaches its highest point. The difference
in lieight between these two was ascertainea by triangulation from
the Garganta Signal to be 159 metres, 521.5 feet. From the col
down to sea-level at the port of Casma the levelling Avas performed
by means of the tacheometer. The altitude of the Garganta Signal
being thus established, it was an easy matter to fix the altitude of
the other three stations, from which the triangulation of the sum-
mits was made.

From two of these stations liom which it was visible, the
altitude of the church tower at Yungay was also established at
2,568 metres, 8,432 feet.

The average sea-level was determined by four double observa-
tions of two water-marks made at intervals of six hours ten minutes
between each. The agreement of these was satisfactory owing to

198 Camiilian Alpine Journal.

the small aiiiplitudo of the tido at Cnama. and also t-o the fortunate
ciii'iiiiist;in<.i's that the ubservalious were made at time of neap
tide.

The resiilt-; of these measurements show the height of the north
peak of lluasearnn to be 6,G50 meters, 21.812 feet, and tlie height
of the south peak 6.763 metres, 22,182 feet.

Fanny Bullock Workman.
17th Feb. 1910.

WINTER MOUNTAINEERING AT THE COAST.

In the past winter, although, naturally, little high mountaineer-
ing was done in the Rockies or Selkirks, a good deal of climbing in
the Coast Range was accomplished from Vancouver by members of
the A. C. C. and the Vanc/niver Mountaineering Club.

The mountains immediately to the north of the City, though
not alpine in character, rise from the sea level to altitudes varying
from 4500 to 7000 feet and in winter the snowfall above 4000 feet
equals that in the Selkirks. The beauty of these hills with their
rich forests and magnificent outlook over the lowlands, the sea and
the everlasting snows about Mt. Garibaldi is even more varied if
not so sublime as that of the higher ranges.

In winter especially they afford to the climber a splendid play-
ground in which to become proficient in the use of the rope and ice-
a.\e and to obtain an invaluable knowledge of snow conditions. The
cornices, which often become very large on the exposed ridges and
the avalanches which fall constantly in mild weather, form the chief
dangers to the unwary.

During the winter of 1909-10 nearly all the peaks within a day
and a half's march from Vancouver were ascended, the chief expedi-
tion being to tlie twin peaks known as the "Lions" (6500 feet).
This is believed to have been the first attempt to climb them in
winter and altli-ough they are sixteen miles from the city, six of
which were disposed of on the preceding afternoon, the firm condi-
tion of the snow and a moonlit night enabled the party to complete
the expedition in eighteen hours of steady going. Without ice-axes
the hardness of the snow and the steepness of the final 1500 feet
would have rendered the ascent impossible. An attempt by a second
party failed through lack of them.

In the afternoon these slopes were descended by a series of
splendid glissades which in ten minutes brought the party down
what had taken two hours to ascend in the morning.

The outlook from the top was superb and although a fleecy
blanket of fog covered the city and the flat country, Howe Sound
lay far below quite clear of mist and sparkling in the sun.

On other climbs snow-shoes played an important part as the
constant falls of snow seldom allowed a crust to remain long un-
covered. Skis were also employed but did not prove so useful.

Much more climbing would be done if there w-ere a few huts
built at convenient places among the hills, for at present, it is only
those capable of travelling far and fast who can reach the highest
and most beautiful summits. But much activity is being sho'^n and
the next few years will, it is hoped, see the construction of these
shelters.

B. S. Darling

(9"^

o-^

Alpine Club Notes. 199

REVELSTOKE MOUNTAINEERING CLUB.

A copy of the annual report of the Revelstoke Mountaineering
Club has been received from the Secretary, Mr. J. P. Forde. It shows
considerable activity by that body.

During the summer months the Club, assisted by the City,
built a substantial log chalet on Mt. Revelstoke and furnished it
with a stove, cooking utensils, etc. The accommodation thus af-
forded is much appreciated by members spending holidays in camp on
the mountain.

WMle no actual movmtaineering was done by the Club as a
body, individual members did a very creditable amount of high-class
work as the following partial list shows: —
R. R. Copeland— First ascent of South Albert Peak; attempt on Mt.

Sandford.
Rev. J. R. Robertson— Mts. Huber, Habel, Daly, Balfour and

President.
W. A. Alldritt — Mts. Huber Habel, Balfour, South Albert Peak, and

first ascent of North Albert Peak.
G. L. Haggen — First ascent of North Albert Peak, South Albert

Peak.
J. P. Forde— First Ascent North Tower Goodsir, first ascent Mt.

Victoria from south, second ascent Mt. Biddle, Mt. Mackenzie.
The membership of the Club is forty-eight, a number that will
doubtless be largely augmented during the coming summer. A
grant of one thousand dollars to be spent on building trails and
shelters to assist the programme of the Club has been promised by
the Minister of Public Works for the Province.

The report vigorously calls attention to the necessity of a
reserve being placed upon the land and timber on Mt. Revelstoke
and that steps be taken to prevent the unnecessary destruction of
timber by camping parties.

CROWSNEST PASS

We have had our attention called to the fact that the origin of
the name "Crowsnest Pass" is wrongly given on page 108 Vol. 1, No.
1, Canadian Alpine Journal. There it is attributed to Mr. M.
Phillips, of Elko, B. C. Mr. Godsal, of Cowley, writes to us that the
name is anterior to Mr. Phillips, and appears on Palliser's map,
published in the fifties. Mr. Godsal says that he was informed by
Lee, an old-timer man-ied to an Indian wife, and therefore in touch
with their traditions, that the Blackfeet Indians, who do not as a
iiile go near the mountains, made a slaughter of the Crow Indians
near where the town of Frank Uiow is, getting them into a "nest,"
or coiTalling them. The Rev. John McDougall, whose knowledge of
the country is profound, says, however, "The Indians have always
spoken of the 'Crowsnest Pass,' because on this trail through the
mountains there was a nest which was occupied annually by crows."
So the matter stands.

[The Canadian Alpine Journal does not hold itself responsible
for the opinions of its contributors, but is always eager to verify
their statements. The varying accounts of the origin of the name
given above are interesting and also indicate the difiiculties often
experienced in arriving at the ultimate facts — Editor.]

2(X) Canadian Al^^'mc Junrnal.

REVIEWS

TWO NOTABLE ALPINE BOOKS.

No Tiiorc iiuiwrtont contribution has been made to Himalayan
literature, perhaps to the whole body of Alpine literature, than Mr.
A. L. MummV interesting volume, "Five Months in the Himalaya.'"
Though avowedlv written for mountaineers, Mr. Mumm has suc-
ceeded in prwlucing a book that will appeal to otlier classes of
readers: such as those who are curious about distant places but wlu)
refuse to travel, or who, for various hard-and-fast reasons, are un-
able to go beyond their own province or country. As for mountain-
eers, they will read it with avidity. Though a mountain climber
may not" be a bookman in Lowell's sense or be known as a reading
person at all, yet he reads alpine books, and gathers a shelf of them
as he i^ able. Out of one such volume, there may be moimtaineermg
i.ssues beyond computation. The "five-foot-shelf," recommended by
Harvard's Ex-President, is not complete without at least one volume
representing this branch of modern English Literature, which is in-
deed a debtor to mountaineering.

"Five Months in the Himalaya" is a record of three months and
more spent in the unknown Districts of Garhwal and Kumaon in
the very heart of the Himalaya; and of six weeks in Kashmir. The
party, an eminent one in alpine circles, consisted of Dr. T. G.
Longstaff, Major the Hon. C. G. Bruce, m. A. L. Mumm and three
notable guides, one being Moritz Inderbinen who accompanied Mr.
Mumm to the A. C. C. Camp and later to Mt. Robson, last summer
Indeed in the Himalavan expedition Inderbmen was "a personal
luxury " He is a type^ of the craft to be perpetuated, if that be
possible, in these growing democratic times; his devotion to his
master is of the strong, deep feudal sort, a devotion fast disappear-
\n^ among the serving class. In this book he appears and reappears^,
bolh in the text and in the beautiful photographs. "Before I had
finished photographing, Inderbinen appeared, following me like a care-
ful hen after a missing chicken." And the master too, is always mind-
ful of his guide. But you may look in vain through the whole seventy-
five illustrations for a sign of the author other than the sign that he
composed the picture and squeezed the bulb. His talent for selt-
eflfacement is only exceeded by his fine faculty of descriptive prose
narrative and of simple though luminous Nature descriptiom Mr.
Mumm has undoubtedlv a sense of the morality of the Nature
pa«sacre No descriptive writing is quite so difficult or so fraught
with the temptation of the "purple patch" as that of alpine descrip-
tion "O the little more, and how much it is," of the ridiculous.
A horror of this, I feel sure, is as a stimulus to that fine and beauti-
ful restraint which marks the descriptions of many great English
alpine writers. Nothing so palls upon the genuine lover of moun-
tains as fulsome writing about them; and he uses his vocabulary
with a nice discretion, aiming to make a good, accurate, concrete

Rcviezvs. 201

representation of the picture as he has seen it with his own eyes.
This is true of Mr. Mumm, and he lias succeeded in bringing before
tlie reader his view of the panorama of the upper Himalayan world.
Here is a little bit of description in the narrative that shows a scene
with striking accuracy as the accompanying illustration bears wit-
ness. Before seeing the photogravure, the whole scene was as plain
to my inward eye as our own Ten Peaks above Moraine Lake: "I
was particularly interested in a beautiful semi-circular bay which I
nicknamed the Aiguille Cirque, and which positively bi'istled with
dark spires and pinnacles; a glacier descended at an extremely steep
angle down the middle of them, and, spreading over the fl.oor of the
bny. joined the main ice-stream. We could here see some way
further up the glacier which curved to the west, but it disappeared
again round a corner to the right." He avoids the very appearance
of "gush" resisting many opportunities and, we may be sure, temp-
tations also, to do a passage of "fine writing." His first sudden vast
view of Himalayan Peaks, from the high Kauri Pass is described:
"Then a single stride, and I was gazing at a panorama that made
one catch one's breath. The day was clear and cloudless, and a
brilliant sun illumined every detail of a bewildering multitude of
mountains of every variety of shape and outline, but all alike bold,
steep and formidable, an army of Dents Blanches, Aiguilles Vertes,
and Schreckhoms. This was the first overwhelming impression;
after trying to absoi'b the general etfect of the scene, one turned to
the map for particulars * * * * ;but then came a confused and
confusing crowd of peaks, extending eastward in what seemed to
be a solid mass, till they were brovight to an end by the great trench
of the Dhauli sweeping round to the north. The valley of the
Vishnu showed as a mere dark cleft, running up in the direction
of Kamet, which st>ood commanding and dominant far away in the
background." Nor does he forget to record Inderbinen's impression.
"He too was intoxicated with the scene which he talked of for days
afterwards. He was busily engaged, partly in sizing up the peaks
in front of him, professionally, and coming to the conclusion that
they were, one and all, uncommonly diflBcult, and partly in recon-
structing his idea of the the Himalaya." I wish I could have heard
Inderbinen's slow remark of amazement: "I did not know there
were so many mountains in the world."

"Five Months in the Himalaya" will, for many years to come,
be invaluable as a guide for climbers in the remote fastnesses of
Garhwal and Kumaon. For the book is, first and last, a book of
practical information. Its central point of interest is the conquest
of the Trisul, a mountain about 23,406 ft. above sea, and the high-
est peak then attained by man. Of the three who had set their
affections on that summit, only Dr. Longstaff attained, both Major
Bmce and Mr. Mumm being unfit by reason of illness. One chapter
is devoted to an "Attempt" in which Mr. Mumm reached a height
of 20,000 feet, when camp was made on a field of snow in a hurri-
cane. It is a vivid piece of narrative. Bruce, who was incapacitat-
ed by an abscess on the knee, had of necessity halted earlier in the
journey. The final and successful attempt was made by Dr. Long-
staff with the two alpine guides and one native. His story fills a
chapter in his own words. Concerning any disputes about the high-
est ascents on record, Mr. Mumm has one sentence which too ambiti-
ous climbers would do well to ponder: "Longstaff lays no claim to

202 Canadian Alpine Journal.

anv record and poos out of liis way. like a pood sportsman, to
establish the record of a predecessor." Indeed that noble spirit is the
spirit of the book throuphout, which is one for climbers of the
A C C. to own. It is to be hoped that Mr. Mumm will write an-
other on the less known mountains and icefields of the Canadian
\lps Hi^ second visit will provide him with ample data.

"Mv Clmbs in the Alps and Caucasus" by A. F. Mummery is also
a book 'for all such as handle the ice-axe or hope to handle it. And
for those who knew the author or even knew about him m the years
of his splendid alpine achievements and enthusiasm, it surely is a
volume to be handled with a certain tender affection. His name is
not unknown to us in Canada wlio may not know his fame as a
climber, Mt. Mummery being one of the plants first seen by Dr.
Collie from the summit of Mt. Gordon in 1897 and so named by him.
Ten years later it was conquered by a party of American students
led by two Swiss guides. One, I think, was Edoard, Sr. Mr.
Mumniery with two Ghurkas, met his death somewhere on the upper
part of Nanga Parbat, that sacred, magnificent and terrible mountain
m the Himalaya, still defiant, but nevertheless doomed to defeat by
some British climber, no doubt. Reading his inspiring pages, one
feels that the conquest was his by right; and hopes, somehow, it
may yet be discovered that the three reached the summit ere the
mountain had slain them. Mrs. Mummery, who writes the Intro-
duction to the last edition, quotes from the diary-letter which her
husband wrote durinp the fatal expedition. The last words \yritten
to his wife were: "Tomorrow I cross a high pass with the Ghurkas
to the Baldara Kiote Nullah. Hastings and Collie go round with
the coolies and stores. If the N. W. side of Nanga is easy we may
yet pull it off, but you will have a wire before this reaches you.
And the comment, dignified, austere, and meagre, is great wit,h grief :
"This letter bears no date; it must, however, have been written on
August 23rd. On August 24th, my husband and the Ghurkas were
seen for the last time." It is a word worthy the widow of the
mountaineer whose noble book closes with an utterance all too
prophetic. He has been emphasizing the importance of long and
patient and fearless practice, if a man would attain to gi-eat skill
in climbing, and he points out some of the rewards: He gams a
knowledge of himself, a love of all that is most beautiful in Nature
and an outlet such as no other sport affords for the energies of
youth; gains for which no price is, perhaps, too high. It is true
the oreat ridges sometimes demand their sacrifice, but the moiint-
aineer would hardly forego his worship though he knew himself to
be the destined victim." Old John Muir, another of the alpine
brotherhood, looking back over such dangers passed during explora-
tion on rock and glacier, wrote not long ago: "I have sometimes
felt that to meet one's fate on a noble mountain or m the heart ot
a glacier, would be blessed as compared with death from disease
or from some shabby lowland accident." , , , - +

This sacrifice on Naga Parbat would add a melancholy note to
Mr. Mummery's book, did the text make it possible. But it is so
robust, so courageous, so happy, so full of the wild joy of battle
with the mighty forces of high mountains, with such vigorous
love of life in it, that the morbid thought is far from you as you
read It is time that we cleared our mindB of cant concerning
mountaineering. "The love of living," cries Stevenson, "is stronger

Reviews. ' 203

in an Alpine climber roping over a peril." With perfect appropria-
tion Mr. Mummery, himself, declares a tnie mountaineer to be "the
noblest work of God." And the shade of Sir Walter would approve.

Mr. Mummery devotes eleven chapters to the Alps, two to the
Caucasus and one, the last in the book, to a brilliant though in
some respects, debatable essay on "the Pleasures and Penalties of
Mountaineering." The beautiful photogravure plates and illustra-
tions in the text are from various sources, including sketches and
photographs of Signor Vittorio Sella, Mr. Hermann Woolley, Mr.
Joseph Pennell and Miss Bristow. A very serious drawback to the
book is the lack of an index, and if I am ever fortunate enough to
own it I shall proceed to make one. Important as the illustrations
are, so also is the index, whether the reader be student or reviewer.
For such books as these become text-books for climbers and for
lovers of the mountains who, by reason of age or poverty or frail
health or other limitations, must be content to do their climbing in
the pages of a book. Young stalwarts who have mastered the
technique of this noblest of all the sports, spare your disdain. Heaven
itself may reckon these as genuine mountaineers, as Rabbi Ben Ezra
would have reckoned them.

On the first page Mr. Mummery recalls that sight of the Matter-
horn shining in the stillness of a moonlit autirmn night when the
passion for great mountains first stirred within him, a boy of
fifteen. And the reader knows at once he is in choice company. For
one thing, here is a climber who seeks the same summit again and
again, knowing well that one ascent is but an introduction to a
high mountain. "In my heart of hearts I Long for the slopes of
which I know every wrinkle, and on which each crag awakens
memories of mirth and laughter and of the friends of long ago. As
a consequence of this terrible weakness, I have been no less than
seven times on the top of the Matterhorn. I have sat on the sum-
mit with my wife when a lighted match would not flicker in the
windless air, and I have been chased from its shattered crest and
down the Italian ridge by the mad fury of thunder, lightning and
whirling snow. Yet each memory has its own peculiar charm, and
the wild music of the hurricane is hardly a less delight than the
glories of a perfect day." The chapter is mainly devoted to the
narrative of an ascent of the Matterhorn in 1879 by a new and dif-
ficult route, the Zmutt Ridge. Only one other known ascent was
made by this ridge imtil 1894 when Mr. Mummery, with a young
Swiss guide, accompanied the Duke of the Abruzzi and Dr. Norman
Collie over the same route. Several days later, Miss Bristow who
supplied the sketches and photographs mentioned, made the first
descent by this route, led by the same yovmg guide, Pollinger. Miss
Bristow is manifestly a nimble and courageous climber . In another
chapter she figures honourably in a troublesome ascent of the
Grepon when it was in very bad condition, owing to a week of
evil weather. She was the first lady to reach its summit, and
the climb was one of the most difficult then made by Mr. Mummery.
But he foresaw the day when the Grepon would go in the catalogue
as a lady's mountain.

Space would fail me for even a reference to these separate
cliapters dealing with expeditions in the Alps and Caucasus. The
last one, which is somewhat polemical, ought to be read by mount-
aineers everywhere. Only the knowing ones are capable of dis-

204 Ccnuuiiiiii .llpiiu' Journal.

ousainfT somo of its ])(>ints. Mr. Mtimnierv prc>]i<iiiiiils tlic llicory
iiiul tlefi'iids it skilfully that tlif rope is oftciior a liiiidraiu-e than a
help. In fact it is dan^rerous, and he would depreca-te the roping
to£rothpr of uiorp than two. As the arguniont is necessarily onipir
ieal. and l)eii\<; of the unknown company which scales the rock and
cuts the ice-stairway in iinairiiiation only, I am incompetent to form
Bu ojiinion. 1 do not forjjet. however, that Mr. Mummery's capacity
for niountaineerinor was the capacity of genius — and genius is a law
unto itself. But I am petting into waters beyond my depth. A
symposium on this subject would be of fruitful interest, and 1 hope
the Editor of the . Journal will take the suggestion. There are
mountaineers in plenty, experienced and distinguished, who, for
climbing's sake, would willingly contribute.

As I said, this climber was a genius; he gloried in the exercise,
and in a very real sense was "adequate to himself," not with
Goethe's stupendous calm but with the mountaineer's tumultuous
joy. Yet his advice and testimony are against the habit of climbing
alone. He knows whereof he speaks: solitary wanderings ought to
be confined within narrow limits on any dangerous mountain. Ten
chances to one, the solitary climber "will break his neck." For the
diifi'er who would be carried to the mountain-top "nursed and cod-
died" by guides, he has a scorn that is all but invective: " ♦ » ♦
a thing that is pushed and hustled up peaks by Swiss peasants,
and which is so wholly unable to take care of itself that it cannot
be trusted to sit on a crag unroped." On the other hand, to the
worthy aspirant, he gives the sober word of caution. Falling into
a crevasse he regards as pure carelessness, and he indulges in some
fine irony over this form of accident. I am afraid Mr. Mummery
found no place for patience and sympathy with the timid novice or
with the mere plodder. He was a brilliant climber who wrote his
record brilliantly, yet with that rare charm wliich holds both novic«
and plodder in thrall. E- P-

Report of the Hon. Secretary. 205

OFFICIAL SECTION

REPORT OF THE HON. SECRETARY.

Since the Annual Report of a year ago there is much to record
concerning the transactions and operations of the Alpine Club.

Executive meetings were held at the camp in August; also, on
November 3, November 10, (1909) January 31 and February 10
(1910). Owing to the great distances separating members of the
Executive Committee, attendance was possible only for Presi-
dent, 2nd Vice-President, Hon. Treasurer, Secretary-Treasurer and
one Adviser, all residing in Calgary. And to these gentlemen, to-
gether with chairmen of special committees, who conducted the af-
fairs of the Club, the remaining officers are deeply indebted. In
addition to much routine business by which the machinery of the
Club is kept in running order, the following pi'oceedings are recoid-
ed: Resolutions to secure a lease of more land that the present
holdings on which the Club House stands maj' be enlarged; to amend
the constitution, which amendments were since carried by vote of
the Club, and printed in the new hand book; that interest on Club
House debentures should be paid by placing it to the credit of an-
nual fees; that in view of the national and international value of
the work of the Club and of its potential activities in geographical
the geological science, the Federal Gk)vernment be petitioned for an
tnnual grant of $3,000; that in future no Journals be sent to mem-
bers in arrear for fees; that as soon as funds are available there
should be added to the Club House such necessary equipments as
savetrouglis, mosquito screens, stoop for kitchen door and floor on
cellar; that $100 be contributed to the heavy expenses incurred by
rhe Rev. George B. Kinney in his exploration and conquest of Mt.
Robson.

Most important in the revision of the constitution is the new
section providing for an office involving the actual labour of manag-
ing the Club's steadily increasing business, an office subject to the
Executive Board and whose tenure is unlimited. By the appoint-
ment to this office of the retiring President who is so eminently
qualified both in head and heart for the position, there is every
good prospect for a more rapid though still healthy expansion of
the Club and of its operations in exploration and discovery in the
Canadian Rocky Moimtains system. Indeed, with a permanent
director and a worthy annual grant from the Federal Government,
exploration might soon be pushed as far west and north as Mt.
Logan in the Yukon, the highest mountain in British North America
and the ambition of some eminent mountaineers. Your secretary
ventures to hope that the Federal authorities will make it possible
for this great mountain and its range to be explored under the
auspices of the nations. Alpine Club, that they will not permit its
conquest to be counted as a fresh "bag" by some climber from
foreign lands.

20(j Canadian .llf'inc Journal.

At this writinp, th« total membership is .V2:5, biit wlien the
members pither in annual meeting, it will prubiibly be considerably
more. The fjrades now stand as follows: Honorary, 10; Associate
IS; Life Active. 22; Ordinary Active, 27G; Graduating, 172; Sub-
ecTibing, 25. During our four years' existence, over GOO names have
been enrolled; but o\Ting to failure in qualifying, in paying annual
fees and to other sufficient causes the list has been very consider-
ably reduced. This process is necessary to the standing and growth
of the Club. On the other hand, the list of applications is greater
every year. It will be noted in the handbook that out of the 22
life members, nine ai-e members of the English Alpine Club, beside*
five in the honorary, and two in the ordinary active list. And that
members of the oldest and most conservative Alpine Club in the
world should seek membership in the youngest and very rigidly
democratic Club, is gratifying. For it shows a genuine and practical
interest, not only in the mountaineering regions of Canada, but in
the important work this Club is seeking to do. Also, we have
warmly welcomed to our membership those good climbers of the
newer American Alpine Club which stands for a strict prestige in
mountaineering achievement.

With a constituency extending throughout the Dominion, below
the Boundary and beyond the Seas, a method has been devised to
secure the solidarity of so scattered a membership: namely, to ap-
point committees in centres where the local membership is large
enough to warrant establishing a section of the Club. Vancouver
took the initiative, and Calgary, Winnipeg, Toronto, New York and
London (England) followed. The first-fruit of these committees
was the simultaneoiis anniversary functions in the various centres,
— dinner or reception as suited the circumstances of each section.
It is proposed, where feasible, to conduct the business of the Club
through the cliairmen and secretaries of these committees. And
the benefit of this method is obvious: a sustained active individual
interest in the Club's affairs will ensue.

Your secretary would earnestly ask leave to halt a moment
for a word concerning our financial obligations. There is still a
small debt on the Club House, whose value as an asset is great.
Many members purchased debentures by which the fund was raised
and some of these debentures have been generously returned, thus
providing the not inconsiderable nucleus of a sinking fund. But
fully 320 members have done nothing whatever towards building or
furnishing the Club House. That all might have the opportunity,
the shares were fixed at $10 each; and the debentures bear interest
at six per cent. It is not right that the majority of Canadian mem-
bers should suffer English and American members to pay while they
pay nothing, especially when we remember that a constitution for-
bids a place on the Executive Board to both English and American.
Nevertheless, some Canadian members have most liberally assumed
the heavier financial responsibilities. But it is not well for any
institution that these should be borne by a minority. Only where
all, or all who can, take a financial part is there perfectly healthy
growth. There is no need to labour this point. It is as true of
Clubs as of Churches. It has been privately pointed out, over and
over again, by members of this Club who are members of other
sporting and social clubs that the annual fee is remarkably low, that
it is not half aa high as the fees in many clubs of less importance.

Report of the Hon. Secretary. 207

Tlie aim in fixing it at five dollars was that the Alpine Club of
Canada should be in no sense a rich man's club.

The meet of 1909, beginning on the 2nd and ending on the 9th
of August, was the most successful of the whole series of success-
ful paeets which have been conducted by the President, nearly 200
persons being imder canvas during the week. That it proved so
was owing to three causes. First, the number of our early members
becoming expert on ice and rock has increased; second, the camp
wa.s set up on a spacious meadow imder the shadow of fully eight
eligible moimtains, according to the mountaineer's interpretation of
the word, and contiguous to many interesting passes and lakes — the
meadow itself having every advantage both of convenience and of
beauty in stream and forest and glacier and mountain peak; third,
and not least, was the presence of a group of British climbers —
among them eminent mountaineers — who were a very great help in
every day's climbing and in every evening's entertainment about the
camp-fire. We cannot oveiTate the importance of the attendance of
our British guests. Both in the day's work and in the evening's
play, they gave our young mountaineers a fresh impetus and a
new outlook. Their informing, inspiring and humourous speech,
when night brought tired climbers around the blazing logs, will not
be forgotten. "Twenty and thirty and forty years on," the young-
e.st of us shall hark back to nights under the stars or in fitful storm
on O'Hara meadow all around the camp-fire, so finely termed by a
lady member, "the altar and hearthstone of the Club." One of the
guests was so impressed with the mirth and fellowship of these
nights that he has adapted, for the camp-fire, an old Harrow song,
"Forty Years On."

The expedition led by the President to the Yoho Valley, and
the traverse of the Waputik Ice-field when seven mountains were
climbed, has also added an interesting bit of data to the history of
this Club; and the two expeditions to Mt. Robson, notably the
successful capture of that long-defiant peak by the Rev. Geo. B.
Kinney, his own third attempt. These enterprises which here call
for references only, are adequately recorded elsewhere in the
Journal.

In mountaineering it has been a prosperous year. Besides Mt.
Robson. first ascents were made of Mts. Pinnacle, Ringrose, Glacier
Peak, the Xorth Tower of Goodsir, and Victoria by the Huber route ;
second ascents were made of Mts. Deltafomi, Biddle, and the North
Tower of Goodsir; second and third ascents of Hungabee; and more
independent climbing of distinctly difficult mountains was accomp-
lished in the season of 1909 than in any season since the Club was
organized.. Another advance to be noted is the employment of an
Austrian guide by the Club. And for the present season a second
one has been brought over for the use of our own members. The
Club has also its official outfitters and guides of the valleys — the Otto
Brothers of Field, B. C, who are among the few outfitters left in the
mountains, of the whole splendid corps of half a dozen years ago.
Much might be said concerning the passing of the early type of
Canadian guides of the lower altitudes. It is the intention of the
Alpine Club to keep, if possible, these competent and trusty guides
Otto, who are adapted by nature and by training to the business of
outfitting and guiding. To them it has reeponsibilities other than
commercial.

lOS Caiiihiian Alf'inc Joiinial.

Dminj; the winter, (lie Prosiclpiit- mado a toiu' in the in1eieBt.s
"f file C'liil). li'cdiriuL,' ;iiui .^liow iii<j liis iiicturcs of iiiimiitaiii laiid-
scapi' in Ottawa, ^t^mlrcal, Kiiijijston, 'J'oronto, St. 'riionias, W'in-
nipejT luiil Ro<jina. i\lr. Wlioelor was greeted everywluMe with laifje
aiuiienet'8. imlieating liuw an interest in mountaineering is grow-
ing in t'anada.

iSineo tlie last .Tomnal was issued tlie death has occurred of Mr.
Hector (J. Wiieeier, l)rotiier of the PresicUnit and AssistaTit to the
riiief Mountaineer, an oHice held by liim from the Club's inoo{)tion.
liis death i.s a very great loss to the Club. As guide and man, Mr.
Wheeler had the respect and alTection of every one who came in
touch witli him. Strong and safe and readj% patient and kind and
gentle, he left the memory of a good man, a rare and lovable sj)irit.
On mountain or by camp-fire, none who knew him will forget.

The Alpine Club owes thanks to many, and espocially to the
retiring President for his zealous labour and supervision of its mani-
fold alTairs. Everyone knows it is to him a labour of love. .\nd
both in camp and Club House, the President's wife has been his true
helpmeet as hostess, chaperon and altogether the "right arm and
vpoon and necessarj' of life." Space would fail to acknowledge all
trifts and all kindness from many generous hands.

To the Legislature of Alberta and the Legislature of British
Columbia, our gratitude is deep for grants amounting to $1,000
each. To the Department of the Interior for permission for the
President and Vice-President Bridgland to attend the 1909 camp of
Lake O'Hara. To the C. P. R. &)mpany for special rates on the
railway and at hotels; and for tiie liberal loan of their Swiss guides,
our old and trusted friends, Edouard and Gottfried Feuz.

And finally, your secretary, in concluding the last annual report
which it will be her pleasant duty to write, would add a pers-onal
note. Much delicate consideration has been shown her by her
colleagues; her joy in association with the executive Avork of the
Club has been genuine; and her interest in the Alpine Club of Can-
ada will be abiding.

Respectfullj' submitted,

Elizabeth Parker.

Report of Librarian. 209

REPOKT OF LIBRARIAN.

Since the erection of the handsome Club House at Banff, the
Club's library has a permanent and roomy home. There are but
eighty-five volumes on the shelves — and we have many shelves.
There are also some dozens of Journals and publications, including
the exchanges of the Sierra Club, Alpine Club, Appalachian Club,
Mazama Club, Scottish Mountaineering Club, French Alpine Club,
Swiss Alpine Club, Austrian Alpine Club, Japanese Alpine Club, etc.

We have to thank Mr. A. L. Mumm for the gift of his valuable
book "Five Months in the Himalaya." This book is packed with
information and interesting photographs. Mr. A. M. Bartleet has
presented us with a copy of "Scrambles Amongst the Alps," by
Edward Whymper, without which no Alpine library is complete.

Mr. Godfrey Solly has kindly sent us two interesting l)ooks
"Alpine Ascents and Adventures" by Shultz Wilson, and "Above
the Snow Line" by Clinton Dent, and Dr. Bonar has sent us "Fort
Tarascon" and "Tartarin sur les Alpes," by A. Daudet.

Through the courtesey of the Survey of India, we have received
a copy of "A Sketch of the Geography and Geology of the Himalaya
Mountains."

We have Mr. Wilcox's "New Guide to the Lake Louise
Region." Mrs. Wheeler has given us Parry's Journal and
"Reminiscences Among the Rocks" by T. C. Weston. Prof. Macoun
has sent his "Catalogue of Canadian Birds," and from the Depart-
ment of Agriculture (Ottawa) we have "Farm Weeds of Canada."
We are indebted to the Department of Mines for a complete set of
"Reports of Geological Survey of Canada."

A book of excellent photographs of tlie O'Hara Camp was sent
us by Mr. Freeborn, and there is a set of Mr. Harmon's camp photo-
graphs. There are also enlargements of photographs sent by Mr.
Hermann Woolley, Mr. Howard Chapman and Prof. Walcott.

The Appalachian Club has most generously added the early
rare volume of their "Appalachia" to the library. This completes the
set — Vol. I to Vol. XII, inclusive, of which Vols. VI. to XI formed
part of the nucleus of our library and were also the gift of the
Appalachian Club.

Mr. Godfrey Darling has kindly placed in the library a num-
ber of standard novels.

Only two books have been purchased this year — Mummery's
great book "My Climbs in the Alps and the Caucasus" and the
Champlain Society's publication "The Logs of the Conquest of Can-
ada," by Wood.

The Fell and Rock Climbing Club has been added to our list
of exchanges.

Mr. Godfrey A. Solly has most generously presented the Club
with a complete set of the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal,
which is becoming increasingly rare.

Mr. Fritz Beck has kindly presented us with 1908 and 1909
volumes of the "Jahrbuch Swiss Alpine Club."

Mr. Stanley L. Jones has given a most valuable book to the
Club "Clarkson's Standard American Dictionary," and Mrs. Stanley

210 Canadian Alpine Journal.

L. Jones lias jjivon "With tlic World's Great Travellers," a work
of exceodiiip interest.

The following ia the list of additions to the library since the
1909 report: —

Presented by
Alpine Ascents and Adventures . . II Shultz Wilson Mr. Godfrey Solly

Above the Snow Line Clinton J)-nt Mr. Godfrey Solly

Scrambles Amongst the Alps Edward WhymperMr. A.M. Bartlett

Guide to the Lake Louise Region Walter D. Wilcox .Mr. \A'ilcox

Parry's Journal Mrs. Wheeler

Reminiscences Among the Rocks .T. C. Weston Mrs. Wheeler

Five Months in the Himalaya .... A. L. Mumm Mr. Mumm

Port Tarascon A. Daudet Dr. Bonar

Tartann surles Alpes A. Daudet Dr. Bonar

A Sketch of the Geography and Geology of the Himalaya Mountains
Col. S. G. Burrard, F R S., H H. Hayden, F. G. S.

Farm Weeds of Canada G. H. Clark Dept of Agriculture

James Fletcher
Appalachia Vol. I to VI (inclusive) Appalachian Club

Catalogue of Canadian Birds John Macoun .... John Macouu

c, . . r 1 James Macoun . . .James Macoun

Spirit Lake Heming F. Yeigh

My Chmbs in the Alps and Caucasus

rj^, r ,, ^ Mummery By Purchase

1 he Logs of the Conquest oi Canada

Wood By Purchase

(Champlain Society)

Novels:— 8 Volumes Balzac Mr. Darling

6 Volumes Marion Crawford .Mr. Darling

A IV- i- ■* '^olu^es Sir Walter Scott . Mr Darling

Album of O Hara Camp Photographs Mr Freeborn

Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal Complete

A , , r • ^ . . Mr Godtrey A. Solly

Annual Magazine Subject— Index 1909 Exchange

Jahrbuch Swiss Alpine Club 1908 and 1909 Fritz Beck

Clarkson's Standard American Dictionary Stanley L. Jones

With the World's Great Travellers Mrs. S. L. Jones

Respectfully submitted,
Jean Parker, Librarian.

Report of ipop Camp.

REPORT OF 1909 CAMR

211

Site of the Camp.

The fourth Annual Camp of the Alpine Club was held in one
of the most beautiful, if not the most beautiful spot m the Can-
adian Rockies, in a littie alpine meadow close by the glacier Lake
O'Hara. It was an almost perfect location: a grassy open, a quar-
ter of a mile long, hemmed in by forests of dark spruce balsam,
pine and fir with that very noticeable aromatic smell found m the
woods near tree line. Above, all around, showed clear against the
skv, the towering snow-clad heights of Victoria, Huber, Lefroy,
Hungabee, Biddle, Odaray, and, at a greater distance, Stephen and

Cathedral. , . ^^ . „„

The meadow was intersected by a number of small streams
which made the arrangement of the camp very easy. At the upper
end lav a tinv pond, aground which, in a wide crescent, were pitched,
with military precision, the bell tents of the gentlemen's quarters.
The pond was used for performing necessary ablutions and was
nicknamed by the lady me.ubers "Adonis Pool."

To the south across a belt of trees lay an open glade, carpeted
with heather and nicely sheltered. Here, in a symmetrical line, were
pitched the tents of the ladies' quarters, with those for the lady
guests in a little nook at the end of the row.

Still further south rose the large canopy under which were
grouped the cook's quarters, the dining tables, the tea tent, the
post oflfice and order board, and furnished the place of general as-
sembly In the open in front of the canopy were the oflRce and store
tents and the magic fire circle where nightly gathered these worship-
pers of the hills. ,, ^ ^ r .^ ^.^

Separated by another belt of trees were the tents of the gentle-
men guests and across the meadow, opposite the assembly canopy,
the camp of the "Men in Buckskin," the outfitters and packers of
"The Trail." In odd nooks and corners along the edge of the forest
might be seen the scattered white tents of those who preferred be-
ing under their own canvas.

During the day, the meadow, from end to end was a scene of
vitality and exuberance of spirits. On every side magnificent spec-
tacular views of steeply rising peaks, topped or faced with snow, met
the eye. Hanging valleys, whose floors broke off in precipitous
walls, rising one above the other, invited conjecture and subsequent
exploration ; an air of mystery was added by the scattered growth of
trees that clung to every spur, projection and crack presenting a
space not absolutely perpendicular. Delightful little lakes of which
O'Hara was the chief, sparkled like jewels in their settings of forest
and rock. Below the great peaks rose towers, minarets and aiguilles
lending a fine idea of immensity to the masses behind them. It
was a wonderfully impressive and attractive panorama and one
that would remain imprinted on the pages of memory's scrap book
for a life time.

212 Canadian Alpine Journal.

This year the Club camp was under its own ciinvaa, with the
exception of one lar^re tent at tlie railway base, wliic-)i was loancfl
by J. r. Forde, Resident Engineer of the C.P.R. at Revelstoke, and
was used for storing surplus baggage. In all, some sixty tents
were in use.

Hector, a Hag station on the Canadian Pacific was the railway
base. The camp, seven and a half miles distant by pony trail, was
ri'acltcd by a dfliLrlitfnl path up tlie valley of Cataract Creek flowing
from Lake O'Hara. It wound beside a rushing, rock-walled torrent;
then through an old brnle. brilliant with summer flowers; across tlio
debris of a huge rockfall; up and down through the cool green
forest of spruce, balsam and fir, with glimpses of the swiftly flowing
glacial stream now and again; along an old moraine and beside tlie
bbie-green Lake O'Hara. its surface broken by sparkling ripples,
scintillating in the sunlight; and finally over a timbered hog's back
to an open meadow and the city of white tents, looking as lirst seen
like a glimpse of fairyland — all green and yellow, white and blue.
The depot camp at Hector accommodated temporarily those arriving
by train too late to reach camp the same day. It was well patroniz-
ed and furnished a general base of supplies.

The following Alpine Clubs were represented: The Alpine Club,
England, The Scottish Montaineering Club, The Fell and Rock
Mountaineering Club, The American Alpine Club, The Appalachian
Mountain Club, The Alpine Club of the Netherlands.

Members of the following Learned Societies were present. The
Royal Society, The Royal Geographical Society, American Geograph-
ical Society, Geological Society, Entomological Society, Entomological
Society of America, Linnaean Society.

BRITISH GUESTS.

The Annual Meeting of the British Association for the Advance-
ment of Science had been arranged to open at Winnipeg on the 25th
of August. It was desired by the Alpine Club of Canada to extend
such courtesies as might be in its power to visiting members who
were interested in mountain regions from an alpine standpoint. An
invitation was, therefore, conveyed through the Executive of the
Association and the Executive of the Alpine Club, London. Twenty
acceptances were received and the entertainment of these guests ex-
tended over a period of three weeks, during which time all attended
at one time or another. First, they were received at the Club's
headquarters at Banff, where the new Club House had just been
opened. They arrived there on the 27th of July and remained until
the 1st August when a move was made to the O'Hara Camp. Tlie
Camp closed on August 9th and on that day w^e started our guests
upon a six-day expedition around the upper reaches of the Yoho
Valley, a valley comprising in the minimum of space the maximum
of alpine scenery. This expedition is referred to further on.

The guests who attended the Club House, the Camp at Lake
O'Hara, or the subsequent six-day trip were, including a party of
fourteen under the leadership of H. B. Dixon, of Manchester Univers-
ity, an old-time explorer and climber in the Canadian Rockies: —

'J./

Report of iqoq Camp. 213

H. B. Dixon, F.R.S., Manchester
Mrs. Dixon, Manchester
Miss Phyllis Dixon, Manchester
Mrs. C. J. tSpeuce, Cheadle
Godfrey Solly, Birkenhead
Mrs. Solly, Birkenhead
Miss Maclay, Hamilton
A. L. Mumm, London
Oscar Rohde, Birkenhead
L. S. Amery, London
G. Hastings, F.R.G.S., Bradford
E. F. Pilkington, Prestwich
Arthur H. Benson, F.R.C.S.I., Dublin
Mrs. Benson, Dublin

Edward Whymper, F.R.G.S., Teddington
E. F. M. MacCarthy, Birmingham
A. M. Bartlett, Birmingliam
Tempest Anderson, F.R.G.S., F.G.S., York.
' A. G. Priestly, London.

Miss M. Vaux, Philadelphia

THE CAMP FIRE.

One of the chief attractions of the camp — the altar of worship
in fact — is the camp fire. It is lighted on the evening of the opening
day and is not allowed to go out while the Camp lasts. During the
day it smoulders, but when the graduating and other climbs are over,
when the various expeditions have returned, when the evening meal
has given full satisfaction and the sun is sinking behind the snow-
clad giants in the west, then the camp-fire flares up and is soon
a glowing centre of genial warmth and good fellowship. Seated
around it in a wide circle may be found the entire population:
guests, members, officials helpers, not even excepting "the mascot"
of the camp — Baby Leggatt — the six months old daughter of Mrs.
Leggatt, who was cook for the "Men in Buckskin," the guides and
other members of the system.

An entertainment committee provided a good programme for
each evening and our guests kindly provided a chairman to act for
each night; and well they did it. Under their skilful guidance,
history of travel in distant lands, full of thrilling adventure and
good stories — particularly lion stories, — exciting accounts of
first ascents, songs, anecdotes, speeches and excellent recitations
made the time fly all too swiftly. Each such evening seemed a
fitting climax to a day of thrilling excitement, and the aches and
pains and weariness of first climbs were forgotten under the in-
fluence of the magic circle, while the aromatic smoke rose into the
thin frosty air and the stars twinkled aggressively above the un-
certain of the grey and white peaks showing mystically in the
bright moonlight.

One evening was made memorable by the address of the
veteran, world-famed mountaineer, Edward Whymper; an address
he had travelled more than ten thousand miles by land and sea to
deliver. It is here quoted in full: —

214 Canadian Alpine Journal.

"Friends. Canadians, Countrymen, lend me your ears, as
Shakespeare said. They shall not be taken away from you, I only
•want to get hold of them for a few minutes.

"We moot here on tlie common ground of love of nature and
love of freedom. Curiosity and interest have been expressed in the
Old Country in respect to your proceedings and the progress of the
club, and many in Europe, I am sure, would gladly have come here
if their engagements would have permitted.

Let me read to you a few passages from letters which have
come in. The first is from the Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge, who is
American by birth and English from association. In regard to
Alpine literature, he is considered to be the most learned and best
informed "Man of the Time." He says, writing from Switzerland:

" 'You flatter me in imagining that anything I can write would
be of any value as to the Canadian Rockies. I have never seen
them. I am a 'statesman,' but did not climb any hills therein,
though I was at school amid the White Mountains of New Hamp-
shire. However, so far as I can judge, it is about time now that
some one gathered together the threads of previous explorations
in the Canadian Rockies, so as to show what still remains to be
done, and to make known the claims of the fine mountain scenery
which exists in the whole area.'

"There, ladies and gentlemen, ia a nice little job for one of the
youngest members of the Alpine Club of Canada. It will keep him
well occupied all his lifetime.

"The next is from a man of science, from Professor Dr.
Thomas George Bonney, who is to be brought forward shortly at
Winnipeg as president of the British Association for next year.
He has been a member of the A. C. for a clear fifty years, and was
president from 1881 to 1884. This is what he says:

" 'For fully half a century my summer holidays have been
spent among the mountains. To them I believe myself indebted for
the health and strength which has enabled me to get through a
considerable amount of hard work and to be still as vigorous as
most men who have lived three-quarters of a centurj^ (That is
his age.) I have not been a lover of the Alps only from their
invigoration or for the grandeur and beauty of their scenery. They
have drawn me back and back again because they lead the dweller in
the lowlands into fresh fields of scientific interest. From the snow-
clad peaks and glaciers we can learn lessons which enable us to under-
stand the action of ice and the effects of denudation in past ages
of the earth's history very different from the present. From the
record of the rocks mountains possess inexhaustible interest. The
great hills speak in impressive tones. They are something like
splendid and costly books, which lead us to admire the beauty of the
illustrations while reading the story.'

"This is what the Bishop of Bristol, president of the Alpine
Club from 1905 to 1908, says:—

" 'I wish I could go with you to those dear Canadian Alpinists.
There are many marks of this present age, but we name two: (1)
A rebellion against conventionalities and (2) an appreciation of the
recuperative power of Nature. A chief charm of a mountain expedi-
tion IS— we have done for the time with conventionalities, we are
free children of Nature, let us go and seek our mother, and drink in

Report of ipop Camp. 216

from her pure white breasts all that is highest and best; and when
we come back to the life of the world, and its calls upon our mental
and physical powers, we find ourselves fit as no doctor's stuff put
in our poor, ill-treated stomachs ever made us; all mordid thoughts
and fancies cleared away, able to see that we and those around us
have only to be as a good God intended us to be. With sincere
regards for now forty-five years,

*G. F. Bristol.'

"That is what a bishop says. Now for a politician, who has
been my friend for forty-eight years. He was president of the
Alpine Club from 1899 to 1902. This is what the Right Hon. James
Bryce, His Majesty's ambassador at Washington, says : — 'I am very
glad to hear that you are going to join the summer camp of the
Canadian Alpine Club at the Continental Divide. They were good
enough to write me as an honorary member to come to the camp,
and I would most gladly have been there and joined in welcoming
you had it been possible for me to leave my duties at this embassy
for 'SO long.

" 'Will you please give my warm regards to my fellow mem-
bers of the club when you meet them, and say from me what you are
doubtless saying for yourself, how much we British Alpinists re-
joice in the growth and prosperity of the Canadian Club, and con-
gratulate our Canadian fellow subjects on possessing such a mag-
nificent region of peaks, passes and glaciers, which will occupy
their energy, and give scope for their skill and courage for many
a year to come. Sincerely yours,

James Bryce.'

"Other marks of interest have been shown in you and your pro-
ceedings. My bootmaker has sent a dozen of his cards and has ex-
pressed a desire to make the acquaintance of the whole of you.
Specimens of his work are on my feet, and in camp. The Alpine
Club rope maker of London sends samples, etc., and although he
does not wish to encourage suicide, he states that a person weighing
twelve stone may drop ten feet, and that the rope will not part com-
pany. Messrs. Burroughs, Wellcome & Co., of New York and
Montreal, send an Alpine medical outfit, and a tabloid photographic
outfit, as presents, and these and other things will be put up to
auction presently for the benefit of the clubhouse. I agree with all
that was said by my four friends, but much more can be said about
the mai-vels of the Rocky Mountains of Canada, where, amongst
other things, raspberries grow upon gooseberry bushes. This was, I
believe, first pointed out by the Rev. W. Spotswood Green in the
paper which wa.s published by the Royal Geographical Society —
that I will pass around.

"The ascent of a great mountain is inspiring. Below there is
gloom, while above there is glory. This stimulates the faculties
and makes one aspire. Most or all of us are familiar with these
words of Longfellow: —

"'The shades of night were falling fast
When through an Alpine village passed
A youth, who bore through snow and ice
A banner, with this strange device;
'Excelsior.'

2in Canadian Alpine Journal.

"A critic might say tliat this youth was foolish for starting
out at such a late hour, and that it would be more in accordance
with Trutli and Nature if the poem commenced:

•"The orb of day was rising fast."

"Don't let us be captious. Longfellow's meaning appears to
be, let our motto be: 'Onwards and Upwards,' and that would be a
good one for an Alpine Club.

"Ladies and gentlemen, live, live while you can. We're born
to live, but born to die. Unite prudence with courage. Take heed
to your steps lest you fall. Whatever you set your hands to do, do
it with all your might. Act well your part, there all the honour
lies.

"This, ladies and gentlemen, is the lirst, and it will be the last
occasion on which I sliall have the honour to speak to you. I came
out from Europe expressly for this meeting, and tomorrow I start
back. But, if unable to be with you in body, I shall, so long as I
live, be with you in spirit, and wish you success and prosperity."

The camp-fire inspired L. S. Amcry, of the London Times,
author of "The Times History of the Boer War," to an adaptation of
an old Harrow song, entitled "Forty Years On," to the bivouac of
the Alpine Club of Canada.

ALPINE CLUB CAMP SONG.
By L. S. Amery.

Forty years on when afar and asunder,

Parted are those who are singing to-day,
When you look back, and, forgetfully wonder

What you were like in your work and your play;
Then, it may be, there will often come o'er you

Glimpses of days when your pulses beat strong,
Dreams of the mountains shall float them before you.

Echoes of notes from our camp-fire song.

Chorus :

Follow up ! Follow up ! Follow up ! Follow up !

Hear it ringing again and again;

Tis the call of the heights to the plain,
Follow up! Follow up!

Oh the great days in the distance enchanted,

Days of fresh air in the snow and the svm;
How we rejoiced as we toiled and we panted —

Hardly believable forty years on.
Then, you will say, not a feverish minute

Strained the weak heart or the wavering knee;
Was the day hard? We were bound to be in it,

And neither the last nor the faintest were we.
Follow up!

F. \V. Fr,d,.,r„. Phot.,

THE PRESIDENT'S ADDRESS
Annual Meeting, at O'Hara Camp

;-^s!sq^E'~

F. W. Freeborn, Fhoto

ANNUAL MEETING, AT O'HARA CAMP

'■ nt, Phvto

THE HON. SECRETARY'S REPORT

Report of ipop Camp. 217

Forty years on, growing older and older,

Shorter in wind as in memory long,
Feeble of foot and rheumatic of shoulder,

What will it help you that once you were strong?
God give us summits to stir our endeavour.

Peaks to be conquered in earnest or fun.
Grant we mount eagerly, fearlessly ever,

Twenty and thirty and forty years on.
loUow up!

Now the great peaks watching silently o'er us,

Sentinel guards of our camp and our land,
Bid you remember the morrow before us,

Bid us take thought for the task we've in hand;
So from the camp-fire we must be going;

Wishing every comrade a pleasant good-night;
Soon on the summits the dawn will be glowing

We must be there to salute her aright.
Follow up!

It was truly pleasant to see in that brilliant circle many well
known faces from other lanas, who had been present at previous
camps, or were old visitors to the Canadian Rockies, noticeably: —
Prof. H. C. Parker, of Columbia University; George Vaux, Jr., and
Miss M. Vaux, of Philadelphia; F. W. Freeborn, of New York;
Howard Palmer, of Harvard, and Dr. Goddard, of Calif orni?.

With a few passing rain showers and one snow storm of some
hours' duration the weather was perfect and under no other condi-
tions could the exceptionally spectacular scenery have looked more
entrancing.

Assistance was given by the Dominion Government through
allowing the President and Mr. Bridgeland leave of absence from
their surveys to superintend the camp and mountaineering, by the
Alberta and British Columbia Governments, and by the Canadian
Pacific Railway Company, who again loaned us two old reliable Swiss
Guides, Edouard and Gottfried Feuz.

The Camp proved in every way the most successful and active
yet held, and by far the best work was done. It broke up on
August 9tli and was immediately followed by the six-day trip
around the Yoho Valley, of which a short description is given
further on.

REPORT ON MOUNTAINEERING.

The climbing was under an able staflF. M. P. Bridgeland was
in charge assisted by E. O. Wheeler. Many volunteer active mem-
bers did splendid service in assisting the graduating members to
qualify and in taking charge of expeditions. Among these may
be mentioned: Val. A. Fynn, J. P. Forde, D. N. McTavish, Rev. J.
Robertson, Rev. A. M. Gordon, and P. D. McTavish. Several of our
English guests good naturedly entered into the spirit of the Camp
and its objects and lent us their experience and skill at climbing
for the same purpose. Of these H. B. Dixon, Godfrey Solly, A. L.
Mumm and E. F. Pilkington were prominent.

218 Canadian Alpine Journal.

As professional guides we had our old standbys, Edouard and
Gottfried Feuz, loaned to us through the courtesy and friendship
of Mr. Hayter Reed, of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company. In
addition we hired froui tlie Company Ernest Feuz, brother to Ed-
ouard, who was now out for his first year in the Rockies. We had
also our own guide, brouglit out from Austria shortly before the
camp. Konrad Kain had had a large experience in the Dolomites,
in the Tyrol and generally through the Swiss, French and Italian Alps
as well as in Corsica and other places. Before the season was over
he proved himself to be a first class man and became a great
favorite. A. L. Mumm very kindly loaned his own guide, Moritz
Inderbinen, on a number of occasions. Moritz has been with him on
many expeditions in many parts of the world and particularly is
known in connection with Mr. Mumm's expedition with Dr. Long-
staff and Capt. Bruce in the Himalaya. He had now been brought
out to assist in an intended attack on Mt. Robson to be made later
by Mumm, Hastings and Amery. So it will be seen that the camp
was well supplied with guides both professonal and amateur. It
needed them, however, and could scarcely supply the demand for
strenuous work that was such a marked feature of the gathering.

It was originally intended to have Mts. Odaray (10,165 ft.)
and Huber (11,0-11 ft.) the oflScial graduating climbs, but on making
an investigation of routes up Mt. Odaray two chimneys were dis-
covered that would furnish serious difficulties for novices. It was,
therefore decided to make Huber the official climb. This did not
prevent a graduating climb being made on any other peak of suf-
ficient altitude and of the required character.

Towards the camp Huber presented a bold rock face much
broken by cliffs and far too steep to attempt an ascent. To reach
the summit it was necessary to traverse along the west face and
attack the mountain from the north and east. Here, the entire
character changed and snow and ice predominated. At one point in
the cliflts, at a lower altitude, it was considered advisable, though
not absolutely necessary, to place a rope, which helped much those
making their first climb.

Fifty-eight members graduated, as follows: —

MT. HUBER.
August 1st. August 3rd.

-c- f^ V 11 TirT-K A. C. Graham

K. Campbell, M.D. ^^^^ L. DeBeck

J. H. Boyce j^^iss l Hanafin

G. M. Smith Y. W. Godsal

Miss Ings

August 2nd. H. L. Pim

C. G. Arthur

Miss R. Paterson Miss E. G. Crawford

Miss D. Oldham ^- S. Darling

Miss M. Thomas i'?' ^^/^ ^

Miss R. Dow ^"^ ^^- ^^^^^^
F. M. Nicholson August 5th

E. N. Higinbotham Miss A. Baxter

A. R. Hargreaves Miss D. Chevrier

Rev. Chas. Peck Miss MacNab

Report of ipop Camp. 219

August 6th. Rev. J. G. McKeclmie

Miss J. A. Gibson ^iss E Sinclair

A. F. Armistead ^^^ E. Johns

Miss McClinton ^^- «• Howcroft

C. A. Lett, Jr. August 7th.

W. B. McKechme, M.D. ,,. „f. , ,, .^ ,^

A. L. Kendall, M.D. ^iss Elizabeth Moore
,, T^ J n H. A. Dowler

mS Carter Miss Beth Halstead

B. McClelland w^'a^aSJ^^?"^
G. C. Battel! W. A. Alldntt

J. B. McLaren ^iss Holditch

Mrs. McLaren August 9th

W. H. Gunn ^

Miss McLean Henry H. Lyman

Eric Ings Miss M. Mumford

Rev. A. McA. Dallas F. Greedy

220 Canadian Alpine Journal.

MT. STEPHEN

Miss M. N. McKenzie
C. H. Gillis
W. H. Harrison

MT. ODARAY

Mrs. Spence

Other Climbs

A number of important climbs were made of the surrounding
peaks while the camp was in session, viz: —

Second Ascent

MT. BroDLE (10,876 ft)

J. P. Forde, M. Goddard, J. J. Trorey, J. Watt
Guide: Gottfried Feuz

MT. ODARAY (10,165 ft.)

G, A. Solly, A. G. Priestly, A. R. Hargreaves, H. B. Dixon, Mrs. C. J.

Spence, C. Hastings, E. F. Pilkington, V. A. Flynn,

E. O. Wheeler.

HUNGABEE (11,447 ft.)
Second Ascent

V. A. Fvnn, E. 0. Wlieeler

VICTORIA (11,355 ft.). Via Huber route

J. P. Forde, M. Goddard, A. Gordon, Mrs. A. H. MacCarthy.

MT. RINGROSE (10,741 ft.)
First Ascent

V. A. Fynii, E. F. Pilkington

GLACIER PEAK
First Ascent
V. A. Fynn, A. R. Hart, L. C. Wilson, C. A. Richardson.
All the foregoing climbs are described elsewhere in the Journal.

MINOR CLIMBS

Mt. SchaflFer, Wiwaxy Peaks, South Peak of Mt. Odaray,
PlLTk Mt.

EXPEDITIONS

During the Paradise Valley Camp of 19U7, a two day trip was
organized by way of the Mitre Pass and Glacier, Lefroy Glacier,
Victoria Glacier, Abbot Pass; stopping the night at Lake O'Hara;
then via Opabin Glacier and Pass, Prospectors Valley, Wenkchemna
Pass and Glacier, Wastash or Sentinel Passes and Horseshoe
Glacier back to the camp — a roiind of nearly twenty miles of ardu-
OMS work, but always of live interest, and exhibiting most beauti-
ful and varied alpine scenery.

Report of ipop Camp. 221

The same trip was on the daily programme for the CHara
Camp, except that the half-way stop for the night was placed in
Paradise Valley. It was made in different directions, some parties
going via Abbot Pass and some via Opabin Pass. In all five parties
made the circuit comprising thirty-seven gentlemen and seventeen
ladies. In 1907 only three ladies attempted it.

MmOR EXPEDITIONS

There were a number of minor expeditions every day to Lake
McArthur, Lake Oeesa, Opabin Pass and the Crystal Caves, all of
which were well attended.

The Camp broke up on Monday 9th August. It was a record
camp as to attendance and the amount of good work done. There
were fully 150 people under canvas from the start to finish, while
the maximum was 190. The steady attendance throughout, which
was a new feature, made the camp a very lively one and kept the
fitaflf very fully employed.

THE SIX-DAY YOHO EXPEDITION.
A special expedition had been organized to enable our British
guests to see a little more of the alpine features of the region.
So, on August 9th, the party moved from Lake O'Hara to Hector
Camp and got ready for a start.

There were thirty-three altogether, ten of whom were guests and
the remainder officials, volunteers and guides. Of the guests
E. F. M. MacCarthy and A. M. Bartleet joined us at Hector. Prof.
Dixon and Mrs. Spence, Godfrey Solly, Mrs. Solly and Miss Maclay,
Miss M. Vaux, Oscar Rohde and E. F. Pilkington came from the
camp. Hastings, Mumm, and Amery had some days previously
started for Mt. Robson with the intention of attempting an ascent.
A move was made from Hector camp about 2.30 on the after-
non of the 9th, over a blazed track through the woods, to the
shores of Sherbrooke Lake. Now following the east shore around
the lake and ascending by the torrent from the upper hanging
valley, that valley was traversed and the first night's camp made
near timber line in the valley leading to the Niles Pass. Ponies
took the baggage and supplies thus far and then returned to meet
us two days later near the icefall of the Yoho Glacier.

For the next two days, all food, bedding and outfit had to be
carried on the backs of the Club's members who had volunteered
for the purpose. The second day's route lay over the Niles Pass,
the southern approach consisting of open grassy alps and rock
debris, the northern a descent of steep snow slopes, which were
negotiated by starting the heavier bundles and letting them go,
then following ourselves by a series of swift glissades. Next
ensued a tramp in single file acros.s the Daly Glacier and camp was
pitched for the second night just above the timber-line at the edge
of the most northerly icefall of the Daly Glacier.

The route for the third day lay along the western slopes of Mt.
Balfour and its outlaying spur, Troltinder. A descent was ulti-
mately made to the icefall of the Yoho Glacier, which was crossed
by all except a few of the party who preferred to wade the torrent,
and the third night spent in a delightful camp in the forest beside
the regular pony trail, about half a mile from the ioefall.

222 Canadian .llpinc Journal.

It had been pretty heavy work carrying supplies and outfit for
thirty-tliroe pt>rs<ins for two days and necessarily some discomfort
was experienced by our visitors, but they were excellent sports and
met all difficulties and mishaps with the most cheery good humour,
lending assistance at every point as the occasion arose, and even
carrying heavy loads, though quite unaccustomed to it. Indeed,
they helped us more than they knew. During these two days some
of our guests accompanied by members of the Club made ascents
of Mts. Daly and Balfour, both peaks of the Great Divide.

At the third camp, ponies met us and for the remaining three
days transport was an easy matter. The fourth niglit was spent at
a charming camping ground in Waterfall Valley, beside the little
lake near the trail. The fifth camp was in the Upper Yoho Valley
and was probably the most attractive of all. During the day the
move was made a number of members and a few of the visitors
crossed the Wapta Icefield and made the ascent of Mts. Habel and
McArthur, rejoining the camp in the Upper Yoho. The rest of
the party tramped to Kiwetinok Lake and Pass, and had a look at
the Van Home range across the Amiskivvi and Otterhead Valleys.

The fifth day, oamp was moved across the alps above the up-
per trail to Summit (Yoho) Lake, near the crest of the Yoho Pass.
About half the party reached this camping ground by a traverse
oi the President Range, crossing over the summits of the President
and Vice-President.

At Summit Lake the party was joined by Dr. and Mrs. Ben-
son, who had not accompanied the six-day expedition. One more
jolly and lingering camp-fire together, one more night under the
stars and then, on the sixth day, travelling easily, we crossed the
Yoho Pass, and moraine delta of Emerald Lake, follwing the shore
of the lake to the C.P.R. Chalet, where a civilized luncheon was
thoroughly enjoyed. A drive through woods of lodge -pole pine over
a good road landed us at Mt. Stephen House at the village of Field,
and the expedition was over — no, not quite over, for our guests had
plaimed a pleasant surprise and now become our hosts at a noble
banquet, to our great delight and satisfaction. A more pleasing
and kindly thought for a happy termination of a memorable ex-
pedition could not have been conceived.

The space at my disposal admits of but the merest sketch of
what was really something of a feat, most happily carried out,
thanks to the good temper, willingness for hard work and readiness
to be pleased with everything, by everyone concerned. We found
our guests right jolly good fellows, ladies included, and we could
not have asked for better mountaineers or sportsmen. They have
taught us much and we thank them most heartily for it.

In the pages of this number will be found a delightful sketch of
the expedition entitled "Two Englishmen in the Yoho Valley," by
MacCarthy and Bartleet, which does better justice in the way of a
description than the writer has been able to do. In the February
(1910) number of the Alpine Journal will also be found a capital
description by Harold B. Dixon. This number may be obtained from
Longmans Green and Co., 39 Paternoster Row, London, England;
price 2/6

ARTHUR O. ^\^IEELER
Chairman of Camp Committee.

C. n. Mitchell, Photo

THE CLUB HOUSE, BANFF

C. H. Mitchell, Photo

THE ASSEMBLY ROOM
and Vaux Fireplace

' Report of ipop Camp. 223

THE CLUB HOUSE

The Club House rises, a speck of colour, amid the pines of Sul-
phur Mountain, "Beautiful for situation." From the spacious front
verandah one looks across towards Tunnel Mountain; to the north
are the village of Banff and Cascade Mountain; the C.P.R. hotel
hides the falls of the Bow, but over it, through the gap, Peechee and
Inglismaldie stand bold against the sky, lovely in the after-glow
of the sunset; the barren slopes of Rundle and the valley of the
Spray fill the view to the South.

The main attraction of the interior of the house is the large
assembly room, thirty feet square, finished in dark brown and fur-
nished in mission style. In the centre of the western wall the great
stone fireplace, erected in memory of the late Wm. S. Vaux, a lover
of the mountains, gives distinction to the room. On the walls are
various pictures of mountaineering scenes. On the same floor are
the office and kitchen; from the hall a door opens into a large
dining tent where meals are served to all who come at appointed
times. Upstairs is a fine smoking room with sporting pictures
upon the walls and next to it, commanding from its windows a view-
stretching from Mt. Edith to the valley of the Spray, is the library

a truly delightful room. On this floor also are two small rooms.

Members sleep in little tent-houses scattered among the trees. From
the rocks behind the house rises a spring of pure, cold water.

Ninety-six members stayed in the Club House last summer,
and all hoped to come again. Thirty-four towns were represented
in Canada and the United States, in England, Scotland and Ireland,
and in far South Africa.

ART COMPETITION

The Judging Committee were Mrs. P. Burns, of Calgary,
Alberta, Mrs. Dixon, of Manchester, England, and Mrs. Benson, of
Dublin, Ireland.

In Class 1— Alpine Photographs — the first prize was awarded
to Miss M. and Mr. George S. Vaux.

In Class 2— Alpine Flowers— there was only one exhibit. Mrs.
Henshaw was awarded the prize for the high standard attained.

In Class 3— Alpine Scenes in oils— there were three entries. The
first prize was awarded to Mrs. Blair Thomas.

In Class 4 — Alpine scene in water colours — and in Class 5 —
Etching of Alpine scenes — there were no entries.

The Camp opened ofiieially on August 2nd and closed on
August 9th. The work of erection, in charge of E. O. Wheeler, son
of the President, was begun two weeks before the opening day.
During this time a special camp was in operation, open to receive
members, but the only members taking advantage of the opportunity
was Mr. Val. A. Fynn, of St. Louis, who turned to with a wiU and
did most efi'ective work in camp construction.

ATTENDANCE.

The attendance was greater than that of the previous year.
In all, on hundred and ninety persons were placed under canvas.
A special feature was the steady attendance from start to finish.

224 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Our experience in previous years had been that the attendance
fluctuated during tlu^ period, people coininj^ and going, but at Lake
O'Hara there were a hundred and fifty persons in camp from
beginning to end. A synopsis of the attendanoe by Provinces, States
and Countries is here given.

IN CANADA:

BRITISH COLUMBIA— Deer Park, Field, Golden, Kelowna,
Revelstoke, Rossland, Vancouver, Victoria. ALBERTA — Banff,
Calgary, Cowley, High River, Lethbridge, Medicine Hat, Millarville,
Ponoka, Red Deer. SASKATCHEWAN— Prince Albert, Regina,
Swift Current, Yellowgrass. MANITOBA— Winnipeg. ONTARIO—
Kingston, Ottawa, Port Hope, Toronto, Woodstock. QUEBEC—
Montreal.

FROM THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA:

CALIFORNIA— Berkeley. ILLINOIS— Galesburg. INDIANA
—Fairmont. MASSACHUSETTS— Boston. MISSOURI— St. Louis.
NEW JERSEY— Summit. NEW YORK— Brooklyn, New York.
PENNY SLVANIA— Philadelphia. S. DAKOTA— Sioux FaUs.

FROM OVER SEAS:

ENGLAND — Birkenhead, Birmingham, Bradford, Cheadle,
Haselmere, London, Manchester, Oxford, Prestwich, Teddington,
Y'ork. IRELAND— Black Rock, Dublin. SCOTLAND— Hamilton.
AUSTRIA— Vienna. HOLLAND— Rotterdam. SWITZERLAND—
Interlaken, Zermatt.

Statement of Treasurer. 225

STATEMENT OF TREASURER.

From July 1st, 1909 to May 31st, 1910.

Receipts.

Balance on hand July 1st, 1909 $1,840.21

Fees — Associate members $ 372.25

Active— Life 689.60 *

Active— Ordinary 1,270.76

Graduating 207.40

Subscribing 36.00

2,575.91

Club House Accommodation 715.47

Camp Account 2,082.32

Journals 236.75

Ribbon 26.62

Ice Axes 221.50

Librarv 1.85

Piano * 74.00

Interest 19.23

Club House— 0. Robde $ 15.00

Mrs. Solly 15.00

Mrs. Leigh 5.00

35.00

Total $7,828.86

Disbursements.

Camp Account $2,509.39

Ice Axes 285.80

Club House Building 295.26

Club House Camp & Supplies 906.72

Building Club House camp and teaming 526.18

Club House Furniture 530.65

Printing and Stationery 152.28

Journal 710.91

Postage and telegrams 50.75

Wages 1,160.25

Photos sold by Club 4.50

Insurance 196.00

Piano 74.00

Ribbon 28.66

Library 17.52

Grant 'to Rev. G. Kinney 100.00

Transfer C. E. Peck to Building Fund 10.00

Transfer to Building Fund (O. Rohde, $15; Mrs. Solly, $15;

Mrs. Leigh, $5.) 35.00

Balance in Bank 229.99

Cash 5.00

234.99

Total 7,828.86

C. W. ROWLEY, Hon. Treas.

226 Canadian Alpine Journal.

RECEIPTS AND EXFENDTTURES, O'lLARA CAMP

1909.

Receipts.

Alberta Goverriniout $1,000.00

British Columbia Governmeut 500.00

Board and Accommodation 1,691.50

Baggage, Hire of ponies 233.75

Sale Ice Axes and sundries 283.15

Sale. Auction -Iti-fiO

Employees Fund collected 215.40

Hiring guides 4.50

Sale of Provisions to Survey Party 55.57

Total 4,020.37

Expenditures.

Provisions 956.43

Wages 446.70

Outfit 821.44

Freight, etc 173.80

Ice Axes 235.80

Alpenstocks 12.00

Horses 694.75

Canadian Pacific Railway for guides 90.00

Bonus for employees 214.80

Printing -^5.00

Balance 339.65

Total 4,020.37

BANFF CLUB HOUSE BUILDING FUND.

Synopsis

Receipts.

Balance on hand July Ist, 1909 $ 471.03

Subscriptions 1,998.62

Vaux Family 175.00

Interest 9.13

Notes discounted 4,971.05

Total 7,624.83

Disbursements.

Sundry cheques to contractors $3,203.-50

Sundries ^-'^^

Payments on notes discounted 4,375.85

Balance in bank 9-13

Balance from General Fund — Mrs. Tx>igh 5.00

Mrs. Solly 15.00

O. Rohde 15.00

44.13

Total $7,624.83

C. W. ROWLEY, Hon. Treas.

Statement of Treasurer. 227

BUILDING FUND.

J. H. Alexander 20 00

A. F. Armistead 20 00

G. Arthur .-^

*Mrs. A. H. Benson ^^'^^

^^- j^°^^'' ; : ; 5o'.i5

J- ^] 5°y'^ : 20.00

T; <^-lJ^T'' •■•• 50.00

Mrs. P. Burns , ^^ ^^

R. B. Cochrane ^^^^

C. H. Copeland , ^\^

Miss W. J. Creech ^-JJ;

N. Gulp jQ-QQ

Miss E. I. Cummina ^^"^^^

A. M. Dallas ^'^^

*5- ^-^^^f""^ ■.'■•'.'•■■ so-oo

R. J. Deachman ^ „„

*Miss De Beck • • ^^^

t H. B. Dixon , Q Qjj

Miss Dow ^\^

W. A. Duff 2000

Miss F. M. Field ^""^

F W Freeborn ■; ^^;^

V- t J^r" "•••■•■ 50.00

F. W. Godsal ^^^

A. C. Graham ^^^

•W. H. Gunn ^-JJ

•Miss Hannafin 10 00

B. Harmon ^^'qq

t Mrs. Henshaw iq'qq

E. N. Higinbotham „• _

Miss C. M Holditch ••• 20.00

R. B. Hood 500

*G. Howcroft _ „„

*Mr8. G. Howcroft ^-^^JJ

J. C. Huffman •

E. Humphreys ••• .^s'.OO

W. G. Hunt 500

*E. Ings . 00

*Mi9S E. Johns ^JJJJ

^ '?• t J''""' '. '. • loo'.oo

A- L Kendall ^0.00

IVlrs. Leigh oo

Miss M. Lennox ^^-"^

•C. A. Lett, Jr J-'Z

C. F. Lindmark ^''-"^

C. O. Main f-J'^

Miss D. Maus } '•""

A. E. Miller i '-^^

fS. H. Mitchell f'""

Miss E. Moore ^^-"^

T. Morrison ••; ^O^O

*A. L. Mumm

228 Canadian Alpine Journal.

•Miss Maclav 15.00

•E. F. M. MacCarthv 24.33

Miss E. MacNab .'. 10.25

Miss M. N. MacKenzie 30.00

C. B. McClelland 20.00

Miss McClinton 10.00

W. B. McKeclmie 30.00

J. B. McLaren 30.00

Miss E. J. McLean 10.00

t P. D. McTavish 60.00

Miss Oldham 10.00

T •Mrs. E. Parker 10.00

H. Parker 50.00

t "Miss J. Parker 10.00

Miss B. L. Parlsow 10.00

*Mi89 R. Paterson 5.00

J. D. Patterson 100.25

C. W. Peck 10.00

E. F. Pilkington 20.00

♦H. L. Pirn 5.00

J. T. Pollock 10.00

•Miss Raymond 25.00

A. L. Reading 5.00

C. A. Richardson 7.60

•O. Rohde 15.00

•C. W. Rowley 25.00

•Mrs. J. N. Shaw 5.00

Miss J. Sherman 10.00

•Mrs. Sollv 15.00

•Mrs. Spence 5L04

E. L. T. Taylor 50.00

•Mrs. Thomas 5.00

•Miss Thomas 5.00

J. J. Trorey 10.00

John Watt 20.00

F. J. Webber 10.00

t "A. 0. Wheeler 50.00

Mrs. J. A. Wilson 20.00

L. C. Wilson 10.00

F. Yeigh 10.00

Total 1.998.62

t Debentures presented to Club.
•Gift to Club.

Subscriptions Unpaid and Partially Paid.

Dr. G. A. Anderson 50.00

C. H. Gillis (.3rd sub.) 50.00

E. A. Haggen 10-00

A. H. Hartevelt (2nd sub.) 25.00

J. C. Huffman (2nd sub.) 10.00

Dr. A. L. Kendall 20.00

Miss LeSueur 10-00

Dr. W. M. Mckechnie 20.00

R. E. Plewman (2nd sub) 20.00

Statement of Treasurer. 229

Gifts Towards Furnishing the Club House.

Mrs. P. Burns, 5 doz. each of knives, forks and spoons, double
Majestic Range, large mirror; Miss Mollison, several dozen plates
and dishes; Mrs. Rowley, 1 doz. sugar bowls and cream jugs, 1 pair
portieres, lamps, bed and mattress; C. W. Rowlej', pictures and
frames, flags and hammock; Winnipeg members, library table and
clock; sundry members, piano; Mrs. S. L. Jones, sofa pillow; Miss
Gillis, pillow; Misses Adams and Springate, 1 doz. cups, saucers
and plates; Mrs. Parker, 1 doz. plates and two brass trays; Miss
Parker, candlesticks, plates and dishes; Mrs. J. B. McLaren, curtain;
Mrs. Heushaw, 1 dozen cups and saucers; Miss E. Bailey,
sugar bowl and cream jug; Miss E. Sinclair, cups and saucers; Dr.
Mary Crawford, Ink bottles and stationery; R. E. Burch, inK
bottles; F. C. Brown, lamp and picture frames; ^. 0. Wheeler,
pictures; Tom Wilson, picture; Miss A. E. Patteson, two water
color pictures; H. G. Wheeler, two chairs and two tables; Mrs. H. J.
Palmer, pictures, vases, etc.

J. D. Patterson 4«.60

S. H. Mitchell 10.00

Miss A. L. Foote 5.00

J. N. Wallace 8.00

F. W. Freeborn 5.00

Mrs. Parker 4.00

Dr. M. Crawford 5.00

C. H. Gillis 5.00

Miss J. C. MacKav 2.00

Miss E. R. Smith 2.00

E. O. Wheeler 5.00

Miss A. E. Patterson 10.00

The money was used for furniture, dishes, teapots, waste
baskets, pillows, towels, etc. The balance in hand is to be used for
a kitchen porch this summer.

Memorials.

Fireplace in Assembly Room in memoriam William S. Vaux, Jr.,
by his family.

Grandfather's Clock in memoriam Hector G. Wheeler, by his
relatives.

C. W. ROWLEY, Hon. Treas.

MARTIN CURSCHELLAS

SCHUHMACHER

ANDERMATT, SWITZERLAND

INSTRUCTIONS POR MEASUREMENT

A
D
G

cm. B =
cm. E =
cm.

cm. C
cm. F

cm.
cm.

Name

Full Address

NOTES.— Write distinctly. Measure over mountain stockings
you intend to wear. Two pairs should be worn. Take measure-
ments when standing. Pull gently on tape when measuring.
Check your measurements. Give dimensions in Centimeters.
One inch = 2.54 Centimeters.

Centimeter measurement is frequently found on the reverse side
of tape measures.

G Canadian alpine jounjal

505

V. 2

PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY

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